Fuel Line Fitting: Hairpin or Duck Bill Clip? (’85 F-150 EFI 5l dual tanks)

[Nemesis F150]

It isn't necessary to heat the end of the tubing to insert the barb. It just helps get the things started. But there is no clamp needed, it won't leak.

And yes, the lines are stiff. Hence the heat to soften them a bit. Again, it isn't needed but just helpful.

If the line is rolled up tightly I think I'd unroll it a day or so before trying to install it. And it doesn't stretch, so don't cut it too short.

As for Amazon's shipping, I've seen the same thing and I've given up on trying to help them. I think they could save a ton of money and a lot of fuel if they would sort their logistics out.

Thanks for the good awners, Gary.

It isn't necessary to heat the end of the tubing to insert the barb. It just helps get the things started. But there is no clamp needed, it won't leak.

Probably should have asked the question before getting this far, but I have to say, I'm surprised. And this is even something that is carrying fuel under pressure!

And yes, the lines are stiff. Hence the heat to soften them a bit. Again, it isn't needed but just helpful.

Clamped both lines to the porch this morning so they were able to bask in 85º sunlight most of the day. The tight rolls seemed to have mellowed out into a more-or-less straight line, straight enough for the run down the left frame channel at least.

The yellow cardboard Dorman 5/16-inch line has the same indicator markings as the 3/8-inch line so hopefully, it is less likely to be counterfeit version.

As for Amazon's shipping, I've seen the same thing and I've given up on trying to help them. I think they could save a ton of money and a lot of fuel if they would sort their logistics out.

Good to read that I'm not alone on this.

One thing I read yesterday was that Amazon is working on increasing their income from advertising. Their checkout pop-up-ads are everywhere. Unfortunately for the companies paying for their ads, they didn't make any money from me. Not only that, but my satisfaction with Amazon has plummeted.

Update Aug 6: The third (and final) Amazon package arrived ... driver put it in our mailbox instead of on the front porch (like the first two) so didn't think to look there. Have all the pieces now.

Tried to siphon the remaining fuel from the tank this afternoon and couldn't get the end of the hose into the fuel. Blew on the hose but couldn't hear or feel any sound of air bubbles. It is very difficult to get the siphon hose into the tank due to the small access hole that is nestled in the larger fill pipe.

NEW QUESTIONS:

(1) Should one apply some grease to the electrical connection for the Fuel Pump/Sender unit on the top of the tank when connecting the conductors to the new Pump/Sender? Due to the numerous contacts, some dielectric grease that might be good to use.

(2) Edit: Should any grease be put on the steel stubs that the connectors attach to?

(3) Pump/Sender gasket: Should anything be applied to the gasket surfaces, like, say a film of grease to allow the ring to tighten easier? Read an earlier post by someone that discovered theirs leaked so had to pull the tank again. (Not really excited about having the same experience.)

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the good awners, Gary.

It isn't necessary to heat the end of the tubing to insert the barb. It just helps get the things started. But there is no clamp needed, it won't leak.

Probably should have asked the question before getting this far, but I have to say, I'm surprised. And this is even something that is carrying fuel under pressure!

And yes, the lines are stiff. Hence the heat to soften them a bit. Again, it isn't needed but just helpful.

Clamped both lines to the porch this morning so they were able to bask in 85º sunlight most of the day. The tight rolls seemed to have mellowed out into a more-or-less straight line, straight enough for the run down the left frame channel at least.

The yellow cardboard Dorman 5/16-inch line has the same indicator markings as the 3/8-inch line so hopefully, it is less likely to be counterfeit version.

As for Amazon's shipping, I've seen the same thing and I've given up on trying to help them. I think they could save a ton of money and a lot of fuel if they would sort their logistics out.

Good to read that I'm not alone on this.

One thing I read yesterday was that Amazon is working on increasing their income from advertising. Their checkout pop-up-ads are everywhere. Unfortunately for the companies paying for their ads, they didn't make any money from me. Not only that, but my satisfaction with Amazon has plummeted.

Update Aug 6: The third (and final) Amazon package arrived ... driver put it in our mailbox instead of on the front porch (like the first two) so didn't think to look there. Have all the pieces now.

