1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Yes, this thread is EPIC! And you are learning a lot.

I'm not a machinist, but I do machine work. And .025" is way beyond an interference fit. More like .0025". But you aren't working with the types of parts that are typically thought to have interference fits. They are usually solid so there's no compression to speak of. But you have a tube that can compress, and there's rubber inside of it that'll give.

So it isn't unusual for bushings to be that much larger than the component they are going into. And with that HF press, and a bit of lube, that bushing should go right in. I have the same kit and have done several of the bushings, and they have all gone in. But I use a small wire wheel to clean the inside of the radius arm and a round file to smooth any gouges.

Thank you for the feedback Gary. I was worried about the fit. I guess I will find out when I install the bushing how tight it is. Using your recommendation I will clean the inside of the bushing hole and use some lube. Should I use anti-seize or another type of lubricant?

Yes, this thread is EPIC! And you are learning a lot.

I'm not a machinist, but I do machine work. And .025" is way beyond an interference fit. More like .0025". But you aren't working with the types of parts that are typically thought to have interference fits. They are usually solid so there's no compression to speak of. But you have a tube that can compress, and there's rubber inside of it that'll give.

So it isn't unusual for bushings to be that much larger than the component they are going into. And with that HF press, and a bit of lube, that bushing should go right in. I have the same kit and have done several of the bushings, and they have all gone in. But I use a small wire wheel to clean the inside of the radius arm and a round file to smooth any gouges.

 

[Jonathan]

Jonathan, come back - would love more updates and documentation on your truck.

Thanks Randy, I have been making slow progress. It didn't feel update worthy so I will do more updates at once. My free time has been more limited also.

Jonathan, come back - would love more updates and documentation on your truck.

 

[Jonathan]

Agree with Gary, in that .025 is wayyyy beyond interference fit. But, that is metal to metal, not a rubber bushing to metal. Typically, depending on materials, .002" is a good press fit for metal to metal. Also, and just fyi, when working on tight tolerances measurements need to be taken with a micrometer, not a set of vernier calipers. There is also a procedure for properly using those telescopic bore gauges, so you might want to look into that. Great post, looking forward to how it all plays out for you.

Thanks for your feedback and tips John. I hope to get better at machining type work and always looking for recommendations.

[Jonathan]

i put new stock height coils on my truck and it raised it at least two inches. If you have king pins make sure there is a shop that has tooling to bend axles for alignment. I would also replace leaf springs prior to alignment. If they are sagging then expect a couple inches to be raised in the back as well.

I have king pins. Thank you for the tip. I just assumed that the alignment was limited, I didn't know you can bend axles. I will look into that. When I start to work on the rears I will probably replace the leaf springs. I live in NC and don't want to be associated with those strange looking Carolina squat trucks that look like they are about to take off.

i put new stock height coils on my truck and it raised it at least two inches. If you have king pins make sure there is a shop that has tooling to bend axles for alignment. I would also replace leaf springs prior to alignment. If they are sagging then expect a couple inches to be raised in the back as well.

 

[rcarlisle]

I have king pins. Thank you for the tip. I just assumed that the alignment was limited, I didn't know you can bend axles. I will look into that. When I start to work on the rears I will probably replace the leaf springs. I live in NC and don't want to be associated with those strange looking Carolina squat trucks that look like they are about to take off.

i put new stock height coils on my truck and it raised it at least two inches. If you have king pins make sure there is a shop that has tooling to bend axles for alignment. I would also replace leaf springs prior to alignment. If they are sagging then expect a couple inches to be raised in the back as well.

I guess there is someone in NC that can bend those axles - I've read an old street rodder magazine articlae about bending the old front beam axles. Not a job for the faint hearted or unexperienced. And requires a dang heavy press.

When I took the coilover helper shoncks off the back, my rear lowered to where I have maybe an inch higher rake in the back. But my springs are probably weak. The instant drop when I removed the coilovers while laying under the truck was a bit disconcerting. My wife thought I was crushed by truck. I did save those, "Just in case"

Glad you are back. Hope to see more progress soon.

[Gary Lewis]

Thank you for the feedback Gary. I was worried about the fit. I guess I will find out when I install the bushing how tight it is. Using your recommendation I will clean the inside of the bushing hole and use some lube. Should I use anti-seize or another type of lubricant?

Yes, this thread is EPIC! And you are learning a lot.

I'm not a machinist, but I do machine work. And .025" is way beyond an interference fit. More like .0025". But you aren't working with the types of parts that are typically thought to have interference fits. They are usually solid so there's no compression to speak of. But you have a tube that can compress, and there's rubber inside of it that'll give.

So it isn't unusual for bushings to be that much larger than the component they are going into. And with that HF press, and a bit of lube, that bushing should go right in. I have the same kit and have done several of the bushings, and they have all gone in. But I use a small wire wheel to clean the inside of the radius arm and a round file to smooth any gouges.

I think anti-seize would be my choice of lube.

[Jonathan]

I guess there is someone in NC that can bend those axles - I've read an old street rodder magazine articlae about bending the old front beam axles. Not a job for the faint hearted or unexperienced. And requires a dang heavy press.

When I took the coilover helper shoncks off the back, my rear lowered to where I have maybe an inch higher rake in the back. But my springs are probably weak. The instant drop when I removed the coilovers while laying under the truck was a bit disconcerting. My wife thought I was crushed by truck. I did save those, "Just in case"

Glad you are back. Hope to see more progress soon.

I finally found a Made in Turkey bushing after calling around to local auto parts stores. I sent back all the failed attempts on getting one from Amazon.

[rcarlisle]

I finally found a Made in Turkey bushing after calling around to local auto parts stores. I sent back all the failed attempts on getting one from Amazon.

wow. just wow at your dedication.

 

[Jonathan]

I finally found a Made in Turkey bushing after calling around to local auto parts stores. I sent back all the failed attempts on getting one from Amazon.

I started to clean up the frame in just the wheel well area to get ready for paint. (A month long process) I also removed the old rubber bumper. The new rubber bumper I got from Lots of Mismatching Crap (LMC) is not tapped out with threads for some reason. So I will need to tap it before installing. It was held on by a T-40 head screw which was hard to identify because it was full of dirt and I couldn't get a good look at it.

[Jonathan]

I started to clean up the frame in just the wheel well area to get ready for paint. (A month long process) I also removed the old rubber bumper. The new rubber bumper I got from Lots of Mismatching Crap (LMC) is not tapped out with threads for some reason. So I will need to tap it before installing. It was held on by a T-40 head screw which was hard to identify because it was full of dirt and I couldn't get a good look at it.

A little more slow progress in removing years of mostly surface rust. There is some mild pitting but the frame is very thick so has some metal to spare I think. The rubber isolators are all very bad looking like this one.