ratdude747 Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Here's an issue I've noted since I bought my bullnose nearly two years ago: The interior lights don't turn on when the dimmer switch is all the way bright? I do feel the click in the switch. I replaced the dimmer switch many months ago to no avail. Assumed it was a "not on my trim" issue and moved on... but finally got to reading the owners manual (since I finally found this site's archive of them), and sure enough, they make it sound like even the most basic dome light like I have should do it. Is this an "available on all dome lights" feature... and what would cause this? AFAIK the wiring for said switch is in good shape... Nothing odd when I replaced the switch (and I still have the old one on the shelf). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 A quick look on the 85 EVTM, it could be the Bk/Pk wire is broken or disconnected. Or if you have the map lights too, the diode could be bad. Does your cargo lamp work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 A quick look on the 85 EVTM, it could be the Bk/Pk wire is broken or disconnected. Or if you have the map lights too, the diode could be bad. Does your cargo lamp work? I don't have map or cargo lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 I don't have map or cargo lights. Dane is right. You can see the wire of which he speaks on the left as Circuit 55. But it is Circuit 53 that is used to bring the dome light on when the doors open. So 55 is just used to bring it on via the headlight switch. That wire, as well as #54 & 53, run down the "gutter" under the threshold, but they are usually wrapped together with tape so you might have to remove the tape to find the problem. And for ease of discussion, here's the relevant page: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 Dane is right. You can see the wire of which he speaks on the left as Circuit 55. But it is Circuit 53 that is used to bring the dome light on when the doors open. So 55 is just used to bring it on via the headlight switch. That wire, as well as #54 & 53, run down the "gutter" under the threshold, but they are usually wrapped together with tape so you might have to remove the tape to find the problem. And for ease of discussion, here's the relevant page: Digging through it. Pulled the sill plate and kick panel Found a somewhat corroded but still functional C202... no jumper between 55 and 53. But I am getting power on 55 there. The 1985 schematics don't mention C202A... where is that located? I'll keep looking... Edit- Might not be C202... as it shows C202 being on the other side of the door. Great... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 Digging through it. Pulled the sill plate and kick panel Found a somewhat corroded but still functional C202... no jumper between 55 and 53. But I am getting power on 55 there. The 1985 schematics don't mention C202A... where is that located? I'll keep looking... Edit- Might not be C202... as it shows C202 being on the other side of the door. Great... http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-slap-23_orig.gif Yahtzee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 Yahtzee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 Yahtzee. Well done! So, it works now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 Well done! So, it works now? Yep. Been super busy at work this week and haven't had time to post pics of the fix... long story short, I soldered the wire to what was left of the pin. Took a lot of heat and patience to get the solder to wick (strange!) but eventually it took. Coated the back of the connector in liquid tape as additional vibration protection. So far, so good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 Yep. Been super busy at work this week and haven't had time to post pics of the fix... long story short, I soldered the wire to what was left of the pin. Took a lot of heat and patience to get the solder to wick (strange!) but eventually it took. Coated the back of the connector in liquid tape as additional vibration protection. So far, so good! Sounds like a good solution. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts