Installing A Code Alarm ca1155e Security System

[Gary Lewis]

This thread is to work through the wiring I'm going to do for my security system, which is a Code Alarm ca1155e. (No, I'm not going to divulge all of my secrets here.)

And first up is the wiring for the bed cover. Yes, the bed cover I'm going to install, a Pace Edwards Bed Locker, has an electric motor to roll it out and back. (I'm sure some of you are rolling your eyes, but the decision is made so...) It has an optional switch, # BL1120, that plugs into the controller and can be mounted in the cab. But it is just two wires and a SPDT center-off switch. And the instructions say to ground the center terminal and connect the wires to the top and bottom terminals of the switch. In other words, all it takes is a ground to make the cover open or close.

The security system has two negative-going outputs that I'll use, described in a bit, and each can sink 300ma. So I could have them pull in two relays to provide a close or open signal to the cover. However Tony, the tech at Pace Edwards, said he thinks the two wires may be just pulling in relays on their board, so it is possible that I can connect the Code Alarm's outputs directly to the Bed Locker's inputs. He's sending me pics of the circuit board, which may let me figure that out, but if not I'll just measure the current once I get the cover.

Those two outputs are Aux 1 Output and Trunk Release Output, shown below. Note that both have a "P" with them, and as the note says that means they can be programmed. In the case of the Trunk Release, which is operated by a single button on the remote, and the programming options are 1 Sec; 10 Sec; 20 Sec; Latched until IGN ON; or Latched ON until Button Press. I'll use the latter, which should mean that the cover will open once I push the button and stop when I push it again.

The Aux 1 function is triggered by pressing both Lock & Unlock at the same time, and its programming options are Push and Hold; Latched; Latched until IGN ON; & Dome Light Ouput. I'll use Push & Hold so that the cover will close as long as you hold the buttons down.

And, that's how I plan to interface the Code Alarm ca1155e to a Pace Edwards Bed Locker.

[Gary Lewis]

Next up is the door lock/unlock wiring. Big Blue doesn't have any of the factory wiring, so I'm going to make it simple and use the Code Alarm system to do all the electric locking/unlocking and I'll use the pins in the doors to lock/unlock if I'm in the cab. In other words, I'm not going to install switches to control the locks, which will keep the wiring simple.

But the lock motors are 2-wire motors so you have to put 12v to one side and ground to the other to lock, and reverse that polarity to unlock. Fortunately the Code Alarm ca1155e makes that fairly easy as it has on-board lock relays, and while it handles the connections to terminals 85 & 86, the coils, you have full access to 30, 87, and 87a.

So I think I'll wire things as shown below, which means that:

• When the lock relay is pulled in the Green/Black wire will be at 12 volts and the Blue/Black wire will be at ground

• When the unlock relay is pulled in the Green/Black wire will be at ground and the Blue/Black wire will be at 12 volts

And the optional programming has to do with the length of time the relays are closed. The preset value is 1 second, which should be fine, but there are options from .5 seconds to 30 seconds if that needs to be changed.

[85lebaront2]

Next up is the door lock/unlock wiring. Big Blue doesn't have any of the factory wiring, so I'm going to make it simple and use the Code Alarm system to do all the electric locking/unlocking and I'll use the pins in the doors to lock/unlock if I'm in the cab. In other words, I'm not going to install switches to control the locks, which will keep the wiring simple.

But the lock motors are 2-wire motors so you have to put 12v to one side and ground to the other to lock, and reverse that polarity to unlock. Fortunately the Code Alarm ca1155e makes that fairly easy as it has on-board lock relays, and while it handles the connections to terminals 85 & 86, the coils, you have full access to 30, 87, and 87a.

So I think I'll wire things as shown below, which means that:

• When the lock relay is pulled in the Green/Black wire will be at 12 volts and the Blue/Black wire will be at ground

• When the unlock relay is pulled in the Green/Black wire will be at ground and the Blue/Black wire will be at 12 volts

And the optional programming has to do with the length of time the relays are closed. The preset value is 1 second, which should be fine, but there are options from .5 seconds to 30 seconds if that needs to be changed.

Pretty standard setup, just make sure your lock motors do not draw to much current for the relays in the alarm system.

Are you going to amaze people at the next Garage Mahal show by remotely rolling and unrolling the bed cover?

[Gary Lewis]

Pretty standard setup, just make sure your lock motors do not draw to much current for the relays in the alarm system.

Are you going to amaze people at the next Garage Mahal show by remotely rolling and unrolling the bed cover?

Thanks, Bill. As you see in the schematic, the inputs to the relays are fused at 15 amps, and those fuses and holders are from Code Alarm and are part of their wiring harness. I put a 10 amp fuse in a holder and powered one of my lock motors several times and never blew the fuse, so I think we are fine there.

EDIT: Yes, I'll amaze them.

Speaking of lock motors, I have several working lock motors from various trucks I've disassembled, and while most of them work, all of them have torn boots. In fact, some boots aren't even in existence anymore, and the very best one is shown below - and it has a gaping hole in the side.

