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Wheel_bearing.jpg.b4f8ff93bc056890be65f9a0e9459148.jpgLocker.jpg.48c49ad076d1370ffbf2ce4228592c16.jpgWaxed.jpg.bd6e5b04b66ae78dc74eb301c0d8990b.jpgHi All,

Back from Spain and ready to continue the Bronco project. Actually started again.

Question about the front wheel bearings, as I see so many different ways of doing it, I have replaced one locker at the right hand side, and set the new lock screw with 80 ft/lbs, where it still turned great, and no play, but when driving I noticed the right hub to become warmer ( not really hot) than the left hub.

Is it correct to install the new outer lock nut with the little pin to the outside ? and how much torque should I apply to this nut?

Further more, the new engine is doing great, first oil change done, still a fuel sucker at best, but drives great now and no more worries about rattles and pings.

Shortened the side mirrors ( other ones are coming ) so I can fit in a Dutch size garage door and don't bounce against bicycle drivers in Amsterdam anymore.

Got is all waxed up now, as the paint is now all hardened out.

Great to get to work again on the Bronco, and start the "69 Ranchero by the end of this month.

 

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Andre - Welcome back! Did you get the house in Spain painted?

The Bronco looks fantastic, although a bit sideways at times. :nabble_smiley_wink:

On the hubs, I always use the instructions from the factory shop manual, Documentation/Driveline/4WD Front Hubs & Rotors, which says:

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.

2. Remove the hub assembly. Refer to Automatic Locking Hub or Manual Locking Hub removal and installation in this part.

3. Using Tool T59T-1197-B (Fig. 3) and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing inner adjusting nut to 68 N-m (50 ft-lb) while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearing.

4. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees.

5. Assemble lockwasher by turning inner locknut to nearest hole in the lockwasher. To lock, install the outer locknut and tighten to 68 N-m (50 ft-lbs).

6. Final end play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.02-0.15mm (0.001-0.006 inch).

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Andre - Welcome back! Did you get the house in Spain painted?

The Bronco looks fantastic, although a bit sideways at times. :nabble_smiley_wink:

On the hubs, I always use the instructions from the factory shop manual, Documentation/Driveline/4WD Front Hubs & Rotors, which says:

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.

2. Remove the hub assembly. Refer to Automatic Locking Hub or Manual Locking Hub removal and installation in this part.

3. Using Tool T59T-1197-B (Fig. 3) and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing inner adjusting nut to 68 N-m (50 ft-lb) while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearing.

4. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees.

5. Assemble lockwasher by turning inner locknut to nearest hole in the lockwasher. To lock, install the outer locknut and tighten to 68 N-m (50 ft-lbs).

6. Final end play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.02-0.15mm (0.001-0.006 inch).

Thanks Gary, I will follow your instructions from the manual you have, as there are so many variations to this issue.

Tomorrow to install a new seal kit in the steering gear box, and a new steering pump, as to expected when things are running and heating up, they start dripping a little. Last thing I want is a drip under the Bronco when parked.

Been busy in Spain at the house, and a short Offshore job in Turkey, so ready to come back to the Bronco.

Found some smaller side mirrors, as the original ones are to wide for me in Holland. Doors will be removed again to weld the original holes and painted again. But there was a plan already to remove the doors again to replace the hinges.

Figured out if you plan a project like this, do it all in once, as you always need to come back to things you did not do at first.

Have a great weekend

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Thanks Gary, I will follow your instructions from the manual you have, as there are so many variations to this issue.

Tomorrow to install a new seal kit in the steering gear box, and a new steering pump, as to expected when things are running and heating up, they start dripping a little. Last thing I want is a drip under the Bronco when parked.

Been busy in Spain at the house, and a short Offshore job in Turkey, so ready to come back to the Bronco.

Found some smaller side mirrors, as the original ones are to wide for me in Holland. Doors will be removed again to weld the original holes and painted again. But there was a plan already to remove the doors again to replace the hinges.

Figured out if you plan a project like this, do it all in once, as you always need to come back to things you did not do at first.

Have a great weekend

Yes, do it all at once so you don't have to go back in. :nabble_smiley_good:

On the mirrors, I understand. I will never forget being in a little village in England when we lived there and watching a guy drive down the street ever so slowly. His mirrors would touch those of the cars on either side and he'd fold them back and move on to the next one. :nabble_smiley_oh:

As for the power steering leak, I'm fighting one of those myself. I do NOT like leaks!

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Yes, do it all at once so you don't have to go back in. :nabble_smiley_good:

On the mirrors, I understand. I will never forget being in a little village in England when we lived there and watching a guy drive down the street ever so slowly. His mirrors would touch those of the cars on either side and he'd fold them back and move on to the next one. :nabble_smiley_oh:

As for the power steering leak, I'm fighting one of those myself. I do NOT like leaks!

Hi Gary,

Multitasking at the moment, starting the Ranchero project, and doing things at the Bronco at the same time.

I have received a Hanyes manual since yesterday therefore I have more information now, I know little late after a project is completed, but I can verify things.

Agree with your option, but the manual states different, please see photo. This is how I did now.

Let me know what you think, I have also used the new outer nut with the pin to the outside, so it can be used again, the ones I had did have all pins broken off, and looked like someone sizzled the nuts down. Now they are all new and correct.

AndreBronco_in_the_sun.jpg.5354ff60bc5f4728f4637f7b47ce725e.jpgRanchero_back.jpg.510f95cd4f3bca1d13020075783c3690.jpgRanchero_front.jpg.c3d355c4f102049c46f0994d51c78efb.jpgDana_44_front.jpg.26f7b4a93bb3015e434d6bbfd1f0d3af.jpgHaynes_manaul.jpg.6e34321887a4ea185550e2eced277ad7.jpgWorking_on_engine.jpg.39f08e733965b14a4fa97f9a8f1bf59f.jpg

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Hi Gary,

Multitasking at the moment, starting the Ranchero project, and doing things at the Bronco at the same time.

I have received a Hanyes manual since yesterday therefore I have more information now, I know little late after a project is completed, but I can verify things.

Agree with your option, but the manual states different, please see photo. This is how I did now.

Let me know what you think, I have also used the new outer nut with the pin to the outside, so it can be used again, the ones I had did have all pins broken off, and looked like someone sizzled the nuts down. Now they are all new and correct.

Andre

Andre - Nice Ranchero!

I've put the Haynes instructions on the right and the factory shop manual instructions on the left, below, to compare them. And basically the only difference I see is that the FSM says to torque to 50 ft-lbs and Haynes says 150 ft-lbs. I'll stick with what Ford says.

FSMs_Wheel_Bearing_Procedure.thumb.jpg.f1b763ab0037685ad04b3998af763ee3.jpgAndres_Wheel_Bearing_Procedure.jpg.bf15568512e62a475fe7cc28875a3ea2.jpg

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Andre - Nice Ranchero!

I've put the Haynes instructions on the right and the factory shop manual instructions on the left, below, to compare them. And basically the only difference I see is that the FSM says to torque to 50 ft-lbs and Haynes says 150 ft-lbs. I'll stick with what Ford says.

Great Gary, I will redo them again today, I found the 150 ft/lbs also pretty heavy to be honest.

Thanks as usual for thinking with me.

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