1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

I'm subbed to that channel, and have seen the video..

You might have a look at the channel Mustie1, which uses beeswax and bar oil as an undercoat.

The struggle is real here in the salty northeast.

I agree 100% that the lanolin solution is messy.

Anything is better than rubberized undercoat which actually promotes chassis and body rot by trapping salty water in crevasses.

I have not heard of Mustie1. I will check that out.

[Jonathan]

You are on a ROLL! Both Amazon and Inline Tube sends you the right stuff, eventually.

Sometimes I feel like I am walking into the wind in a strong storm where you have to lean forward or you will be blown back. There has been some parts challenges in this revival. But I keep marching forward.

[Jonathan]

You are on a ROLL! Both Amazon and Inline Tube sends you the right stuff, eventually.

Sometimes I feel like I am walking into the wind in a strong storm where you have to lean forward or you will be blown back. There has been some parts challenges in this revival. But I keep marching forward.

I have good news. The truck started for the first time and ran! Not only that but it started up immediately with no delay at all. I didn't even remove the air cleaner to help it in any way. I purged the fuel line up to the carb, connected the spark plug wires back and fired her up. I left all the old spark components in for the first fire just to see what would happen. The original brain box, coil, cap and rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires work well enough to run so far. But I have new replacements ready to go in when I get to that point. I only ran it for 5 mins to get the oil flowing and will change it this weekend after warming it up again. I added some coolant after I turned it off. It was low, I should have checked that first.

So after running I did a post run inspection. I found an oil puddle formed at the base of the engine where the transmission meets. Hopefully the seals will get better after running again. Maybe they will swell up, I hope. I am going to try some seal rejuvenator things after I change the oil to see if that helps.

Next I need to get it to stop. I push my foot on the brake peddle and it won't build pressure.

[Gary Lewis]

I have good news. The truck started for the first time and ran! Not only that but it started up immediately with no delay at all. I didn't even remove the air cleaner to help it in any way. I purged the fuel line up to the carb, connected the spark plug wires back and fired her up. I left all the old spark components in for the first fire just to see what would happen. The original brain box, coil, cap and rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires work well enough to run so far. But I have new replacements ready to go in when I get to that point. I only ran it for 5 mins to get the oil flowing and will change it this weekend after warming it up again. I added some coolant after I turned it off. It was low, I should have checked that first.

So after running I did a post run inspection. I found an oil puddle formed at the base of the engine where the transmission meets. Hopefully the seals will get better after running again. Maybe they will swell up, I hope. I am going to try some seal rejuvenator things after I change the oil to see if that helps.

Next I need to get it to stop. I push my foot on the brake peddle and it won't build pressure.

Congrat's!!!! That's wonderful!

On the oil leak, the new oil should help, as will actually running it like you did. But I'd try that before I hit it with seal swell. You can always add it later.

[Jonathan]

You are on a ROLL! Both Amazon and Inline Tube sends you the right stuff, eventually.

Sometimes I feel like I am walking into the wind in a strong storm where you have to lean forward or you will be blown back. There has been some parts challenges in this revival. But I keep marching forward.

So I really want to test drive the truck but I can't back out the driveway with no brakes. I started on the driver's side front. Bleeding the brakes no blood came out. I slowly worked my way back removing connection by connection until I found the blockage. The block is somewhere in the line but I don't know where. AutoZone has the softline but not the hardline. And I got a new master cylinder. They only had the drinkers side softline so I had to order in the captain's side in. Hopefully I can clear out the line. But I ran out of brake cleaner so I couldn't try to clear it long before I ran out. The softline is rubber so maybe it swelled shut inside. After I remove it I will try to get fluid to flow before connecting the new rubber line. I also have a power booster on order to be safe.

The first picture is exactly how I found the master cylinder when I removed the cover for the first time. The rear brake reservoir was a little low. The front brake reservoir was very murky and full of contamination on the bottom.

