new gas tank brands - which is best?

[delco1946]

Hey All,

I've had ongoing fuel issues and think i might just have my tanks replaced. I've seen Spectra mentioned on here, but a quick search of AutoZone's website also mentions a Dorman brand. Dorman is more expensive, and generally you get what you pay for so i'd assume Dorman is better, but curious what other's experience has been? Are their other brands to consider?

I'm more interested in restoration/quality parts versus the cheapest thing that will tide me over for a couple years, so i'd love to hear what brands have impressed.

[kramttocs]

I'd be surprised if they aren't all the same, just rebranded. I'd go with a Spectra unless you wanted to see if someone was custom making them (and willing to pay for it).

Also interested to hear if anyone has done a hands on comparison.

[delco1946]

I'd be surprised if they aren't all the same, just rebranded. I'd go with a Spectra unless you wanted to see if someone was custom making them (and willing to pay for it).

Also interested to hear if anyone has done a hands on comparison.

Well part of the reason I asked is that the dorman brand appeared to have a dark exterior, making me believe that it’s been coated from the factory for added protection whereas the spectra brand does not seem to have that, Based on pictures and threads on the side.

[kramttocs]

Well part of the reason I asked is that the dorman brand appeared to have a dark exterior, making me believe that it’s been coated from the factory for added protection whereas the spectra brand does not seem to have that, Based on pictures and threads on the side.

Ah, didn't realize the photos showed a potential difference.

We've used red kote on rusty tractor tanks so haven't ever used a sealer like that (I see POR15 makes one also) on a new tank but might be worth some research to see if it would add significant longevity.

[delco1946]

Ah, didn't realize the photos showed a potential difference.

We've used red kote on rusty tractor tanks so haven't ever used a sealer like that (I see POR15 makes one also) on a new tank but might be worth some research to see if it would add significant longevity.

Rock Auto seems to be substantially cheaper with 3 brands including one called "ultra-power" which is the most expensive, but still reasonable. Looks nicer/sturdier per the pics.

I have 2 tanks, and per the site documentation, for a 133" wheelbase from 1981, both are 19 gallons, so I assume one is "midship/side mount" and the other is "behind rear axle". Seems obvious but am I neglecting anything else before I buy? I've heard Rock Auto is difficult with returns....

Anything else I should buy at the same time to replace while the tanks are being replaced?

Thank you!

[JohnC]

I'd be surprised if they aren't all the same, just rebranded. I'd go with a Spectra unless you wanted to see if someone was custom making them (and willing to pay for it).

Also interested to hear if anyone has done a hands on comparison.

I went to my local parts store to get my tanks. If there was any issues, there was no concerns about shipping. I/O'riley's did get the correct ones the first time. I had searched for the better tank and they all seemed to be the same.

[RenoHuskerDu]

If you can consider moving your spare tire up into the bed, then you can run a Spectra 36 gallon deep rear tank and throw away both the front tank and the problematic tank switching system. That also lets you run a shorty dual exhaust with side dumps, and "listen to the music" while you drive. Then use the tank switch on the dash as an ignition kill that only you know about. We extend the fuel pickup down into the deeper tank with light weight RC fuel hose. As for the gauge, we do not extend that because there are too many stories of it breaking, me included. We bend the arm so it reads Full until 3/4 then hits Empty at 1/4. The trip odometer becomes your good buddy.

Some Dorman parts are chinesium junk, such as the 4.6 v8 replacement intake manifold with its sheet metal screw attachments, instead of proper threaded machine screw inserts into the plastic. In my world of Ford diesels I've learned to avoid Dorman. I did buy one of their replacement Super Duty window crank handles and it works is all I'll say.

But I don't know about Dorman tanks. Spectras were made in Canada until recently, but now they say only North America, which might mean NAFTA. Which could be Chile or Antarctica now for all I know or care...

FYI

[JohnC]

If you can consider moving your spare tire up into the bed, then you can run a Spectra 36 gallon deep rear tank and throw away both the front tank and the problematic tank switching system. That also lets you run a shorty dual exhaust with side dumps, and "listen to the music" while you drive. Then use the tank switch on the dash as an ignition kill that only you know about. We extend the fuel pickup down into the deeper tank with light weight RC fuel hose. As for the gauge, we do not extend that because there are too many stories of it breaking, me included. We bend the arm so it reads Full until 3/4 then hits Empty at 1/4. The trip odometer becomes your good buddy.

Some Dorman parts are chinesium junk, such as the 4.6 v8 replacement intake manifold with its sheet metal screw attachments, instead of proper threaded machine screw inserts into the plastic. In my world of Ford diesels I've learned to avoid Dorman. I did buy one of their replacement Super Duty window crank handles and it works is all I'll say.

But I don't know about Dorman tanks. Spectras were made in Canada until recently, but now they say only North America, which might mean NAFTA. Which could be Chile or Antarctica now for all I know or care...

FYI

I filled my tank until it was at the bottom of the pickup tube, then I added two gallons of fuel, then I adjusted the float arm until the gauge read empty. I know that when the gauge reads empty, I have maybe 20 miles to go. I did this with the bed off the truck. I do not think it could be done as well with the bed on.

[mat in tn]

I filled my tank until it was at the bottom of the pickup tube, then I added two gallons of fuel, then I adjusted the float arm until the gauge read empty. I know that when the gauge reads empty, I have maybe 20 miles to go. I did this with the bed off the truck. I do not think it could be done as well with the bed on.

be practical. when you are replacing any tank(s) replace the fill hoses also. you may also look for any options for tank assembly to get the sender units too. one usually lasts about as long as the other .

[Lima Delta]

Rock Auto seems to be substantially cheaper with 3 brands including one called "ultra-power" which is the most expensive, but still reasonable. Looks nicer/sturdier per the pics.

I have 2 tanks, and per the site documentation, for a 133" wheelbase from 1981, both are 19 gallons, so I assume one is "midship/side mount" and the other is "behind rear axle". Seems obvious but am I neglecting anything else before I buy? I've heard Rock Auto is difficult with returns....

Anything else I should buy at the same time to replace while the tanks are being replaced?

Thank you!

I wished I had taken the time to replace the filler neck/hose assemblies when I replaced my tanks.

They looked alright when I replaced the tanks, and finding parts was a pain, so I left them.

Fast forward five or six years and the tanks are in fine shape but the filler assemblies leak if the tanks are more than 3/4 full and I'm on a grade.