bp17oang Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 Well these drive shafts seem to be quite the debacle... The source I had on the front one just called me and said it's damaged. Figures. Just got my rear one and crawled under the truck and held it into place and it seems like it's too long. It also does not include the male slip yoke/stub shaft which I obviously need. Any spicer numbers for that section would be greatly appreciated I'm not going to get too nervous about the length yet until I get my ride height situated. Regardless I will need that other piece Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Well these drive shafts seem to be quite the debacle... The source I had on the front one just called me and said it's damaged. Figures. Just got my rear one and crawled under the truck and held it into place and it seems like it's too long. It also does not include the male slip yoke/stub shaft which I obviously need. Any spicer numbers for that section would be greatly appreciated Not sure if it will help any but I have the shafts from my 80 c&c on the back of the truck right now (along with a 96 c&c set). I am not sure those parts will have any numbers on them though. So that photo is of the rear one you have (or will be used as your rear one)? What did it come out of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 Not sure if it will help any but I have the shafts from my 80 c&c on the back of the truck right now (along with a 96 c&c set). I am not sure those parts will have any numbers on them though. So that photo is of the rear one you have (or will be used as your rear one)? What did it come out of? Is it a two-piece or one piece? If it's a one piece I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of the configuration. I'm really confused with what I've received to be honest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Is it a two-piece or one piece? If it's a one piece I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of the configuration. I'm really confused with what I've received to be honest To me that looks like an auto trans slip yoke. So out of a 2wd it would be a two piece. Front shorter piece going through the carrier bearing and terminating with a male splined shaft. Then the rear piece would have a female piece that looks similar to yours but would have a collar at the end. At least that's what all my 2wd (both auto and manual) C&C trucks have. Now with 4wd - our 94 7.3, 5spd C&C is a one piece. Honestly I thought it was 2 piece but just now called my dad and he checked. Our 96 7.3, 5spd, 4wd C&C is also at the farm with him and I would now assume it's a 1 piece as well but he wasn't near it to look. I am going back with a 1 piece on my 80 but it won't really help you out as the config will be different. Wish I was near the 94/96 since like you said, that would help you out more. I was thinking I could get you some info with the 2 piece ones but that was before I learned about the 94 1 piece. The 1 piece does simplify the build and might be worth checking with your local driveshaft shop on having one built. I could share what I paid for mine but it was a bit of a special case (aka ordeal) and won't be a good comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 To me that looks like an auto trans slip yoke. So out of a 2wd it would be a two piece. Front shorter piece going through the carrier bearing and terminating with a male splined shaft. Then the rear piece would have a female piece that looks similar to yours but would have a collar at the end. At least that's what all my 2wd (both auto and manual) C&C trucks have. Now with 4wd - our 94 7.3, 5spd C&C is a one piece. Honestly I thought it was 2 piece but just now called my dad and he checked. Our 96 7.3, 5spd, 4wd C&C is also at the farm with him and I would now assume it's a 1 piece as well but he wasn't near it to look. I am going back with a 1 piece on my 80 but it won't really help you out as the config will be different. Wish I was near the 94/96 since like you said, that would help you out more. I was thinking I could get you some info with the 2 piece ones but that was before I learned about the 94 1 piece. The 1 piece does simplify the build and might be worth checking with your local driveshaft shop on having one built. I could share what I paid for mine but it was a bit of a special case (aka ordeal) and won't be a good comparison. I just looked at the paperwork. Anyone need a rear driveshaft for an automatic? Yeah I'm done with ordering used parts like that. I'll just take the 15 (sarcasm) driveshafts to the shop and see if he can build something out of what I've got. Might be cheaper to start over. I would think I could take that slip yoke off the axle, flip it around and connect that to my transfer case, then cut the weld yoke off the tube and have a splined shaft welded to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 To me that looks like an auto trans slip yoke. So out of a 2wd it would be a two piece. Front shorter piece going through the carrier bearing and terminating with a male splined shaft. Then the