CRittaler Posted February 21, 2022 Author Share Posted February 21, 2022 Thats the dual maxifuse holder The heavy yellow wire is the cab power after removing the ammeter shunt. The thinner yellow wire is my fuel pumps after removng fuse link S Cleaned up the wiring, made a short length to connect the busbar to the maxifuse holder. I also moved by ground connection from the fender to the negative bus bar and will be making another ground connection to go between the bus bar and the fender. I connected everything up and I have cab power, no smoke thankfully. Next up is to finish the alternator wiring and start the the headlight harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 Cleaned up the wiring, made a short length to connect the busbar to the maxifuse holder. I also moved by ground connection from the fender to the negative bus bar and will be making another ground connection to go between the bus bar and the fender. I connected everything up and I have cab power, no smoke thankfully. Next up is to finish the alternator wiring and start the the headlight harness. Looks excellent, Chris! Well done. Have you thought about covering it with plexiglass when you are done? Most of it is well protected, but there are some hot spots peeking out, and I worry that a a dropped wrench would find them. (Trust me, this is the pot calling the kettle black as there are some SERIOUS places like that on Big Blue.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted February 21, 2022 Author Share Posted February 21, 2022 Looks excellent, Chris! Well done. Have you thought about covering it with plexiglass when you are done? Most of it is well protected, but there are some hot spots peeking out, and I worry that a a dropped wrench would find them. (Trust me, this is the pot calling the kettle black as there are some SERIOUS places like that on Big Blue.) I think the only real hot spot it the bus bar. If I manage to short that to the plate the 200A fuse should pop. Both the ANL fuses have clear covers snapped on them to protect the bolts. It's hard to see them in the pictures. I have to order a smaller fuse to replace that 200A one. That just happens to be the smallest one I had on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 I think the only real hot spot it the bus bar. If I manage to short that to the plate the 200A fuse should pop. Both the ANL fuses have clear covers snapped on them to protect the bolts. It's hard to see them in the pictures. I have to order a smaller fuse to replace that 200A one. That just happens to be the smallest one I had on hand. You are right, the fuse should protect the bus bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted April 28, 2022 Author Share Posted April 28, 2022 I think the only real hot spot it the bus bar. If I manage to short that to the plate the 200A fuse should pop. Both the ANL fuses have clear covers snapped on them to protect the bolts. It's hard to see them in the pictures. I have to order a smaller fuse to replace that 200A one. That just happens to be the smallest one I had on hand. Finally carved out some time to work on the truck some more. I have done a bit here and there over the last while, but not enough to make a post about until now. I made up a new headlight harness and wired it into the fuse/relay box. I also made a new harness for the gauge power, electric choke, oil pressure and coolant temp sensors. Dark blue is coolant temp, yellow is electric choke and the light blue in the back is oil pressure I spent quite a while wiring everything up, but ended up with: I also replaced the glass firestarter fuel filter with a wix I spent some time in the cab and replaced the cluster lights, the headlight/wiper bulb and the floor lights with LEDs from Amazon. I went with ice blue for the illumination, and standard amber, red, green for the others. I was also able to start the truck for first time in a year or so and it fired right up. This allowed me to verify that the 3G alternator was charging (14.4V) and let me notice a power steering leak. It looks like the input to the steering box is weeping since I just replaced the pump last year and it's had maybe 4 hrs of run time while I was bleeding the air out. So, now I'm not sure if I want the expense of a blue top or to just get a reman. I also dug into the trailer brake wiring, I have a different thread discussing that, but I did find more botched wiring associated with it so now I have some 10awg in a few colors on the way and some different circuit breakers since I only have 30A on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 Finally carved out some time to work on the truck some more. I have done a bit here and there over the last while, but not enough to make a post about until now. I made up a new headlight harness and wired it into the fuse/relay box. I also made a new harness for the gauge power, electric choke, oil pressure and coolant temp sensors. Dark blue is coolant temp, yellow is electric choke and the light blue in the back is oil pressure I spent quite a while wiring everything up, but ended up with: I also replaced the glass firestarter fuel filter with a wix I spent some time in the cab and replaced the cluster lights, the headlight/wiper bulb and the floor lights with LEDs from Amazon. I went with ice blue for the illumination, and standard amber, red, green for the others. I was also able to start the truck for first time in a year or so and it fired right up. This allowed me to