Fuel Line Fitting: Hairpin or Duck Bill Clip? (’85 F-150 EFI 5l dual tanks)

[Nemesis F150]

Thanks John.

The wind and rain weren't what I think of as a hurricane. But it was quite a storm. And unfortunately we do have a full moon effecting tides.

Honestly, I have been trying to stay dry on high ground and haven't seen the marina since Saturday afternoon.

I had thought Airtex and Wells were one in the same?

It's hard for me to keep up with all the buyouts and M&A by equity funds in this century.

"What's in a name?" It's pretty meaningless to me these days, as every iconic brand has been gutted and shuffled around.

So, unfortunately I don't feel I can speak to quality for anything anymore....

Others might have better, or more current advice.

Isn’t that a crock? Can’t trust names you used to trust! Seems it’s a gamble anymore. Irks me that they can’t rebuild a window motor and have it go the right direction when plugged in.

Found a phone number for Spectra: +1 (888) 910-8888, called them and talked to the Tech Support Dept x 2, and got the part numbers for the tanks and the pump/sender assemblies:

Mid Tank: F6BSB, pump/sender: SP2148H

Aft Axle: F1D, pump/sender: SP383H

Already ordered the SP2148H.

[Edit August 24: All these items ordered; the pump/senders are not cheap. Now onward to other parts]

[Edit #2, August 27:

The new aft tank and the midship tank pump/sender unit arrived this morning. Yea! the midship tank and the aft tank pump/sender is scheduled to arrive on Monday. Things are looking up …

or, at least they were.

Now, discovered a problem I don’t need.

Later today, while doing a quantity takeoff for the 3/8 and 5/16 Nylon tube connectors I had a not-so-nice discovery. Hadn't really looked at the diagrams for the fuel lines close enough, and while doing so, discovered this little part between the aft tank and the fuel filter, P/N 9189.

Hmmmm... this is NOT a fuel tube connector part number; it's a Fuel Tank Selector! Got on the creeper, slid under the rig and found it, partially hidden, nestled between the left-side rail and the midship tank. Haden’t noticed it before because of looking the wrong direction and being fixated on the Fuel Reservoir/Filter.

Adding insult to injury, since it is on the driver's side which, in the garage, is adjacent to the storage shelves (so there is more room on the right side), that means the only access is from the passenger side. Its now time to re-think this whole project, so back to square one.

So, What are the options now?

Will have to think this over.

[Nemesis F150]

Found a phone number for Spectra: +1 (888) 910-8888, called them and talked to the Tech Support Dept x 2, and got the part numbers for the tanks and the pump/sender assemblies:

Mid Tank: F6BSB, pump/sender: SP2148H

Aft Axle: F1D, pump/sender: SP383H

Already ordered the SP2148H.

[Edit August 24: All these items ordered; the pump/senders are not cheap. Now onward to other parts]

[Edit #2, August 27:

The new aft tank and the midship tank pump/sender unit arrived this morning. Yea! the midship tank and the aft tank pump/sender is scheduled to arrive on Monday. Things are looking up …

or, at least they were.

Now, discovered a problem I don’t need.

Later today, while doing a quantity takeoff for the 3/8 and 5/16 Nylon tube connectors I had a not-so-nice discovery. Hadn't really looked at the diagrams for the fuel lines close enough, and while doing so, discovered this little part between the aft tank and the fuel filter, P/N 9189.

Hmmmm... this is NOT a fuel tube connector part number; it's a Fuel Tank Selector! Got on the creeper, slid under the rig and found it, partially hidden, nestled between the left-side rail and the midship tank. Haden’t noticed it before because of looking the wrong direction and being fixated on the Fuel Reservoir/Filter.

Adding insult to injury, since it is on the driver's side which, in the garage, is adjacent to the storage shelves (so there is more room on the right side), that means the only access is from the passenger side. Its now time to re-think this whole project, so back to square one.

So, What are the options now?

Will have to think this over.

In my last post I wrote "Will have to think this over.". That was almost a year ago!

What happened in the meantime? Had to get a lot of outside work done on the house which was a bigger project than I thought it would be. By then, the weather had deteriorated enough that the mechanical work was not weather friendly.

Spring came, April and May were the two wettest months on record, along with cold temperatures. June was boat haulout for bottom paint and then the weather started to improve, but then I had an accident and recovery will take at least a couple months. However, I have found a mechanic that is willing to work with me (not for free) but I have to get some parts.

Parts update: I have both rear and saddle tanks (Spectra) along with their respective Fuel Pump/Sender units, so that much is accomplished.

Do need to get (1) Fuel lines, (2) Dorman Fuel line fittings, (3) Dorman Fuel Line Repair Tool, (4) Heat Shrink for color-coding the lines, (5) and fuel line covers, if need, to replace existing. (6) May need insulation like Gary used in his project if the lines go near the exhaust.