I'm loathe to buy new lock motors just because the boots are bad because new ones that mount like the one below appear to be $45/ea. But I don't want to have to go back into the doors later because the rain and dirt killed a motor. Anyone have any ideas on what to use for boots?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bill. As you see in the schematic, the inputs to the relays are fused at 15 amps, and those fuses and holders are from Code Alarm and are part of their wiring harness. I put a 10 amp fuse in a holder and powered one of my lock motors several times and never blew the fuse, so I think we are fine there.

EDIT: Yes, I'll amaze them.

Speaking of lock motors, I have several working lock motors from various trucks I've disassembled, and while most of them work, all of them have torn boots. In fact, some boots aren't even in existence anymore, and the very best one is shown below - and it has a gaping hole in the side.

I'm loathe to buy new lock motors just because the boots are bad because new ones that mount like the one below appear to be $45/ea. But I don't want to have to go back into the doors later because the rain and dirt killed a motor. Anyone have any ideas on what to use for boots?

While awaiting everyone's recommendations on actuator motors, I'll move on to my plans on mounting the security module.

And that plan is to mount it in the area used by a mono speaker under the dash pad. As shown in the pic below, the device is tiny in comparison to the speaker opening, so I think I'll make a plate to screw to the screw holes for the speaker. But what would be kind of cool would be to gut an original 5 1/2 x 7 1/2" speaker and use it for the mounting. That would recess the module so it would easily clear the cover.

Unfortunately I don't have any of those speakers, so guess I'll make a plate. But I think I'll have to space a plate down somewhat for the module to clear the cover. And, I want enough room to put a bit of insulation over it so that when the sun is beating down on the dash it won't be fried.

Anyway, that mounting position will make it easy to wire up as most of the circuits I need are very close to that position. But it does look like I will have to run a few wires through the firewall for things like the siren, pin switches for the tool box, and controls to the bed cover.

[kramttocs]

While awaiting everyone's recommendations on actuator motors, I'll move on to my plans on mounting the security module.

And that plan is to mount it in the area used by a mono speaker under the dash pad. As shown in the pic below, the device is tiny in comparison to the speaker opening, so I think I'll make a plate to screw to the screw holes for the speaker. But what would be kind of cool would be to gut an original 5 1/2 x 7 1/2" speaker and use it for the mounting. That would recess the module so it would easily clear the cover.

Unfortunately I don't have any of those speakers, so guess I'll make a plate. But I think I'll have to space a plate down somewhat for the module to clear the cover. And, I want enough room to put a bit of insulation over it so that when the sun is beating down on the dash it won't be fried.

Anyway, that mounting position will make it easy to wire up as most of the circuits I need are very close to that position. But it does look like I will have to run a few wires through the firewall for things like the siren, pin switches for the tool box, and controls to the bed cover.

Subscribed and wow. That thing is tiny!

I ran into the same boot issue when trying to find some used ones for the 86 since it didn't come with power locks. Ended up just buying a set of aftermarket ones so don't have any good solutions for making the boot out of something else. Mine were a $25 for the pair.

Edit: these are the ones I bought and just used the factory mounting brackets

Edit 2: Those locks do not have a good success rate. Gary had 2 duds and I had 1. The best thing about them are the boots that you can use on factory locks.

[kramttocs]

Subscribed and wow. That thing is tiny!

I ran into the same boot issue when trying to find some used ones for the 86 since it didn't come with power locks. Ended up just buying a set of aftermarket ones so don't have any good solutions for making the boot out of something else. Mine were a $25 for the pair.

Edit: these are the ones I bought and just used the factory mounting brackets

Edit 2: Those locks do not have a good success rate. Gary had 2 duds and I had 1. The best thing about them are the boots that you can use on factory locks.

I didn't realize the motor was for actually rolling/unrolling the cover. That's neat.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Subscribed and wow. That thing is tiny!

I ran into the same boot issue when trying to find some used ones for the 86 since it didn't come with power locks. Ended up just buying a set of aftermarket ones so don't have any good solutions for making the boot out of something else. Mine were a $25 for the pair.

Edit: these are the ones I bought and just used the factory mounting brackets

Edit 2: Those locks do not have a good success rate. Gary had 2 duds and I had 1. The best thing about them are the boots that you can use on factory locks.

Yes, it is tiny. No wonder the tech at Crutchfield laughed when I mentioned worrying about getting it to fit.

But the locks in your link are $26.88/ea, not $25/pair.

What about this pair from Amazon for $41/pair?

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't realize the motor was for actually rolling/unrolling the cover. That's neat.

Yes, it actually rolls the cover up or unrolls it. And it cannot move w/o power, so won't come loose as the bed twists. I didn't initially plan to go with that one, but Janey twisted my arm.

[kramttocs]

Yes, it is tiny. No wonder the tech at Crutchfield laughed when I mentioned worrying about getting it to fit.

But the locks in your link are $26.88/ea, not $25/pair.

What about this pair from Amazon for $41/pair?

Those amazon ones would work - no doubt they all now come from the same place but that ebay listing is for a set of 2 (2x).

Amazon would definitely arrive sooner though.