Gary Lewis Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 My garage is fairly level. Just not sure if I can get both sets of wheels inside. I would have to clean up the garage a lot. I can't even park a car in there right now. If I can get the cab square to the truck bed I think everything else may take care of itself I hope. As long as it is torqued to spec to the truck frame. As you mentioned I guess it is designed to flex. Bend or break as they say. The frame is always going to flex. That's why there are resilient mounts, and the members are riveted. I've seen trucks tear themselves apart when some tinkerer decides to "improve" things or get rid of a creak by welding. Yeah, ideally you would park on a flat slab. (Anyone want to talk about things like the floor in Boeing's assembly buildings? 🤔) 😂 I think you'll be fine tightening it down while watching the space to the bed and the alignment of the creases to those on the bed. And, as you said, you can always adjust it again later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 I think you'll be fine tightening it down while watching the space to the bed and the alignment of the creases to those on the bed. And, as you said, you can always adjust it again later. Gary, can you clarify why you mean by alignment of the creases? Do you mean the body line on the bed and the cab? Is that where shims may be required? I think you'll be fine tightening it down while watching the space to the bed and the alignment of the creases to those on the bed. And, as you said, you can always adjust it again later. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 Gary, can you clarify why you mean by alignment of the creases? Do you mean the body line on the bed and the cab? Is that where shims may be required? I think you'll be fine tightening it down while watching the space to the bed and the alignment of the creases to those on the bed. And, as you said, you can always adjust it again later. Yes, the body lines. But my body man said he adjusts the cab to the bed with the cab mounting bolts - tightening or loosening them to get alignment. Then he adjusts the fenders with shims, both at the rear where they mount to the cab and on the radiator support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Yes, the body lines. But my body man said he adjusts the cab to the bed with the cab mounting bolts - tightening or loosening them to get alignment. Then he adjusts the fenders with shims, both at the rear where they mount to the cab and on the radiator support. Thanks for the details. I need to find a way to move the cab over more toward the passenger side. It is really hard to push. More of the cab is sticking out from the bed on the drivers side. I tried ramming it with my shoulder but it is not budging. I put the bolts in loose in the hole and removed the 1/2 extensions so its not that stopping it. I just don't have enough force. Yes, the body lines. But my body man said he adjusts the cab to the bed with the cab mounting bolts - tightening or loosening them to get alignment. Then he adjusts the fenders with shims, both at the rear where they mount to the cab and on the radiator support. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 Thanks for the details. I need to find a way to move the cab over more toward the passenger side. It is really hard to push. More of the cab is sticking out from the bed on the drivers side. I tried ramming it with my shoulder but it is not budging. I put the bolts in loose in the hole and removed the 1/2 extensions so its not that stopping it. I just don't have enough force. Yes, the body lines. But my body man said he adjusts the cab to the bed with the cab mounting bolts - tightening or loosening them to get alignment. Then he adjusts the fenders with shims, both at the rear where they mount to the cab and on the radiator support. If it isn't going to line up I think I'd bolt it down and drive it to some place more level. Then adjust it there. Perhaps you have the frame in a bind somehow and getting it on all fours and driving it might relieve that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 If it isn't going to line up I think I'd bolt it down and drive it to some place more level. Then adjust it there. Perhaps you have the frame in a bind somehow and getting it on all fours and driving it might relieve that. Thanks, I will try that after I give it another shot. I may try to lift one side with a jack and then push so there is less weight on the frame. If it isn't going to line up I think I'd bolt it down and drive it to some place more level. Then adjust it there. Perhaps you have the frame in a bind somehow and getting it on all fours and driving it might relieve that. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 I got the new bushings in but after struggling for hours to get the cab lined up I stopped for the day. Sometimes you need to step away to think about what you are doing. I believe I was fighting myself because the 1/2 ratchet extension in the front drivers side cab mount does not have enough wiggle room like the 7/16 bolt. So I kept trying to pull the passenger side back and couldn't. I even used a ratchet strap with no luck. I planned to go back to work on it on Sunday to see if it was the ratchet extension causing the problem but after cutting the grass and grocery shopping I was too beat. The threaded part of the bushing hardware finished its 24 hour rust soaking. After cleaning up I sprayed on rust protection. Now I just need to get the cab lined up and tighten it down. Sounds easy in words but in reality I am struggling with it. I also treated the drivers side pass through for the rear cab mount. It is ready to install the bolt and oversized fender washer. At a later date the whole floor will be cleaned, rust removed and prepped for sound isolation matting. More brittle door molding came off again. I need to order all new seals because the cab gets soaked inside every time it rains. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 The threaded part of the bushing hardware finished its 24 hour rust soaking. After cleaning up I sprayed on rust protection. Now I just need to get the cab lined up and tighten it down. Sounds easy in words but in reality I am struggling with it. I also treated the drivers side pass through for the rear cab mount. It is ready to install the bolt and oversized fender washer. At a later date the whole floor will be cleaned, rust removed and prepped for sound isolation matting. More brittle door molding came off again. I need to order all new seals because the cab gets soaked inside every time it rains. What is the distance spec between the cab and the bed? Is it 1.30 inches or 1.58 inches? And what does the number above it mean? https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-body-builders.html  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 What is the distance spec between the cab and the bed? Is it 1.30 inches or 1.58 inches? And what does the number above it mean? https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1985-body-builders.html Looks like 1.30"/33mm for the top of the box, and 1.58"/40mm at the bottom. I tried measuring those dimensions on Big Blue, but it ain't easy. However, they are different, top and bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 Looks like 1.30"/33mm for the top of the box, and 1.58"/40mm at the bottom. I tried measuring those dimensions on Big Blue, but it ain't easy. However, they are different, top and bottom. Great thanks! That gives me a good starting point. At least I have a rough goal now. Looks like 1.30"/33mm for the top of the box, and 1.58"/40mm at the bottom. I tried measuring those dimensions on Big Blue, but it ain't easy. However, they are different, top and bottom. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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