Dorman Fuel Line Repair Tool: Last year the cost for the tool which included an assortment of tool parts, cost $91.72 (via Amazon w/ free freight); when I checked the price using the link today, the cost was $69.96, and that was a surprise as everything else has increased in price. This has just been ordered.

Fuel Line Fittings: I'll do another post about the Fuel Line Fittings as the Shop/Ford Diagram indicates "straight-in" fittings to the fuel filter Reservoir, as opposed to my fuel filter Reservoir that has all angle fittings. I'll explain in another post.

[Gary Lewis]

In my last post I wrote "Will have to think this over.". That was almost a year ago!

What happened in the meantime? Had to get a lot of outside work done on the house which was a bigger project than I thought it would be. By then, the weather had deteriorated enough that the mechanical work was not weather friendly.

Spring came, April and May were the two wettest months on record, along with cold temperatures. June was boat haulout for bottom paint and then the weather started to improve, but then I had an accident and recovery will take at least a couple months. However, I have found a mechanic that is willing to work with me (not for free) but I have to get some parts.

Parts update: I have both rear and saddle tanks (Spectra) along with their respective Fuel Pump/Sender units, so that much is accomplished.

Do need to get (1) Fuel lines, (2) Dorman Fuel line fittings, (3) Dorman Fuel Line Repair Tool, (4) Heat Shrink for color-coding the lines, (5) and fuel line covers, if need, to replace existing. (6) May need insulation like Gary used in his project if the lines go near the exhaust.

Dorman Fuel Line Repair Tool: Last year the cost for the tool which included an assortment of tool parts, cost $91.72 (via Amazon w/ free freight); when I checked the price using the link today, the cost was $69.96, and that was a surprise as everything else has increased in price. This has just been ordered.

Fuel Line Fittings: I'll do another post about the Fuel Line Fittings as the Shop/Ford Diagram indicates "straight-in" fittings to the fuel filter Reservoir, as opposed to my fuel filter Reservoir that has all angle fittings. I'll explain in another post.

Life has a way of getting between us and our projects. So it isn't surprising that it has taken a while for you to get to this point. But I'm sorry to see that you had an accident along the way, and hope you are healing quickly and nicely.

As for the tool's price coming down, that is wonderful! That tool works well, but there is a bit of a learning curve. And a little bit of heat on the end of the Nylon line makes it go a bit easier.

And heat shrink is a good idea for color coding the lines. I used the same size for both supply and return and that made it difficult to tell which was which at times.

But angled vs straight fittings is surprising. I'm anxious to see what you have found.

[Nemesis F150]

Life has a way of getting between us and our projects. ... and hope you are healing quickly and nicely.

Amen. And, come tomorrow, looking at switching doctors and working with a genuine physical therapist. Current doctor is a good one; however, his PA (physician assistant) is not a physical therapist. In consultation with a RN (registered nurse), she said that the first appointment with a PT (physical therapist) should be with a "Doctor of Physical Therapy" (maybe optional depending on severity?, I don't know) because they do the, can't think of the term, analysis (?) of what is needed. From that point, it can be decided if a physical therapist can take over. In this case, the doctor, who is a surgeon, didn't even see the patient because "he doesn't do surgery" on patients this old so had his PA-C (unlicensed PT) take over. Never went through this process before so it is all new. This is for info in case anyone else encounters something like this. Life is full of learning opportunities! Now, not to be sidetracked, off to "learning" about fuel lines!

As for the tool's price coming down, that is wonderful! That tool works well, but there is a bit of a learning curve. And a little bit of heat on the end of the Nylon line makes it go a bit easier.

Lower price is VERY unusual. Wonder if there were a lot of this tool made but auto manufacturers made a change in the type of fuel lines, or connections, and the older vehicles are being sent to the scrap heap so this type of tool isn't needed so much? Or, if the previous price included a larger package of accessories? The link of the picture from last time is EXACTLY the same as the one yesterday so that couldn't be it. However, it is very odd.

As for heating the tube end, I do remember now that this was mentioned this before. Thanks for the reminder ... I need all the reminders I can get. This is another "The devil is in the details" item. "And heat shrink is a good idea for color coding the lines." and ditto that.

I used the same size for both supply and return and that made it difficult to tell which was which at times.

Was there "something" about using a larger return line because of ... situations where there was more fuel that needed to be returned than what the 5/16" line could handle? Or something like that?

QUESTION: Along the route of the pair of lines (supply & return) there are "supports". How are these typically attached to the frame rail? Bolts, screws? And, is one side of the "bracket" smaller than the other to make up for the difference in the line size?

[Nemesis F150]

Life has a way of getting between us and our projects. ... and hope you are healing quickly and nicely.

