Must Do Truck Upgrades?

[Jordanlogo]

Hello everyone!

New member here so I just wanted to ask what your top “must-do” upgrades are for your truck.

If you could start over again, what would you tell your past self to start with?

Thanks!

Here she is so far:

All I’ve done so far is:

- Oil change

- Coolant flush

- LED headlights

- LED dashboard lights

- Aftermarket stereo/speakers

- Wash and polish

[kramttocs]

Take a look here for some common ones.

One thing that every new Bullnose owner should do is remove the kickpanels and inspect/clean out behind them.

Also, pull out the resistor on the hvac box in the engine bay and ensure it's clean of debris.

[Jordanlogo]

Take a look here for some common ones.

One thing that every new Bullnose owner should do is remove the kickpanels and inspect/clean out behind them.

Also, pull out the resistor on the hvac box in the engine bay and ensure it's clean of debris.

Thanks! Great suggestions. I’ll be sure to check out that post.

[Gary Lewis]

Jordan - Which LED headlights did you go with? Are you happy with them?

Regarding Scott's suggestion of pulling the HVAC resistor, that is a MUST. But you might find it helpful to not only pull the resistor but also pull the motor. Just takes a few screws to get it out and it gives even more access into the innards of the plenum.

I've forgotten what year your truck is already. So it would be helpful if you put some details about it in a signature, instructions for which can be found on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page.

But the reason the year is important is that the 1986 trucks came with the dreaded 2G alternators. It has been called the Firestarter by some due to a connection problem it had. So if yours is an '86 you should read 2G ALTERNATOR REPAIR: TSB 96-21-4.

[Jordanlogo]

Jordan - Which LED headlights did you go with? Are you happy with them?

Regarding Scott's suggestion of pulling the HVAC resistor, that is a MUST. But you might find it helpful to not only pull the resistor but also pull the motor. Just takes a few screws to get it out and it gives even more access into the innards of the plenum.

I've forgotten what year your truck is already. So it would be helpful if you put some details about it in a signature, instructions for which can be found on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page.

But the reason the year is important is that the 1986 trucks came with the dreaded 2G alternators. It has been called the Firestarter by some due to a connection problem it had. So if yours is an '86 you should read 2G ALTERNATOR REPAIR: TSB 96-21-4.

For the LED headlights I just went with a company called Kaslight on Amazon - part #H6054. They’re only $55 and they’re BRIGHT! Best thing is, they’re plug and play.

An alternator is definitely one of my next things I want to do. While I don’t think I have a 2G, I’m pretty sure my amperage is very low.

Actually, on that note, would I just be able to install a one wire alternator? Seems so much easier than trying to find a 3G. My only concern is trying to find an alternator that actually fits in the stock bracket. Do you know of any brands that fit right off the bat?

Also, while we’re talking about electrical, I just installed an aftermarket stereo and after putting everything back together and starting up the truck, my volt gauge on the dash is pinned on the high side. Malfunction? What could have caused that?

The truck runs perfectly fine so I’m confused

[Gary Lewis]

For the LED headlights I just went with a company called Kaslight on Amazon - part #H6054. They’re only $55 and they’re BRIGHT! Best thing is, they’re plug and play.

An alternator is definitely one of my next things I want to do. While I don’t think I have a 2G, I’m pretty sure my amperage is very low.

Actually, on that note, would I just be able to install a one wire alternator? Seems so much easier than trying to find a 3G. My only concern is trying to find an alternator that actually fits in the stock bracket. Do you know of any brands that fit right off the bat?

Also, while we’re talking about electrical, I just installed an aftermarket stereo and after putting everything back together and starting up the truck, my volt gauge on the dash is pinned on the high side. Malfunction? What could have caused that?

The truck runs perfectly fine so I’m confused

Glad the headlights are working for you. There is a lot of junk out there so you have to be careful.

On the alternator, I don't know much about the 1-wire units. But I very much dislike the Powermaster brand. I have one in a box I'll give you, but it has something wrong in it and they don't sell parts. You have to ship it back to them. I highly prefer an off the shelf unit you can get at any parts store so if it goes out on a trip you aren't stuck.

As for finding a 3G, you can order one from DB Electric. But you should make some wiring changes, as discussed on the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion.

Which leads me to your question about the "voltmeter". It isn't a voltmeter, it is an ammeter. And my guess is that you pulled the battery down quite a bit during the installation of the stereo and the regulator is trying to charge it. But, it shouldn't do that for very long, and should only do that when the engine speed is above idle.

So tell us more about what is going on?

[rcarlisle]

Nice truck. You should do several gas changes. The way you do that is get in and drive til it needs more. Put some in. Drive some more.

You've covered the oil and coolant. Good start. How are the brakes? Might want to check those.

[kramttocs]

Glad the headlights are working for you. There is a lot of junk out there so you have to be careful.

On the alternator, I don't know much about the 1-wire units. But I very much dislike the Powermaster brand. I have one in a box I'll give you, but it has something wrong in it and they don't sell parts. You have to ship it back to them. I highly prefer an off the shelf unit you can get at any parts store so if it goes out on a trip you aren't stuck.

As for finding a 3G, you can order one from DB Electric. But you should make some wiring changes, as discussed on the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion.

Which leads me to your question about the "voltmeter". It isn't a voltmeter, it is an ammeter. And my guess is that you pulled the battery down quite a bit during the installation of the stereo and the regulator is trying to charge it. But, it shouldn't do that for very long, and should only do that when the engine speed is above idle.

So tell us more about what is going on?

I have had mixed results with Powermaster starters but so far no complaints on the 1 wire alt of theirs that I am using. It's called a Ford Upgrade. Pros and cons with everything but based on my experience I wouldn't have a problem recommending it. Not sure what motor you have but you will want to ensure you will also hit the rpm threshold when starting.

Additionally, for anyone going this route, it would be best to get a spare alt harness that you cut up so that in a pinch you can swap back to an off the shelf offering like Gary stated.

While I wouldn't have a problem recommending the 1 wire, I'd second the 3G as the better option for most situations.

[Gary Lewis]

I have had mixed results with Powermaster starters but so far no complaints on the 1 wire alt of theirs that I am using. It's called a Ford Upgrade. Pros and cons with everything but based on my experience I wouldn't have a problem recommending it. Not sure what motor you have but you will want to ensure you will also hit the rpm threshold when starting. Additionally, for anyone going this route, it would be best to get a spare alt harness that you cut up so that in a pinch you can swap back to an off the shelf offering like Gary stated. While I wouldn't have a problem recommending the 1 wire, I'd second the 3G as the better option for most situations.

Scott - On the "rpm threshold" do you mean that you have to pick which alternator to use or which pulley to use in order to have the alternator kick in at idle?

 

And on the harness, you are suggesting carrying a spare harness with you on trips so you can go back to a 1G when the Powermaster fails? So, you'd walk into a parts store and buy a new 1G and regulator? Or carry all that with you as well as the harness?

 

(Jordan - Scott and I know each other pretty well, and I like to think we are good friends. So don't think we are mad at each other or something.)

[Machspeed]

Nice looking truck! Is that original paint? Since joining here, I've done most of the improvement mods that Scott posted above. The 3G alternator mod was a must do for me, as the old 2G is prone to fires. You definitely want to do the headlight mod as well.....simple harness, almost plug and play.