Gary Lewis Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 Some paint progress. Overall I'm happy with this as a learning experience. I'm getting a fairly good surface where I'm putting in the effort. This is now at clear-coat 1 so the surface finish will improve as I get the final coats on and leveled/polished. The only big goof was an area where I didn't let the color coat flash off enough (it was shaded by a tree branch of all things) and got a lot of wrinkling in the color layer. I'm not going to bother fixing it totally, just sand it level with the rest learn from it and move on. It's been an interesting experience. Honestly the single hardest thing was just working outside. The conditions are SO variable with the temp of the metal (I have an infrared thermometer) varying from 50 (I don't paint below that) to almost 100 even on a cold day, because of the sun. And the slightest breeze makes it super hard to get an even coat on anything - and this is Colorado, there's ALWAYS at least a slight breeze. If I had a garage to work on this in I bet I could get much better results on a future project. (Speaking of weather, it was 67F yesterday, it's 52F today and it's going to snow starting tonight! It'll probably be another 3-4 days before I can paint again.) For the light bulb sockets I'm referring to the reverse/back-up lamp. My left side isn't great but is probably salvageable. My right side is a hot mess, it looks like it was filled with tree resin, somebody rattled a screwdriver around to clean it out (and bend all the connections), then it was refilled. Must be some kind of story here but I really just want to replace the socket: I didn't have any luck sourcing the exact part number here - I assume it was sold as a whole harness. And I didn't like the look of the Dorman option. But as luck would have it I just found this listing on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133895268666 It looks like the exact thing I need and the price was right so I went ahead and ordered two. We'll see how they work out. Looking good! But I didn't realize how much difference the temp makes, nor how much temp difference there is. Wow! Glad you found the socket you need. I think I've used Dorman sockets in the past. As for the temp, it is 72 now but tomorrow's low is 13. Tonight's low is basically tomorrow's high and then the next front hits. It has been a crazy year and I can't see how you can get anything done outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 Looking good! But I didn't realize how much difference the temp makes, nor how much temp difference there is. Wow! Glad you found the socket you need. I think I've used Dorman sockets in the past. As for the temp, it is 72 now but tomorrow's low is 13. Tonight's low is basically tomorrow's high and then the next front hits. It has been a crazy year and I can't see how you can get anything done outside. I survive by running a lot of projects in parallel. Whenever it's warm I'm spraying, when it's not I'm wiring or wrenching. That also lets me keep moving on a lot of fronts without getting stuck waiting on parts for one task. Currently in progress: - Paint: 2 coats primer 3 coats color 1 coat clear done on right side and hood. Need to run two more coats of clear then do the left and bed. - Winch: I started on this yesterday by notching the winch tray I bought to fit between the bed rails (it was already super close, I only needed to take 1/2" off the rear rail of the tray in two spots). I have it up on jacks stands in about the area where I want to mount it. I have some 3x8 angle that looks like it will be perfect for some side brackets to the frame rails, then I plan to run some angle iron at 30-degree angles back to additional points on the frame rails to better distribute pulling loads along the frame. So far my plan to retain the original chrome front bumper will work out. I'll need to offset it about 2"" forward which I will do with some steel bushings. So far this is just a dry fit, but a promising one. - Wiring: Trailer plug and license plate camera are installed and wire is run, but not hooked up under the hood. I may do that tomorrow. - Fuel: Rear tank straps removed, discovered hitch is blocking me from dropping it and further, hitch is tack welded in and tank is still half full. Changed my mind about what I want to do here. I'm going to bring it to a shop and have them take it out. I think it'll be much safer to do on a lift. Then I'll install the new tank myself. - Interior: Need to install my GMRS radio. I'm stalling for reasons I can't explain. - Engine compartment: Need to refine a few wiring bits like my headlamp relay harness, the one I bought was a wee bit too short so I want to adjust how I have it laid out. And I bought a generic under-hood LED lighting kit in a huff after losing two bids on NOS lamps on eBay. I may or may not install it. - Suspension: Done but definitely needs an alignment. I think I'll try a shop for this. I figure they may not do it quite right but they're unlikely to do it "wronger" than me so I'll give it a go the first time. - Climate: Heat works great although the mixer push-pull is super stiff. I'm sure it;'s binding somewhere but don't care enough to find out. I've decided to have the A/C drained, it was R-12 and my plan is to have the same shop that yanks my gas tank drain the A/C as well, it's a service they "do." I'll leave it empty while I decide if I care, then when I decide I do (which is inevitable), I'll convert it to R-134A. That's an easy