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Randy's doggone HVAC thread...


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Thanks. Your sig has a quote in it that I hope won't apply in this case. I usually don't have issues taking cars apart, but after finding how brittle these plastics are, it gets frightful.

I had similar issues when I started into my AC system, and also had to drop the dash. The thing I didn't realize was, the dashboard is in two pieces, the plastic fascia and the metal frame underneath. Well OK I knew that. What I didn't know was that the plastic fascia does not separate from the metal frame without the whole thing being removed from the vehicle first. So I spent a lot of time removing screws that held the fascia to the metal frame, but all I needed to remove was the few bolts that held the whole metal frame on. This is from memory but here is what I did:

1. remove the little piece of the dash that goes under the steering column

2. drop the steering column

3. Remove dash pad, instrument cluster, radio fascia (not the radio itself, or the HVAC panel. just the plastic cover over them that says "ranger" or "xlt" or whatever trim level your truck is)

4. Remove the two bolts near the base of the windshield on either side

5. Remove the bolts from the metal support bars that extend from the firewall to the underside of the dash

6. Two bolts in the kick panel area, one on each side. One side is visible without removing the plastic kick panel, one side you have to remove it to see the bolt. I can't remember for sure which side is which but I think you have to remove the passenger side.

7. I think you have to remove the 4 screws that hold the HVAC panel in place, so the dash can separate from it. But there is no need to remove the panel itself, it can hang there while you remove the dash from around it.

8. I removed my radio as well, but I'm not 100% sure that was necessary.

That was pretty much it, the dash came out after that. I'm sure I may be forgetting a step or two, but it should become obvious if I am. It really wasn't that difficult and didn't take as long as I thought it would.

So I did all that because I had visually verified my vacuum motors were all working - I could look under the dash and see the arm moving in the correct direction with each different setting of the HVAC panel. But what had happened on my truck was that one of the doors had separated from its "hinge". Wasn't really a hinge, but a thin place in the plastic where it could bend. So the arm was moving the door, but since it wasn't hinged, it was just kind of sliding back and forth instead of opening and closing. I later found those doors at a Bronco place for like $108 or so. But I didn't know they were available and didn't feel like waiting on shipping, so I repaired in myself. Crudely, but it works. More info in this thread.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Help-needed-with-HVAC-vacuum-harness-tp93801p93992.html

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