Gary Lewis Posted July 9, 2021 Posted July 9, 2021 I used to build plastic models when I was a teenager, and even belonged to a local plastic modeler's club. The level of detail some of those guys put into their builds was just incredible. I used to use thread for spark plug wires on my models. But that was 60 years ago.
rcarlisle Posted July 10, 2021 Posted July 10, 2021 I used to use thread for spark plug wires on my models. But that was 60 years ago. It's crazy now. There are pre wired distributors now. With tiny little wire. Photo etched metal details. Builders with talent that is just unreal.
Rusty_S85 Posted July 11, 2021 Posted July 11, 2021 It's crazy now. There are pre wired distributors now. With tiny little wire. Photo etched metal details. Builders with talent that is just unreal. Pricy to in many instances. I wired my own dist up as well as going the extra step of using correct color wires as well as using correct firing order with Cylinder 1 where it really is on the real distributor cap. Wires are a bit oversized but most wont notice that. Only thing I need to do is use some CA glue on the back of the heads to bundle the wires together. They have wire looms now in scale but I dont think they have a 4 square loom and I only found out about them after I had already installed the wires. PE is quite nice but 3D resin printing is quickly replacing PE in lots of instances for details. Like for example these 3D resin printed Cragar SS mags that were chrome plated afterwards. Like wise 3D resin printing is being used in garage kits as well. I bought this figure kit from a guy in New York that uses 3D resin printing to create a master which then he casts a mold of then pours the resin kits out of said mold. Once the mold breaks down he uses the master to cast another mold. Its why I am waiting for 3D resin printers to come down in price cause they are starting to become popular in the model scene.
rcarlisle Posted July 12, 2021 Posted July 12, 2021 It's crazy now. There are pre wired distributors now. With tiny little wire. Photo etched metal details. Builders with talent that is just unreal. Pricy to in many instances. I wired my own dist up as well as going the extra step of using correct color wires as well as using correct firing order with Cylinder 1 where it really is on the real distributor cap. Wires are a bit oversized but most wont notice that. Only thing I need to do is use some CA glue on the back of the heads to bundle the wires together. They have wire looms now in scale but I dont think they have a 4 square loom and I only found out about them after I had already installed the wires. PE is quite nice but 3D resin printing is quickly replacing PE in lots of instances for details. Like for example these 3D resin printed Cragar SS mags that were chrome plated afterwards. Like wise 3D resin printing is being used in garage kits as well. I bought this figure kit from a guy in New York that uses 3D resin printing to create a master which then he casts a mold of then pours the resin kits out of said mold. Once the mold breaks down he uses the master to cast another mold. Its why I am waiting for 3D resin printers to come down in price cause they are starting to become popular in the model scene. I got to a point where I build with what's in the box and what I have on hand. I bought spools of thin wire from radio shack years ago and have enough spark plug wire to last the rest of my life. Good luck getting a 3D printer - I am amazed at the things being made now. Opens up another dimension of the hobby.
Rusty_S85 Posted July 12, 2021 Posted July 12, 2021 I got to a point where I build with what's in the box and what I have on hand. I bought spools of thin wire from radio shack years ago and have enough spark plug wire to last the rest of my life. Good luck getting a 3D printer - I am amazed at the things being made now. Opens up another dimension of the hobby. Thats how used to be with just building what is called box stock. But now I like being able to buy custom parts and really go crazy. Before now about the only crazy way Ive gone is kit bashing blending pieces from different kits but in my book they are still box stock cause all pieces are kit pieces just not necessarily from the same kit. Like the 49 Ford business coupe I built, I did her up in a black gloss exterior, tan brown interior, GT steering wheel from another kit where I used the stock steering wheel, chrome exhaust dumps from the same kit as the GT steering wheel, I set the car to the lowered pin on the front and the stock heigth on the rear to get a rake (right way would have been taller tires on back) then I threw under the hood a 460 tripower big block in place of the flathead V8.
rcarlisle Posted July 13, 2021 Posted July 13, 2021 I got to a point where I build with what's in the box and what I have on hand. I bought spools of thin wire from radio shack years ago and have enough spark plug wire to last the rest of my life. Good luck getting a 3D printer - I am amazed at the things being made now. Opens up another dimension of the hobby. Thats how used to be with just building what is called box stock. But now I like being able to buy custom parts and really go crazy. Before now about the only crazy way Ive gone is kit bashing blending pieces from different kits but in my book they are still box stock cause all pieces are kit pieces just not necessarily from the same kit. Like the 49 Ford business coupe I built, I did her up in a black gloss exterior, tan brown interior, GT steering wheel from another kit where I used the stock steering wheel, chrome exhaust dumps from the same kit as the GT steering wheel, I set the car to the lowered pin on the front and the stock heigth on the rear to get a rake (right way would have been taller tires on back) then I threw under the hood a 460 tripower big block in place of the flathead V8. Got my kit yesterday and just as I expected, it's a pretty big letdown. So many things wrong. Grille is barely acceptable -not shaped correctly in any plane. Emblems say "CUSTOM F150" when the box says RANGER Dash is pretty awful too. Engine compartment is out of the 70s gen truck as noted previously. Body shape is awkward, but I haven't figured out exactly how it is awkward - something in the shape of the body sides. They don't roll under correctly or something. I'll figure that out. I can fix some of these items and have and idea on the styleside bed. We'll see if ideas work out.
