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Paint code


IowaTom

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I can't read your certification label because the hot spot from the flash washed the paint code out. The code should be where the 2K is that I've circled below. Does yours say 9W there?

And 9W is Dark Charcoal Metallic, which was used from '83 through '85. Is that what you have?

Certification_Label_-_Paint_Code.thumb.jpg.2e4634177465f9e30600febba7f7bc4c.jpg

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I can't read your certification label because the hot spot from the flash washed the paint code out. The code should be where the 2K is that I've circled below. Does yours say 9W there?

And 9W is Dark Charcoal Metallic, which was used from '83 through '85. Is that what you have?

My paint code is printed in exactly the same spot as yours. Right above the word “Exterior”. It is pretty hard to read but it does look like 9W.

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Tom - I moved this thread out of the New Members Start Here folder into the main part of the forum as that is where it belongs.

Thanks Carl & Gary! I suppose you could call it Dark Charcoal Metallic.

I've got to get one of those little bottles of touch-up. The top driver's door hinge was kaput and I ordered a replacement off Ebay. Wound up taking the driver side fender off to get at the hinge bolts while squaring up the door, so to speak. Managed to skin a little paint getting things back together. Another layer of the onion!

I also got a 2 and 1/4" tach that I plan to mount in the center blank of my dashboard. Any ideas on where I can tap a switched 12v source?

Thanks again!

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Thanks Carl & Gary! I suppose you could call it Dark Charcoal Metallic.

I've got to get one of those little bottles of touch-up. The top driver's door hinge was kaput and I ordered a replacement off Ebay. Wound up taking the driver side fender off to get at the hinge bolts while squaring up the door, so to speak. Managed to skin a little paint getting things back together. Another layer of the onion!

I also got a 2 and 1/4" tach that I plan to mount in the center blank of my dashboard. Any ideas on where I can tap a switched 12v source?

Thanks again!

Wait, could it be the #16 post?

Ignition.jpg.121086ba674f1f0956f0a3a051c1b7cf.jpg

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Tom - I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you asking if the #16 ignition circuit can be the problem? Or the #16 terminal on the switch? :nabble_anim_confused:

Gary - I got a 2 and 1/4" tach that I plan to mount in the center blank of my dashboard. Do you think it's okay for me to tap the #16 blade as a switched 12v source?

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Gary - I got a 2 and 1/4" tach that I plan to mount in the center blank of my dashboard. Do you think it's okay for me to tap the #16 blade as a switched 12v source?

Oh! Now I understand. :nabble_smiley_blush:

No, I wouldn't tap that circuit as it isn't fused. It is protected by a fusible link, but if you lose that you lose the engine and you'll have fun replacing the link.

Instead I'd pic a circuit that is fused. Like the Y/BK wire that is CKT #137 going to the radio. It is fused at 15 amps and if you blow it you'll just lose the radio. And you can easily replace the fuse.

1985-etm-page16.thumb.jpg.ffbe3826a9e458c7cfbff03f9a66ea70.jpg

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