Frozen ‘81 351W

[huddywayne]

Quick checks:

• Fuel Pump Bolts: vertical is an M-Block, meaning 351M or 400, and horizontal means Windsor

• Valve Cover Bolts: 8-bolts means M-Block. Windsors have 6 bolts.

Gary, after checking, it is in fact the original 351M.

Also - soaked the cylinders again last night in ATF, got a larger breaker bar, and after going back/forth on the crank bolt, I actually loosened the crank bolt! Had to tighten it again and start over.

I've kept the belts on the water pump/alternator to use as visual indicators for movement. They are not on there tight, so not creating any resistance. I am starting to see some flexing in the belts, but it is very minimal. No real rotation of the crank yet.

Will try again this evening and report back.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, after checking, it is in fact the original 351M.

Also - soaked the cylinders again last night in ATF, got a larger breaker bar, and after going back/forth on the crank bolt, I actually loosened the crank bolt! Had to tighten it again and start over.

I've kept the belts on the water pump/alternator to use as visual indicators for movement. They are not on there tight, so not creating any resistance. I am starting to see some flexing in the belts, but it is very minimal. No real rotation of the crank yet.

Will try again this evening and report back.

The 351M in original guise was not a very powerful motor. I had an '82 w/a 351W that had a lot more oomph than Dad's did. But I bought Rusty, that's now up for sale by Clay, and discovered what a well-built 351M could be. Night and day difference.

But I also discovered that Rusty's engine had been built at a time when you could get decent pistons for the 351M. That is no longer the case as all you can get are ones that'll put you at 8:1 compression. So while you'll gain power by installing a straight-up timing chain, you'll not gain due to compression.

The better solution, should you have to rebuild it, is to find a 400 or at least the crank from a 400. They bolt right in and you can find a wide range of 400 pistons from Tim Meyer so you can get the compression ratio you want.

Anyway, hope you can get it to break loose w/o breaking a ring. So just keep working on it.

[rcarlisle]

Hey, welcome. My only suggestion at this point is to keep trying. Hopefully it will break loose? They ALWAYS do on those revival vids, right? If it would turn backwards but not forward, that would indicate something physically stopping it inside the bores. LIke a valve jammed or something. I don't know how long to keep trying.

Do you have a borescope or know someone that does? I don't so no surprise if you don't. But Harbor Freight has one listed for $75. You could take a look down in the cylinders? I assume you have all the plugs out so you're not trying to turn against compression as well?

Good luck and be sure to keep us in the know.

 

[huddywayne]

Hey, welcome. My only suggestion at this point is to keep trying. Hopefully it will break loose? They ALWAYS do on those revival vids, right? If it would turn backwards but not forward, that would indicate something physically stopping it inside the bores. LIke a valve jammed or something. I don't know how long to keep trying.

Do you have a borescope or know someone that does? I don't so no surprise if you don't. But Harbor Freight has one listed for $75. You could take a look down in the cylinders? I assume you have all the plugs out so you're not trying to turn against compression as well?

Good luck and be sure to keep us in the know.

Thanks for your insight. I don't have a borescope but will look into one. I have removed all belts and spark plugs to reduce the amount of force working against me.

I am on week 3 of letting the cylinders soak in ATF. I have also torqued the crank bolt as far as it will go without shearing (my estimate).

My last step before opening the top end of the engine is to have a buddy join me - one person applying constant force on the crank bolt, with the other applying force on the flywheel using a pry bar.

Any movement will be deemed a success at this point.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for your insight. I don't have a borescope but will look into one. I have removed all belts and spark plugs to reduce the amount of force working against me.

I am on week 3 of letting the cylinders soak in ATF. I have also torqued the crank bolt as far as it will go without shearing (my estimate).

My last step before opening the top end of the engine is to have a buddy join me - one person applying constant force on the crank bolt, with the other applying force on the flywheel using a pry bar.

Any movement will be deemed a success at this point.

I hope you get it to break loose with that plan. But another member rolled the truck and popped the clutch to break it loose. I'm not recommending that, but it might be a last resort/hail Mary move.

[huddywayne]

I hope you get it to break loose with that plan. But another member rolled the truck and popped the clutch to break it loose. I'm not recommending that, but it might be a last resort/hail Mary move.

Thanks Gary. Mine is an auto, so this was never an option, unfortunately.

This truck is a family heirloom, so just as the good Lord would have it, right when my brother stopped by this afternoon, I bumped the starter again and the old 351 turned over for the first time! We are at 4 weeks exactly of ATF soaking, in conjunction with breaker bar force applied to the crank bolt every 2-3 days. The photo I've attached shows the crud that blew out of the rear driver's side cylinder, which is the one I had identified as the worst off.

Spent a few hours this afternoon changing the oil (drained about 1 cup of rain water from the pan), replacing plugs, and buttoning everything up. Was able to get the truck running on carb cleaner, but the carburetor butterfly valve is rusted shut. Next step will be to get a rebuilt carb, check fuel pump, and check compression. Then it's back to the ranch we go!

 

[Gary Lewis]

I hope you get it to break loose with that plan. But another member rolled the truck and popped the clutch to break it loose. I'm not recommending that, but it might be a last resort/hail Mary move.

Thanks Gary. Mine is an auto, so this was never an option, unfortunately.

This truck is a family heirloom, so just as the good Lord would have it, right when my brother stopped by this afternoon, I bumped the starter again and the old 351 turned over for the first time! We are at 4 weeks exactly of ATF soaking, in conjunction with breaker bar force applied to the crank bolt every 2-3 days. The photo I've attached shows the crud that blew out of the rear driver's side cylinder, which is the one I had identified as the worst off.

Spent a few hours this afternoon changing the oil (drained about 1 cup of rain water from the pan), replacing plugs, and buttoning everything up. Was able to get the truck running on carb cleaner, but the carburetor butterfly valve is rusted shut. Next step will be to get a rebuilt carb, check fuel pump, and check compression. Then it's back to the ranch we go!

Congratulations!!! Glad you not only got it to turn over, but got it started!

I think you are on the final lap and will get it going well soon. Keep us posted.

[grumpin]

I hope you get it to break loose with that plan. But another member rolled the truck and popped the clutch to break it loose. I'm not recommending that, but it might be a last resort/hail Mary move.

Thanks Gary. Mine is an auto, so this was never an option, unfortunately.

This truck is a family heirloom, so just as the good Lord would have it, right when my brother stopped by this afternoon, I bumped the starter again and the old 351 turned over for the first time! We are at 4 weeks exactly of ATF soaking, in conjunction with breaker bar force applied to the crank bolt every 2-3 days. The photo I've attached shows the crud that blew out of the rear driver's side cylinder, which is the one I had identified as the worst off.

Spent a few hours this afternoon changing the oil (drained about 1 cup of rain water from the pan), replacing plugs, and buttoning everything up. Was able to get the truck running on carb cleaner, but the carburetor butterfly valve is rusted shut. Next step will be to get a rebuilt carb, check fuel pump, and check compression. Then it's back to the ranch we go!

Cool! Glad it broke free.