"Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

[grumpin]

My 86 that came from Dane's neck of the woods had Happijac CA-FD8's on it that I sold to a guy in Alaska. The front plates bolted to the front face of the bed where the panels overlap and the rear 'bolts' just went through the outer bed shell. I was surprised that the holes from the rear ones weren't enlarged or tore but looked like they've never slipped or anything.

Never had a camper on it myself so that's the only experience I have

I put Happijacs on my 94 F250. I also installed the recommended bar between the the plates for 4x4 trucks.

The rears I put in the bumper, I didn’t like the idea of putting them in the bed wall.

Never had any problems, I liked them. Had a big Western Wilderness on there.

If I was to use a truck camper again I would go with Stable Lift.

https://www.stablelift.com/

[taskswap]

I put Happijacs on my 94 F250. I also installed the recommended bar between the the plates for 4x4 trucks.

The rears I put in the bumper, I didn’t like the idea of putting them in the bed wall.

Never had any problems, I liked them. Had a big Western Wilderness on there.

If I was to use a truck camper again I would go with Stable Lift.

https://www.stablelift.com/

I really like the look of the Stable-Lift but it's too heavy - it adds like 400lbs to the camper. I do have an F-250, but I also have mountains to climb and I'm trying not to overload it. My camper is actually SUPER light compared to modern units - 1559lbs. I'm trying to take advantage of that.

Happi-jac's are great too, but I'm looking forward to this Torklift setup. I like that the outer bars are removeable when not needed. The only problem I'm having is the front driver's side bracket interferes with the parking brake cable. Need to figure that out...

This camper will be a fun restoration in its own right. There's some structural damage (the way it was tied down was stressing the upper frame and crushing its corners) but otherwise it's in pretty decent condition. While I have the siding off the fix the structure, I'm going to make a few mods, particularly removing the collapse mechanism and hard-siding it. I don't need a collapsible camper - it only lowers the height by a foot anyway, and the places I go are narrow but not "low'.

I may even shave off a few pounds doing this - canvas is heavy and so is the crank/lifting mechanism and hardware like the tie-downs that hold it closed for storage.

Gary, what's the policy on off-topic threads here? I'm going to blog about it somewhere and it's somewhat truck related I guess. Otherwise I guess I can link to a thread somewhere else in my sig...

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, what's the policy on off-topic threads here? I'm going to blog about it somewhere and it's somewhat truck related I guess. Otherwise I guess I can link to a thread somewhere else in my sig...

We have no policy on off-topic threads. If you look I have a thread on wiring my boat. Bill has his Lebaron T2. etc. Basically, we are a community that came together due to Bullnose trucks, but we have other interests as well. So we tolerate off-topic threads easily.

I'm guessing you are talking about it and I say go for it. I'd like to see what you do.

 

[grumpin]

I really like the look of the Stable-Lift but it's too heavy - it adds like 400lbs to the camper. I do have an F-250, but I also have mountains to climb and I'm trying not to overload it. My camper is actually SUPER light compared to modern units - 1559lbs. I'm trying to take advantage of that.

Happi-jac's are great too, but I'm looking forward to this Torklift setup. I like that the outer bars are removeable when not needed. The only problem I'm having is the front driver's side bracket interferes with the parking brake cable. Need to figure that out...

This camper will be a fun restoration in its own right. There's some structural damage (the way it was tied down was stressing the upper frame and crushing its corners) but otherwise it's in pretty decent condition. While I have the siding off the fix the structure, I'm going to make a few mods, particularly removing the collapse mechanism and hard-siding it. I don't need a collapsible camper - it only lowers the height by a foot anyway, and the places I go are narrow but not "low'.

I may even shave off a few pounds doing this - canvas is heavy and so is the crank/lifting mechanism and hardware like the tie-downs that hold it closed for storage.

Gary, what's the policy on off-topic threads here? I'm going to blog about it somewhere and it's somewhat truck related I guess. Otherwise I guess I can link to a thread somewhere else in my sig...

I would like to see what you do on the camper as well.

The truck campers and travel trailers I had were in need of repair most of the time.

I should state that if I put a camper on my truck now, I would definitely use the Tork Lifts I already have.

I do like the Stable Lift but see your point on the weight. I was always removing things my wife and kids wanted to take camping, only necessities.

I’ll get under my truck in a bit and see what’s going on with the parking brake.

[grumpin]

I would like to see what you do on the camper as well.

The truck campers and travel trailers I had were in need of repair most of the time.

I should state that if I put a camper on my truck now, I would definitely use the Tork Lifts I already have.

I do like the Stable Lift but see your point on the weight. I was always removing things my wife and kids wanted to take camping, only necessities.

I’ll get under my truck in a bit and see what’s going on with the parking brake.

Here are two pictures of the installation by the parking brake cable. Hope these help.

[grumpin]

Here are two pictures of the installation by the parking brake cable. Hope these help.

I went to the Torklift website, nothing like what I have. Maybe a different company made them. But I don’t know of any others.

