Gary Lewis Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 Thanks for the tips all. I knew about the 600 wet sanding but didn't know Dawn would help. I think my main problem was just rushing it. This is a hunt rig, ANY paint on it is going to be better than what it was. But I was cheating like crazy because I was in a rush. I knew this coming week would be cold but I had a warm day on Friday so I figured I'd do what I could. So... after a bunch of prep (I took a fair bit down to eliminate rust, mostly, and to practice with Bondo a bit) I did basically the opposite of this advice. I sprayed two thin cost of Krylon rust protector primer, two coats of a Rust-Oleum enamel color coat, and two coats of clear coat. About 30 minutes apart. I knew better, I just honestly was in a rush and wanted to see what I could get away with! Anyway it doesn't look too terrible. It has a sort of ... "redneck patina" now. Maybe it'll lower my theft risk! I wouldn't call today a super productive day - me going to Harbor Freight is always a time waster to begin with. But I guess I did get one project done, the passenger side door is "together": I'm really happy with it although I do wish I'd shot a bit of primer on that rusty area lower-right before doing the final mount on everything. And I did not in the end get my power door locks hooked up. I just couldn't work out an angle that would work to mount it. But the manual lock works really well. This door still needs an alignment issue addressed (hinge pin, hopefully) but it's been through a lot since I started: 1. New window crank handle (old one was there but knob plastic cover was broken) from junkyard. 2. New window crank spring and spacer/sealer washer. 3. Cleaned and white-lithium lubed all window crank components to (mostly) eliminate massive squeaking. 4. New Coverlay door panel. 5. New Coverlay armrest, painted with LMC's adhesion promoter and Saddle paint. 6. New door glass run installed. 7. New door lock cylinder installed. 8. New Coverlay bottom liner and map pocket kit. 9. Slide lock push-rod tweaked with pliers to operate smoothly. 10. LMC stainless trim for both the carpet/door transition and the body rail below/outboard of that (under the door). Some regrets: 1. I wish I painted the slide lock trim plate before I knew LMC sold "saddle" color plastic paint, but it matches the dash so looks OK. 2. I could have tried a bit harder on the electric door locks. 3. I discovered at the last minute that my exterior horizontal window glass sealing strip has popped loose on one corner. It's actively scratching the window. But only in the millimeter right next to the edge of the window so it's not a huge deal / not very visible. So I left it. Waiting on parts again... There are always regrets. Frank Sinatra sang "Regrets, I've had a few" in the song My Way. So it seems likely that when we build our trucks "my way" we discover later a few things we'd have done differently. But you are making good progress. Keep on keeping on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 There are always regrets. Frank Sinatra sang "Regrets, I've had a few" in the song My Way. So it seems likely that when we build our trucks "my way" we discover later a few things we'd have done differently. But you are making good progress. Keep on keeping on! Thanks. I think the support and encouragement is the best part of a forum like this. I decided in the end not to do anything more on my hood. I'll always know I "can", but also that it's not worth the time. :) I realized I can keep practicing painting on the tailgate as my next step, which is good because it's going to be cold for a few days but the tailgate is removable and I can work on it in my garage... Speaking of being cold for a few days, that's going to slow down progress but also waiting on parts will too. I need to do my radiator (Jegs hasn't replied on the shipping damage yet), voltmeter (just got the shipping notification from Rocketman that it's on its way!), camper tiedowns (drilling is boring, procrastinating this one), winch (being lazy), driver's side door (waiting on parts), side trim (too cold to paint), and climate control panel (waiting on parts). Since I'm kind of stuck or don't want to be bothered with many tasks, I decided to tackle my radio trim. The ClassicCarStereos unit came with a bit of a trim ring but my bezel was obviously cut for just about a 1-DIN unit at some point: I needed a filler plate so I figured I'd give a go of 3D modeling and printing it. Here's what I came up with: We'll see how it turns out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Thanks. I think the support and encouragement is the best part of a forum like this. I decided in the end not to do anything more on my hood. I'll always know I "can", but also that it's not worth the time. :) I realized I can keep practicing painting on the tailgate as my next step, which is good because it's going to be cold for a few days but the tailgate is removable and I can work on it in my garage... Speaking of being cold for a few days, that's going to slow down progress but also waiting on parts will too. I need to do my radiator (Jegs hasn't replied on the shipping damage yet), voltmeter (just got the shipping notification from Rocketman that it's on its way!), camper tiedowns (drilling is boring, procrastinating this one), winch (being lazy), driver's side door (waiting on parts), side trim (too cold to paint), and climate control panel (waiting on parts). Since I'm kind of stuck or don't want to be bothered with many tasks, I decided to tackle my radio trim. The ClassicCarStereos unit came with a bit of a trim ring but my bezel was obviously cut for just about a 1-DIN unit at some point: I needed a filler plate so I figured I'd give a go of 3D modeling and printing it. Here's what I came up with: We'll see how it turns out... I like the idea of a filler plate. And I like the idea of a place to hold 3D drawings that have been printed. Just