BeagleRock Posted June 22, 2018 Author Share Posted June 22, 2018 That was my choice! 2 for $0.99. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted June 22, 2018 Author Share Posted June 22, 2018 Yes, it sounds like there's a significant vacuum leak. That's only way that it would idle that fast. Perhaps the PCV valve is bad? Try sticking your finger over the opening on the end of the PCV valve and see if the idle drops dramatically. Gary I got my nap in and was looking at pcv's and noticed mine has one outlet but Autozone, O'riellys etc. Show two outlets. Any idea where the second one would go? Or just get another like I have? I'm over analyzing things big time but am leaving no stone unturned. Will pick up a cigar a little later at Jonathan's request... egads I haven't smoked one of those in decades ! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Gary I got my nap in and was looking at pcv's and noticed mine has one outlet but Autozone, O'riellys etc. Show two outlets. Any idea where the second one would go? Or just get another like I have? I'm over analyzing things big time but am leaving no stone unturned. Will pick up a cigar a little later at Jonathan's request... egads I haven't smoked one of those in decades ! Lol All of the "2 outlet" PCV valves I've seen have had a blank for the top one. I've heard of some applications requiring two, so apparently for those you cut the tip off the second one. Anyway, go with one like you have. But don't forget to put your finger over the end of the PCV valve with the engine running to see if it'll idle down, which would indicate lots of air going through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 All of the "2 outlet" PCV valves I've seen have had a blank for the top one. I've heard of some applications requiring two, so apparently for those you cut the tip off the second one. Anyway, go with one like you have. But don't forget to put your finger over the end of the PCV valve with the engine running to see if it'll idle down, which would indicate lots of air going through it. New pcv valve and grommet ,Much better! Truck runs ok but still has a flat spot very early in acceleration .I have the radio out to test another one and noticed last night as I got the truck out on the turnpike that the vacuum controlled blend door motor makes a creaking sound when on the throttle hard and when I let off it . Is this normal or may I have a weak/cracked vacuum line going to the vacuum motors? I find it strange myself,its like vacuum leaves at full throttle and comes back when Ilet off of throttle. Since installing new pcv the oil filler cap with the hose that goes to the breather really puts out the blow by now! Well time to go earn some $ so I can put more of it in the Bluebird of Happiness 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 New pcv valve and grommet ,Much better! Truck runs ok but still has a flat spot very early in acceleration .I have the radio out to test another one and noticed last night as I got the truck out on the turnpike that the vacuum controlled blend door motor makes a creaking sound when on the throttle hard and when I let off it . Is this normal or may I have a weak/cracked vacuum line going to the vacuum motors? I find it strange myself,its like vacuum leaves at full throttle and comes back when Ilet off of throttle. Since installing new pcv the oil filler cap with the hose that goes to the breather really puts out the blow by now! Well time to go earn some $ so I can put more of it in the Bluebird of Happiness 😀 There should be a vacuum reservoir under the hood, which maintains vacuum during full throttle runs. On 1984's and 1985's [six cylinders], the reservoir is a black plastic ball shaped item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 New pcv valve and grommet ,Much better! Truck runs ok but still has a flat spot very early in acceleration .I have the radio out to test another one and noticed last night as I got the truck out on the turnpike that the vacuum controlled blend door motor makes a creaking sound when on the throttle hard and when I let off it . Is this normal or may I have a weak/cracked vacuum line going to the vacuum motors? I find it strange myself,its like vacuum leaves at full throttle and comes back when Ilet off of throttle. Since installing new pcv the oil filler cap with the hose that goes to the breather really puts out the blow by now! Well time to go earn some $ so I can put more of it in the Bluebird of Happiness 😀 Glad the PCV valve and grommet helped so much. You are peeling the onion, but have a few layers left to go. Tell us more about when the flat spot occurs. Is it just as you start to open the throttle? My guess on the blend door creaking is that you don't have the vacuum reservoir and check valve. They are shown on this page (Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Reservoirs), but there's a screen grab from it shown below. And, in that the top red circle shows the tee/check valve combo, and the bottom is the reservoir. However, if you read the text on that page you'll see that the reservoirs came in can and ball styles. What is supposed to happen is that vacuum from the intake manifold gets stored in the reservoir. The other side of the tee goes to the HVAC system through the grommet in the firewall. And when you floor the throttle the vacuum drops in the engine, but the check valve prevents the HVAC system from losing vacuum. However, w/o either the check valve or the reservoir the system loses vacuum and the door closes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 Glad the PCV valve and grommet helped so much. You are peeling the onion, but have a few layers left to go. Tell us more about when the flat spot occurs. Is it just as you start to open the throttle?My guess on the blend door creaking is that you don't have the vacuum reservoir and check valve. They are shown on this page (Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Reservoirs), but there's a screen grab from it shown below. And, in that the top red circle shows the tee/check valve combo, and the bottom is the reservoir. However, if you read the text on that page you'll see that the reservoirs came in can and ball styles.What is supposed to happen is that vacuum from the intake manifold gets stored in the reservoir. The other side of the tee goes to the HVAC system through the grommet in the firewall. And when you floor the throttle the vacuum drops in the engine, but the check valve prevents the HVAC system from losing vacuum. However, w/o either the check valve or the reservoir the system loses vacuum and the door closes.I'll check these things out tomorrow. I know I removed one that looked like Bushes Baked Beans can lol but the black sphere shaped one is still there. Can't answer the T check valve yet. Throttle is just barely pressed when engine runs rough.Thanks so much for the information Gary it is much appreciated!!! 