conversion and I have the manifold, vacuum, and other stuff to charge that properly. - High idle: I've decided not to mess with the carb. I've read all the posts here and watched countless videos and then I found a shop in Denver that specializes in older vehicles and does dyno tuning and carb work. I wanted to get it dyno'd anyway just out of curiosity (my engine's had some "tuning work" done on it) so I figure I'll just have them give it a go. - Oil leak: I have a very slow but noticeable oil leak I can't quite pinpoint. The drips are directly below where the clutch cable enters the clutch housing but I don't think that's the source. The truck is parked on a hill. Following leads a little it looks like it might be the rear corner of the driver's side valve cover and it's just dripping down and traveling where gravity takes it. I'm going to pressure wash the general trail to clean it up and confirm the source. (Obviously I'd love to have it be the valve cover itself since that's such an easy thing to fix. My fear is something like a rear main seal which is way beyond my current skills and garage capacity.) - Install Torklift camper tie downs. I'm sure I'll sing a different song once these are on but tbh I'm not thrilled with the installation method. I feel like they could have done a much better job both fitting it to the vehicle in general and documenting the install. - Install the spare tire mount: I know the under-bed mount is much maligned because it's such a pain but when you're planning on hauling a truck camper around it's really the best option. You may remember I scored all original parts on this: the support, mounting brackets, and even the special bolts. But there's no sense putting it on until I deal with the gas tank so it's on hold until then. - Final trim and so forth: I have bed rail caps, chrome wheel well trim, bed mats, and emblems all pending paint work. It just started snowing and they're saying it could last til Thursday so there's no telling when this stuff will happen. Some day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 I survive by running a lot of projects in parallel. Whenever it's warm I'm spraying, when it's not I'm wiring or wrenching. That also lets me keep moving on a lot of fronts without getting stuck waiting on parts for one task. Currently in progress: - Paint: 2 coats primer 3 coats color 1 coat clear done on right side and hood. Need to run two more coats of clear then do the left and bed. - Winch: I started on this yesterday by notching the winch tray I bought to fit between the bed rails (it was already super close, I only needed to take 1/2" off the rear rail of the tray in two spots). I have it up on jacks stands in about the area where I want to mount it. I have some 3x8 angle that looks like it will be perfect for some side brackets to the frame rails, then I plan to run some angle iron at 30-degree angles back to additional points on the frame rails to better distribute pulling loads along the frame. So far my plan to retain the original chrome front bumper will work out. I'll need to offset it about 2"" forward which I will do with some steel bushings. So far this is just a dry fit, but a promising one. - Wiring: Trailer plug and license plate camera are installed and wire is run, but not hooked up under the hood. I may do that tomorrow. - Fuel: Rear tank straps removed, discovered hitch is blocking me from dropping it and further, hitch is tack welded in and tank is still half full. Changed my mind about what I want to do here. I'm going to bring it to a shop and have them take it out. I think it'll be much safer to do on a lift. Then I'll install the new tank myself. - Interior: Need to install my GMRS radio. I'm stalling for reasons I can't explain. - Engine compartment: Need to refine a few wiring bits like my headlamp relay harness, the one I bought was a wee bit too short so I want to adjust how I have it laid out. And I bought a generic under-hood LED lighting kit in a huff after losing two bids on NOS lamps on eBay. I may or may not install it. - Suspension: Done but definitely needs an alignment. I think I'll try a shop for this. I figure they may not do it quite right but they're unlikely to do it "wronger" than me so I'll give it a go the first time. - Climate: Heat works great although the mixer push-pull is super stiff. I'm sure it;'s binding somewhere but don't care enough to find out. I've decided to have the A/C drained, it was R-12 and my plan is to have the same shop that yanks my gas tank drain the A/C as well, it's a service they "do." I'll leave it empty while I decide if I care, then when I decide I do (which is inevitable), I'll convert it to R-134A. That's an easy conversion and I have the manifold, vacuum, and other stuff to charge that properly. - High idle: I've decided not to mess with the carb. I've read all the posts here and watched countless videos and then I found a shop in Denver that specializes in older vehicles and does dyno tuning and carb work. I wanted to get it dyno'd anyway just out of curiosity (my engine's had some "tuning work" done on it) so I figure I'll just have them give it a go. - Oil leak: I have a very slow but noticeable oil leak I can't quite pinpoint. The drips are directly below where the clutch cable enters the clutch housing but I don't think that's the source. The truck is parked on a hill. Following leads a little it looks like it might be the rear corner of the driver's side valve cover and it's just dripping down and traveling where gravity