Rembrant Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 Below is a picture of the plug that I started the thread about in the first place. One of the spades came out with the other end of the connector. Corroded and broken. I'm just going to chop the bugger off and bypass it. This is the plug that sits right below the voltage reg and starter solenoid. Future plans are to remove all of this stuff. I know a 3G alternator will get rid of the voltage reg on the fender correct? What about the starter solenoid...is there a starter swap that deletes the external solenoid as well? Back a little further on the passenger fender just in front of the heater box, I was cleaning up the harness and removing loose electrical tape, and found some old repairs that were held together with said tape. Is there something missing here...or any idea why this was done? (A well known problem perhaps?). I guess I'll go digging in my manuals and see if I have a wiring diagram of this harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 Below is a picture of the plug that I started the thread about in the first place. One of the spades came out with the other end of the connector. Corroded and broken. I'm just going to chop the bugger off and bypass it. This is the plug that sits right below the voltage reg and starter solenoid. Future plans are to remove all of this stuff. I know a 3G alternator will get rid of the voltage reg on the fender correct? What about the starter solenoid...is there a starter swap that deletes the external solenoid as well? Back a little further on the passenger fender just in front of the heater box, I was cleaning up the harness and removing loose electrical tape, and found some old repairs that were held together with said tape. Is there something missing here...or any idea why this was done? (A well known problem perhaps?). I guess I'll go digging in my manuals and see if I have a wiring diagram of this harness. Yes, a 3G swap does away with the external voltage regulator on the fender. But a starter swap to a PMGR starter doesn't really do away with the need for some kind of a relay. However, you certainly don't need something the size of the starter relay/solenoid you now have. Bill says the heavy duty Bosch style relays are enough to bring the starter-mounted relay in, and I'm going to go with way with my trucks. But, I haven't done so yet so don't have anything to show you. However, do you really need to get rid of yours? As for that wiring, what was missing when it was done was intelligence. The red/black wire has a feed and fuse holder for some new accessory, like a radio. Presumably the green/black wire had a tap on it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 As for that wiring, what was missing when it was done was intelligence. The red/black wire has a feed and fuse holder for some new accessory, like a radio. Presumably the green/black wire had a tap on it as well. Ok, here's the scoop. I know what was done, but I'm still not 100% sure why... There is a 250v/7a fuse in that holder, and the wire is a jumper between red/black wire that goes to the headlight, and a black/red wire that goes to the blower motor. The green/black wire that is also stripped goes to the headlight as well. I wonder if this was a homegrown method of creating daytime running lights? My truck has the low beam lights on all the time when the truck is running, even when the light switch is off. Presumably, they tapped into the green/black wire first only to find out it was the high beam, and then switched to the red/black which is the low beam? The black/red wire going to the blower motor, is it 12v+ all the time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 As for that wiring, what was missing when it was done was intelligence. The red/black wire has a feed and fuse holder for some new accessory, like a radio. Presumably the green/black wire had a tap on it as well. Ok, here's the scoop. I know what was done, but I'm still not 100% sure why... There is a 250v/7a fuse in that holder, and the wire is a jumper between red/black wire that goes to the headlight, and a black/red wire that goes to the blower motor. The green/black wire that is also stripped goes to the headlight as well. I wonder if this was a homegrown method of creating daytime running lights? My truck has the low beam lights on all the time when the truck is running, even when the light switch is off. Presumably, they tapped into the green/black wire first only to find out it was the high beam, and then switched to the red/black which is the low beam? The black/red wire going to the blower motor, is it 12v+ all the time? From what I remember blower 12V feed is hot in run and accessory. It would work, but... Damn if I would have done it that way. The factory DRL system is kind of weird in it's own way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 It would work, but... Damn if I would have done it that way. Yeah, I wouldn't have done it that way either. Anyhow, I'm going to remove the jumper and clean up the wiring. I guess I'll find out later if its OK when the truck is back up and running. Thanks for the help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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