1983 AOD 4x2 Transmission, anything I need to know?

[Rembrant]

Ok, then I have a conundrum for you. I have my best friend's 2003 E250 with a 5.4L engine, it has a 4R70 or 4R75W automatic in it (which was rebuilt/replaced 4 times while my brother's business owned it. Engine has never been further into than a water pump and thermostat with over 600K on it.

According the Baumann it should have an E4OD or 4R100. Bronco 302s came with E4OD and 4WD, that was where I found an EEC-IV for MAF/SEFI and E4OD before I went with the EEC-V.

Part of the confusion comes from Ford changing the transmission naming conventions. For years they simply used names, like Ford-O-Matic, Cruise-O-Matic, Turbo Drive (Lincolns). Then in 1964 the new light weight 3 speed was designated C4, this was apparently based on the Ford PN system which caused almost all the parts for it to start C4xx, same with the C6 in 1966. Now is where it starts getting murky, the C3 is a very light duty European origin transmission and the C5 is a modification of the C4.

In 1980 Ford introduced the AOD for Automatic Over Drive, when it was updated to be computer controlled it became the AOD-E or AODE for AOD Electronic. In 1988 when the big overdrive unit was released it was designated E4OD for Electronic 4 speed Over Drive.

Ford and GM have both rationalized their transmission/transaxle IDs, both used a number, letter, number sequence. 4R100 = 4 speed, rear wheel drive, 100 Mkg input torque, 10R100, 10 speed etc (GM calls the same unit a 10L100 for 10 speed longitudinal etc.)

The AODE evolved into the 4R70 and later 4R75W (W stands for wide ratio). In selecting a transmission for the Flathead, any Big (240/300) six or Windsor block pattern (watch out for the early 5 bolt C4 case) will work. Since the AOD was only used one or two years behind the 300, one of them is a rare beast. 351s got them in cars in the 80s and those will have beefier internals. The 4R7x ones would be my choice but keep in mind the Flathead has more low end torque than a 302.

Thanks for all the help gentlemen! I finally located the transmission I wanted and just paid for it this morning. It’s quite a drive away, so I won’t pick it up for a week or two.

In researching these transmissions I don’t think I have ever found so much confusing and/or conflicting information before lol.

Anyway, whether it’s right or wrong, I ended up with a 4R70W out of a 1996 F150…or depending on who you talk to, it is an AODE-W. I guess at the end of the day, it’s an AOD-E with 4R70W internals. It seems like the wide ratio units are a little more desirable…they have lower 1st and 2nd gears, and they did not show up until 1994 in the F150. They were also used in cars like the Lincoln and Thunderbird, but it seems only or mostly with the modular engines. So the best chance of finding one (with the wide ratio) and the SBF bolt pattern is to get one from a 1994-1996 F150. Problem is, it seems like most of these F150’s have E4OD’s in them, so the AOD-E/W is at least somewhat rare…with the SBF bolt pattern.

I looked at three 1993-1996 F150’s and they all had E4OD’s in them.

According to some sources, the trans was called the AOD-E up to 1995, and then in 1996 started being called the 4R70W. I dunno, it’s an odd topic to research because it seems like a lot of people disagree about them lol. Some people say that the 4R70W was never used behind a SBF, but an AOD-E with 4R70W internals is the same thing, I suppose. I read that the wide ratio units were developed for the modular engines since they have less

Low end torque than the SBF series.

Depends on who you’re talking to, I guess…

[85lebaront2]

Thanks for all the help gentlemen! I finally located the transmission I wanted and just paid for it this morning. It’s quite a drive away, so I won’t pick it up for a week or two.

In researching these transmissions I don’t think I have ever found so much confusing and/or conflicting information before lol.

Anyway, whether it’s right or wrong, I ended up with a 4R70W out of a 1996 F150…or depending on who you talk to, it is an AODE-W. I guess at the end of the day, it’s an AOD-E with 4R70W internals. It seems like the wide ratio units are a little more desirable…they have lower 1st and 2nd gears, and they did not show up until 1994 in the F150. They were also used in cars like the Lincoln and Thunderbird, but it seems only or mostly with the modular engines. So the best chance of finding one (with the wide ratio) and the SBF bolt pattern is to get one from a 1994-1996 F150. Problem is, it seems like most of these F150’s have E4OD’s in them, so the AOD-E/W is at least somewhat rare…with the SBF bolt pattern.

I looked at three 1993-1996 F150’s and they all had E4OD’s in them.

According to some sources, the trans was called the AOD-E up to 1995, and then in 1996 started being called the 4R70W. I dunno, it’s an odd topic to research because it seems like a lot of people disagree about them lol. Some people say that the 4R70W was never used behind a SBF, but an AOD-E with 4R70W internals is the same thing, I suppose. I read that the wide ratio units were developed for the modular engines since they have less

Low end torque than the SBF series.

Depends on who you’re talking to, I guess…

You aren't kidding that Mod Motors lack low end torque. My son has 2002 Excursion V10 4WD. It has 3.73 gears, but between the tires and axle ratio it ends up a bit better geared (in theory) for towing than Darth with 3.55 gears and 215/85R16 tyres. Towing his 1986 F150 on a borrowed trailer over the Blue Ridge mountains on US 17 he was clear down into 2nd gear in the 4R100.

