EGR Block off

BeagleRock · July 1, 2018

If the round vacuum reservoir is still properly connected but you lose vacuum and high throttle then either the check valve isn't working or you have a significant vacuum leak in the HVAC system.
You can test that theory by turning the blower on with the engine running, and then pulling the vacuum line that is going to the check valve. The easiest place might be the plastic manifold on the firewall. If the theory is correct you'll hear the doors move almost immediately, but if everything is working correctly it'll be maybe a minute or longer before it moves.
Or, you can sit in the truck after you turn the engine off and listen. Or turn the key back on to run the fan. If all is well nothing will change for several minutes. But if you have a problem it'll change almost immediately.
On the rough running, if you didn't get a good seal where the Coke can is then you can have a vacuum leak there. And the leak could change as the engine warms up with expansion of the parts. That would be a good place to check.

The hose going to the check valve from the firewall was lose! Put a clamp on it but same results. By removing the hose with engine running the creaking sound is immediate.

I did notice that I have to push on the choke pull down diaphram to get it to engage or suck in. That just tells me it's faulty but doesn't seem to have an affect on idle or anything else for that matter.

Anyway that's my story for today, back to work tomorrow 😌

Gary Lewis · July 1, 2018

The hose going to the check valve from the firewall was lose! Put a clamp on it but same results. By removing the hose with engine running the creaking sound is immediate.
I did notice that I have to push on the choke pull down diaphram to get it to engage or suck in. That just tells me it's faulty but doesn't seem to have an affect on idle or anything else for that matter.
Anyway that's my story for today, back to work tomorrow 😌

If the door creaks immediately on pulling the vacuum source then you have a leak or a bad check valve.

You can test the check valve by pulling the hose off the side going to the HVAC system, being careful because that stuff is brittle, and checking to see if there is still vacuum on it after you remove the source. One way to do that is to put a vacuum gauge on it. Another is to put your thumb over it and see if the vacuum remains when the source is pulled.

And you can test the HVAC system by pulling a vacuum on the line which you removed from the check valve. A Mityvac will work, our you can put the hose in your mouth and pull a vacuum. If the system is leaking you'll know pretty quickly.

On the choke, are you saying the pull-down doesn't open the choke unless you help it? That could be a problem as it might let the choke set when you give the engine a lot of gas and the vacuum drops off. Then when the vacuum comes back it might not pull the choke off properly.

For that check the linkage as it may be binding. Or the pull-down may have a hole or split in it.

BeagleRock · July 1, 2018

If the door creaks immediately on pulling the vacuum source then you have a leak or a bad check valve. You can test the check valve by pulling the hose off the side going to the HVAC system, being careful because that stuff is brittle, and checking to see if there is still vacuum on it after you remove the source. One way to do that is to put a vacuum gauge on it. Another is to put your thumb over it and see if the vacuum remains when the source is pulled.And you can test the HVAC system by pulling a vacuum on the line which you removed from the check valve. A Mityvac will work, our you can put the hose in your mouth and pull a vacuum. If the system is leaking you'll know pretty quickly.On the choke, are you saying the pull-down doesn't open the choke unless you help it? That could be a problem as it might let the choke set when you give the engine a lot of gas and the vacuum drops off. Then when the vacuum comes back it might not pull the choke off properly.For that check the linkage as it may be binding. Or the pull-down may have a hole or split in it.

Ok I'll check the HVAC if the rain stops before I go to work.

As for the choke pull off, Yes I have to physically push in on it and then it slowly pulls the rod in. Doesn't seem to be binding or anything else just weak vacuum.

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On Sunday, July 1, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

If the door creaks immediately on pulling the vacuum source then you have a leak or a bad check valve.

You can test the check valve by pulling the hose off the side going to the HVAC system, being careful because that stuff is brittle, and checking to see if there is still vacuum on it after you remove the source. One way to do that is to put a vacuum gauge on it. Another is to put your thumb over it and see if the vacuum remains when the source is pulled.

And you can test the HVAC system by pulling a vacuum on the line which you removed from the check valve. A Mityvac will work, our you can put the hose in your mouth and pull a vacuum. If the system is leaking you'll know pretty quickly.

On the choke, are you saying the pull-down doesn't open the choke unless you help it? That could be a problem as it might let the choke set when you give the engine a lot of gas and the vacuum drops off. Then when the vacuum comes back it might not pull the choke off properly.

For that check the linkage as it may be binding. Or the pull-down may have a hole or split in it. Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches

Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow

Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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BeagleRock · July 11, 2018

If the door creaks immediately on pulling the vacuum source then you have a leak or a bad check valve. You can test the check valve by pulling the hose off the side going to the HVAC system, being careful because that stuff is brittle, and checking to see if there is still vacuum on it after you remove the source. One way to do that is to put a vacuum gauge on it. Another is to put your thumb over it and see if the vacuum remains when the source is pulled.And you can test the HVAC system by pulling a vacuum on the line which you removed from the check valve. A Mityvac will work, our you can put the hose in your mouth and pull a vacuum. If the system is leaking you'll know pretty quickly.On the choke, are you saying the pull-down doesn't open the choke unless you help it? That could be a problem as it might let the choke set when you give the engine a lot of gas and the vacuum drops off. Then when the vacuum comes back it might not pull the choke off properly.For that check the linkage as it may be binding. Or the pull-down may have a hole or split in it.

Found a motorcraft check valve on amazon, should be here Fri. Hopefully that will cure my loss of vacuum to the HVAC.

Had a afib attack last night and had to miss work. Sure is scary when your heart starts racing to the tune of 114 beats per minute and all you're doing is driving to work 😓