rear piece would have a female piece that looks similar to yours but would have a collar at the end. At least that's what all my 2wd (both auto and manual) C&C trucks have. Now with 4wd - our 94 7.3, 5spd C&C is a one piece. Honestly I thought it was 2 piece but just now called my dad and he checked. Our 96 7.3, 5spd, 4wd C&C is also at the farm with him and I would now assume it's a 1 piece as well but he wasn't near it to look. I am going back with a 1 piece on my 80 but it won't really help you out as the config will be different. Wish I was near the 94/96 since like you said, that would help you out more. I was thinking I could get you some info with the 2 piece ones but that was before I learned about the 94 1 piece. The 1 piece does simplify the build and might be worth checking with your local driveshaft shop on having one built. I could share what I paid for mine but it was a bit of a special case (aka ordeal) and won't be a good comparison. Do you happen to know the wheelbases on the CCs? I assume those have a bw 1356... Do those have fixed yokes (like my 45) or the flange style on the rear output? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Do you happen to know the wheelbases on the CCs? I assume those have a bw 1356... Do those have fixed yokes (like my 45) or the flange style on the rear output? Wheelbase is 137. I assume 1356 as well but unable to confirm. Will have to take a look the next time I am at my parents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 Wheelbase is 137. I assume 1356 as well but unable to confirm. Will have to take a look the next time I am at my parents. Don't go out of your way... not sure why in my head I have to try to figure out what I got originally came from. It has my mind boggled as to how I got what I got when I plugged in my application exactly into Hollander and it spit out the location I ordered the shaft from. Then called them and went through my application once again. Yep, we have your shaft right here on the shelf. The moral of the story is, it ain't gonna work (as it's currently assembled), so I need to move on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 Is it a two-piece or one piece? If it's a one piece I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of the configuration. I'm really confused with what I've received to be honest Actually was able to locate a front driveshaft somewhat locally... They also have a rear shaft. However, it has the flanged end on it. My transfer case has the fixed yolk output. I thought I might be able to separate the flange mounting plate from the shaft and just hook up the u-joint to the yoke on the my transfer case. But, I think it might end up being a touch too short if I do that. It measures 56 1/4" u-joint to u-joint (laying on the ground. It is difficult to know how much the slip yoke is collapsed... I am dealing with a junkyard mind you). My measurements from yoke to yoke (transfer case to axle) is closer to 62". In other words, I don't think the slip yoke, even fully extended, would compensate for the approximate 6" difference. If I used the flange that would increase the length of the shaft by about 2". That's getting closer to seeming feasible... Question 1) Does anyone know if there was a flange style rear output ever used for a 1345? Question 2) 1356s had flanged outputs, correct? Question 3) Would a 1356 flanged output interchange? Question 4) if it's possible to put a flange output on it, would that shorten the length of the shaft I need (ie. is the output assembly for a flange style "longer" than a fixed yoke? Thanks for everyone's help thoughts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 Actually was able to locate a front driveshaft somewhat locally... They also have a rear shaft. However, it has the flanged end on it. My transfer case has the fixed yolk output. I thought I might be able to separate the flange mounting plate from the shaft and just hook up the u-joint to the yoke on the my transfer case. But, I think it might end up being a touch too short if I do that. It measures 56 1/4" u-joint to u-joint (laying on the ground. It is difficult to know how much the slip yoke is collapsed... I am dealing with a junkyard mind you). My measurements from yoke to yoke (transfer case to axle) is closer to 62". In other words, I don't think the slip yoke, even fully extended, would compensate for the approximate 6" difference. If I used the flange that would increase the length of the shaft by about 2". That's getting closer to seeming feasible... Question 1) Does anyone know if there was a flange style rear output ever used for a 1345? Question 2) 1356s had flanged outputs, correct? Question 3) Would a 1356 flanged output interchange? Question 4) if it's possible to put a flange output on it, would that shorten the length of the shaft I need (ie. is the output assembly for a flange style "longer" than a fixed yoke? Thanks for everyone's help thoughts! Pic for reference as to what I'm talking about on the shaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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