Farm Truck project kicks off with a driveshaft question

[RenoHuskerDu]

You may remember that we have a sweet 1989 F250 with only 106k on the clock. XLT Lariat, no cracks in interior, everything works. Its 7.3 IDI succumbed to water jacket perforation a few months back. I think I already posted about that.

We decided to swap in another motor and a ZF5, located a donor truck after some time, and are undertaking that project now. All is proceeding swimmingly so far. Pics below.

One hurdle will be the 2-piece driveshaft. The outgoing C6 (for sale, was rebuild in 2018 5k miles ago) has a slip shaft output. The ZF5 manual tranny we are installing has a U joint yoke output. See pics.

Question: Has anybody done a ZF5 swap into a Bricky that originally had a C6 automatic? It's an ECLB (extended cab long bed) 2wd F250. How did you resolve the driveshaft difference? Brickys did get the ZF5 option. I suppose I could just buy a replacement driveshaft for a 5sp ECLB Bricky. Or have a shaft built by someone like Tom Wood's (who only builds 1-piece shafts). Whichever is less expensive.

UPDATE: NAPA wants $1100 for a driveshaft that fits a 5sp ECLB ! Yikes.

That's the outgoing C6 tranny and its slip shaft

This is the ZF5 manual we're swapping in.

 

[RenoHuskerDu]

It occurred to me that if we were to remove the slip yoke off the front of the old driveshaft, the U-joint might fit directly into the back yoke of the ZF5.

[Gary Lewis]

It occurred to me that if we were to remove the slip yoke off the front of the old driveshaft, the U-joint might fit directly into the back yoke of the ZF5.

I can't answer your questions as I've not done that swap. But we do have the section of the Master Parts Catalog on the site that gives all of the dimensions for every truck from 1980 - 89. And the ZF5 was used in the late 80's.

Go to Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts and then click the Application tab. Once you have the part number you can go to the Cross-Reference tab and find your driveshaft and its dimensions.

One trick is to click the Full Screen button in the lower right of the window and it'll open that file in a new tab. And then you can use the search function to find the part number.

[Bruce moose4x4]

It occurred to me that if we were to remove the slip yoke off the front of the old driveshaft, the U-joint might fit directly into the back yoke of the ZF5.

If the two piece shaft has a slip at the carrier bearing in the middle, that would work. Even if the u joints are different sizes, they make some crossover joints that might work.

[RenoHuskerDu]

If the two piece shaft has a slip at the carrier bearing in the middle, that would work. Even if the u joints are different sizes, they make some crossover joints that might work.

Thank you gentlemen,

Between your info and Gary's, we are encouraged enough to go ahead and mount up the motor and tranny, then measure and give it a try. There is hope.

Based on some phone research yesterday, I do have driveshaft builder info that you may wish to save in case you ever have need of a driveshaft.

.Tom Wood's has an excellent reputation and are based in Utah. But they only do 1-piece driveshafts. They gave me a lead to PowerTrain Industries.

.PowerTrain Industries is located in Cali, and I didn't get a chance to explore their products. Their web site wants you to call. But the guy hung up on me when I expressed some reservations about Cali, having had generally poor experiences with Cali companies since the whole Cooties virus business started up. Pretty bad to hang up on a customer prospect. Cali has high taxes and business-unfriendly regulations.

.Adam's Driveshaft in Henderson NV was willing to build me one, but that's a few states away from me.

.Gresham's in Odessa TX was easy to work with. If I need a driveshaft, I'll go with them. They offered to only build the front half, which is really all I'd need. Gresham's

.In general, I'd encourage you to check around locally for a driveshaft builder with a good reputation and attitude. There are still numerous out there, especially if your state has a lot of agricultural tractors teeming thru your plains, hills and dales.

[Gary Lewis]

Thank you gentlemen,

Between your info and Gary's, we are encouraged enough to go ahead and mount up the motor and tranny, then measure and give it a try. There is hope.

Based on some phone research yesterday, I do have driveshaft builder info that you may wish to save in case you ever have need of a driveshaft.

.Tom Wood's has an excellent reputation and are based in Utah. But they only do 1-piece driveshafts. They gave me a lead to PowerTrain Industries.

.PowerTrain Industries is located in Cali, and I didn't get a chance to explore their products. Their web site wants you to call. But the guy hung up on me when I expressed some reservations about Cali, having had generally poor experiences with Cali companies since the whole Cooties virus business started up. Pretty bad to hang up on a customer prospect. Cali has high taxes and business-unfriendly regulations.

.Adam's Driveshaft in Henderson NV was willing to build me one, but that's a few states away from me.

.Gresham's in Odessa TX was easy to work with. If I need a driveshaft, I'll go with them. They offered to only build the front half, which is really all I'd need. Gresham's

.In general, I'd encourage you to check around locally for a driveshaft builder with a good reputation and attitude. There are still numerous out there, especially if your state has a lot of agricultural tractors teeming thru your plains, hills and dales.

Glad you got it figured out. And having just the front one made is a good idea.

As for getting hung up on, you are right to move on. They obviously can't spell "customer support".

And working locally is a good idea anyway. Now you have someone to go back to if you have an issue or a question. And they aren't likely to hang up on you, either.

[RenoHuskerDu]

Glad you got it figured out. And having just the front one made is a good idea.

As for getting hung up on, you are right to move on. They obviously can't spell "customer support".

And working locally is a good idea anyway. Now you have someone to go back to if you have an issue or a question. And they aren't likely to hang up on you, either.

It's an unpleasant job but I took it on. Gave the boys tougher jobs, lol.

That motor stand was not up to the task ... had to brace under the damper with a 2x6

Harbor Freight offers a 1 ton stand ... out of stock of course

Cleanliness is next to Godliness.

 

[Gary Lewis]

It's an unpleasant job but I took it on. Gave the boys tougher jobs, lol.

That motor stand was not up to the task ... had to brace under the damper with a 2x6

Harbor Freight offers a 1 ton stand ... out of stock of course

Cleanliness is next to Godliness.

That is a LOT of weight, so I'm not surprised that little stand wasn't up to the task. Glad you didn't break it.

Anyway, good luck cleaning up. I spent a loooooong time with a pressure washer to clean up Big Blue after all of his leaks. What a mess!

[RenoHuskerDu]

That is a LOT of weight, so I'm not surprised that little stand wasn't up to the task. Glad you didn't break it.

Anyway, good luck cleaning up. I spent a loooooong time with a pressure washer to clean up Big Blue after all of his leaks. What a mess!

The pressure washer is our friend.

It's those greasy little minions projected back at us at 60 mph that are our enemy.

[RenoHuskerDu]

We pulled this pedal box at the junkyard today. It's the last manual tranny Bricky in the yard. Got it home and cleaned it up for install (Farm Truck is going from C6 to ZF5). Alas, we found a crack. To my eye it's structural.

What do y'all think? I'm not inclined to install it with that crack in it.

We do have TIG capability, if we bought the right gas, but we haven't done TIG yet so there would be a learning curve. However we do have a great welding shop nearby where we could take it.

Or, could it simply be JB Welded on both sides? That I doubt, but thought I'd mention it.

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