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Installation Of A Pormido 998 Mirror/Camera System


Gary Lewis

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i must admit after watching the recent four wheeling videos, I'm struggling with the desire to pull my custom built bronco2 off the sales floor since it has not sold and get back out there.

(If there is any question about why I might clean this thread up and make it a locked how-to, this should answer the question. However, I'm the main/biggest contributor to the rabbit chasing, and it is fun. :nabble_smiley_wink:)

Yes, those videos are inspiring! But Janey and I certainly won't get into anything like what Bob has done. Nor will our son Bret and I. Still, they are good to watch to help understand what to do and what not to do.

So, do you have a camera system on your B-II?

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(If there is any question about why I might clean this thread up and make it a locked how-to, this should answer the question. However, I'm the main/biggest contributor to the rabbit chasing, and it is fun. :nabble_smiley_wink:)

Yes, those videos are inspiring! But Janey and I certainly won't get into anything like what Bob has done. Nor will our son Bret and I. Still, they are good to watch to help understand what to do and what not to do.

So, do you have a camera system on your B-II?

Got both cameras mounted and wired up today. Now all that is left is to connect the power supply in the radio compartment of the Highliner. :nabble_smiley_beam:

Pormido has two cable lengths for the mirror - 33' & 49'. I think even 33' is way too much. Here's what I had left over, so I'm going to suggest they also offer a shorter length cable:

Extra_Rear_Camera_Cable.thumb.jpg.b92787d8fe0a53537efca18e821d50ea.jpg

And here are the cameras.

Front_Camera_Mounted.thumb.jpg.d92028caebd42db1d6086e9c06c680e0.jpgRear_Camera_Mounted.thumb.jpg.7aa32f27d1c1a3a4cbe87ba7b60adb5c.jpg

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Got both cameras mounted and wired up today. Now all that is left is to connect the power supply in the radio compartment of the Highliner. :nabble_smiley_beam:

Pormido has two cable lengths for the mirror - 33' & 49'. I think even 33' is way too much. Here's what I had left over, so I'm going to suggest they also offer a shorter length cable:

And here are the cameras.

Looks good and I admire your persistence!

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Looks good and I admire your persistence!

Thanks!

I'm seeing the goal line. I think I'm in the "red zone". :nabble_smiley_super:

But, I forgot about the transparency, or lack thereof, of the box's cover. I have some plastic that I may try to graft onto the cover after I cut out a section

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Thanks!

I'm seeing the goal line. I think I'm in the "red zone". :nabble_smiley_super:

But, I forgot about the transparency, or lack thereof, of the box's cover. I have some plastic that I may try to graft onto the cover after I cut out a section

Well, the light I was seeing was from the end of the tunnel, but it turns out that the walls of the tunnel are wet and they are reflecting the light. So I have a bit farther to go than I thought.

We took Big Blue for a trip to Owasso and back today. And the first thing I discovered was that there's so much light coming into the cab that it is really hard to see things in the display - even with it turned up all the way. You have to concentrate to pick out the display from the image in the mirror - if that makes sense.

So I installed one of the anti-glare screens that Pormido sent and that allows me to see things in the display, but it makes things milky. And, there's no chance of using the display as a mirror as the film kills all reflections.

I've written Pormido to ask if they have suggestions, but meanwhile I'm having the windows tinted as that should cut down on the light. The guy says he uses nano-carbon film and has one that passes 25% if the light, which meets the OK law requirement, so I'm having that installed this weekend. Hopefully that will cut way down on the amount of light hitting the mirror - as well as the sun hitting Janey, who suffers from Sjogren's.

Also, the optical qualities of the cover for the front camera just aren't anywhere near good enough. I'd hoped that the spot where the camera's lens is would be good enough, but it isn't. So I'm going to have to cut out a section and glue on some plastic I have that does have good optical qualities.

But here's a couple of pics of the mirror installation:

Final_View_-_Mirror_Mounted_from_Drivers_Side.thumb.jpg.6cc3303ffde98133ccedac23fb646ace.jpg

Final_View_-_Mirror_Mounted_from_Right_Side.thumb.jpg.6f6b00f9470321a7f2566cfb9af5147b.jpg

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Well, the light I was seeing was from the end of the tunnel, but it turns out that the walls of the tunnel are wet and they are reflecting the light. So I have a bit farther to go than I thought.

We took Big Blue for a trip to Owasso and back today. And the first thing I discovered was that there's so much light coming into the cab that it is really hard to see things in the display - even with it turned up all the way. You have to concentrate to pick out the display from the image in the mirror - if that makes sense.

So I installed one of the anti-glare screens that Pormido sent and that allows me to see things in the display, but it makes things milky. And, there's no chance of using the display as a mirror as the film kills all reflections.

I've written Pormido to ask if they have suggestions, but meanwhile I'm having the windows tinted as that should cut down on the light. The guy says he uses nano-carbon film and has one that passes 25% if the light, which meets the OK law requirement, so I'm having that installed this weekend. Hopefully that will cut way down on the amount of light hitting the mirror - as well as the sun hitting Janey, who suffers from Sjogren's.

