Has anyone here built a bullnose into a welding rig?

[Turnburn720]

It's something that I've been dreaming about for a while, I may start searching for the right truck pretty soon. I'd like to build a crew cab 1 ton, preferably a dually, with a 300 six and a zf5. I know that this isn't typically the way to go as far as a powertrain, but I'm not planning on going on the road, just doing as a cool project and to pick up some side work from farmers or heavy equipment operators. I have some questions.

I really like the way a skirted bed looks, what are some considerations when building one? I'd like to go with steel, I hate working with aluminum.

My little machine right now is only about 400 lbs, but ideally I'd like to mount a period-correct sa200d. Is this too much weight with 400 lbs of tools plus 200 lbs of leads/hoses/bottles? Should I be adding helper springs?

If I go this route, can I get away with 2wd in New England? We occasionally a couple feet of snow where I'm at. Not sure if this much weight with good tires can compensate for it.

What upgrades should I plan for as far as the brakes? I figure on doing rear discs/upgrade the master cylinder. Is there more that I should be looking at?

Boxing the frame? Needed?

Rear end: if I was able to pick up a zf5, would I need to go with a 4.10, or could I get away with something a little more manageable? The 300 already is going to have no top end, I'd like to be at least able to hit 55 mph or so.

Any other tips or advice?

Thanks.

[Gary Lewis]

I've not built a welding rig nor a flatbed, so can't answer any of those questions. But I can address some of the others.

However, I keep marveling at your "handle" since my trailer was made by Turn & Burn Welding in Claremore. Interesting as that must be a common term in the welding trade.

On the weight, I don't know what an sa200d weighs, but you've already said the existing equipment would total 1000 lbs and you said your current machine is "little". So I'm guessing the sa200d is bigger and heavier. Then, when you add the weight of a welded steel bed you are getting into some weight. So I'd say that you will need to consider some sort of helper springs.

But if you are looking at an F350 to get the dually setup then I doubt you'll need to box the frame, although others may differ.

On 2wd, I dunno. I'll let others speak to that.

As for the ZF5 and gearing, you'll get by fine with 3.55 gears. But 4.10's will probably work better. If you go to our calculator (Documentation/Driveline/Calculators) and put in 31" tires (my assumption) and look at the ZF5 Wide column you'll see that with the 3.55 gears dialed in you'll be turning ~1900 RPM at 65 MPH. But then if you dial in 4.10's you see that you'd be turning only 2200 RPM. So either gearset will work, and you might like the 4.10's with the extra weight.

[Rembrant]

I'm no help at all, but this '85 F350 service truck has been for sale up here in Canada for ages, and I figured I'd share it for kicks and ideas. I'd have no use for such a vehicle, but this thing is pretty cool with the PTO welder, PTO compressor, hydraulic crane, etc. It only has about 80k original miles too. Old oil field services truck.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/st-albert/1985-ford-f-350-service-truck/1552215802

[ratdude747]

I'm no help at all, but this '85 F350 service truck has been for sale up here in Canada for ages, and I figured I'd share it for kicks and ideas. I'd have no use for such a vehicle, but this thing is pretty cool with the PTO welder, PTO compressor, hydraulic crane, etc. It only has about 80k original miles too. Old oil field services truck.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/st-albert/1985-ford-f-350-service-truck/1552215802

For a Canadian work vehicle, looks pretty clean. Or there's a lot of bondo and patchwork hidden.

(I used to go to London, ON a lot for work, I know!)

[Gary Lewis]

I'm no help at all, but this '85 F350 service truck has been for sale up here in Canada for ages, and I figured I'd share it for kicks and ideas. I'd have no use for such a vehicle, but this thing is pretty cool with the PTO welder, PTO compressor, hydraulic crane, etc. It only has about 80k original miles too. Old oil field services truck.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/st-albert/1985-ford-f-350-service-truck/1552215802

That's a cool truck, Cory. And $5300 CDN is currently $4217 US. I'm not sure what it would take to bring it into the US, but it would be a good start at making a work rig.

[ratdude747]

That's a cool truck, Cory. And $5300 CDN is currently $4217 US. I'm not sure what it would take to bring it into the US, but it would be a good start at making a work rig.