Amen. And, come tomorrow, looking at switching doctors and working with a genuine physical therapist. Current doctor is a good one; however, his PA (physician assistant) is not a physical therapist. In consultation with a RN (registered nurse), she said that the first appointment with a PT (physical therapist) should be with a "Doctor of Physical Therapy" (maybe optional depending on severity?, I don't know) because they do the, can't think of the term, analysis (?) of what is needed. From that point, it can be decided if a physical therapist can take over. In this case, the doctor, who is a surgeon, didn't even see the patient because "he doesn't do surgery" on patients this old so had his PA-C (unlicensed PT) take over. Never went through this process before so it is all new. This is for info in case anyone else encounters something like this. Life is full of learning opportunities! Now, not to be sidetracked, off to "learning" about fuel lines!

As for the tool's price coming down, that is wonderful! That tool works well, but there is a bit of a learning curve. And a little bit of heat on the end of the Nylon line makes it go a bit easier.

Lower price is VERY unusual. Wonder if there were a lot of this tool made but auto manufacturers made a change in the type of fuel lines, or connections, and the older vehicles are being sent to the scrap heap so this type of tool isn't needed so much? Or, if the previous price included a larger package of accessories? The link of the picture from last time is EXACTLY the same as the one yesterday so that couldn't be it. However, it is very odd.

As for heating the tube end, I do remember now that this was mentioned this before. Thanks for the reminder ... I need all the reminders I can get. This is another "The devil is in the details" item. "And heat shrink is a good idea for color coding the lines." and ditto that.

I used the same size for both supply and return and that made it difficult to tell which was which at times.

Was there "something" about using a larger return line because of ... situations where there was more fuel that needed to be returned than what the 5/16" line could handle? Or something like that?

QUESTION: Along the route of the pair of lines (supply & return) there are "supports". How are these typically attached to the frame rail? Bolts, screws? And, is one side of the "bracket" smaller than the other to make up for the difference in the line size?

Fuel line connectors, right angle or straight?

Reference: "FUEL LINES and RELATED PARTS, 1985 F 150/250 - 8 CYL. 302 (5 DL) - E.F.I.", drawing diagram P-18786.

The "(RESERVOIR)", as it is designated on the referenced drawing, has a screw-on fuel filter with a gasket. I've been calling this the "fuel filter" but since there are, or may be, more fuel filters, this can cause confusing. However, this is the item in the diagram.

Note: the fuel line connectors shown are all straight, while mine are all right-angle. For info, my installation does not have the 9J329 protective metal cover plate as this is on, if I remember, the 4WD version and my rig is a 2WD model.

Another item for discussion: Fuel Tank Selector [blue in diagram]

Hadn't noticed this before until seeing it in the drawing diagram. After seeing it on the diagram I'll have to look in that area on the frame rail. The diagram indicates it is almost right aft of the Reservoir but in reality it is probably a bit further than just aft, so more investigation is required on my part. [note to self: copy and save message before posting! Don't ask me why I do it this way!]

The picture is of my Reservoir (filter) and the diagram is of the above Reference:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Fuel line connectors, right angle or straight?

Reference: "FUEL LINES and RELATED PARTS, 1985 F 150/250 - 8 CYL. 302 (5 DL) - E.F.I.", drawing diagram P-18786.

The "(RESERVOIR)", as it is designated on the referenced drawing, has a screw-on fuel filter with a gasket. I've been calling this the "fuel filter" but since there are, or may be, more fuel filters, this can cause confusing. However, this is the item in the diagram.

Note: the fuel line connectors shown are all straight, while mine are all right-angle. For info, my installation does not have the 9J329 protective metal cover plate as this is on, if I remember, the 4WD version and my rig is a 2WD model.

Another item for discussion: Fuel Tank Selector [blue in diagram]

Hadn't noticed this before until seeing it in the drawing diagram. After seeing it on the diagram I'll have to look in that area on the frame rail. The diagram indicates it is almost right aft of the Reservoir but in reality it is probably a bit further than just aft, so more investigation is required on my part. [note to self: copy and save message before posting! Don't ask me why I do it this way!]

The picture is of my Reservoir (filter) and the diagram is of the above Reference:

John - I don't remember Big Blue having any brackets for the fuel lines. Maybe I'm just not remembering correctly, but ...

As for the size of the return, I went with a larger return as I could get a roll of the line that would do both supply and return. Then I found fittings that fit that size line and both sizes of fittings on the truck.

On your setup, if you have room I'd go straight in rather than 90 degrees. What you have appears to put pressure on the line and I'd rather not have that. But you'll have to have a bit of the line either side free to move so you can disconnect easily.

And I hope the new doctor and the therapist do what you need.

[Nemesis F150]

On your setup, if you have room I'd go straight in rather than 90 degrees. What you have appears to put pressure on the line and I'd rather not have that. But you'll have to have a bit of the line either side free to move so you can disconnect easily.

