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1985 Ford F150 4.9L 6cyl plow truck not idling/won’t stay running


DarkSaga

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Here are some old pictures of when I took apart the original Carter YFA carb... just wanted to post them so you all could see the condition it was in at the time and if you notice anything out of the ordinary or incorrect. Obviously it's quite dirty, but I cleaned it up as best I could before reassembling it with some newer parts from the rebuild kit.

*If too many images bogs down the page or is frowned upon just let me know and I won't post so many. Thanks!

On a side note I just wanted to mention that I had seen this video in the past where these guys turn the inline 6 into a beast with huge power. I don't need a supercharged plow truck but I was wondering if I should just get rid of the Carter YFA and the current distributor system and just add some parts similar to what they did in the video. I don't mind putting money into the truck as long as it will start up every time and work great for my plowing needs. -->

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On a side note I just wanted to mention that I had seen this video in the past where these guys turn the inline 6 into a beast with huge power. I don't need a supercharged plow truck but I was wondering if I should just get rid of the Carter YFA and the current distributor system and just add some parts similar to what they did in the video. I don't mind putting money into the truck as long as it will start up every time and work great for my plowing needs. -->

I don't think you want to go doing that with your 300. They are a very reliable engine and are/have been used in all sorts of industrial things due to that. So unless you need the power I'd stay with the standard setup.

Note that I'm not saying you have to keep all the emissions stuff. But that the YFA carb and DS-II or TFI ignition are quite capable of giving you both power and reliability.

On the carb pics, they don't seem to be of such a large size that they'll cause a problem. But I wouldn't put that many pics that are each close to the 1Mb limit on as it could cause problems for people using cellular data or low-speed internet feeds.

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I don't think you want to go doing that with your 300. They are a very reliable engine and are/have been used in all sorts of industrial things due to that. So unless you need the power I'd stay with the standard setup.

Note that I'm not saying you have to keep all the emissions stuff. But that the YFA carb and DS-II or TFI ignition are quite capable of giving you both power and reliability.

On the carb pics, they don't seem to be of such a large size that they'll cause a problem. But I wouldn't put that many pics that are each close to the 1Mb limit on as it could cause problems for people using cellular data or low-speed internet feeds.

Sorry about the amount of large pics that I posted Gary. Next time I'll just post small ones (and if you guys need to see more detail in any I can always enlarge them later on).

As for modifying the truck, I'm just getting fed up with it not running and am looking for a solution. I took it to a reputable local truck mechanic and he couldn't even get it running (though I know he didn't spend that much time on it because he has a fleet of other trucks he's always working on that bring in the buck$ for his business). Because it's older and has a carburetor maybe this mechanic wasn't the right guy to take it to, but usually this type of set up should be easy to fix for a seasoned mechanic.

Anyway at this point my options seem to be: 1) Get expert advice from the forum and fix it myself, 2) Be lucky enough to have a forum member come look at it (and pay them $ to fix it or help me fix it), 3) Modify the engine [$$ more costly] or 4) put a new fuel injected engine in it [VERY $$$ costly].

Certainly #1 above will be the cheapest and bring the most satisfaction if I get the truck working right... but I could end up going in circles and just get frustrated with it. I'll start with trying to fix it myself, but I'm really going to need some help from you guys in the forum.

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Your compression readings are pretty low (did you hold the throttle wide open while taking the readings?) but it should run well enough to plow snow.

These engines are known to have the harmonic balancer slip, causing the timing marks to be way off.

I would unhook the exhaust at whatever is the easiest place (maybe right at the manifold) and see if it will run longer than 45 seconds. Yes, it will be loud!

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Sorry about the amount of large pics that I posted Gary. Next time I'll just post small ones (and if you guys need to see more detail in any I can always enlarge them later on).

As for modifying the truck, I'm just getting fed up with it not running and am looking for a solution. I took it to a reputable local truck mechanic and he couldn't even get it running (though I know he didn't spend that much time on it because he has a fleet of other trucks he's always working on that bring in the buck$ for his business). Because it's older and has a carburetor maybe this mechanic wasn't the right guy to take it to, but usually this type of set up should be easy to fix for a seasoned mechanic.

Anyway at this point my options seem to be: 1) Get expert advice from the forum and fix it myself, 2) Be lucky enough to have a forum member come look at it (and pay them $ to fix it or help me fix it), 3) Modify the engine [$$ more costly] or 4) put a new fuel injected engine in it [VERY $$$ costly].

Certainly #1 above will be the cheapest and bring the most satisfaction if I get the truck working right... but I could end up going in circles and just get frustrated with it. I'll start with trying to fix it myself, but I'm really going to need some help from you guys in the forum.

Go junkyard prowling and find a nice 1978 or earlier F150/250 with a 300 six, get the distributor, DS-II box and as much of the wiring as you can and the nice simple YFA carb with minimal emission stuff on it. You can get the DS-II wiring from the bigger engine F series trucks up through 1987, up through 1986 the left side front wiring is set up for EFI. feedback carb or none depending on the engine as long as it is a gas engine.

Once you have these in hand, you can get rid of all the computer crap (hint, sell it to someone who needs it). On your carb, you can see where the throttle body to float bowl gasket had started to come apart.

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Go junkyard prowling and find a nice 1978 or earlier F150/250 with a 300 six, get the distributor, DS-II box and as much of the wiring as you can and the nice simple YFA carb with minimal emission stuff on it. You can get the DS-II wiring from the bigger engine F series trucks up through 1987, up through 1986 the left side front wiring is set up for EFI. feedback carb or none depending on the engine as long as it is a gas engine.

Once you have these in hand, you can get rid of all the computer crap (hint, sell it to someone who needs it). On your carb, you can see where the throttle body to float bowl gasket had started to come apart.

i think i missed where the compression was measured. when you get the truck back and get into it we can see what tests you do and maybe help from there

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i think i missed where the compression was measured. when you get the truck back and get into it we can see what tests you do and maybe help from there

Hey guys,

I'm certain now that I did the compression test incorrectly back then (it was the 1st time I ever tried a compression test and my methods were wrong), so don't go by the compression numbers I posted. I did a number of things incorrectly with that test, so just disregard that info. I'm still learning...

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Hey guys,

I'm certain now that I did the compression test incorrectly back then (it was the 1st time I ever tried a compression test and my methods were wrong), so don't go by the compression numbers I posted. I did a number of things incorrectly with that test, so just disregard that info. I'm still learning...

not to mention a lot of "hobbiest" quality compression gauges are very inaccurate. they rarely read high. they are an excellent example of you get what you pay for

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not to mention a lot of "hobbiest" quality compression gauges are very inaccurate. they rarely read high. they are an excellent example of you get what you pay for

I finally got my wounded F-150 back from the mechanic. I didn't get a chance to look over it super closely yet, but I can see they disconnected and failed to reattach some stuff and broke a thing or two. That's annoying, but at least it's back and I can start to work on it again soon (weather permitting).

Hopefully you all can help me troubleshoot things so the source of the issues can be determined and corrected. Thanks in advance!

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I finally got my wounded F-150 back from the mechanic. I didn't get a chance to look over it super closely yet, but I can see they disconnected and failed to reattach some stuff and broke a thing or two. That's annoying, but at least it's back and I can start to work on it again soon (weather permitting).

Hopefully you all can help me troubleshoot things so the source of the issues can be determined and corrected. Thanks in advance!

Glad you got it back. We stand ready to help. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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