haven't gotten to it yet, but will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Thanks. I think the support and encouragement is the best part of a forum like this. I decided in the end not to do anything more on my hood. I'll always know I "can", but also that it's not worth the time. :) I realized I can keep practicing painting on the tailgate as my next step, which is good because it's going to be cold for a few days but the tailgate is removable and I can work on it in my garage... Speaking of being cold for a few days, that's going to slow down progress but also waiting on parts will too. I need to do my radiator (Jegs hasn't replied on the shipping damage yet), voltmeter (just got the shipping notification from Rocketman that it's on its way!), camper tiedowns (drilling is boring, procrastinating this one), winch (being lazy), driver's side door (waiting on parts), side trim (too cold to paint), and climate control panel (waiting on parts). Since I'm kind of stuck or don't want to be bothered with many tasks, I decided to tackle my radio trim. The ClassicCarStereos unit came with a bit of a trim ring but my bezel was obviously cut for just about a 1-DIN unit at some point: I needed a filler plate so I figured I'd give a go of 3D modeling and printing it. Here's what I came up with: We'll see how it turns out... Plate looks really good. Just mentioning this since I noticed it the other day but LMC has a Radio Delete Cover: 49-6416 https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-86-dashboard-components Again, you've got a great solution but just might come in handy for others if they don't have a printer and want clean edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 Plate looks really good. Just mentioning this since I noticed it the other day but LMC has a Radio Delete Cover: 49-6416 https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-86-dashboard-components Again, you've got a great solution but just might come in handy for others if they don't have a printer and want clean edges. I actually own that cover. It's pretty nice actually, with a raised "Ford" logo in the center. If somebody is deleting their radio I'd recommend it. It doesn't work in my case for two reasons. First, even if I wanted to cut/drill the center of it out to use as a radio bezel, the raised section doesn't line up very well. Second, and this may be a deal breaker for some even using it as a "delete" panel, it's not actually tall enough. The panel is the right size to cover a standard 1-DIN hole, if you've had one of those cut in a center console bezel. But mine had the more oddly shaped tetris-style cutout with a narrower 3/4" or so rectangle cut out above it. What I made in this model is a panel that will fit what you'd have if you cut out everything inside the silver detail line around that whole center section. This might be attractive to anybody who's had some hackery done to their bezel. I'll attach the file here if anybody wants it, though it's really nothing special. Actually, one word of caution, surface textures on 3D prints aren't going to be all that nice with respect to matching a Ford interior. My plan is to just use this as a backer plate and either sand/paint it to give it a matte texture, or maybe do a wood veneer on it While we're talking radios, what are y'all doing about mounting them? I feel like I need to make some kind of metal sleeve or brackets to hold the radio in place, and there's not much that seems ideal to attach things to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Plate looks really good. Just mentioning this since I noticed it the other day but LMC has a Radio Delete Cover: 49-6416 https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-86-dashboard-components Again, you've got a great solution but just might come in handy for others if they don't have a printer and want clean edges. I actually own that cover. It's pretty nice actually, with a raised "Ford" logo in the center. If somebody is deleting their radio I'd recommend it. It doesn't work in my case for two reasons. First, even if I wanted to cut/drill the center of it out to use as a radio bezel, the raised section doesn't line up very well. Second, and this may be a deal breaker for some even using it as a "delete" panel, it's not actually tall enough. The panel is the right size to cover a standard 1-DIN hole, if you've had one of those cut in a center console bezel. But mine had the more oddly shaped tetris-style cutout with a narrower 3/4" or so rectangle cut out above it. What I made in this model is a panel that will fit what you'd have if you cut out everything inside the silver detail line around that whole center section. This might be attractive to anybody who's had some hackery done to their bezel. I'll attach the file here if anybody wants it, though it's really nothing special. Actually, one word of caution, surface textures on 3D prints aren't going to be all that nice with respect to matching a Ford interior. My plan is to just use this as a backer plate and either sand/paint it to give it a matte texture, or maybe do a wood veneer on it While we're talking radios, what are y'all doing about mounting them? I feel like I need to make some kind of metal sleeve or brackets to hold the radio in place, and there's not much that seems ideal to attach things to... Good to know about the plate height since most that are hacked up will be the knob style. For a lot of the interior parts I 3d printed for my truck I did some light sanding, black paint and 2k clear (which I also did to the factory woodgrain). Close inspection will show the lines but to most passengers it'd never be noticed. What are you using for the print material? I went to a double din so had to do some extra work but even with that I got a jy bracket that screws to the back of a radio and then clips to the dash support. Took it and riveted it to the radio sleeve at the correct height so it would set