Gary Lewis Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Yep, that all makes sense. THe master cyl looks good and newer than the booster. THe pedal doesn't leak down to floor so I am hoping the master is still good. But yes, if this doesn't fix it, I will spend $30 more for a new master. I really dislike the bleeding process, especially the bench bleed. But I do have a vise now which I didn't last time I tried that. I saw the diagram with .995" of rod sticking out. I will confirm that on new one - wish I had seen that yesterday while I was in to the existing one. But it's pretty crusty so a new one can't hurt. Good new brake parts are never a bad thing. I hope the brakes are in good condition. I haven't done drums in a long time. May have to invest in a drum brake tool set - had one - think it was borrowed and never came back. Just makes it easier than screw drivers and pliers. No wobbles when I mash brakes so hopefully rotors and pads still good. I think I am going to concentrate on getting hte brakes all sorted. And work on other projects I've ordered parts from. Get that brake system fixed where I don't have to worry about it anymore. Then can concentrate on other parts. If you do decide to replace the master I'd recommend going with the later model one that has a plastic reservoir. They don't leak at the cap the way the cast iron ones frequently do and you can see how much fluid you have. In addition, it is easy to bleed the brakes on them as you can modify a cap and put a few psi of air pressure on the reservoir and then pressure-bleed the brakes. Open a bleeder valve until you don't get air bubbles and you have clean fluid. I use a pressure regulator and my shop compressed air, but others have used a garden sprayer to pump up a little bit of pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlisle Posted March 20, 2021 Author Share Posted March 20, 2021 If you do decide to replace the master I'd recommend going with the later model one that has a plastic reservoir. They don't leak at the cap the way the cast iron ones frequently do and you can see how much fluid you have. In addition, it is easy to bleed the brakes on them as you can modify a cap and put a few psi of air pressure on the reservoir and then pressure-bleed the brakes. Open a bleeder valve until you don't get air bubbles and you have clean fluid. I use a pressure regulator and my shop compressed air, but others have used a garden sprayer to pump up a little bit of pressure. FIXED! Booster cured that issue. Now just feels like it might need pads/shoes soon. Pedal is lower than I'm used to but it is old, too. But it definitely has predictable brakes now. And that was pretty easy to replace. Just like all the videos show. Only difference was the end of booster shaft end up turned down instead. No way it was going on pedal pin with it turned up. Thanks for all the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 FIXED! Booster cured that issue. Now just feels like it might need pads/shoes soon. Pedal is lower than I'm used to but it is old, too. But it definitely has predictable brakes now. And that was pretty easy to replace. Just like all the videos show. Only difference was the end of booster shaft end up turned down instead. No way it was going on pedal pin with it turned up. Thanks for all the input. Glad it fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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