I assumed these were early Torklifts, and may be, but I’m not sure now.

https://www.torklift.com/findyourfit-results?vid=90&rboards=no&hitch=r_standard&chosen_year=1986&chosen_make=1&chosen_model=2#front

[taskswap]

I went to the Torklift website, nothing like what I have. Maybe a different company made them. But I don’t know of any others.

I assumed these were early Torklifts, and may be, but I’m not sure now.

https://www.torklift.com/findyourfit-results?vid=90&rboards=no&hitch=r_standard&chosen_year=1986&chosen_make=1&chosen_model=2#front

Huh. Yeah mine don't look anything like that. The set Torklift and direct vendors like eTrailer recommend for my '81 F250 is the F2000.

It bolts directly to the frame rail with one bolt going over the top of the rail in the top corner of the bracket and two more bolts into the side of the rail through holes you have to drill.

On the passenger side this is fine. On the driver's side the parking brake cable is there. There's a notch in the bracket that's clearly designed (and referenced by the instructions) to allow the cable to pass through it without interference. In theory no problem. But I ALSO have a set of Westin step bars installed and those come back far enough so that the Torklift bracket doesn't fit well.

The reason this is a problem is because the bracket needs to sit far enough forward that only the cable from the parking break goes through the slot it has for that. The slot isn't big enough for the adjuster bolts and other "stuff". This is a problem because the bracket is also tall enough to stick below the frame rail a bit, and the step bar attaches flush under there.

But its only by about a half-inch. All of the bolts from the Torklift bracket into/over the frame rail are above the weldment that holds the arm on. I'm confident the lower left corner of the bracket isn't really structural - it might add a bit of rigidity but it's not load bearing. I believe I can grind off just enough clearance where the bracket sits over the step bar to make this all work. As a plan B I could add a bushing to the step bar's mount to lower it the same amount, but then it wouldn't be level and I don't love the idea...

[grumpin]

Huh. Yeah mine don't look anything like that. The set Torklift and direct vendors like eTrailer recommend for my '81 F250 is the F2000.

It bolts directly to the frame rail with one bolt going over the top of the rail in the top corner of the bracket and two more bolts into the side of the rail through holes you have to drill.

On the passenger side this is fine. On the driver's side the parking brake cable is there. There's a notch in the bracket that's clearly designed (and referenced by the instructions) to allow the cable to pass through it without interference. In theory no problem. But I ALSO have a set of Westin step bars installed and those come back far enough so that the Torklift bracket doesn't fit well.

The reason this is a problem is because the bracket needs to sit far enough forward that only the cable from the parking break goes through the slot it has for that. The slot isn't big enough for the adjuster bolts and other "stuff". This is a problem because the bracket is also tall enough to stick below the frame rail a bit, and the step bar attaches flush under there.

But its only by about a half-inch. All of the bolts from the Torklift bracket into/over the frame rail are above the weldment that holds the arm on. I'm confident the lower left corner of the bracket isn't really structural - it might add a bit of rigidity but it's not load bearing. I believe I can grind off just enough clearance where the bracket sits over the step bar to make this all work. As a plan B I could add a bushing to the step bar's mount to lower it the same amount, but then it wouldn't be level and I don't love the idea...

When I went to the Torklift website and put in the info for my truck it asked if it had running boards that go under the truck.

I went to the website after I posted the pictures because there was no way to interfere with the cables with my installation.

[taskswap]

When I went to the Torklift website and put in the info for my truck it asked if it had running boards that go under the truck.

I went to the website after I posted the pictures because there was no way to interfere with the cables with my installation.

I mean... I didn't have running boards when I got the kit!

I'll post pics of whatever I work out. But it'll be a few days. I picked up that bracket to take that pic above today and just about froze my hand off. I think it was -2F at the time...

[taskswap]

I mean... I didn't have running boards when I got the kit!

I'll post pics of whatever I work out. But it'll be a few days. I picked up that bracket to take that pic above today and just about froze my hand off. I think it was -2F at the time...

Tiny updates just to keep the thread alive. We've had VERY cold weather here which blocks most of what I want to do... but creates an opportunity. Yesterday I figured I'd give a go of getting the truck started in the cold, to make sure I could.

I would call the first start "difficult" if it weren't for the fact that it was always going to be. It started about the way I expected. Pump it, crank it, work it, be patient. Try again. Probably took 30 seconds but I did get it to start. I let it rev for about 30 seconds with my foot on the clutch, then put it in neutral and let the clutch off and it died. I'm guessing the transmission oil was so stiff (it's new, but still 80W-90) it was just a bit too much load for the engine still being cold.

At that point I could not get it restarted. Click, thunk, click, thunk. Dead battery. No surprise, it's an old battery. The guy I bought it from got the truck at an auction and it didn't have a battery in it, so he put one in. I'm guessing he put in "whatever he had lying around" (his worst one). I'll be getting a new one, but in the meantime I threw the charger on it this morning so I can have another go of starting it today just for the exercise. This time I'll let it fully warm up before letting the clutch out (or maybe just give it a bit of gas).