Could the axle/spindle bearing be the problem?

[BigDav782]

If it is in fact a stuck caliper, the cheapest thing to do is replace it, But replace both at the same time and bleed them out good.

As for the pads, that would depend on you. If they have a bunch of friction materal left on them, I would reuse them, Thats a call that you are going to have to make. Rule of thumb I have always gone by, if the friction material is the same thickness as the backing plate or less, I replace them.

Another thought is on the rotors. Having worked in repair shops for years, In most states it is law that when the pads are replaced, at a minimum the rotors, the rotors must be measured to make sure they wont go under size after being resurfaced. Then resurface them. If they will go undersize, replace them. The dealers will tell you this, the shops will tell you this and this is what I do because I dont like squeaking brakes and brakes that wear out before they should. Others will tell you that you dont have to do the rotors and that is up to you

I could really use some help here - feeling down and frustrated by my current (lack of) progress.

Here is what I've done in my latest repair round, trying to quiet this awful noise from the front:

-Replaced both rotors and wheel hubs with new

-Replaced both calipers with remanufactured

-Replaced both sets of brake pads with new

-Replaced both locking hubs with new (Warn)

-Replaced both front brake hoses, and both brake lines that feed to proportioning valve

-Replaced both sets of bearings

All of this did exactly squat to address the sound, and to boot, now I have squishy brakes, which I suspect will lead me to dealing with the master cylinder/brake booster/rear brakes.

I'm having a hard time getting the energy to keep replacing parts, when I'm still stuck at this spot that I've been at for many months, and still can't comfortably drive the truck.

Any suggestions?

My only last thought is that perhaps the spindle itself on the driver's side is bad. The inside of both bearings on that side were scored, and they were brand new about 50 miles ago. I put new bearings in to be safe, since they are cheap and I was already in that far. That spindle is definitely more corroded than the passengers side, but I would have thought that with all this work, the sound would have at least changed, even if it didn't completely go away. But it's still exact same characteristics as originally noted.

If yes on the spindle, any advice on where to get one?

Thanks in advance

[Gary Lewis]

I could really use some help here - feeling down and frustrated by my current (lack of) progress.

Here is what I've done in my latest repair round, trying to quiet this awful noise from the front:

-Replaced both rotors and wheel hubs with new

-Replaced both calipers with remanufactured

-Replaced both sets of brake pads with new

-Replaced both locking hubs with new (Warn)

-Replaced both front brake hoses, and both brake lines that feed to proportioning valve

-Replaced both sets of bearings

All of this did exactly squat to address the sound, and to boot, now I have squishy brakes, which I suspect will lead me to dealing with the master cylinder/brake booster/rear brakes.

I'm having a hard time getting the energy to keep replacing parts, when I'm still stuck at this spot that I've been at for many months, and still can't comfortably drive the truck.

Any suggestions?

My only last thought is that perhaps the spindle itself on the driver's side is bad. The inside of both bearings on that side were scored, and they were brand new about 50 miles ago. I put new bearings in to be safe, since they are cheap and I was already in that far. That spindle is definitely more corroded than the passengers side, but I would have thought that with all this work, the sound would have at least changed, even if it didn't completely go away. But it's still exact same characteristics as originally noted.

If yes on the spindle, any advice on where to get one?

Thanks in advance

Have you done as Steve suggested and pulled a wheel, pulled a caliper, reinstalled the wheel, and spun it? If so, what were the results?

That test, assuming the hub isn't locked and the axle shaft doesn't turn, gets down to just bearings and the hub. So if you have noise then you can check those more closely.

Having said that, if the new bearings are scored then you probably know the culprit. But, if I remember correctly, neither bearing runs directly on the spindle. Right?

Do you have pics of how it goes together and how the bearings are scored?

[BigDav782]

Have you done as Steve suggested and pulled a wheel, pulled a caliper, reinstalled the wheel, and spun it? If so, what were the results?

That test, assuming the hub isn't locked and the axle shaft doesn't turn, gets down to just bearings and the hub. So if you have noise then you can check those more closely.

Having said that, if the new bearings are scored then you probably know the culprit. But, if I remember correctly, neither bearing runs directly on the spindle. Right?

Do you have pics of how it goes together and how the bearings are scored?

Yep - noise was still present, so that eliminated the caliper and brake pads. I replaced both halves of the hub (the manual part that you turn to lock the wheel, as well as the mating piece that attaches directly to the rotor), so I don't think either of those can still be the problem.

I think you are right that scored bearings are a key clue, especially when they only had 50 miles on them and were brand new.

The bearings were scored on the inside - I already threw them otherwise I'd take a picture. But I'm pretty confident the bearings directly run on the spindle - I'm not sure what else they would run on if not. Check out the attached snapshot. The circled spindle is the piece that was corroded on the drivers side.

I tried to get a spindle at a junkyard yesterday (new ones online are pretty expensive). It was a bear to get off because of all the rust, and ultimately was in terrible condition.