takes it. I'm going to pressure wash the general trail to clean it up and confirm the source. (Obviously I'd love to have it be the valve cover itself since that's such an easy thing to fix. My fear is something like a rear main seal which is way beyond my current skills and garage capacity.) - Install Torklift camper tie downs. I'm sure I'll sing a different song once these are on but tbh I'm not thrilled with the installation method. I feel like they could have done a much better job both fitting it to the vehicle in general and documenting the install. - Install the spare tire mount: I know the under-bed mount is much maligned because it's such a pain but when you're planning on hauling a truck camper around it's really the best option. You may remember I scored all original parts on this: the support, mounting brackets, and even the special bolts. But there's no sense putting it on until I deal with the gas tank so it's on hold until then. - Final trim and so forth: I have bed rail caps, chrome wheel well trim, bed mats, and emblems all pending paint work. It just started snowing and they're saying it could last til Thursday so there's no telling when this stuff will happen. Some day. I understand parallel projects. But I tend to focus on a single project until it is done. Tell me more about your license tag camera? What does it feed? And what GMRS radio? I have the Midland MXT115 and a pair of their 15 Watt MicroMobile walkie talkies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Good job! Tough conditions to paint in. That bulb you ordered looks a little better than the one in your truck! I'm curious to see how many rattle cans you will go through by the time you are done. the truck is looking good, however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 I'm curious to see how many rattle cans you will go through by the time you are done. the truck is looking good, however. I bought 12 cans of primer, 18 cans of color and 12 cans of clear coat. Sounds like it would be expensive but I think I'm still under $250 on all of it because I waited and watched for some deals at Walmart especially for the primer. (Interesting side note my local Walmart is emptying their shelves of paint. I didn't ask why but they're almost bare now. I bought the last of what I had then ordered online.) That doesn't count filler, sandpaper, blocks, rags, masks, tape, paper, and other supplies but I budgeted about $300 for everything and I think I'm on track. (I'm not counting underbody and other specialty coatings like when I painted the inside of the cab.) I think I'm more or less on track. This was never going to be a showroom finish but as a learning experience it's been worthwhile. At least all the rust is/will be sanded/treated/covered. Tell me more about your license tag camera? What does it feed? I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08S6RV311 In other vehicles I've gone whole-hog on smart setups like you did with the Pomodoro (sp?). (Speaking of which we need an update on that!) But this vehicle's #1 purpose is a hunt/camp rig where the only time I'm in reverse is getting into a tight pull-off with a camper in the back blocking my view. And as I may have said, I have kind of a crush/love affair with chrome so I wanted that fancy chrome mirror LMC sells. It's honestly my favorite "little detail" in this restomod. As a compromise between "functional" and "retro-cool" I went with this generic license plate camera. It's a wifi unit with no monitor - you pair it to your phone, so it's only useful for occasional use. But since that's my need... it was a good fit. I've yet to fire it up, actually. I have a bunch of "rear bumper stuff" on hold while I was dragging my feet deciding whether to replace the whole lighting harness or just splice in some new backup bulb sockets. Since I bit the bullet and bought new sockets, assuming they fit properly, I'll probably be finalizing that this week and can give some feedback on how it works. And what GMRS radio? I have the Midland MXT115 and a pair of their 15 Watt MicroMobile walkie talkies. This is the MXT275, a similar unit but it has the hidden with the channel/other controls are on the mic. I haven't run this radio before but it gets great reviews and I know somebody who likes it in their jeep. I wanted something a little "understated" so I like the hidden head unit.I normally use a Baofeng UV-5R handheld not because it's good but because it was super cheap and does everything I need but since this is sort of a self-Christmas-present I figured... I have a GMRS license so I can legally use the higher power bands but don't really have a need for that. Mostly I stick to 1-7 and Instead of trying to fill those holes (and I'm too OCD to ignore them) I was like "hmmm what can I put here?" to cover it up. And a mic mount for a radio just seemed like a perfect choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 I survive by running a lot of projects in parallel. Whenever it's warm I'm spraying, when it's not I'm wiring or wrenching. That also lets me keep moving on a lot of fronts without getting stuck waiting on parts for one task. Currently in progress: - Paint: 2 coats primer 3 coats color 1 coat clear done on right side and hood. Need to run two more coats of clear then do the left and bed. - Winch: I started on this yesterday by notching the winch tray I bought to fit between the bed rails (it was already super close, I only needed to take 1/2" off the rear rail of the tray in two spots). I have it up on