How a LockRight works - Illustrated

[Gary Lewis]

Bob - What are your thoughts on a remote-controlled locker in the rear? I'm thinking that's the best combo as it is open unless you tell it to lock.

I'm assuming you mean a selectable locker, like an ARB or an OX.

For winter driving it may well be the best. Open diff stability almost all of the time, spool traction the few times you need it. And from what I've heard from people who do much mountain snow 'wheeling it's all they'll use (driving sidehill with anything other than two open diffs can do downhill in a hurry, pun intended).

The main downside to selectable lockers in the cost. They are the most expensive diffs out there. But you're only talking a few hundred bucks, so it's not an overwhelming thing.

Another downside is needing to do something to use them. Not saying that should be a big factor, but for instance when trail riding it's kind of nice to not have to think about when to engage the locker. Another way to look at it is that a selectable CAN provide the WORST of both worlds, spool binding and lack of stability when you don't need it, open diff lack of traction traction when you need it. Obviously it doesn't have to be that way, it just depends on how much you're staying on top of it. And for the scenario of winter daily driving it wouldn't be much hassle.

One more thing I guess is that a lot of selectables are air-actuated, so if you didn't have your compressor running before needing it you might need to wait a bit while the pressure builds up before you can use it. Something to consider.

Of course there are also electrically actuated selectables, including most (all?) of the factory-offered lockers. I don't know much about them, but I do hear of people replacing a factory locker with something from the aftermarket (I suspect that's due to factory lockers being more cost-conscious and less over-built than some aftermarket, but that's just a guess). And I've heard a few people less than entirely pleased with some aftermarket selectables (slightly flaky operation at times).

There's also the OX locker that is mechanically actuated. You can also put an air cylinder on the cover (like I have) and make it air-actuated, or put an electric actuator on the end of the mechanical cable (like Gary is doing) and make it electrical. The biggest hassle with mechanical is routing the cable (it can't bend as sharply as an air line or wire) and mounting the hand lever (bulkier than a switch or valve).

Bottom line is that nothing's perfect, but there are a lot of good options.

Yes, I meant selectable lockers like OX or ARB. Or the one that came from Ford on Blue's rear axle. Here's what the owner's manual says about it:

• In 4x2, 4x4 Auto, and 4x4 High modes,

the electronic locking differential will

automatically disengage at speeds

above 25 mph (41 km/h) and will

automatically reengage at speeds

below 20 mph (32 km/h).

• In 4L (4X4 low), the electronic locking

differential will automatically

disengage at speeds above 62 mph

(100 km/h) and will automatically

reengage at speeds below 56 mph

(90 km/h).

• The AdvanceTrac system has the

ability to take over control of the

electronic locking differential and

disable it during driving maneuvers

when necessary.

I'm surprised it'll stay locked up to those speeds. Further, I didn't know you could get the truck above 56 MPH in 4Lo.

Anyway, you are right that I'm installing an electric actuator on the OX for Big Blue's front axle. I like that idea a lot better than using air 'cause I don't have to make sure the pressure is up on the compressor before locking in.