Tried to siphon the remaining fuel from the tank this afternoon and couldn't get the end of the hose into the fuel. Blew on the hose but couldn't hear or feel any sound of air bubbles. It is very difficult to get the siphon hose into the tank due to the small access hole that is nestled in the larger fill pipe.

NEW QUESTIONS:

(1) Should one apply some grease to the electrical connection for the Fuel Pump/Sender unit on the top of the tank when connecting the conductors to the new Pump/Sender? Due to the numerous contacts, some dielectric grease that might be good to use.

(2) Edit: Should any grease be put on the steel stubs that the connectors attach to?

(3) Pump/Sender gasket: Should anything be applied to the gasket surfaces, like, say a film of grease to allow the ring to tighten easier? Read an earlier post by someone that discovered theirs leaked so had to pull the tank again. (Not really excited about having the same experience.)

I think I would use some dielectric grease on the connector. And I might put just a bit of grease on the o-ring on the tank as well as the fitting that the fuel connectors slide onto.

And I'm glad you have all the parts now. Time to make a fuel system! And remember, Nylon doesn't stretch very well.

[Nemesis F150]

I think I would use some dielectric grease on the connector. And I might put just a bit of grease on the o-ring on the tank as well as the fitting that the fuel connectors slide onto.

Sounds like a good plan.

And I'm glad you have all the parts now. Time to make a fuel system! And remember, Nylon doesn't stretch very well.

Yes, Yes, & Yes!

The main install issue to avoid is a line that is, say, an inch too short. Thinking about how the line runs between the VALVE and the Rear Tank, and looking at the pictures where the line curves a lot at the VALVE 9189 Fuel Switch Unit, a thought I have is to connect the two lines to the VALVE 9189 (fuel switching unit} First, run both lines along the rail with installation under the clips along the way, then where they curve away from the rail to make the short couple-feet run to the Fuel Pump/Sender unit, match the old line alongside the pair from the last clip (markings will be visible on the old lines), then cut the new lines to the same length as the old, then install the Dorman fittings (making sure the new lines can curve the same as the old ones). Use the heat gun at this point for the Dorman installs as they would be in a better ventilated area and significantly distant from any fuel vapors.

Both lines will be 3/8" as the Dorman L-angle connectors for the return line are 5/16 steel to 3/8 Nylon. The new 3/8-inch Nylon is 25-feet long so that should surely be enough for the Rear Tank parallel runs. I'll mark the return line with blue 3M tape to ensure it doesn't get mis-located at installation. Don't think I have any colored heat-shrink (might have some red somewhere).

QUESTION: If the fuel selector on the dash is set to the rear tank, is all the return fuel SUPPOSED to go to the rear tank? The Mid-Tank (to be replaced once the Rear is up and running) has old fuel and shouldn't be cross-connected.

Question #2: When the dash fuel selector is moved from one tank to the other, does the VALVE make any kind of click noise?

Question #3: Can, or is it a good idea, to check the new fuel pump for operation before installation?

 

[Gary Lewis]

I think I would use some dielectric grease on the connector. And I might put just a bit of grease on the o-ring on the tank as well as the fitting that the fuel connectors slide onto.

Sounds like a good plan.

And I'm glad you have all the parts now. Time to make a fuel system! And remember, Nylon doesn't stretch very well.

Yes, Yes, & Yes!

The main install issue to avoid is a line that is, say, an inch too short. Thinking about how the line runs between the VALVE and the Rear Tank, and looking at the pictures where the line curves a lot at the VALVE 9189 Fuel Switch Unit, a thought I have is to connect the two lines to the VALVE 9189 (fuel switching unit} First, run both lines along the rail with installation under the clips along the way, then where they curve away from the rail to make the short couple-feet run to the Fuel Pump/Sender unit, match the old line alongside the pair from the last clip (markings will be visible on the old lines), then cut the new lines to the same length as the old, then install the Dorman fittings (making sure the new lines can curve the same as the old ones). Use the heat gun at this point for the Dorman installs as they would be in a better ventilated area and significantly distant from any fuel vapors.