Towing a contractors heavy duty trailer, loaded with a pair of roll up garage doors, 3 operators, a steel walk-in door plus having the bed loaded, Darth came out of 4th in the E4OD going up hill in the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel (much steeper grade) and settled at 54 mph and 2200 rpm in lockup, unlocked it was 2700 rpm. or about where the C6 ran at 55-60. This is with a well worn 460 and maybe 8:1 compression due to EFI heads on a carbureted short block.

[mat in tn]

You aren't kidding that Mod Motors lack low end torque. My son has 2002 Excursion V10 4WD. It has 3.73 gears, but between the tires and axle ratio it ends up a bit better geared (in theory) for towing than Darth with 3.55 gears and 215/85R16 tyres. Towing his 1986 F150 on a borrowed trailer over the Blue Ridge mountains on US 17 he was clear down into 2nd gear in the 4R100.

Towing a contractors heavy duty trailer, loaded with a pair of roll up garage doors, 3 operators, a steel walk-in door plus having the bed loaded, Darth came out of 4th in the E4OD going up hill in the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel (much steeper grade) and settled at 54 mph and 2200 rpm in lockup, unlocked it was 2700 rpm. or about where the C6 ran at 55-60. This is with a well worn 460 and maybe 8:1 compression due to EFI heads on a carbureted short block.

good choice on adding an od. the aod is a good transmission but there is one point often overlooked. the flex plate..the 5.0 has one balance whereas the 5.8 ,4.9 each have different balance. the c6 flex plate has one offset dimension different from the aod. each of these must be correct. years ago i bought an 86 5.8ho short bed to restore. the engine had been fairly modified and obviously money had been spent. anyway i towed it home. did i mention the rod sticking through the block/ pan opposite the filter. oh yeah. that.

after a thorough investigation i discovered a 5.0 flexplate. yes they bolt right on. out of balance.

now to tell on myself. if you use a flexplate for anything other than an aod with an aod it will hold the converter loaded against the inner pump drive gear. as soon as you start the engine the pump stator is ruined and now a rebuild is needed to remove the steel filings from everything. i learned this first hand. but i learned..

[Rembrant]

good choice on adding an od. the aod is a good transmission but there is one point often overlooked. the flex plate..the 5.0 has one balance whereas the 5.8 ,4.9 each have different balance. the c6 flex plate has one offset dimension different from the aod. each of these must be correct. years ago i bought an 86 5.8ho short bed to restore. the engine had been fairly modified and obviously money had been spent. anyway i towed it home. did i mention the rod sticking through the block/ pan opposite the filter. oh yeah. that.

after a thorough investigation i discovered a 5.0 flexplate. yes they bolt right on. out of balance.

now to tell on myself. if you use a flexplate for anything other than an aod with an aod it will hold the converter loaded against the inner pump drive gear. as soon as you start the engine the pump stator is ruined and now a rebuild is needed to remove the steel filings from everything. i learned this first hand. but i learned..

Ya, the small block Ford crankshaft counterbalanced parts have been causing problems and infuriating mechanics for many many years...lol, and it still happens today. The 302 and the 351w were the same @28oz counterbalance for many years, but in or around 1982, the 302 changed to 50oz and screwed everything up lol. The 300 inline 6 has a 0 counterbalance flywheel, yet they can all interchange with each other physically. A lot of people find out the hard way unfortunately.

Some people find out about the different size ring gears the hard way too. Some of the cars had 157 tooth, while the trucks were 164. Imagine bolting everything together, and only finding out when you try to start it the the starter bendix doesn't touch the ring gear lol. Whirrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Good to know on the flex plates, so thank you for that. I'll have to investigate. The 5.0 V8 I purchased came out of a 1996 F150 with an E4OD trans. The AODE-W/4R70W I bought also came out of a 1996 F150, also with a 5.0 V8. I might just order a new correct flex plate just to be safe. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[mat in tn]

good choice on adding an od. the aod is a good transmission but there is one point often overlooked. the flex plate..the 5.0 has one balance whereas the 5.8 ,4.9 each have different balance. the c6 flex plate has one offset dimension different from the aod. each of these must be correct. years ago i bought an 86 5.8ho short bed to restore. the engine had been fairly modified and obviously money had been spent. anyway i towed it home. did i mention the rod sticking through the block/ pan opposite the filter. oh yeah. that.

after a thorough investigation i discovered a 5.0 flexplate. yes they bolt right on. out of balance.

now to tell on myself. if you use a flexplate for anything other than an aod with an aod it will hold the converter loaded against the inner pump drive gear. as soon as you start the engine the pump stator is ruined and now a rebuild is needed to remove the steel filings from everything. i learned this first hand. but i learned..

Ya, the small block Ford crankshaft counterbalanced parts have been causing problems and infuriating mechanics for many many years...lol, and it still happens today. The 302 and the 351w were the same @28oz counterbalance for many years, but in or around 1982, the 302 changed to 50oz and screwed everything up lol. The 300 inline 6 has a 0 counterbalance flywheel, yet they can all interchange with each other physically. A lot of people find out the hard way unfortunately.