After I disconnected the line going to the proportioning valve fluid started to drain from the master cylinder. I had to stop it to prevent all that gunk getting in there. Randy suggested a turkey baster which I used to get the rest out.

[Jonathan]

Congrat's!!!! That's wonderful!

On the oil leak, the new oil should help, as will actually running it like you did. But I'd try that before I hit it with seal swell. You can always add it later.

Thanks Gary. I hope things will settle in after it is running a while. Lots of smoke and burning smell right now too. But I guess after sitting for 12 years it has a few things to burn off.

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!!!! That's wonderful!

On the oil leak, the new oil should help, as will actually running it like you did. But I'd try that before I hit it with seal swell. You can always add it later.

Thanks Gary. I hope things will settle in after it is running a while. Lots of smoke and burning smell right now too. But I guess after sitting for 12 years it has a few things to burn off.

That brake fluid looks awful!

And the brake hoses can swell shut inside. In fact, they can act as a check valve, allowing the pressure to set the brakes but not letting it drop off to release them. So it is wise to replace them.

Good luck with the project. But I'll warn you that it is likely the rear wheel cylinders will be bad as well. In my experience when the fluid is that rusty then there are several problems, and the rears seem to be a prime candidate.

[Jonathan]

That brake fluid looks awful!

And the brake hoses can swell shut inside. In fact, they can act as a check valve, allowing the pressure to set the brakes but not letting it drop off to release them. So it is wise to replace them.

Good luck with the project. But I'll warn you that it is likely the rear wheel cylinders will be bad as well. In my experience when the fluid is that rusty then there are several problems, and the rears seem to be a prime candidate.

Should I just go ahead and order before 4pm? If I order before 4pm I can get it tomorrow. After 4pm and I won't get until next Wednesday. And for the fronts how do I measure the rear drums? LOL It sounds so backwards. Do I measure from the inside or outside? I really don't have much time to pull them before 4pm so I am hoping there is a easy way to tell. It seems based on stock 11" rear is more common.

[rcarlisle]

That brake fluid looks awful!

And the brake hoses can swell shut inside. In fact, they can act as a check valve, allowing the pressure to set the brakes but not letting it drop off to release them. So it is wise to replace them.

Good luck with the project. But I'll warn you that it is likely the rear wheel cylinders will be bad as well. In my experience when the fluid is that rusty then there are several problems, and the rears seem to be a prime candidate.

Should I just go ahead and order before 4pm? If I order before 4pm I can get it tomorrow. After 4pm and I won't get until next Wednesday. And for the fronts how do I measure the rear drums? LOL It sounds so backwards. Do I measure from the inside or outside? I really don't have much time to pull them before 4pm so I am hoping there is a easy way to tell. It seems based on stock 11" rear is more common.

I got my wheel cyclinders at Advance or Oreillys, in stock. I bought everything but the hardware pack locally so I could return it if necessary. I bought the hardware on Amazon because it seemed to be the most complete kit in one package for one price. No mixing and matching. The rears may have rusted into pieces by now. Seems like a lot have.

[Gary Lewis]

That brake fluid looks awful!

And the brake hoses can swell shut inside. In fact, they can act as a check valve, allowing the pressure to set the brakes but not letting it drop off to release them. So it is wise to replace them.

Good luck with the project. But I'll warn you that it is likely the rear wheel cylinders will be bad as well. In my experience when the fluid is that rusty then there are several problems, and the rears seem to be a prime candidate.

Should I just go ahead and order before 4pm? If I order before 4pm I can get it tomorrow. After 4pm and I won't get until next Wednesday. And for the fronts how do I measure the rear drums? LOL It sounds so backwards. Do I measure from the inside or outside? I really don't have much time to pull them before 4pm so I am hoping there is a easy way to tell. It seems based on stock 11" rear is more common.

The master parts catalog, shown at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes, says that F100's with manual brakes have 11" drums and those with power brakes have 10" drums. But to verify that you should measure the inside of the drums. And you probably should verify that.