ratdude747 Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 My bullnose is possibly coming due for spark plugs (recently started running a bit rougher; the plugs have about 13,000 on them)... and I remembered that my buddy ran copper E3's in his TFI iginitioned '94 tempo with the HSC 4 banger (which I later owned) and it seemed to like them nicely. Since such is basically a fuel injected 300 with two cylinder chopped off, would they be worth a try in my feedback carbed (TFI) 300? Or should I stick with the copper motorcraft plugs I normally run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 Go with the BSF44P Motorcraft spark plug which is specified for the 1987 and later FI 4.9L. It reaches farther into the combustion chamber. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/motorcraft-spark-plug-bsf44p-sp-452/18090030-P?searchTerm=spark+plugs They work extremely well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 Go with the BSF44P Motorcraft spark plug which is specified for the 1987 and later FI 4.9L. It reaches farther into the combustion chamber. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/motorcraft-spark-plug-bsf44p-sp-452/18090030-P?searchTerm=spark+plugs They work extremely well. Did not know about those. Ordered a set of them from O'reiley (I have a can of bumper coater to pick up tomorrow so saves me a trip ordering there). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 Did not know about those. Ordered a set of them from O'reiley (I have a can of bumper coater to pick up tomorrow so saves me a trip ordering there). It is always a good idea to apply a light coating of anti seize compound to the spark plug threads prior to installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 It is always a good idea to apply a light coating of anti seize compound to the spark plug threads prior to installation. I usually don't... O2 Sensors, yes. Noted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 It is always a good idea to apply a light coating of anti seize compound to the spark plug threads prior to installation. And do NOT get any on the electrode. It will NOT bake off. DAHIK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 It is always a good idea to apply a light coating of anti seize compound to the spark plug threads prior to installation. And do NOT get any on the electrode. It will NOT bake off. DAHIK. Which is partially why I never did! May see if I can get some of the copper kind... we use it at work for mating up high current copper welding bars/cables due to the conductivity (especially on old pieces that are somewhat pitted). I have the Aluminum kind and while for non-electrical use it's fine, I'd think it'd be less than idea in this case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 Which is partially why I never did! May see if I can get some of the copper kind... we use it at work for mating up high current copper welding bars/cables due to the conductivity (especially on old pieces that are somewhat pitted). I have the Aluminum kind and while for non-electrical use it's fine, I'd think it'd be less than idea in this case? I use the aluminum kind all the time on spark plugs and other things. I have the copper, but prefer the aluminum. And the only problem on spark plugs is if you paint the electrode. The stuff conducts quite well and bakes into the porcelain. But that would be true of aluminum or copper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 I use the aluminum kind all the time on spark plugs and other things. I have the copper, but prefer the aluminum. And the only problem on spark plugs is if you paint the electrode. The stuff conducts quite well and bakes into the porcelain. But that would be true of aluminum or copper. The issue with Aluminum is that it corrodes... same reason why residential aluminum wire went the way of the dodo (in a literal blaze of glory!). Copper not so much... why I'd think it'd be better for a conductive situation (improve the ground connection). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 The issue with Aluminum is that it corrodes... same reason why residential aluminum wire went the way of the dodo (in a literal blaze of glory!). Copper not so much... why I'd think it'd be better for a conductive situation (improve the ground connection). I am going to throw my $.02 in on this one (FWIW). I found in running a tune up and carburetor shop a lot of interesting facts. First "gimmick" plugs, they may help, but usually just the fact that they are new is most of the improvement. Second, anti seize, I use the nickel base one on aluminum heads, generally not on iron heads. For those of us who have other than just Ford trucks, plug sourcing can get interesting. OEM for US manufacturers were AC - GM (they own them), Autolite - Ford until they were sold, Champion, Chrysler and AMC. Ford now calls for Motorcraft. Plug numbering systems can be a real can of worms, for years they were alpha-numeric, the alpha portion identifying the basic geometry and the numeric the heat range, lower = colder, higher = hotter. Examples - BF42, Autolite plug for most Ford V8s from the Y-block through the early 429/460 engines. BF32 was colder (My Shelby used them) BF82, much hotter, most 6 cyl Fords for years. Champion N - Nash, long reach (3/4") J - GM mostly, short reach (3/8") H - Hudson, plug used in many Onan built engines also. AC plugs use a reverse sequence with the number first then the reach letters, 44F, fairly hot, 3/8" reach, 42F a bit colder. 42FF Corvair .472" reach, same plug as a VW Beetle air cooled engine. AC stopped making the FF plugs in the late 90s, saying to use the F plugs, problems caused are the inner end of the plug is slightly recessed into the threads. Plug reach, and tip design (projected vs flush) can make a huge difference in engine running, Two personal examples (not mine, but friends vehicles) Bosch platinum plugs in EFI Fords = poor running, erratic misfire etc. Don't ask my why, it was on several 302 EFI engines. AC plugs, correct heat range and reach by the catalog, 1994 F150 5.0L, abysmal fuel economy, owner had inherited the truck as a payment for administering his neighbors will. He pulled the plugs and found the ACs, put Motorcraft ones in, damn near doubled his gas mileage. He called me on his cell from I64 on his way to his retirement home he was building and started singing "I'm a believer" to me. He was already beyond Richmond from Newport News with a load of material and hadn't even used 1/2 of the first tank where before he would have been switching tanks by then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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