1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[mat in tn]

So do you just fill in the holes with weld and grind it down? I can use some guidance from you as I just purchased a welder and I have no experience. Once I get it out of the box and set up I will post some pictures so you know what I am working with.

I have two oem tailgates stripped and getting welded up now. one was really bad so I'm calling it "repaired" but the other I'm being picky about because it's going on a frame off truck. when I can get back on it that is.

not exactly. when you see a pinhole, you think " I can tack that" then you hit it and it becomes a 3/8" gap. this happens often because as usual these rust from the inside out. poor sealing from the factory due to the inability to paint well on the inside. there is barely anything in there. that said, when you see a pin hole its most likely a dime sized on the inside. its best to cut out an area larger enough to assess the steel. Then make a small metal patch slightly smaller and hold it in place with a magnet or two. then tack it in place. do this slowly while tacking against the last tack building as you go but moving around to allow the steel to draw out the heat and not just creating one super-hot spot. too much heat will cause warpage. be patient! I cannot emphasize that enough. sheet metal welding is much more challenging than heavier stock.

the one I consider a repair as an example, is fairly perforated at the bottom. it required a section or two to be cut out and reconstructed. it will be nice when I'm done but it is taking a lot more work. one minor plus is that by cutting out a larger window I can spray a much better coat of "weld through" primer inside and on the filler, piece too then weld it in.

I know may will just say get a new one but good parts are not cheap and cheap parts are not good. on another personal note. I love these trucks! restoring an all American truck with cheap imported parts just feels wrong. when I'm standing beside something I built, i want to be as proud as forrest gump on his wedding day:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

[Jonathan]

not exactly. when you see a pinhole, you think " I can tack that" then you hit it and it becomes a 3/8" gap. this happens often because as usual these rust from the inside out. poor sealing from the factory due to the inability to paint well on the inside. there is barely anything in there. that said, when you see a pin hole its most likely a dime sized on the inside. its best to cut out an area larger enough to assess the steel. Then make a small metal patch slightly smaller and hold it in place with a magnet or two. then tack it in place. do this slowly while tacking against the last tack building as you go but moving around to allow the steel to draw out the heat and not just creating one super-hot spot. too much heat will cause warpage. be patient! I cannot emphasize that enough. sheet metal welding is much more challenging than heavier stock.

the one I consider a repair as an example, is fairly perforated at the bottom. it required a section or two to be cut out and reconstructed. it will be nice when I'm done but it is taking a lot more work. one minor plus is that by cutting out a larger window I can spray a much better coat of "weld through" primer inside and on the filler, piece too then weld it in.

I know may will just say get a new one but good parts are not cheap and cheap parts are not good. on another personal note. I love these trucks! restoring an all American truck with cheap imported parts just feels wrong. when I'm standing beside something I built, i want to be as proud as forrest gump on his wedding day:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

Thanks for the tips and detailed description. Where do you usually purchase the sheet metal from and do you replace with thicker sheet metal then was there originally or use the same gauge?

I am with you on restoring the original parts if possible. It makes the truck more original and special then a half Chinese made truck. I would like to form a patch for the passenger side fender to replace the rotted out lower corner. The challenge is it is curved and I never did sheet metal work or forming before. But I guess what a better time to learn?

not exactly. when you see a pinhole, you think " I can tack that" then you hit it and it becomes a 3/8" gap. this happens often because as usual these rust from the inside out. poor sealing from the factory due to the inability to paint well on the inside. there is barely anything in there. that said, when you see a pin hole its most likely a dime sized on the inside. its best to cut out an area larger enough to assess the steel. Then make a small metal patch slightly smaller and hold it in place with a magnet or two. then tack it in place. do this slowly while tacking against the last tack building as you go but moving around to allow the steel to draw out the heat and not just creating one super-hot spot. too much heat will cause warpage. be patient! I cannot emphasize that enough. sheet metal welding is much more challenging than heavier stock.

the one I consider a repair as an example, is fairly perforated at the bottom. it required a section or two to be cut out and reconstructed. it will be nice when I'm done but it is taking a lot more work. one minor plus is that by cutting out a larger window I can spray a much better coat of "weld through" primer inside and on the filler, piece too then weld it in.

I know may will just say get a new one but good parts are not cheap and cheap parts are not good. on another personal note. I love these trucks! restoring an all American truck with cheap imported parts just feels wrong. when I'm standing beside something I built, i want to be as proud as forrest gump on his wedding day:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

 

[mat in tn]

Thanks for the tips and detailed description. Where do you usually purchase the sheet metal from and do you replace with thicker sheet metal then was there originally or use the same gauge?

I am with you on restoring the original parts if possible. It makes the truck more original and special then a half Chinese made truck. I would like to form a patch for the passenger side fender to replace the rotted out lower corner. The challenge is it is curved and I never did sheet metal work or forming before. But I guess what a better time to learn?

not exactly. when you see a pinhole, you think " I can tack that" then you hit it and it becomes a 3/8" gap. this happens often because as usual these rust from the inside out. poor sealing from the factory due to the inability to paint well on the inside. there is barely anything in there. that said, when you see a pin hole its most likely a dime sized on the inside. its best to cut out an area larger enough to assess the steel. Then make a small metal patch slightly smaller and hold it in place with a magnet or two. then tack it in place. do this slowly while tacking against the last tack building as you go but moving around to allow the steel to draw out the heat and not just creating one super-hot spot. too much heat will cause warpage. be patient! I cannot emphasize that enough. sheet metal welding is much more challenging than heavier stock.

the one I consider a repair as an example, is fairly perforated at the bottom. it required a section or two to be cut out and reconstructed. it will be nice when I'm done but it is taking a lot more work. one minor plus is that by cutting out a larger window I can spray a much better coat of "weld through" primer inside and on the filler, piece too then weld it in.

