Jonathan Posted June 24, 2021 Author Share Posted June 24, 2021 I put one of those drain plug kits in my 92 GMC trans pan and could not get it to quit leaking. I guess I could have tried welding it in place but I made the decision to get another pan without the hole and replaced the one I drilled the hole in. I can't recall now if it leaked both where it was in the pan and or the drain plug itself or maybe both. I just remember after dealing with it for some time and trying to get it to stop dripping I was glade to have a pan back on there with no hole in it. Maybe there are better ones out there but I did not look anymore. Thank you for your feedback. Based on the reviews I was going to avoid that drain kit. Seems many people have had a leak problem from that kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 I put one of those drain plug kits in my 92 GMC trans pan and could not get it to quit leaking. I guess I could have tried welding it in place but I made the decision to get another pan without the hole and replaced the one I drilled the hole in. I can't recall now if it leaked both where it was in the pan and or the drain plug itself or maybe both. I just remember after dealing with it for some time and trying to get it to stop dripping I was glade to have a pan back on there with no hole in it. Maybe there are better ones out there but I did not look anymore. Thank you for your feedback. Based on the reviews I was going to avoid that drain kit. Seems many people have had a leak problem from that kit. I bought a pan with a drain and that same gasket. I’m curious how it works for you. I haven’t had a chance to put it on yet. My Suburban came with a permanent gasket, I think from the factory. It’s much thinner. I like it. I’m concerned because this one is thick. May have to torque it several times to get it to settle in. Bought a Moroso gasket for my Bronco too, haven’t got it in either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 24, 2021 Author Share Posted June 24, 2021 I bought a pan with a drain and that same gasket. I’m curious how it works for you. I haven’t had a chance to put it on yet. My Suburban came with a permanent gasket, I think from the factory. It’s much thinner. I like it. I’m concerned because this one is thick. May have to torque it several times to get it to settle in. Bought a Moroso gasket for my Bronco too, haven’t got it in either. I will provide feedback after I install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 I bought a pan with a drain and that same gasket. I’m curious how it works for you. I haven’t had a chance to put it on yet. My Suburban came with a permanent gasket, I think from the factory. It’s much thinner. I like it. I’m concerned because this one is thick. May have to torque it several times to get it to settle in. Bought a Moroso gasket for my Bronco too, haven’t got it in either. I will provide feedback after I install it. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 25, 2021 Author Share Posted June 25, 2021 Thanks! I started tearing into the brakes more yesterday after work. I figured in for a penny, in for a pound and went ahead and ordered rotors, pads, inner and outer bearings, dust cap and more. After looking at the rotor closer and spinning it I got more concerned with imbalance due to the amount of crud in the rotors and rust. Trying to find a matching rotor was fun. Seems everyone stocks and cares about 11" rear drum configurations. Trying to find the smaller rotor for 10" rear drum is more difficult. After some careful measuring I think I got the right one on order. AutoZone sucks at differentiating the configuration. I had to look at Oreilly's and RockAuto to figure out what is going on. I could use some suggestions for good large calipers with long arms. Trying to measure big round things is hard to do with my current tools. I went with the (Bolt Pattern: 5 On 114.3mm) to confirm the best because that is the only thing my calipers can handle. I don't know if they mean on the center of the bolt or not because on mine that seemed like more on the outside of the bolt for the spacing. I ordered from RockAuto because nobody local stocks the smaller front rotors. I also ordered a 20 set of sealed acorn style lug nuts for the wheels. I hope they are not too tall and will not interfere with the hub cap. For only $5.76 20 I couldn't pass that up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 25, 2021 Share Posted June 25, 2021 I started tearing into the brakes more yesterday after work. I figured in for a penny, in for a pound and went ahead and ordered rotors, pads, inner and outer bearings, dust cap and more. After looking at the rotor closer and spinning it I got more concerned with imbalance due to the amount of crud in the rotors and rust. Trying to find a matching rotor was fun. Seems everyone stocks and cares about 11" rear drum configurations. Trying to find the smaller rotor for 10" rear drum is more difficult. After some careful measuring I think I got the right one on order. AutoZone sucks at differentiating the configuration. I had to look at Oreilly's and RockAuto to figure out what is going on. I could use some suggestions for good large calipers with long arms. Trying to measure big round things is hard to do with my current tools. I went with the (Bolt Pattern: 5 On 114.3mm) to confirm the best because that is the only thing my calipers can handle. I don't know if they mean on the center of the bolt or not because on mine that seemed like more on the outside of the bolt for the spacing. I ordered from RockAuto because nobody local stocks the smaller front rotors. I also ordered a 20 set of sealed acorn style lug nuts for the wheels. I hope they are not too tall and will not interfere with the hub cap. For only $5.76 20 I couldn't pass that up. I think you are wise to replace everything as you go on the brakes. You'll be happy when you get it together. As for calipers with long arms, I have the same question but no answer. On the bolt pattern, the 114.3mm or 4.5" is not the distance between every other bolt, but the distance between the center of the wheel or hub and the bolt circle. However, I've read that "You can also measure from the CENTER of one bolt hole to the CENTER of the third hole using a multiplier of 1.05 to find your bolt circle." I've not done the math to prove that, but it seems to fit with what you are finding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 25, 2021 Author Share Posted June 25, 2021 I think you are wise to replace everything as you go on the brakes. You'll be happy when you get it together. As for calipers with long arms, I have the same question but no answer. On the bolt pattern, the 114.3mm or 4.5" is not the distance between every other bolt, but the distance between the center of the wheel or hub and the bolt circle. However, I've read that "You can also measure from the CENTER of one bolt hole to the CENTER