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1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)


Jonathan

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I agree with you, Gary. Jonathan is going to have a GREAT truck when he's ready. I feel like he has spent more time on a couple of systems than a lot of guys do on a whole truck. Mine included. I do not have the patience Jonathan does. I do hope that someday, he & I can meet up for lunch in our respective trucks maybe, since they are the same basic package - 2 tone blue 81 Explorers. His is what mine is supposed to look like under the solid blue paint. Be cool to see them together in a parking lot. Heck it'd be cool to see two bullnoses together anywhere now.

Thanks Randy, that is a good idea about the meetup too. We should make a Meetup group when we do plan that even though at first we may be the only two people there. It would be great to see what other people have done to their old trucks and trade ideas. We can call it "Trucks and Coffee". :nabble_smiley_beam:

I found a guy on FB yesterday in Asheboro. He may have a brick, but still...

 

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I agree with you, Gary. Jonathan is going to have a GREAT truck when he's ready. I feel like he has spent more time on a couple of systems than a lot of guys do on a whole truck. Mine included. I do not have the patience Jonathan does. I do hope that someday, he & I can meet up for lunch in our respective trucks maybe, since they are the same basic package - 2 tone blue 81 Explorers. His is what mine is supposed to look like under the solid blue paint. Be cool to see them together in a parking lot. Heck it'd be cool to see two bullnoses together anywhere now.

Thanks Randy, that is a good idea about the meetup too. We should make a Meetup group when we do plan that even though at first we may be the only two people there. It would be great to see what other people have done to their old trucks and trade ideas. We can call it "Trucks and Coffee". :nabble_smiley_beam:

Trucks and coffee! I love it!

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I got the plugs for the spare tire lock to protect the keyhole from getting dirt in it. The smaller hole plug is not the correct size and too loose. The larger hole is a good fit. I am ordering a different brand to see if it fits better. I will connect the two with a wire to try and emulate the original design pictured.

I got the new smaller plugs in and it is a better fit. The previous one said it should of been .26 inches and it was .22 inches. The new one is .24 inches but should be .25 inches. It is close enough and I will go with it. Not a tight fit but at least not loose like before. I will probably put hot glue behind the plug so it will not fall out. Included are links for both plugs. The larger plug for the keyhole is the most important.

I also ordered a bleed kit for the master cylinder. I was inspecting the bleed kit that comes with the master cylinder and I was not impressed so I ordered one that says includes the sizes I need. I didn't have the right gauge for one of the ports so guessed it is 7/16 24 since it fit in my 7/16 20 but would not screw on.

https://amzn.to/3zQKrAV

MBPF-1/4" 0.25 inch

https://amzn.to/3vUYx0S

Dorman 14151 Brake Master Cylinder Bleeding Tool

https://amzn.to/3d5VpsG

Peg Hole Plugs 12mm Dia

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The lines and the valve body were painted in high temp paint. I need to let it dry some before I put it in the oven to cure it properly. I used primer, paint and clear coat. The drivers side brake line I painted black and the lines to the master cylinder were painted silver along with the valve. One cap for the valve I couldn't find the rubber plug so I didn't dare try to remove it and break it. So I covered it up so it wouldn't get painted and I can't heat cure that part. I covered the part where the o-ring goes too so it will seal better. The valve body flashed rusted right after the final rinse and scrub in acetone. I just painted it as fast as I could.

The test gaskets (Different colors because using scrap material.)for the firewall to power booster went okay. I would of preferred to keep fine tuning until perfect but when you are getting assistance you can only push people so far to satisfy your OCD. So the final cut is ready but the machine blade is not set up for how thick the gasket is and didn't cut through all the way. The new blade is going to be purchased today to cut the thick gasket.

Looking for recommendations on sealant to put around the gasket. It mostly to keep cold air coming in the cab in the winter but keeping water out would be good too.

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The test gaskets (Different colors because using scrap material.)for the firewall to power booster went okay. I would of preferred to keep fine tuning until perfect but when you are getting assistance you can only push people so far to satisfy your OCD. So the final cut is ready but the machine blade is not set up for how thick the gasket is and didn't cut through all the way. The new blade is going to be purchased today to cut the thick gasket.