Here is a picture of the Reservoir (fuel filter) and the tank switch unit.

Unfortunately, the picture is "backwards" from the file picture and I couldn't get it to look like the file picture. Can not figure out how to undo this misrepresented picture so one will hopefully figure it out.

In this posted picture the view is of the inside left (driver side) rail. The Reservoir is shown upside down and the Midship fuel tank is shown to the right. Near the tank is the black tank switch unit that can be identified because it has little white "doohickies".

Just maybe, the short pieces of tube have right-angle connectors on them in order to install them easier in the short space? Or, maybe the assembly line decided to make a slight change in item locations? Just grasping at straws here.

 

[Gary Lewis]

On your setup, if you have room I'd go straight in rather than 90 degrees. What you have appears to put pressure on the line and I'd rather not have that. But you'll have to have a bit of the line either side free to move so you can disconnect easily.

Here is a picture of the Reservoir (fuel filter) and the tank switch unit.

Unfortunately, the picture is "backwards" from the file picture and I couldn't get it to look like the file picture. Can not figure out how to undo this misrepresented picture so one will hopefully figure it out.

In this posted picture the view is of the inside left (driver side) rail. The Reservoir is shown upside down and the Midship fuel tank is shown to the right. Near the tank is the black tank switch unit that can be identified because it has little white "doohickies".

Just maybe, the short pieces of tube have right-angle connectors on them in order to install them easier in the short space? Or, maybe the assembly line decided to make a slight change in item locations? Just grasping at straws here.

Here's your pic the right way 'round. I just rotated it in Paint. And the issue is that when you take a pic the orientation of the camera is encoded in the metadata of the file. Smart devices, like your phone, re-orient the pic when you open the file.

This forum is not smart and doesn't bother to read the metadata. So you have two choices: First, always take the pic with the camera held right-side up, which on my iPhone X is with the On/Off switch up. Or, do as I do and edit my pics to rotate them the way I want them.

Anyway, as close as the unit to the back is I think I would use 90 degree connectors like the factory did. It would be a pain to get the stiff Nylon line to give on such short sections like that.

[Nemesis F150]

Here's your pic the right way 'round. I just rotated it in Paint. And the issue is that when you take a pic the orientation of the camera is encoded in the metadata of the file. Smart devices, like your phone, re-orient the pic when you open the file.

This forum is not smart and doesn't bother to read the metadata. So you have two choices: First, always take the pic with the camera held right-side up, which on my iPhone X is with the On/Off switch up. Or, do as I do and edit my pics to rotate them the way I want them.

Anyway, as close as the unit to the back is I think I would use 90 degree connectors like the factory did. It would be a pain to get the stiff Nylon line to give on such short sections like that.

Ahh, another thing learned today:

Here's your pic the right way 'round. I just rotated it in Paint. And the issue is that when you take a pic the orientation of the camera is encoded in the metadata of the file. Smart devices, like your phone, re-orient the pic when you open the file.

Didn't have Paint, or at least Search didn't find it, BUT, decided to see what happens in Photos ... and it worked !

(made a Sample and Edited it:)

Anyway, as close as the unit to the back is I think I would use 90 degree connectors like the factory did. It would be a pain to get the stiff Nylon line to give on such short sections like that.

I concur.

More progress!

Next on the to-do list is a quantity take-off of connectors, or at least as close as one can get. The "Tube" wiring diagram isn't the sharpest in the world for figuring out connectors (and mine may be different as we just saw) so will give it my best guess and get a few extras. Really thinking of going 3/8" throughout but some (about half) of the connectors will have to be 5/16 > 3/8.

Onward....

[Gary Lewis]

Ahh, another thing learned today:

Here's your pic the right way 'round. I just rotated it in Paint. And the issue is that when you take a pic the orientation of the camera is encoded in the metadata of the file. Smart devices, like your phone, re-orient the pic when you open the file.

Didn't have Paint, or at least Search didn't find it, BUT, decided to see what happens in Photos ... and it worked !

(made a Sample and Edited it:)

Anyway, as close as the unit to the back is I think I would use 90 degree connectors like the factory did. It would be a pain to get the stiff Nylon line to give on such short sections like that.

I concur.

More progress!

Next on the to-do list is a quantity take-off of connectors, or at least as close as one can get. The "Tube" wiring diagram isn't the sharpest in the world for figuring out connectors (and mine may be different as we just saw) so will give it my best guess and get a few extras. Really thinking of going 3/8" throughout but some (about half) of the connectors will have to be 5/16 > 3/8.

Onward....

I think the 3/8" line and then the right connectors makes it easier. I used this 5/16 In. Steel To 3/8 In. Nylon connector and these 3/8 In. Steel To 3/8 In. Nylon ones. Obviously they aren't 90 degree, but they make them as well.