😀 May drive the truck to the show yet! Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Thursday, June 28, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:Glad the PCV valve and grommet helped so much. You are peeling the onion, but have a few layers left to go. Tell us more about when the flat spot occurs. Is it just as you start to open the throttle? My guess on the blend door creaking is that you don't have the vacuum reservoir and check valve. They are shown on this page (Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Reservoirs), but there's a screen grab from it shown below. And, in that the top red circle shows the tee/check valve combo, and the bottom is the reservoir. However, if you read the text on that page you'll see that the reservoirs came in can and ball styles. What is supposed to happen is that vacuum from the intake manifold gets stored in the reservoir. The other side of the tee goes to the HVAC system through the grommet in the firewall. And when you floor the throttle the vacuum drops in the engine, but the check valve prevents the HVAC system from losing vacuum. However, w/o either the check valve or the reservoir the system loses vacuum and the door closes. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n12203/Vacuum_Reservoir_and_Check_Valve.jpg Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutchesBlue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max TowBig Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/EGR-Block-off-tp12005p12203.html To unsubscribe from EGR Block off, click here.NAML Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 David actually beat me to it on the vacuum issue. And, if you get to drive it to the show both he and I'll get to see it. As for the baked beans can vs sphere, both were used and it doesn't really matter which you have. The can appears to hold more, but the sphere gets the job done. However, the key is the check valve. On the rough spot, that sounds like a problem with the accelerator pump. Make sure you have two streams of gas shooting into the carb when you open the throttle - with the engine off. And, make sure you don't have much clearance between the linkage and the accelerator pump with the throttle closed. If you have much clearance it delays the pump's squirt until you've opened the throttle quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted June 30, 2018 Author Share Posted June 30, 2018 David actually beat me to it on the vacuum issue. And, if you get to drive it to the show both he and I'll get to see it.As for the baked beans can vs sphere, both were used and it doesn't really matter which you have. The can appears to hold more, but the sphere gets the job done. However, the key is the check valve.On the rough spot, that sounds like a problem with the accelerator pump. Make sure you have two streams of gas shooting into the carb when you open the throttle - with the engine off. And, make sure you don't have much clearance between the linkage and the accelerator pump with the throttle closed. If you have much clearance it delays the pump's squirt until you've opened the throttle quite a bit.Gary I removed the can way back but the round one is still hooked up to the check valve as it was originally. As for the flat spot it seems to straighten out after driving for 10-15 minutes and then starts running a little rough at about 1/4 throttle. Got me scratching my head. I still think there's a small vac leak or maybe the coke can that's now blocking off the EGR could be varying as temp rises or lowers , I'm in the paralysis by analysis mode now I fear. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Thursday, June 28, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:David actually beat me to it on the vacuum issue. And, if you get to drive it to the show both he and I'll get to see it. As for the baked beans can vs sphere, both were used and it doesn't really matter which you have. The can appears to hold more, but the sphere gets the job done. However, the key is the check valve. On the rough spot, that sounds like a problem with the accelerator pump. Make sure you have two streams of gas shooting into the carb when you open the throttle - with the engine off. And, make sure you don't have much clearance between the linkage and the accelerator pump with the throttle closed. If you have much clearance it delays the pump's squirt until you've opened the throttle quite a bit. Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutchesBlue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max TowBig Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/EGR-Block-off-tp12005p12208.html To unsubscribe from EGR Block off, click here.NAML Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 If the round vacuum reservoir is still properly connected but you lose vacuum and high throttle then either the check valve isn't working or you have a significant vacuum leak in the HVAC system. You can test that theory by turning the blower on with the engine running, and then pulling the vacuum line that is going to the check valve. The easiest place might be the plastic manifold on the firewall. If the theory is correct you'll hear the doors move almost immediately, but if everything is working correctly it'll be maybe a minute or longer before it moves. Or, you can sit in the truck after you turn the engine off and listen. Or turn the key back on to run the fan. If all is well nothing will change for several minutes. But if you have a problem it'll change almost immediately. On the rough running, if you didn't get a good seal where the Coke can is then you can have a vacuum leak there. And the leak could change as the engine warms up with expansion of the parts. That would be a good place to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts