Front clip reassembly

[Littlebeefy]

Hi all,

I'm still ironing out some engine bay issues with the 460 (turns out that heavy duty polyurethane motor mounts raise the height of the engine by a couple of inches which causes all sorts of problems). Still, I'm close to being ready to reassemble the front clip.

I'm hoping someone can point me to a reassembly procedure or video that can walk me through the steps. I see the exploded diagrams on the site, but I was wondering if there was something a bit more thorough. I know it's a tall order, but does anyone have any advice?

Thanks

Chad

[Gary Lewis]

Chad - I don't think there is any documentation on the site that would give you the order of assembly. But having done it once or twice I'll take a stab at it, although I'm sure I'll miss something. Assuming you have the engine in, I'd:

1. Install the radiator support. Start with the number of shims that came off.

2. Install the fenders and shim them at the rear to align with the cowl, and shim the radiator support to align the fenders with the bed

3. Install the brackets that tie the fenders to the radiator support but don't tighten them down

4. Set the A/C condenser in place

5. Install the radiator

6. Attach the condenser to the radiator support

7. Install the valance, aka rock guard, that ties the fenders together at the bottom

8. Install the hood latch support & hood latch

9. Install the headlight doors & the plastic pieces that go behind them so you can't see through

10. Install the grille

11. Install the upper and lower trim over/under the grille

12: Install the hood and adjust it to fit between the fenders and the fenders in/out to clear the hood

13: Install the bumper

 

[ratdude747]

Chad - I don't think there is any documentation on the site that would give you the order of assembly. But having done it once or twice I'll take a stab at it, although I'm sure I'll miss something. Assuming you have the engine in, I'd:

1. Install the radiator support. Start with the number of shims that came off.

2. Install the fenders and shim them at the rear to align with the cowl, and shim the radiator support to align the fenders with the bed

3. Install the brackets that tie the fenders to the radiator support but don't tighten them down

4. Set the A/C condenser in place

5. Install the radiator

6. Attach the condenser to the radiator support

7. Install the valance, aka rock guard, that ties the fenders together at the bottom

8. Install the hood latch support & hood latch

9. Install the headlight doors & the plastic pieces that go behind them so you can't see through

10. Install the grille

11. Install the upper and lower trim over/under the grille

12: Install the hood and adjust it to fit between the fenders and the fenders in/out to clear the hood

13: Install the bumper

Having done this recently, some comments:

-This can be done with the bumper in place... but it's a big pain in the butt installing the lower valence. Used a mix of 1/4" sockets and long extensions to be able to get around the bumper to bolt everything down from underneath. Not enough of a pain to warrant pulling the bumper if it's still attached in my opinion.

-The headlight buckets (and headlights) can be installed at any time. I moved mine over before the radiator (core) support was installed. Just be careful not to bust out the headlights in later steps!

-Between steps 8 and 9 one needs to install the grille braces and upper valence (the part with the emissions tag). Then install the plastic headlight surrounds and after that the aluminum grille surrounds.

-None of the trucks I pulled parts from (mine or donors at the JY) had shims... but my body lines are awful, so take this with a grain of salt.

-Once the metal is together the hood can go on. I suggest adjusting it before any of the plastic/aluminum grille related parts go on due to easier bolt access under the upper valence. With the inner grille installed I think the latch bolts are inaccessible anyway.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Having done this recently, some comments:

-This can be done with the bumper in place... but it's a big pain in the butt installing the lower valence. Used a mix of 1/4" sockets and long extensions to be able to get around the bumper to bolt everything down from underneath. Not enough of a pain to warrant pulling the bumper if it's still attached in my opinion.

-The headlight buckets (and headlights) can be installed at any time. I moved mine over before the radiator (core) support was installed. Just be careful not to bust out the headlights in later steps!

-Between steps 8 and 9 one needs to install the grille braces and upper valence (the part with the emissions tag). Then install the plastic headlight surrounds and after that the aluminum grille surrounds.

-None of the trucks I pulled parts from (mine or donors at the JY) had shims... but my body lines are awful, so take this with a grain of salt.

-Once the metal is together the hood can go on. I suggest adjusting it before any of the plastic/aluminum grille related parts go on due to easier bolt access under the upper valence. With the inner grille installed I think the latch bolts are inaccessible anyway.

Good upgrades, Larry. Once others have had a chance to chime in perhaps we need to put this list in a place where it can easily be found. What about in a new page at Documentation/Body/Front Clip?

[Littlebeefy]

Good upgrades, Larry. Once others have had a chance to chime in perhaps we need to put this list in a place where it can easily be found. What about in a new page at Documentation/Body/Front Clip?

I remember putting together the grill and front trim was a pain, even following the WSM. This will help, guys. Thank you.

Luckily I didn’t remove the fenders or hood and I saved and marked the shims that I took out from under the core support (although rust repair may mean it’s a new level). Hopefully that will make things slightly easier.

My biggest problem is that so many of my u-nuts disintegrated and fell out when I disassembled the core support. I’ve got new replacements but knowing which goes exactly where is difficult. It’s not like the explosion diagrams are extremely detailed (the diagrams in my kids Lego sets are far more clear hahaha). I was really careful to save all of the screws and mark what they went to, but the exact position of each with respect to the core support is a lot harder without the u nuts already in the right place. Any recommendations for getting any more detailed diagrams or pictures?

[Gary Lewis]

I remember putting together the grill and front trim was a pain, even following the WSM. This will help, guys. Thank you. Luckily I didn’t remove the fenders or hood and I saved and marked the shims that I took out from under the core support (although rust repair may mean it’s a new level). Hopefully that will make things slightly easier.My biggest problem is that so many of my u-nuts disintegrated and fell out when I disassembled the core support. I’ve got new replacements but knowing which goes exactly where is difficult. It’s not like the explosion diagrams are extremely detailed (the diagrams in my kids Lego sets are far more clear hahaha). I was really careful to save all of the screws and mark what they went to, but the exact position of each with respect to the core support is a lot harder without the u nuts already in the right place. Any recommendations for getting any more detailed diagrams or pictures?

Chad - I assume you found our page at Documentation/Fasteners & Illustrations/Radiator & Grille. That page isn't all that big, but I've extracted the same page from the MPC and am embedding it here as it should give you the clearest view you can possibly get of that drawing.

 

Note that at the bottom right you can click on the "100%" and make it bigger or smaller. Or you can click on the drop-down and down load it. Or, click on the full-screen button to be taken to a new tab with it open.

 

[Littlebeefy]

Chad - I assume you found our page at Documentation/Fasteners & Illustrations/Radiator & Grille. That page isn't all that big, but I've extracted the same page from the MPC and am embedding it here as it should give you the clearest view you can possibly get of that drawing.

 

Note that at the bottom right you can click on the "100%" and make it bigger or smaller. Or you can click on the drop-down and down load it. Or, click on the full-screen button to be taken to a new tab with it open.

 

Gary,That is definitely what I have been using. I went through that in detail to identify the correct replacement u-nuts and get some new versions of the more common fasteners. It has been extremely helpful, and, if I can't find anything better, these are the diagrams that I plan to use to guide my reinstallation. My concerns with these diagrams is they are incomplete; I definitely have some attachments that I'm not seeing on here. Also, they aren't completely accurate (as you know since you had to correct so many of the fastener part numbers). Some of the attachment points are all that clear either. Obviously way better than nothing, but I was hoping there was some special guide that body shops use when they repair vehicles (pipe dream).ThanksChad

[Gary Lewis]

Gary,

That is definitely what I have been using. I went through that in detail to identify the correct replacement u-nuts and get some new versions of the more common fasteners. It has been extremely helpful, and, if I can't find anything better, these are the diagrams that I plan to use to guide my reinstallation. My concerns with these diagrams is they are incomplete; I definitely have some attachments that I'm not seeing on here. Also, they aren't completely accurate (as you know since you had to correct so many of the fastener part numbers). Some of the attachment points are all that clear either. Obviously way better than nothing, but I was hoping there was some special guide that body shops use when they repair vehicles (pipe dream).

Thanks

Chad

Chad - Maybe you could take some pics when you get yours together? Include some measurements? We could put them on that page and help the next person that comes along.

[mat in tn]

Chad - Maybe you could take some pics when you get yours together? Include some measurements? We could put them on that page and help the next person that comes along.

having done this a number of times i may have a tip. i am usually dealing with new paint and tend to be slow and methodical in an effort to keep clumzyness at bay . i started using a pr of brackets made from 1/2'' emt with each end flattened in a vise and drilled for appropriate sizes then wrapped in masking tape. this brace is the length needed to hold core support in lieu of the fenders. so the drilled holes will be 1/2' at the cab end to bolt down yet the other a 5/16 to bolt to the core support. this allows me to install the hood by myself and aligning it and tightening it with easy access. i tend to put front fenders on late in the process for a few reasons . the hood being one. access to heat and air while testing and tuning. but also door aligning. new gaskets can tell you where the door needs to be and until the doors are ''home'' ,access to the hinges is a must. of course be certain to level the frame on jack stands. not the wheels as suspension pressure is not the same and these frames have a lot of flex

[Gary Lewis]

having done this a number of times i may have a tip. i am usually dealing with new paint and tend to be slow and methodical in an effort to keep clumzyness at bay . i started using a pr of brackets made from 1/2'' emt with each end flattened in a vise and drilled for appropriate sizes then wrapped in masking tape. this brace is the length needed to hold core support in lieu of the fenders. so the drilled holes will be 1/2' at the cab end to bolt down yet the other a 5/16 to bolt to the core support. this allows me to install the hood by myself and aligning it and tightening it with easy access. i tend to put front fenders on late in the process for a few reasons . the hood being one. access to heat and air while testing and tuning. but also door aligning. new gaskets can tell you where the door needs to be and until the doors are ''home'' ,access to the hinges is a must. of course be certain to level the frame on jack stands. not the wheels as suspension pressure is not the same and these frames have a lot of flex

Good idea! I wouldn't have thought of using EMT to hold the radiator support.