jacks stands in about the area where I want to mount it. I have some 3x8 angle that looks like it will be perfect for some side brackets to the frame rails, then I plan to run some angle iron at 30-degree angles back to additional points on the frame rails to better distribute pulling loads along the frame. So far my plan to retain the original chrome front bumper will work out. I'll need to offset it about 2"" forward which I will do with some steel bushings. So far this is just a dry fit, but a promising one. - Wiring: Trailer plug and license plate camera are installed and wire is run, but not hooked up under the hood. I may do that tomorrow. - Fuel: Rear tank straps removed, discovered hitch is blocking me from dropping it and further, hitch is tack welded in and tank is still half full. Changed my mind about what I want to do here. I'm going to bring it to a shop and have them take it out. I think it'll be much safer to do on a lift. Then I'll install the new tank myself. - Interior: Need to install my GMRS radio. I'm stalling for reasons I can't explain. - Engine compartment: Need to refine a few wiring bits like my headlamp relay harness, the one I bought was a wee bit too short so I want to adjust how I have it laid out. And I bought a generic under-hood LED lighting kit in a huff after losing two bids on NOS lamps on eBay. I may or may not install it. - Suspension: Done but definitely needs an alignment. I think I'll try a shop for this. I figure they may not do it quite right but they're unlikely to do it "wronger" than me so I'll give it a go the first time. - Climate: Heat works great although the mixer push-pull is super stiff. I'm sure it;'s binding somewhere but don't care enough to find out. I've decided to have the A/C drained, it was R-12 and my plan is to have the same shop that yanks my gas tank drain the A/C as well, it's a service they "do." I'll leave it empty while I decide if I care, then when I decide I do (which is inevitable), I'll convert it to R-134A. That's an easy conversion and I have the manifold, vacuum, and other stuff to charge that properly. - High idle: I've decided not to mess with the carb. I've read all the posts here and watched countless videos and then I found a shop in Denver that specializes in older vehicles and does dyno tuning and carb work. I wanted to get it dyno'd anyway just out of curiosity (my engine's had some "tuning work" done on it) so I figure I'll just have them give it a go. - Oil leak: I have a very slow but noticeable oil leak I can't quite pinpoint. The drips are directly below where the clutch cable enters the clutch housing but I don't think that's the source. The truck is parked on a hill. Following leads a little it looks like it might be the rear corner of the driver's side valve cover and it's just dripping down and traveling where gravity takes it. I'm going to pressure wash the general trail to clean it up and confirm the source. (Obviously I'd love to have it be the valve cover itself since that's such an easy thing to fix. My fear is something like a rear main seal which is way beyond my current skills and garage capacity.) - Install Torklift camper tie downs. I'm sure I'll sing a different song once these are on but tbh I'm not thrilled with the installation method. I feel like they could have done a much better job both fitting it to the vehicle in general and documenting the install. - Install the spare tire mount: I know the under-bed mount is much maligned because it's such a pain but when you're planning on hauling a truck camper around it's really the best option. You may remember I scored all original parts on this: the support, mounting brackets, and even the special bolts. But there's no sense putting it on until I deal with the gas tank so it's on hold until then. - Final trim and so forth: I have bed rail caps, chrome wheel well trim, bed mats, and emblems all pending paint work. It just started snowing and they're saying it could last til Thursday so there's no telling when this stuff will happen. Some day. “ Install Torklift camper tie downs. I'm sure I'll sing a different song once these are on but tbh I'm not thrilled with the installation method. I feel like they could have done a much better job both fitting it to the vehicle in general and documenting the install.” My truck came with Torklift tie downs on it. So I don’t know about the install, but I’ll do what I can to help, pictures etc. I have used those tie downs a few times, not for a camper, but it was easier to tie down the load in my bed with those and some long and doubled up cargo straps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 “ Install Torklift camper tie downs. I'm sure I'll sing a different song once these are on but tbh I'm not thrilled with the installation method. I feel like they could have done a much better job both fitting it to the vehicle in general and documenting the install.” My truck came with Torklift tie downs on it. So I don’t know about the install, but I’ll do what I can to help, pictures etc. I have used those tie downs a few times, not for a camper, but it was easier to tie down the load in my bed with those and some long and doubled up cargo straps. Thanks Grumpin. Always good to have extra input. It's hard to imagine anything worse than the old tie down method that was used, which was ratchet straps from rotting/sagging brackets on the camper down to simple hooks in the outer wall of the body. There was no reinforcement at all and you know that outer bed steel isn't all