Not sure if the border's been reopened for non-business travel yet, but aside from that, I think you'd get up there and drive/tow it back. Have to declare it at the border and have all sales paperwork up to snuff (no slop, must be perfect!) and pay any tariffs at the border.

I know of a former coworker who bought a tractor up there and brought it home on a company trip... and I've heard of people importing such.

If using a car hauler company, I don't know... Never dealt with such. A buddy of mine bought a Fiero in NY and had it shipped on one to his shop in MO, but that didn't have the border to mess with. I'm sure it's been done.

The only other "issue" is that the odometer will likely be in KM, not MI, so that might titling interesting... but again, it's been done (probably just converted when filling out the US paperwork?).

 

[Turnburn720]

I've not built a welding rig nor a flatbed, so can't answer any of those questions. But I can address some of the others.

However, I keep marveling at your "handle" since my trailer was made by Turn & Burn Welding in Claremore. Interesting as that must be a common term in the welding trade.

On the weight, I don't know what an sa200d weighs, but you've already said the existing equipment would total 1000 lbs and you said your current machine is "little". So I'm guessing the sa200d is bigger and heavier. Then, when you add the weight of a welded steel bed you are getting into some weight. So I'd say that you will need to consider some sort of helper springs.

But if you are looking at an F350 to get the dually setup then I doubt you'll need to box the frame, although others may differ.

On 2wd, I dunno. I'll let others speak to that.

As for the ZF5 and gearing, you'll get by fine with 3.55 gears. But 4.10's will probably work better. If you go to our calculator (Documentation/Driveline/Calculators) and put in 31" tires (my assumption) and look at the ZF5 Wide column you'll see that with the 3.55 gears dialed in you'll be turning ~1900 RPM at 65 MPH. But then if you dial in 4.10's you see that you'd be turning only 2200 RPM. So either gearset will work, and you might like the 4.10's with the extra weight.

Haha yeah it's a pretty common saying in pipefitting, keep turning and keep burning.

The sa200d weighs about 1200 lbs. I'm sure that I'll need to run helper springs the more that I think about it.

The rear end is my main area for questions really. So if I want to go for a 4.10 dually rear end, with a disc brake conversion and helper springs, I wonder what the most cost effective route would be. Should I find a dually with drums on it and then try to convert it, or should I swap the whole axle our for a newer one with discs already on it? Is there any direct fit from later trucks that I can use, or would I have to be getting into fabrication?

Also, I'm curious about frame boxing. I know that it's usually done on old hot rods to deal with the twist from high torque motors, is there actually any benefit to it on old pickup trucks, other than fixing beatup frame rails?

[Gary Lewis]

Haha yeah it's a pretty common saying in pipefitting, keep turning and keep burning.

The sa200d weighs about 1200 lbs. I'm sure that I'll need to run helper springs the more that I think about it.

The rear end is my main area for questions really. So if I want to go for a 4.10 dually rear end, with a disc brake conversion and helper springs, I wonder what the most cost effective route would be. Should I find a dually with drums on it and then try to convert it, or should I swap the whole axle our for a newer one with discs already on it? Is there any direct fit from later trucks that I can use, or would I have to be getting into fabrication?

Also, I'm curious about frame boxing. I know that it's usually done on old hot rods to deal with the twist from high torque motors, is there actually any benefit to it on old pickup trucks, other than fixing beatup frame rails?

Are you sure you need discs in the rear. I’m running drums with hydro boost and the brakes are everything I want.

As for frame boxing, there’s not going to be much, if any, twisting back of the cab when you put a steel flatbed on. And with a 300 six you won’t be hitting with serious torque. So I don’t see the need to box it.

[Turnburn720]

Are you sure you need discs in the rear. I’m running drums with hydro boost and the brakes are everything I want.

As for frame boxing, there’s not going to be much, if any, twisting back of the cab when you put a steel flatbed on. And with a 300 six you won’t be hitting with serious torque. So I don’t see the need to box it.

Homestly I not sure that I need discs, I've just always been under the impression that the weak spot on bullnose duallys is the brakes, hence the uncommonly low tow rating?

[Gary Lewis]

Homestly I not sure that I need discs, I've just always been under the impression that the weak spot on bullnose duallys is the brakes, hence the uncommonly low tow rating?

Get the opinions of others on here, but I think Big Blue's brakes are now excellent.