level. So now the sleeve clips onto the dash support. I know Gary has a single din but can't recall if he used a clip screwed into the back of the radio or used a sleeve and hooked it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 Good to know about the plate height since most that are hacked up will be the knob style. For a lot of the interior parts I 3d printed for my truck I did some light sanding, black paint and 2k clear (which I also did to the factory woodgrain). Close inspection will show the lines but to most passengers it'd never be noticed. What are you using for the print material? I'm going to be trying the same approach (sand and paint). For the material I'm giving "ABS sanded black". I haven't tried a material sanded by the printer (I'm using CraftCloud3d, I don't own a printer myself) so I'm curious to see what kind of surface finish that has. I'll post photos. As for the rest though I think I made a mistake on this panel. I wasn't thinking through the mounting. All the other car radio installs I've done were more modern setups where the radio installs in a sleeve or carrier of some kind, and that's attached to a frame or rails behind the bezel. So I have some muscle memory from all that, and totally wasn't factoring in that these radios need to attach to the FACE. It's not just trim, it's the actual primary mount. Given that, I think I'll redo this trim panel. Instead of making it sit flush with the entire bezel, I'll make it sit proud, and try to work out some kind of springy "fingers". Maybe something like how this is done... I'm conflicted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Good to know about the plate height since most that are hacked up will be the knob style. For a lot of the interior parts I 3d printed for my truck I did some light sanding, black paint and 2k clear (which I also did to the factory woodgrain). Close inspection will show the lines but to most passengers it'd never be noticed. What are you using for the print material? I'm going to be trying the same approach (sand and paint). For the material I'm giving "ABS sanded black". I haven't tried a material sanded by the printer (I'm using CraftCloud3d, I don't own a printer myself) so I'm curious to see what kind of surface finish that has. I'll post photos. As for the rest though I think I made a mistake on this panel. I wasn't thinking through the mounting. All the other car radio installs I've done were more modern setups where the radio installs in a sleeve or carrier of some kind, and that's attached to a frame or rails behind the bezel. So I have some muscle memory from all that, and totally wasn't factoring in that these radios need to attach to the FACE. It's not just trim, it's the actual primary mount. Given that, I think I'll redo this trim panel. Instead of making it sit flush with the entire bezel, I'll make it sit proud, and try to work out some kind of springy "fingers". Maybe something like how this is done... I'm conflicted. Rattle cans and cold weather are not great. Sounds like you and I have comparable paint jobs and impatience! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Good to know about the plate height since most that are hacked up will be the knob style. For a lot of the interior parts I 3d printed for my truck I did some light sanding, black paint and 2k clear (which I also did to the factory woodgrain). Close inspection will show the lines but to most passengers it'd never be noticed. What are you using for the print material? I went to a double din so had to do some extra work but even with that I got a jy bracket that screws to the back of a radio and then clips to the dash support. Took it and riveted it to the radio sleeve at the correct height so it would set level. So now the sleeve clips onto the dash support. I know Gary has a single din but can't recall if he used a clip screwed into the back of the radio or used a sleeve and hooked it in. I used a Ford bracket. I thought I posted a link to it in this thread, but maybe not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Good to know about the plate height since most that are hacked up will be the knob style. For a lot of the interior parts I 3d printed for my truck I did some light sanding, black paint and 2k clear (which I also did to the factory woodgrain). Close inspection will show the lines but to most passengers it'd never be noticed. What are you using for the print material? I'm going to be trying the same approach (sand and paint). For the material I'm giving "ABS sanded black". I haven't tried a material sanded by the printer (I'm using CraftCloud3d, I don't own a printer myself) so I'm curious to see what kind of surface finish that has. I'll post photos. As for the rest though I think I made a mistake on this panel. I wasn't thinking through the mounting. All the other car radio installs I've done were more modern setups where the radio installs in a sleeve or carrier of some kind, and that's attached to a frame or rails behind the bezel. So I have some muscle memory from all that, and totally wasn't factoring in that these radios need to attach to the FACE. It's not just trim, it's the actual primary mount. Given that, I think I'll redo this trim panel. Instead of making it sit flush with the entire bezel, I'll make it sit proud, and try to work out some kind of springy "fingers". Maybe something like how this is done... I'm conflicted. There are brackets that attach to the front or side of the radio and then screw into the 4 holes on the plastic part of the dash (above and below) that provide the front support. The different radio styles had different brackets - knob style being more of a plate and the 'modified' din style being split with a bracket on either side. Take a look here: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/radios1.html Hopefully that helps you out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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