that thick to begin with... Those of you that have driven trucks with campers (or anything tall/moderately heavy) in the bed, can you even IMAGINE going around a corner on a mountain road with that as your tie down while knowing your shocks are totally gone AND your tie-down is hooked to a garage-door slotted angle lag-bolted to a rotten piece of OSB on the camper? Honestly, this truck is almost a god luck symbol to me that it's still on the road and not totalled in a gully! Grumpin, you don't happen to have any memories/photos of what you did on the driver's side do you? These Torklift brackets are specific to this truck and model year, and they have some small slots where a cable can go through. It's pretty obvious this is clearance for the parking brake cable... but it doesn't "work". Where the brackets are supposed to go is just about where my parking brake cable adjuster is, where it splits from one cable into two. There's no way that thing fits around this. But I can't slide it forward much because my driver's side step bar is there. I'll take a better photo of this tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Thanks Grumpin. Always good to have extra input. It's hard to imagine anything worse than the old tie down method that was used, which was ratchet straps from rotting/sagging brackets on the camper down to simple hooks in the outer wall of the body. There was no reinforcement at all and you know that outer bed steel isn't all that thick to begin with... Those of you that have driven trucks with campers (or anything tall/moderately heavy) in the bed, can you even IMAGINE going around a corner on a mountain road with that as your tie down while knowing your shocks are totally gone AND your tie-down is hooked to a garage-door slotted angle lag-bolted to a rotten piece of OSB on the camper? Honestly, this truck is almost a god luck symbol to me that it's still on the road and not totalled in a gully! Grumpin, you don't happen to have any memories/photos of what you did on the driver's side do you? These Torklift brackets are specific to this truck and model year, and they have some small slots where a cable can go through. It's pretty obvious this is clearance for the parking brake cable... but it doesn't "work". Where the brackets are supposed to go is just about where my parking brake cable adjuster is, where it splits from one cable into two. There's no way that thing fits around this. But I can't slide it forward much because my driver's side step bar is there. I'll take a better photo of this tomorrow... We got some snow today and it’s supposed to be cold for a few days. I’ll try to get a look at it when I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Thanks Grumpin. Always good to have extra input. It's hard to imagine anything worse than the old tie down method that was used, which was ratchet straps from rotting/sagging brackets on the camper down to simple hooks in the outer wall of the body. There was no reinforcement at all and you know that outer bed steel isn't all that thick to begin with... Those of you that have driven trucks with campers (or anything tall/moderately heavy) in the bed, can you even IMAGINE going around a corner on a mountain road with that as your tie down while knowing your shocks are totally gone AND your tie-down is hooked to a garage-door slotted angle lag-bolted to a rotten piece of OSB on the camper? Honestly, this truck is almost a god luck symbol to me that it's still on the road and not totalled in a gully! Grumpin, you don't happen to have any memories/photos of what you did on the driver's side do you? These Torklift brackets are specific to this truck and model year, and they have some small slots where a cable can go through. It's pretty obvious this is clearance for the parking brake cable... but it doesn't "work". Where the brackets are supposed to go is just about where my parking brake cable adjuster is, where it splits from one cable into two. There's no way that thing fits around this. But I can't slide it forward much because my driver's side step bar is there. I'll take a better photo of this tomorrow... I think for once-in-a-while use that camera setup should work well. As for an update on mine, since the truck is down for EFI'ing I haven't used it in a month or so. But it was working very well before. Still want the promised waterproof front camera though. That radio was one I considered, but I wanted the mike to be smaller and didn't need the hidden approach. But I think they are quite similar. And I have the GMRS license as well. So I can use the correct offroading channel: 4 x 4 = 16. On the camper tie downs, I wouldn't have left the driveway with those. We had a 9 1/2' self-contained unit in a '72 F250 and even with good tiedowns it sometimes felt iffy. No way, Jose, I'd use those! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 We got some snow today and it’s supposed to be cold for a few days. I’ll try to get a look at it when I can. My 86 that came from Dane's neck of the woods had Happijac CA-FD8's on it that I sold to a guy in Alaska. The front plates bolted to the front face of the bed where the panels overlap and the rear 'bolts' just went through the outer bed shell. I was surprised that the holes from the rear ones weren't enlarged or tore but looked like they've never slipped or anything. Never had a camper on it myself so that's the only experience I have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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