Jonathan Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 The brake lines I removed the rust in the solution and hand polished using the wire wheel between every coil of the spring. As you can imagine it took a long time to do this. I was sitting there for around three hours just polishing away. Now it is ready for some paint to protect it. I soaked and rinsed it in acetone when I was finished. The inside of the lines where cleaned with brake cleaner. The lines and the valve body were painted in high temp paint. I need to let it dry some before I put it in the oven to cure it properly. I used primer, paint and clear coat. The drivers side brake line I painted black and the lines to the master cylinder were painted silver along with the valve. One cap for the valve I couldn't find the rubber plug so I didn't dare try to remove it and break it. So I covered it up so it wouldn't get painted and I can't heat cure that part. I covered the part where the o-ring goes too so it will seal better. The valve body flashed rusted right after the final rinse and scrub in acetone. I just painted it as fast as I could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 The lines and the valve body were painted in high temp paint. I need to let it dry some before I put it in the oven to cure it properly. I used primer, paint and clear coat. The drivers side brake line I painted black and the lines to the master cylinder were painted silver along with the valve. One cap for the valve I couldn't find the rubber plug so I didn't dare try to remove it and break it. So I covered it up so it wouldn't get painted and I can't heat cure that part. I covered the part where the o-ring goes too so it will seal better. The valve body flashed rusted right after the final rinse and scrub in acetone. I just painted it as fast as I could. That sure looks GOOD! How 'bout a how-to on refurbishing the combination valve? You have the pics and the experience, and I know you can do it. As for the sway bar, that was an option and not many of the trucks have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 That sure looks GOOD! How 'bout a how-to on refurbishing the combination valve? You have the pics and the experience, and I know you can do it. As for the sway bar, that was an option and not many of the trucks have them. Wow! Looks great! I admire your perseverance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Wow! Looks great! I admire your perseverance! That is looking impressively good. Great attention to detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 That sure looks GOOD! How 'bout a how-to on refurbishing the combination valve? You have the pics and the experience, and I know you can do it. As for the sway bar, that was an option and not many of the trucks have them. Thanks Gary. How do I go about the process of creating the how-to? Can I use full resolution pictures for better detail? I won't be able to start the how-to creation until I finish it. I still need to heat cure the valve body, change all the seals, reassemble and test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 Wow! Looks great! I admire your perseverance! Thank Wow! Looks great! I admire your perseverance! Thank you for the positive feedback Dane. I figure it is a good chance to rebuild some parts when it is out and the truck is down. It delays the project some but I will rest easier when I know that part is not a reliability question anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 That is looking impressively good. Great attention to detail. Thanks Bob! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 That sure looks GOOD! How 'bout a how-to on refurbishing the combination valve? You have the pics and the experience, and I know you can do it. As for the sway bar, that was an option and not many of the trucks have them. Thanks Gary. How do I go about the process of creating the how-to? Can I use full resolution pictures for better detail? I won't be able to start the how-to creation until I finish it. I still need to heat cure the valve body, change all the seals, reassemble and test. We need to put the how-to on the documentation part of the site, and we can use full resolution pictures. Write it up and designate where which pic goes and send it to me. I can piece it together. Or, write it up in a Word or pdf and put the pics exactly where you want them and I'll just embed it on a page. Your call, but we can do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 We need to put the how-to on the documentation part of the site, and we can use full resolution pictures. Write it up and designate where which pic goes and send it to me. I can piece it together. Or, write it up in a Word or pdf and put the pics exactly where you want them and I'll just embed it on a page. Your call, but we can do it. Thanks for the info, I will keep you updated on my progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 Well that sounds like an open diff to me. If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh. There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5. I changed the rear diff gear oil on Sunday. I picked up the cheapest oil AutoZone had because it was only two dollars more then Wal-Mart, so it saved me a trip. I also picked up a pump they had for the new oil. The pump was not that great, the hose kept coming off and the straw did not go down all the way to the bottom of the 1 gallon bottle. So it can only pump out three quarts before it starts sucking air. It took me over an hour of pumping by hand to get the oil out using my old Wal-Mart fluid transfer pump. It didn't help that after I cleaned off and removed the fill plug there is a lot of crap blocking you from getting the hand pump hose in. So I had to step down all the way to a moped fuel line and vacuum adapter to get the hose to the bottom. The whole process really sucked. I used the whole gallon of oil but I spilled a lot every time the pump hose popped off. I actually over filled until it was poring out. I didn't give it a chance to level off and drain because I was parked on a hill. After it was poring out I quickly put the plug back in. After the truck is level I am thinking about removing the fill plug and let it drain the excess. Please let me know your thoughts on this plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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