Both lines will be 3/8" as the Dorman L-angle connectors for the return line are 5/16 steel to 3/8 Nylon. The new 3/8-inch Nylon is 25-feet long so that should surely be enough for the Rear Tank parallel runs. I'll mark the return line with blue 3M tape to ensure it doesn't get mis-located at installation. Don't think I have any colored heat-shrink (might have some red somewhere).

QUESTION: If the fuel selector on the dash is set to the rear tank, is all the return fuel SUPPOSED to go to the rear tank? The Mid-Tank (to be replaced once the Rear is up and running) has old fuel and shouldn't be cross-connected.

Question #2: When the dash fuel selector is moved from one tank to the other, does the VALVE make any kind of click noise?

Question #3: Can, or is it a good idea, to check the new fuel pump for operation before installation?

I think you have a good plan.

On the questions:

QUESTION: If the fuel selector on the dash is set to the rear tank, is all the return fuel SUPPOSED to go to the rear tank? The Mid-Tank (to be replaced once the Rear is up and running) has old fuel and shouldn't be cross-connected. Yes, all of the return should go to the tank from which fuel is being supplied. Assuming the valve is working correctly.

Question #2: When the dash fuel selector is moved from one tank to the other, does the VALVE make any kind of click noise? Your valve has a motor in it, as shown in the diagram below, and I think you should be able to feel or hear it move. But those valves are known to fail such that they'll pull from one tank and return to both. You might want to put some low-pressure air to it and see that it is switching properly.

Question #3: Can, or is it a good idea, to check the new fuel pump for operation before installation? I've not done that as I don't want to spin the pump w/o some liquid in it for lubrication. But I didn't like the idea of having water in the pump, and I don't want to play with gasoline and electricity. So I didn't.

[85lebaront2]

I think you have a good plan.

On the questions:

QUESTION: If the fuel selector on the dash is set to the rear tank, is all the return fuel SUPPOSED to go to the rear tank? The Mid-Tank (to be replaced once the Rear is up and running) has old fuel and shouldn't be cross-connected. Yes, all of the return should go to the tank from which fuel is being supplied. Assuming the valve is working correctly.

Question #2: When the dash fuel selector is moved from one tank to the other, does the VALVE make any kind of click noise? Your valve has a motor in it, as shown in the diagram below, and I think you should be able to feel or hear it move. But those valves are known to fail such that they'll pull from one tank and return to both. You might want to put some low-pressure air to it and see that it is switching properly.

Question #3: Can, or is it a good idea, to check the new fuel pump for operation before installation? I've not done that as I don't want to spin the pump w/o some liquid in it for lubrication. But I didn't like the idea of having water in the pump, and I don't want to play with gasoline and electricity. So I didn't.

Gary, on item #3, Varsol can be used for testing, it is thin enough but not as volatile nor flammable as gasoline.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, on item #3, Varsol can be used for testing, it is thin enough but not as volatile nor flammable as gasoline.

Thanks, Bill. Wasn't aware of that.

[Nemesis F150]

Gary, on item #3, Varsol can be used for testing, it is thin enough but not as volatile nor flammable as gasoline.

[delayed reply due to new 'issues' that cropped up and had to be dealt with. It's all about life and priorities]

Gary - Thank you very much for the answers (they really help), AND the great diagram. Printed the diagram full-screen and this will help a lot.

Bill -

Gary, on item #3, Varsol can be used for testing, it is thin enough but not as volatile nor flammable as gasoline.

Varsol seems like it would be very helpful for dong the pump test.

I called around to Home Depot (closest), Lowes, paint stores and hardware stores, but unfortunately nobody carries it.

On-line the description says it can also be used for cleaning the engine. Would have been handy to use the "after the test" liquid for engine and under-the-hood cleaning.

UPDATE: After two days in the summer sun while clamped along the porch railing, the two lines are quite straight now. Took the lines off and, thanks to the long-wide bed, put stakes in the stake holes and clamped the lines to them and the rear view mirror so they are ready to use without having to re-straighten them again. Had to loop the 25-foot line around the tailgate stake.