verify that the 3G alternator was charging (14.4V) and let me notice a power steering leak. It looks like the input to the steering box is weeping since I just replaced the pump last year and it's had maybe 4 hrs of run time while I was bleeding the air out. So, now I'm not sure if I want the expense of a blue top or to just get a reman. I also dug into the trailer brake wiring, I have a different thread discussing that, but I did find more botched wiring associated with it so now I have some 10awg in a few colors on the way and some different circuit breakers since I only have 30A on hand. Nice work! Very clean install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted April 28, 2022 Author Share Posted April 28, 2022 Nice work! Very clean install Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 Finally carved out some time to work on the truck some more. I have done a bit here and there over the last while, but not enough to make a post about until now. I made up a new headlight harness and wired it into the fuse/relay box. I also made a new harness for the gauge power, electric choke, oil pressure and coolant temp sensors. Dark blue is coolant temp, yellow is electric choke and the light blue in the back is oil pressure I spent quite a while wiring everything up, but ended up with: I also replaced the glass firestarter fuel filter with a wix I spent some time in the cab and replaced the cluster lights, the headlight/wiper bulb and the floor lights with LEDs from Amazon. I went with ice blue for the illumination, and standard amber, red, green for the others. I was also able to start the truck for first time in a year or so and it fired right up. This allowed me to verify that the 3G alternator was charging (14.4V) and let me notice a power steering leak. It looks like the input to the steering box is weeping since I just replaced the pump last year and it's had maybe 4 hrs of run time while I was bleeding the air out. So, now I'm not sure if I want the expense of a blue top or to just get a reman. I also dug into the trailer brake wiring, I have a different thread discussing that, but I did find more botched wiring associated with it so now I have some 10awg in a few colors on the way and some different circuit breakers since I only have 30A on hand. Well done! Neat installation. On the power steering box, you might find that after driving the truck some that the leak goes away. Perhaps movement of the shaft will help. But if not, I'd sure check out the Blue Top. It isn't a job I'd want to do very often, so I'd spend the extra money now rather than later. However, that's just my thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted April 29, 2022 Author Share Posted April 29, 2022 Well done! Neat installation. On the power steering box, you might find that after driving the truck some that the leak goes away. Perhaps movement of the shaft will help. But if not, I'd sure check out the Blue Top. It isn't a job I'd want to do very often, so I'd spend the extra money now rather than later. However, that's just my thinking. I'll give that a try and see if it deals up. It has been sitting for about a year. I'm waiting on more bits and pieces to arrive before I dig into more things. So far my 10awg wire has arrived for the trailer harness, but I'm waiting on the breaker and some other wiring to get here. I'm also going to replace all the fuel lines in the engine bay since they were quite stiff and swap the filter to a metal one and add a fuel pressure gauge. I have 50ft of 3/8" fuel line on the way as well so I can yank out the nylon stuff that is all hacked up and just run regular fuel line. I'll at least be able to do up to the selector valves before I have to figure out how to drop the tanks to get the rest. At which point I'll be able to replace the sending units so that the gauge works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 I'll give that a try and see if it deals up. It has been sitting for about a year. I'm waiting on more bits and pieces to arrive before I dig into more things. So far my 10awg wire has arrived for the trailer harness, but I'm waiting on the breaker and some other wiring to get here. I'm also going to replace all the fuel lines in the engine bay since they were quite stiff and swap the filter to a metal one and add a fuel pressure gauge. I have 50ft of 3/8" fuel line on the way as well so I can yank out the nylon stuff that is all hacked up and just run regular fuel line. I'll at least be able to do up to the selector valves before I have to figure out how to drop the tanks to get the rest. At which point I'll be able to replace the sending units so that the gauge works. Did some more work on the truck. Took some photos over the last couple days. Added the breakers for the trailer brakes. Ran 10awg red down under the truck. 10 awg black for power to the brake controller. Managed to disconnect the brake light switch and expose the crappy wiring job from the PO Those wires still need to be fixed, but I found some others that I ended up fixing instead. I was looking at the wiring harness from the duraspark module over to the engine and found the wires to the oil pressure switch were hacked up and the insulation on the wires to the distributor were cracked. I didn't have people wire so I had to do the repair with blue. I spent some time repairing the wires and rewraping the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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