of the third hole using a multiplier of 1.05 to find your bolt circle." I've not done the math to prove that, but it seems to fit with what you are finding. I will let you know if I find a good large caliper. Thanks for the bolt pattern info. I will measure again using the information you provided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 26, 2021 Author Share Posted June 26, 2021 I started tearing into the brakes more yesterday after work. I figured in for a penny, in for a pound and went ahead and ordered rotors, pads, inner and outer bearings, dust cap and more. After looking at the rotor closer and spinning it I got more concerned with imbalance due to the amount of crud in the rotors and rust. Trying to find a matching rotor was fun. Seems everyone stocks and cares about 11" rear drum configurations. Trying to find the smaller rotor for 10" rear drum is more difficult. After some careful measuring I think I got the right one on order. AutoZone sucks at differentiating the configuration. I had to look at Oreilly's and RockAuto to figure out what is going on. I could use some suggestions for good large calipers with long arms. Trying to measure big round things is hard to do with my current tools. I went with the (Bolt Pattern: 5 On 114.3mm) to confirm the best because that is the only thing my calipers can handle. I don't know if they mean on the center of the bolt or not because on mine that seemed like more on the outside of the bolt for the spacing. I ordered from RockAuto because nobody local stocks the smaller front rotors. I also ordered a 20 set of sealed acorn style lug nuts for the wheels. I hope they are not too tall and will not interfere with the hub cap. For only $5.76 20 I couldn't pass that up. This morning I dismantled more of the wheel spindle area. I wanted to inspect what more I may need to order and get the brake dust shield off to paint. I was very overwhelmed when I ordered the inner and outer bearings from RockAuto with the selection of grease seals. I have no idea which one I need. Looking for help to figure out what I need to order for the seal behind the inner bearing. And is there anything else I don't see I need? Should I replace the tie rod end while I have all this off? And what is under this thick coat of dirt where the wheel turns? Is there some bearings or seals I should get for this? I need technical names because this is out of my wheelhouse. I can do the work and follow directions but need some guidance for this. Here is the bearings I ordered if it helps figure out the seal I need. NATIONAL A12 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Outer https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220146&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=11 NATIONAL A13 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Inner https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220147&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=12 There is a rough sharp area circled and pointed at in the picture. Is that normal and will it have any affect on operation? I will probably get the pressure washer out later and just blast this whole area so I can see what I am doing. It will probably save me a lot of time in prepping for painting also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 26, 2021 Author Share Posted June 26, 2021 This morning I dismantled more of the wheel spindle area. I wanted to inspect what more I may need to order and get the brake dust shield off to paint. I was very overwhelmed when I ordered the inner and outer bearings from RockAuto with the selection of grease seals. I have no idea which one I need. Looking for help to figure out what I need to order for the seal behind the inner bearing. And is there anything else I don't see I need? Should I replace the tie rod end while I have all this off? And what is under this thick coat of dirt where the wheel turns? Is there some bearings or seals I should get for this? I need technical names because this is out of my wheelhouse. I can do the work and follow directions but need some guidance for this. Here is the bearings I ordered if it helps figure out the seal I need. NATIONAL A12 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Outer https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220146&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=11 NATIONAL A13 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Inner https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220147&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=12 There is a rough sharp area circled and pointed at in the picture. Is that normal and will it have any affect on operation? I will probably get the pressure washer out later and just blast this whole area so I can see what I am doing. It will probably save me a lot of time in prepping for painting also. Now I got my peepers locked in on it. I think this may be what I need. Looking for confirmation. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=254581&cc=1120510&pt=1860&jsn=1392&jsn=1392 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 26, 2021 Author Share Posted June 26, 2021 This morning I dismantled more of the wheel spindle area. I wanted to inspect what more I may need to order and get the brake dust shield off to paint. I was very overwhelmed when I ordered the inner and outer bearings from RockAuto with the selection of grease seals. I have no idea which one I need. Looking for help to figure out what I need to order for the seal behind the inner bearing. And is there anything else I don't see I need? Should I replace the tie rod end while I have all this off? And what is under this thick coat of dirt where the wheel turns? Is there some bearings or seals I should get for this? I need technical names because this is out of my wheelhouse. I can do the work and follow directions but need some guidance for this. Here is the bearings I ordered if it helps figure out the seal I need. NATIONAL A12 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Outer https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220146&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=11 NATIONAL A13 (Standard Replacement) Bearing and Race Set; Taper Bearing Set Includes Cup and Cone Info Front Inner https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220147&cc=1120510&pt=1672&jsn=12 There is a rough sharp area circled and pointed at in the picture. Is that normal and will it have any affect on operation? I will probably get the pressure washer out later and just blast this whole area so I can see what I am doing. It will probably save me a lot of time in prepping for painting also. Is this what is inside that steering knuckle? Is it called a King Pin Set? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=200996&cc=1120510&pt=7340&jsn=998&jsn=998 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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