THOUGHT (Uh-oh): Before taking everything apart (Note: have not been able to get the last several gallons of fuel out of the Rear Tank yet) would it be worthwhile to check if the Tank Switching Unit (aka VALVE) makes a noise? Or, if one can hear if the tank Pump/Sender makes a noise? The latter might be difficult to hear since it would still have some gas around it to muffle the sound. Downside: If anything does work it would no doubt pressurize the line.

[Gary Lewis]

[delayed reply due to new 'issues' that cropped up and had to be dealt with. It's all about life and priorities]

Gary - Thank you very much for the answers (they really help), AND the great diagram. Printed the diagram full-screen and this will help a lot.

Bill -

Gary, on item #3, Varsol can be used for testing, it is thin enough but not as volatile nor flammable as gasoline.

Varsol seems like it would be very helpful for dong the pump test.

I called around to Home Depot (closest), Lowes, paint stores and hardware stores, but unfortunately nobody carries it.

On-line the description says it can also be used for cleaning the engine. Would have been handy to use the "after the test" liquid for engine and under-the-hood cleaning.

UPDATE: After two days in the summer sun while clamped along the porch railing, the two lines are quite straight now. Took the lines off and, thanks to the long-wide bed, put stakes in the stake holes and clamped the lines to them and the rear view mirror so they are ready to use without having to re-straighten them again. Had to loop the 25-foot line around the tailgate stake.

THOUGHT (Uh-oh): Before taking everything apart (Note: have not been able to get the last several gallons of fuel out of the Rear Tank yet) would it be worthwhile to check if the Tank Switching Unit (aka VALVE) makes a noise? Or, if one can hear if the tank Pump/Sender makes a noise? The latter might be difficult to hear since it would still have some gas around it to muffle the sound. Downside: If anything does work it would no doubt pressurize the line.

I would use low-pressure air to test the valve. But then I have a compressed-air system and a regulator so I can dial the pressure down to less than 10 psi if I want. In this case I'd use 40 psi air and see if the valve switches both supply and return as it should.

[Nemesis F150]

I would use low-pressure air to test the valve. But then I have a compressed-air system and a regulator so I can dial the pressure down to less than 10 psi if I want. In this case I'd use 40 psi air and see if the valve switches both supply and return as it should.

Limited air pressure options available. Had a good write-up with five options but opted out of posting them due to being far-fetched and grasping at straws. Air compressor option isn't available. Think the best option available is to just listen for a motor noise; if there is one then "hope" it will work; if totally silent then "Plan B" would be to check the electrical connection for voltage.

If no voltage, then troubleshoot conductors upstream.

If voltage but no noise, remove Fuel Line Selector VALVE and bench test. If non-functional, then buy new Valve.

QUESTIONS: If all the fuel lines (6 of them) are disconnected in order to remove VALVE, wouldn't fuel run out from the lines? Siphon? Both the Mid-Tank and the Rear Tank is higher than the VALVE.

Or, if the fuel pumps are not operating, then would only the gas in the lines drain out? The new Fuel Pump/Sender units have a joker valve (Plumbing speak) that would prevent siphoning (if fully functional).

[Gary Lewis]

Limited air pressure options available. Had a good write-up with five options but opted out of posting them due to being far-fetched and grasping at straws. Air compressor option isn't available. Think the best option available is to just listen for a motor noise; if there is one then "hope" it will work; if totally silent then "Plan B" would be to check the electrical connection for voltage.

If no voltage, then troubleshoot conductors upstream.

If voltage but no noise, remove Fuel Line Selector VALVE and bench test. If non-functional, then buy new Valve.

QUESTIONS: If all the fuel lines (6 of them) are disconnected in order to remove VALVE, wouldn't fuel run out from the lines? Siphon? Both the Mid-Tank and the Rear Tank is higher than the VALVE.

Or, if the fuel pumps are not operating, then would only the gas in the lines drain out? The new Fuel Pump/Sender units have a joker valve (Plumbing speak) that would prevent siphoning (if fully functional).

I hope you can feel it run.

And yes, fuel can run out. That has been a problem for me before. In one case I made a blank fitting by soldering it closed and put that in the supply line to stop the leak.