No start...only clicking :-(

[IowaTom]

I've been going through my '85 F150 XLT since buying her about a month ago. One of the things I replaced was the column ignition switch. The old one was really used up. Now, I'm only getting a click of the solenoid relay when I try to start her. All battery connections are clean and good, with a 12v reading at the battery posts.

Using Gary's instructions for 'centering' the actuator lever by dropping the column and using a drill bit, I thought I'd found the sweet spot. What I didn't do was remove the plug of incoming wires. Guess I need to do that and try again, right?

Something tells me this new switch is the reason my truck isn't starting, as it's the only thing I can determine being the cause. Something isn't making the right connection!

[mat in tn]

well normally we look at the last thing done when troubleshooting. however this might be a coincidence. the more common cause when you here ''clicking'' is low battery voltage. if you hear one good click and then nothing it is probably your starter solenoid (the main relay on the fender right beside the battery).if you hear a series of multiple clicks its typically low voltage.

[Gary Lewis]

well normally we look at the last thing done when troubleshooting. however this might be a coincidence. the more common cause when you here ''clicking'' is low battery voltage. if you hear one good click and then nothing it is probably your starter solenoid (the main relay on the fender right beside the battery).if you hear a series of multiple clicks its typically low voltage.

That's good advice. So check the battery.

And then, if the battery is fully charged, start checking connections. And the easiest way to do that is with a trouble light since you can put it on and then go turn the key. I'd connect it to the starter relay's output side and see if it lights strongly when you turn the key to Start. If it does, connect it down at the starter and see if it still lights.

And then, if that fails I'd go to voltage drop testing. You may ask what that is, but we have a good writeup on how to do it at Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. Somewhere along the line you probably have a bad connection, and this testing will find it.

[IowaTom]

That's good advice. So check the battery.

And then, if the battery is fully charged, start checking connections. And the easiest way to do that is with a trouble light since you can put it on and then go turn the key. I'd connect it to the starter relay's output side and see if it lights strongly when you turn the key to Start. If it does, connect it down at the starter and see if it still lights.

And then, if that fails I'd go to voltage drop testing. You may ask what that is, but we have a good writeup on how to do it at Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. Somewhere along the line you probably have a bad connection, and this testing will find it.

Thanks Guys!

I'd taken to starter to my auto electric friend who suggested a later model (and much lighter) starter with the relay piggybacked. So I took him up on that and moved both battery cables to one lug, on the original relay, and still get the same result. One click and nothing.

Going to readjust the slide switch on the column later today and report back. Thanks for the ideas!!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Guys!

I'd taken to starter to my auto electric friend who suggested a later model (and much lighter) starter with the relay piggybacked. So I took him up on that and moved both battery cables to one lug, on the original relay, and still get the same result. One click and nothing.

Going to readjust the slide switch on the column later today and report back. Thanks for the ideas!!

I think there may be two issues here:

• One Click & Nothing: As was said, if the battery is low or bad, or if the cable from the battery to the relay has a bad connection you can get the relay to click but the starter won't spin. And if the battery is low you might get it to click once and then not again until the battery builds back up again. So have you checked the battery? I would put my meter on the battery terminal on the relay and then turn the key and see what the voltage does at the relay. I needs to stay up around 12 volts.

• PMGR Starter: The smaller/lighter starter you described is a Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction unit, and is much superior to the old style starters. But you have to do more than just move the starter cable to the battery side of the relay. You also have to run a new wire to the starter, as described here: Documentation/Electrical/PMGR Starter Wiring. Without that extra wire the starter is not going to spin.

[IowaTom]

I think there may be two issues here:

• One Click & Nothing: As was said, if the battery is low or bad, or if the cable from the battery to the relay has a bad connection you can get the relay to click but the starter won't spin. And if the battery is low you might get it to click once and then not again until the battery builds back up again. So have you checked the battery? I would put my meter on the battery terminal on the relay and then turn the key and see what the voltage does at the relay. I needs to stay up around 12 volts.

• PMGR Starter: The smaller/lighter starter you described is a Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction unit, and is much superior to the old style starters. But you have to do more than just move the starter cable to the battery side of the relay. You also have to run a new wire to the starter, as described here: Documentation/Electrical/PMGR Starter Wiring. Without that extra wire the starter is not going to spin.

Gary - I can't thank you enough for your basic and simple explanations for doltzes like me. I've got to do some wiring today because I see your schematic is not my reality...yet!

[Gary Lewis]

Gary - I can't thank you enough for your basic and simple explanations for doltzes like me. I've got to do some wiring today because I see your schematic is not my reality...yet!

Tom - Hang in there, you'll get it fixed, and soon.

[IowaTom]

Tom - Hang in there, you'll get it fixed, and soon.

It turned right over, much to my relief! Again, thank you for the diagrams and explanations!

The previous owner is a mechanic and he did an HEI GM-type conversion with the distributor, removing the control modules. The engine is an early 90s vintage and he installed a new carb. It runs rough. I'm not at all happy with the way it feels and I'm not anxious to take it out in traffic until I get things smooth.

Going to ask him about the timing marks and if he saw them when installing the engine.

Also, not getting 14v at the battery while running. Should I be concerned?

[Gary Lewis]

It turned right over, much to my relief! Again, thank you for the diagrams and explanations!

The previous owner is a mechanic and he did an HEI GM-type conversion with the distributor, removing the control modules. The engine is an early 90s vintage and he installed a new carb. It runs rough. I'm not at all happy with the way it feels and I'm not anxious to take it out in traffic until I get things smooth.

Going to ask him about the timing marks and if he saw them when installing the engine.

Also, not getting 14v at the battery while running. Should I be concerned?

Glad you got it running.

On the battery voltage, if it is north of 12.8 volts then the alternator and regulator are functioning. And depending on how low the battery charge has gotten and how long your ran the engine, as well as how fast you spun it, the voltage might only be in the high 13's.

I say that as I assume you are running the original alternator. But it is entirely possible that the PO went with the 3G alternator that might have been on the 90's engine originally. I'm not sure when the trucks got them, but in '94 Ford introduced the 3G, which is much superior to the 1G, and vastly superior to the 2G.

I mention that because the 3G puts out more at idle than the 1G or 2G does at full tilt. So if you have a 3G then you should be seeing voltages into the 14's, even at idle. But the 1G or 2G might not get you there if the battery is low.

[IowaTom]

Glad you got it running.

On the battery voltage, if it is north of 12.8 volts then the alternator and regulator are functioning. And depending on how low the battery charge has gotten and how long your ran the engine, as well as how fast you spun it, the voltage might only be in the high 13's.

I say that as I assume you are running the original alternator. But it is entirely possible that the PO went with the 3G alternator that might have been on the 90's engine originally. I'm not sure when the trucks got them, but in '94 Ford introduced the 3G, which is much superior to the 1G, and vastly superior to the 2G.

I mention that because the 3G puts out more at idle than the 1G or 2G does at full tilt. So if you have a 3G then you should be seeing voltages into the 14's, even at idle. But the 1G or 2G might not get you there if the battery is low.

I believe it's the first generation, Gary. The alt looked really oxidized and just old, but tested well at the auto electric shop. I called him and he suggested I put an alligator clip on the big lug, behind the alternator with my VOM while it's running and see if it's not putting out more than just 12v.

Also he suggested I see if there's voltage on the smaller lug, under the big one (field?) with just the key on.

I'll do both tomorrow and report back!