Also, the optical qualities of the cover for the front camera just aren't anywhere near good enough. I'd hoped that the spot where the camera's lens is would be good enough, but it isn't. So I'm going to have to cut out a section and glue on some plastic I have that does have good optical qualities.

But here's a couple of pics of the mirror installation:

I forgot to tell the tale about getting it all wired up and it not working. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Turned out that I was a bad 5A fuse. Bad right out of the box. Now I'm running a 10A fuse on the switched power and 5A on the always on power, both of which are way too large. But I just ordered a fuse set from Amazon with 2A, 3A, 5A, and right on up fuses, so I will be able to put the right fuses in on Saturday.

Also, I have a date for Friday to get the window tint installed.

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I forgot to tell the tale about getting it all wired up and it not working. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Turned out that I was a bad 5A fuse. Bad right out of the box. Now I'm running a 10A fuse on the switched power and 5A on the always on power, both of which are way too large. But I just ordered a fuse set from Amazon with 2A, 3A, 5A, and right on up fuses, so I will be able to put the right fuses in on Saturday.

Also, I have a date for Friday to get the window tint installed.

Man, I had the same thing happen with a fuse, can’t remember what is was for, it was automotive, oh my son’s BMW.

Interior lights I think, couldn’t figure out what was going on. Looked like it wasn’t blown. Finally put a multimeter on it.

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Man, I had the same thing happen with a fuse, can’t remember what is was for, it was automotive, oh my son’s BMW.

Interior lights I think, couldn’t figure out what was going on. Looked like it wasn’t blown. Finally put a multimeter on it.

Yes, that's the way this one was. Hold it to the light and it looks perfect. Put the meter on it and it is open.

Really strange, but the GMRS radio is on the same circuit and it worked, so it was either the new fuseholder or the fuse itself, and the fuse was the easiest to check.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch I had a long text conversation with the guy that is going to do the window tinting. He's local and his shop is not quite done but he can do the work in his garage.

He's going to use "carbon ceramic" tint, which is said to block 88% of IR and 99.9% of UV. But we are still debating the amount of "transmissibility" to use, meaning the amount of light that gets through. He's thinking 30% on the sides and 20% on the rear, but he's going to come by this evening to look the truck over and we'll discuss it.

This site shows the laws by state, although they don't really have a listing for pickups, just SUV's and MPV's. And here's what they say of nearby states, with the order in each case being front windows and then back glass:

  • Oklahoma: More than 25% and any darkness

  • Arkansas: more than 25% and more than 20%

  • Missouri: More than 35% and any darkness on back window

  • Kansas: More than 35% and more than 35%

  • Colorado: More than 27% and more than 27%

  • New Mexico: More than 20% and any darkness

  • Texas: More than 25% and any darkness

  • Arizona: More than 33% and any darkness

  • Utah: More than 43% and any darkness

I am assuming two things. First, that there is a reciprocity agreement such that if the tinting is legal in your home state you are ok in case you are stopped. And second, that it is really hard to tell the difference between 30% and 43%. So I'm thinking that his suggestion of 30% on the sides and 20% in the rear will be good.

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Yes, that's the way this one was. Hold it to the light and it looks perfect. Put the meter on it and it is open.

Really strange, but the GMRS radio is on the same circuit and it worked, so it was either the new fuseholder or the fuse itself, and the fuse was the easiest to check.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch I had a long text conversation with the guy that is going to do the window tinting. He's local and his shop is not quite done but he can do the work in his garage.

He's going to use "carbon ceramic" tint, which is said to block 88% of IR and 99.9% of UV. But we are still debating the amount of "transmissibility" to use, meaning the amount of light that gets through. He's thinking 30% on the sides and 20% on the rear, but he's going to come by this evening to look the truck over and we'll discuss it.

This site shows the laws by state, although they don't really have a listing for pickups, just SUV's and MPV's. And here's what they say of nearby states, with the order in each case being front windows and then back glass:

  • Oklahoma: More than 25% and any darkness

  • Arkansas: more than 25% and more than 20%

  • Missouri: More than 35% and any darkness on back window

  • Kansas: More than 35% and more than 35%

  • Colorado: More than 27% and more than 27%

  • New Mexico: More than 20% and any darkness

  • Texas: More than 25% and any darkness

  • Arizona: More than 33% and any darkness

  • Utah: More than 43% and any darkness

I am assuming two things. First, that there is a reciprocity agreement such that if the tinting is legal in your home state you are ok in case you are stopped. And second, that it is really hard to tell the difference between 30% and 43%. So I'm thinking that his suggestion of 30% on the sides and 20% in the rear will be good.

Have you thought about getting a piece of glass cut the size of you front camera box and just using silicone to hold to box. Sure it would be possible to break it. but would be fairly easy to replace if you have several cut at once.

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Have you thought about getting a piece of glass cut the size of you front camera box and just using silicone to hold to box. Sure it would be possible to break it. but would be fairly easy to replace if you have several cut at once.

Good idea for clarity Bruce.

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