Some people find out about the different size ring gears the hard way too. Some of the cars had 157 tooth, while the trucks were 164. Imagine bolting everything together, and only finding out when you try to start it the the starter bendix doesn't touch the ring gear lol. Whirrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Good to know on the flex plates, so thank you for that. I'll have to investigate. The 5.0 V8 I purchased came out of a 1996 F150 with an E4OD trans. The AODE-W/4R70W I bought also came out of a 1996 F150, also with a 5.0 V8. I might just order a new correct flex plate just to be safe. Thanks for the heads up.

i really want to say the aode-w flex plate will work . it came off a 5.0 after all. if you do have both compare them well. i usually find it stamped on the plate but many times i have needed to scrub them clean with brillo pad or scotch brite to find it. c6 and e4od are usually the same part and say so on the plate. i recently built an 86 with a 5.8 ho mildly modified but i matched it with an aode-w. it felt rather close to me so i made a 3/16 shim to space the trans back. after the trans was torqued in place i was able to comfortably move the torque converter up to the flexplate with the mounting nuts.

[Rembrant]

i really want to say the aode-w flex plate will work . it came off a 5.0 after all. if you do have both compare them well.

The flex plate that came with the engine is for an E4OD. I had assumed they were the same, but I just looked on RockAuto and of the two brands listed on there, they both show different flex plates...one for the 4R70W and 4R75W, and a different plate for the E4OD and C6. Very good to know. Thanks for the heads up in this thread.

 

[mat in tn]

i really want to say the aode-w flex plate will work . it came off a 5.0 after all. if you do have both compare them well.

The flex plate that came with the engine is for an E4OD. I had assumed they were the same, but I just looked on RockAuto and of the two brands listed on there, they both show different flex plates...one for the 4R70W and 4R75W, and a different plate for the E4OD and C6. Very good to know. Thanks for the heads up in this thread.

glad to see that you got another opinion. i definitely want to stress the importance of doing just that. with so many possibilities to make a mistake lets just try to help each other out . looking forward to your progress

[Rembrant]

i really want to say the aode-w flex plate will work . it came off a 5.0 after all. if you do have both compare them well.

The flex plate that came with the engine is for an E4OD. I had assumed they were the same, but I just looked on RockAuto and of the two brands listed on there, they both show different flex plates...one for the 4R70W and 4R75W, and a different plate for the E4OD and C6. Very good to know. Thanks for the heads up in this thread.

I'm back digging into transmissions again...and Merry Christmas guys!

As mentioned earlier, what I ended up buying was a 4R70W out of a 1996 F150 2wd. I guess there are some that still called it the AOD-E when they were bolted to an old pushrod SBF, but whatever...they're mostly the same thing anyway, just that the 4R70W has a little different gearing.

The trans supposedly has about 80k miles on it, and it came out of a running and driving truck.

What should I do to this trans before installing it? I haven't worked on an auto trans since back in the 90's (old 700R4 Chevy stuff...). The slip yoke or output shaft seal is a no brainer, I'll replace that of course.

Buy a pan gasket a filter?

I assume there is input seal behind the torque converter?

Should I take it to a trans shop, or just install some new seals and go?

What do you guys recommend?

Any input is appreciated.

[mat in tn]

I'm back digging into transmissions again...and Merry Christmas guys!

As mentioned earlier, what I ended up buying was a 4R70W out of a 1996 F150 2wd. I guess there are some that still called it the AOD-E when they were bolted to an old pushrod SBF, but whatever...they're mostly the same thing anyway, just that the 4R70W has a little different gearing.

The trans supposedly has about 80k miles on it, and it came out of a running and driving truck.

What should I do to this trans before installing it? I haven't worked on an auto trans since back in the 90's (old 700R4 Chevy stuff...). The slip yoke or output shaft seal is a no brainer, I'll replace that of course.

Buy a pan gasket a filter?

I assume there is input seal behind the torque converter?

Should I take it to a trans shop, or just install some new seals and go?

What do you guys recommend?

Any input is appreciated.

if it has low mileage and the pan is not leaking and looks to be original ,i would say leave it alone and flush it after it has run after a good warm up. both input and output seals are a no brainer and they are already disturbed at this point. what controller are you intending to use?

[Jacob84]

if it has low mileage and the pan is not leaking and looks to be original ,i would say leave it alone and flush it after it has run after a good warm up. both input and output seals are a no brainer and they are already disturbed at this point. what controller are you intending to use?

X2 and Merry Christmas!

When we swap in a used unit at work we do the seals if needed and gasket if it’s not reusable. I believe the late AODEs should have a reusable one, might say on the pan. I wouldn’t bother flushing the trans. A used trans cooler? Flush that or replace with new. Replace the filter. I’d also bust the old filter open and see what’s inside (cover it with a rag and hit it with a hammer, it will be messy). That pan can look great but the filter can tell a different story. Look for metal shavings and chunks of clutch material. I don’t think you’ll find any but it’ll give you some peace of mind. A little is okay, a lot is not. Hope it goes well!