Rusty_S85 Posted July 15, 2021 Posted July 15, 2021 Got my kit yesterday and just as I expected, it's a pretty big letdown. So many things wrong. Grille is barely acceptable -not shaped correctly in any plane. Emblems say "CUSTOM F150" when the box says RANGER Dash is pretty awful too. Engine compartment is out of the 70s gen truck as noted previously. Body shape is awkward, but I haven't figured out exactly how it is awkward - something in the shape of the body sides. They don't roll under correctly or something. I'll figure that out. I can fix some of these items and have and idea on the styleside bed. We'll see if ideas work out. Yep but its about the closest we have unless someone wants to do 3D prints of the cab and bed or create resin replacement bodies. For me I was thinking of buyng the 1991 F350 kit and slicing the inner fenders out of it and grafting it onto mine for a more accurate underhood layout. The hood I will be scraping off the Ford hood lettering as my truck is a '82. For the grill I will apply a Ford oval decal to a piece of styrene stock and cut it out and CA glue it to the grill itself. I will also be puttying in the lower indentation in the door for the twin arm mirrors as my truck has the car type mirrors. For the two tone decal I wont be using it, my truck is dark metallic blue and argent silver two tone. I am thinking about trying my hand at printing in silver color F150 fender emblems on decal paper. Only thing I am unsure about is the mods I am making on my truck engine wise. For example my engine I am building now will have shorty headers and no emission systems. Like wise will be utilizing a 4150 sniper which I think I can install a aftermarket 4150 style 3D printed carb for that look. The other aspect I personally am unsure about is the pinstriping. I am thinking about trying to do the pinstriping by masking the stripes then airbrushing medium blue then applying more masking to airbrush the dark blue. But I think in scale it would be too small to do properly so I might scan the decal sheet two tone sheets and use the edge as a pattern to make the pin striping then delete everything else but I dont think a run of the mill home inkjet printer could print detail that small in two colors. Little fyi for anyone that plan on doing inkjet printing of decals on their own, before you use the decal be sure to spray a clear coat over the decal sheet and let fully cure. This will provide a protective layer for the ink which is simply sitting atop the decal film.
rcarlisle Posted July 15, 2021 Posted July 15, 2021 Got my kit yesterday and just as I expected, it's a pretty big letdown. So many things wrong. Grille is barely acceptable -not shaped correctly in any plane. Emblems say "CUSTOM F150" when the box says RANGER Dash is pretty awful too. Engine compartment is out of the 70s gen truck as noted previously. Body shape is awkward, but I haven't figured out exactly how it is awkward - something in the shape of the body sides. They don't roll under correctly or something. I'll figure that out. I can fix some of these items and have and idea on the styleside bed. We'll see if ideas work out. Yep but its about the closest we have unless someone wants to do 3D prints of the cab and bed or create resin replacement bodies. For me I was thinking of buyng the 1991 F350 kit and slicing the inner fenders out of it and grafting it onto mine for a more accurate underhood layout. The hood I will be scraping off the Ford hood lettering as my truck is a '82. For the grill I will apply a Ford oval decal to a piece of styrene stock and cut it out and CA glue it to the grill itself. I will also be puttying in the lower indentation in the door for the twin arm mirrors as my truck has the car type mirrors. For the two tone decal I wont be using it, my truck is dark metallic blue and argent silver two tone. I am thinking about trying my hand at printing in silver color F150 fender emblems on decal paper. Only thing I am unsure about is the mods I am making on my truck engine wise. For example my engine I am building now will have shorty headers and no emission systems. Like wise will be utilizing a 4150 sniper which I think I can install a aftermarket 4150 style 3D printed carb for that look. The other aspect I personally am unsure about is the pinstriping. I am thinking about trying to do the pinstriping by masking the stripes then airbrushing medium blue then applying more masking to airbrush the dark blue. But I think in scale it would be too small to do properly so I might scan the decal sheet two tone sheets and use the edge as a pattern to make the pin striping then delete everything else but I dont think a run of the mill home inkjet printer could print detail that small in two colors. Little fyi for anyone that plan on doing inkjet printing of decals on their own, before you use the decal be sure to spray a clear coat over the decal sheet and let fully cure. This will provide a protective layer for the ink which is simply sitting atop the decal film. All good ideas you have. Good luck with it. I'm putting all the stuff in a box, a "project box" if you will, so it will all be together when it comes time to start on it in earnest. I may take photos of my emblems, saddle seat cover, gauges, AC vents, etc. Print those and apply properly. I've done that before and it works. Also gives some dimension. I cut them carefully and white glue them to surface.
Rusty_S85 Posted July 15, 2021 Posted July 15, 2021 All good ideas you have. Good luck with it. I'm putting all the stuff in a box, a "project box" if you will, so it will all be together when it comes time to start on it in earnest. I may take photos of my emblems, saddle seat cover, gauges, AC vents, etc. Print those and apply properly. I've done that before and it works. Also gives some dimension. I cut them carefully and white glue them to surface. Thats what I will be doing. I got two high dollar plastic totes with the split top that folds open and close with my engine parts. As I empty them I will be throwing my stash in them for storage till I can get a proper work space setup to actually build them properly.
Gsmblue Posted July 20, 2021 Posted July 20, 2021 Do RC trucks count? I have built/raced RC buggies and trucks my whole life. I still have 6 or so that run and get used regularly as well as a couple of shelf queens. The one I always wanted was the Tamiya Blackfoot. That was Ford F-150 flare side. They released an updated/re release version in 2016 and I had to have it. I put in a brushless motor and lipo batteries so it runs for ever! Well, until the dog catches it. Here is a nifty link to what it looks like, mine is a little more dusty and bruised from constant use. However I have picked up an original decal sheet so looking forward to putting those on, a lot of the licenses expired from 1980ish to 2016.. the new decals did not sit right with me, eBay to the rescue again. https://www.rctech.net/articles/review/old-or-new-tamiya-blackfoot-2016-reviewed/
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