Looking for recommendations on sealant to put around the gasket. It mostly to keep cold air coming in the cab in the winter but keeping water out would be good too.

That's cool! :nabble_anim_claps:

As for sealant, I've not used any. But I do realize the firewall isn't very flat, so maybe some sealant would be helpful. I guess I'd say RTV. The black kind?

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That's cool! :nabble_anim_claps:

As for sealant, I've not used any. But I do realize the firewall isn't very flat, so maybe some sealant would be helpful. I guess I'd say RTV. The black kind?

Thanks, I will pick some up. Mine is probably all dried up by now. One of the reasons I sanded and painted the firewall was to make a better seal. It was very rough. It still is rough but better then it was before. The old power booster had a gasket, I am not sure why the new one does not cover the whole hole in the firewall. I couldn't find a gasket aftermarket.

 

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That's cool! :nabble_anim_claps:

As for sealant, I've not used any. But I do realize the firewall isn't very flat, so maybe some sealant would be helpful. I guess I'd say RTV. The black kind?

Thanks, I will pick some up. Mine is probably all dried up by now. One of the reasons I sanded and painted the firewall was to make a better seal. It was very rough. It still is rough but better then it was before. The old power booster had a gasket, I am not sure why the new one does not cover the whole hole in the firewall. I couldn't find a gasket aftermarket.

Looking for feedback on upgrading my transmission pan whilst changing the oil. I ordered the filter set shown. Thinking about this upgraded gasket Moroso 93108 and TCI 428000 pan. Will I need to extend the pickup to use this pan? I am having trouble finding information out about that.

https://amzn.to/3d7FCJS

TCI 428000 Ford C6 Cast Aluminum Deep Pan

https://amzn.to/3gSblkj

Moroso 93108 Perm-align Transmission Gasket for Ford C6 (93108)

https://amzn.to/3zNrO0C

ATP B-50 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit

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Looking for feedback on upgrading my transmission pan whilst changing the oil. I ordered the filter set shown. Thinking about this upgraded gasket Moroso 93108 and TCI 428000 pan. Will I need to extend the pickup to use this pan? I am having trouble finding information out about that.

https://amzn.to/3d7FCJS

TCI 428000 Ford C6 Cast Aluminum Deep Pan

https://amzn.to/3gSblkj

Moroso 93108 Perm-align Transmission Gasket for Ford C6 (93108)

https://amzn.to/3zNrO0C

ATP B-50 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit

I like that pan. I strongly recommend that everyone add a way to drain the pan when it is off, and that is one way to do that.

But, it is expensive. And while the fins probably help some in cooling, you could probably get much better cooling out of an add-on cooler. So unless you just like the look of that pan and don't mind spending the money, I'd suggest:

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I like that pan. I strongly recommend that everyone add a way to drain the pan when it is off, and that is one way to do that.

But, it is expensive. And while the fins probably help some in cooling, you could probably get much better cooling out of an add-on cooler. So unless you just like the look of that pan and don't mind spending the money, I'd suggest:

I put one of those drain plug kits in my 92 GMC trans pan and could not get it to quit leaking. I guess I could have tried welding it in place but I made the decision to get another pan without the hole and replaced the one I drilled the hole in. I can't recall now if it leaked both where it was in the pan and or the drain plug itself or maybe both. I just remember after dealing with it for some time and trying to get it to stop dripping I was glade to have a pan back on there with no hole in it. Maybe there are better ones out there but I did not look anymore.

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I like that pan. I strongly recommend that everyone add a way to drain the pan when it is off, and that is one way to do that.

But, it is expensive. And while the fins probably help some in cooling, you could probably get much better cooling out of an add-on cooler. So unless you just like the look of that pan and don't mind spending the money, I'd suggest:

Draining ease and not cooling was my main motivation to changing the pan. But the cheaper pans with the drain plug built in have bad reviews and the oil drain plug add on I wanted to avoid because of leak reports in the reviews as well. But that cooler seems like a great deal! I will keep that one in mind. But maybe the extra two quarts in the deep pan may help with heat dissipation and dilution of contaminates.

Do I need to modify the pickup for the deep pan?

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