I know may will just say get a new one but good parts are not cheap and cheap parts are not good. on another personal note. I love these trucks! restoring an all American truck with cheap imported parts just feels wrong. when I'm standing beside something I built, i want to be as proud as forrest gump on his wedding day:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

if you are referring to the lower area in front of the front wheel then there is nothing but curves. however, the smaller of a patch that you can get by with, the easier it is to form. there will be fewer compound angles to make. sometimes it's even worth it to get a damaged fender in a junk yard to cut patches from if you can.

all that's really necessary is that the metal that you need is good. who cares if there is a dent or rust in an area that you don't need? the real benefit is that you know it's good steel and the same gauge. make clean cuts. you really want a little gap to fill when seaming them together. don't try to make them too tight before welding. there should be a hairline gap to fill as you stitch them together

[Jonathan]

if you are referring to the lower area in front of the front wheel then there is nothing but curves. however, the smaller of a patch that you can get by with, the easier it is to form. there will be fewer compound angles to make. sometimes it's even worth it to get a damaged fender in a junk yard to cut patches from if you can.

all that's really necessary is that the metal that you need is good. who cares if there is a dent or rust in an area that you don't need? the real benefit is that you know it's good steel and the same gauge. make clean cuts. you really want a little gap to fill when seaming them together. don't try to make them too tight before welding. there should be a hairline gap to fill as you stitch them together

Thanks for getting back to me with further details. I will try to source a original fender from the salvage yard to use.

if you are referring to the lower area in front of the front wheel then there is nothing but curves. however, the smaller of a patch that you can get by with, the easier it is to form. there will be fewer compound angles to make. sometimes it's even worth it to get a damaged fender in a junk yard to cut patches from if you can.

all that's really necessary is that the metal that you need is good. who cares if there is a dent or rust in an area that you don't need? the real benefit is that you know it's good steel and the same gauge. make clean cuts. you really want a little gap to fill when seaming them together. don't try to make them too tight before welding. there should be a hairline gap to fill as you stitch them together

 

[Jonathan]

Thanks for getting back to me with further details. I will try to source a original fender from the salvage yard to use.

if you are referring to the lower area in front of the front wheel then there is nothing but curves. however, the smaller of a patch that you can get by with, the easier it is to form. there will be fewer compound angles to make. sometimes it's even worth it to get a damaged fender in a junk yard to cut patches from if you can.

all that's really necessary is that the metal that you need is good. who cares if there is a dent or rust in an area that you don't need? the real benefit is that you know it's good steel and the same gauge. make clean cuts. you really want a little gap to fill when seaming them together. don't try to make them too tight before welding. there should be a hairline gap to fill as you stitch them together

If I found a truck at the salvage yard with speed control what items do I need to remove from the truck to get it working in my truck? My list so far is the steering wheel pad and speed control servo.

[Gary Lewis]

If I found a truck at the salvage yard with speed control what items do I need to remove from the truck to get it working in my truck? My list so far is the steering wheel pad and speed control servo.

You also need the amplifier that is under the dash left of the ash tray as well as the wiring. And the wiring includes an add-on jumper that connects to the curved connectors on the steering column. Plus you need the horn relay that is on the bracket for the amplifier, the vacuum dump valve, the clutch switch, and the speed sensor.

You can see most of that stuff in this page from the 1985 EVTM:

[Jonathan]

You also need the amplifier that is under the dash left of the ash tray as well as the wiring. And the wiring includes an add-on jumper that connects to the curved connectors on the steering column. Plus you need the horn relay that is on the bracket for the amplifier, the vacuum dump valve, the clutch switch, and the speed sensor.

You can see most of that stuff in this page from the 1985 EVTM:

Thank you for your help Gary. Is the wiring I need with the vacuum hose going through the firewall? Do I just pull out that whole thing going through the firewall with the wiring attached? Is only the hose going through the firewall or is there wiring connected in the engine bay also? I can't tell for sure looking at the picture.

You also need the amplifier that is under the dash left of the ash tray as well as the wiring. And the wiring includes an add-on jumper that connects to the curved connectors on the steering column. Plus you need the horn relay that is on the bracket for the amplifier, the vacuum dump valve, the clutch switch, and the speed sensor.

You can see most of that stuff in this page from the 1985 EVTM:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thank you for your help Gary. Is the wiring I need with the vacuum hose going through the firewall? Do I just pull out that whole thing going through the firewall with the wiring attached? Is only the hose going through the firewall or is there wiring connected in the engine bay also? I can't tell for sure looking at the picture.

You also need the amplifier that is under the dash left of the ash tray as well as the wiring. And the wiring includes an add-on jumper that connects to the curved connectors on the steering column. Plus you need the horn relay that is on the bracket for the amplifier, the vacuum dump valve, the clutch switch, and the speed sensor.

You can see most of that stuff in this page from the 1985 EVTM:

I think there's wiring taped to the hose, and both go through the grommet. So you should be able to push the grommet through the firewall and get everything in one go.

[Jonathan]

I think there's wiring taped to the hose, and both go through the grommet. So you should be able to push the grommet through the firewall and get everything in one go.

Will these parts be universal among all the Ford truck makes from 80-86 including the Bronco?

I think there's wiring taped to the hose, and both go through the grommet. So you should be able to push the grommet through the firewall and get everything in one go.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Will these parts be universal among all the Ford truck makes from 80-86 including the Bronco?

I think there's wiring taped to the hose, and both go through the grommet. So you should be able to push the grommet through the firewall and get everything in one go.

All of the parts are universal save for the bracket. The servo was mounted in different positions depending on the engine. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Speed Control and then the Instructions tab to see the factory shop manual section that will probably answer your questions.