Finally brought the bullnose home

[Jochen1964]

Well done. What size are the tires? 235/75 or 31x10.50?

31 x 10.5 R15

 

 

 

From: Rembrant [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] [mailto:redacted_email_address]

Sent: Montag, 16. April 2018 17:25

To: Tillmann, Jochen [CONDE] <redacted_email_address>

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Finally brought the bullnose home

 

 

 

Well done. What size are the tires? 235/75 or 31x10.50?

 

In rehab: 1984 F150 2wd Flareside pickup. Original 302 2bbl DSII w/3-spd manual column shift. Plain Jane with no A/C and no radio.

 

 

 

 

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[Jochen1964]

Love the truck! The short-beds just look so nice, well proportioned. And that one looks really clean. I'm not sure it has been restored, just very well maintained. On lighting upgrades, I have a thread on that called, oddly enough, Lighting Upgrades.But that doesn't speak to the dash/instrument lighting, and that is covered a bit in the thread Conversation With Bill O'Neil - Mr HiPo Parts. I've not gotten the LED samples from Bill yet so can't tell you how good they are. However, I will remind him and see if I can get them to test and let y'all know. I think white ones would be preferable to the blue ones I currently have, and his that are designed for "around" lighting rather than "projecting" should be the best way to go.As for the German, thanks for the clarification. I no just enough to get me into trouble, but am happy to learn.

Thanks Gary, pls keep me posted on the dashboard LEDs. I am very interested and I am a bit in a rush here given that I am almost flying blind in the dark currently.

 

 

 

From: Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] [mailto:redacted_email_address]

Sent: Montag, 16. April 2018 16:45

To: Tillmann, Jochen [CONDE] <redacted_email_address>

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Finally brought the bullnose home

 

 

 

Love the truck!  The short-beds just look so nice, well proportioned.  And that one looks really clean.  I'm not sure it has been restored, just very well maintained.  

 

On lighting upgrades, I have a thread on that called, oddly enough, Lighting Upgrades.

 

But that doesn't speak to the dash/instrument lighting, and that is covered a bit in the threadConversation With Bill O'Neil - Mr HiPo Parts.  I've not gotten the LED samples from Bill yet so can't tell you how good they are.  However, I will remind him and see if I can get them to test and let y'all know.  I think white ones would be preferable to the blue ones I currently have, and his that are designed for "around" lighting rather than "projecting" should be the best way to go.

 

As for the German, thanks for the clarification.  I no just enough to get me into trouble, but am happy to learn.  

 

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches

Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow

Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

 

 

 

 

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[Gary Lewis]

Jochen - What many of us have done is to remove the cluster and take out the blue filters that create blue light from incandescent bulbs. They tend to become opaque over time and reduce the amount of light that they pass. Removing them helps some, but it isn't "the fix" by itself.

Next up is to replace the bulbs with bright LED's. That helps quite a bit, but there's a debate about which color is best. I'm running blue LED's in Big Blue (seems appropriate) but don't really like them, so I'm anxious to try Bill/HiPo Parts' new warm white LED's.

I had several conversations with Bill via email yesterday. He hasn't gotten the quantity of those LED's he expected and is selling them rapidly - with rave reviews he said.

But, I'm sure he's going to get me a set as we've agreed a test with the gauges this way:

• NOS: One of my new old stock gauges that have never seen the light of day. Bill says the fluorescent paint will still be dead in spite of the gauge having been in a box its whole life, but we shall see.

• Original: An original gauge with the fluorescent paint surely dead.

• Testors: A gauge with Testors "Fluorescent Orange" paint that Bill says is only bright orange but does not fluoresce. And, it is heavy so changes the gauge's reading.

• HiPo: One gauge with Bill's fluorescent paint on the needle.

But that will take a while, so you might try the approach above.

[1986F150Six]

Jochen - What many of us have done is to remove the cluster and take out the blue filters that create blue light from incandescent bulbs. They tend to become opaque over time and reduce the amount of light that they pass. Removing them helps some, but it isn't "the fix" by itself.

Next up is to replace the bulbs with bright LED's. That helps quite a bit, but there's a debate about which color is best. I'm running blue LED's in Big Blue (seems appropriate) but don't really like them, so I'm anxious to try Bill/HiPo Parts' new warm white LED's.

I had several conversations with Bill via email yesterday. He hasn't gotten the quantity of those LED's he expected and is selling them rapidly - with rave reviews he said.

But, I'm sure he's going to get me a set as we've agreed a test with the gauges this way:

• NOS: One of my new old stock gauges that have never seen the light of day. Bill says the fluorescent paint will still be dead in spite of the gauge having been in a box its whole life, but we shall see.

• Original: An original gauge with the fluorescent paint surely dead.

• Testors: A gauge with Testors "Fluorescent Orange" paint that Bill says is only bright orange but does not fluoresce. And, it is heavy so changes the gauge's reading.

• HiPo: One gauge with Bill's fluorescent paint on the needle.

But that will take a while, so you might try the approach above.

We had good results [original appearance] on my son's 1984 by removing the blue filters and installing new incandescent 194B [blue] bulbs.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-194b?seid=srese2&cm_mmc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-hella

I did not use the Hella bulbs; bought mine @ NAPA for ~$1.00 each.

[Gary Lewis]

We had good results [original appearance] on my son's 1984 by removing the blue filters and installing new incandescent 194B [blue] bulbs.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-194b?seid=srese2&cm_mmc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-hella

I did not use the Hella bulbs; bought mine @ NAPA for ~$1.00 each.

I wonder if the blue LED's emit a much narrower frequency of light than the blue incandescents do. Big Blue's gauges are seriously BLUE, but perhaps the incandescents give a blue-shaded light that is more even?

[1986F150Six]

I wonder if the blue LED's emit a much narrower frequency of light than the blue incandescents do. Big Blue's gauges are seriously BLUE, but perhaps the incandescents give a blue-shaded light that is more even?

With the filters removed and using the 194B bulbs, there is no sense of blue. The dash lighting is just like original, except significantly brighter than what it was before removing the filters and clear 194 bulbs.

[Gary Lewis]

With the filters removed and using the 194B bulbs, there is no sense of blue. The dash lighting is just like original, except significantly brighter than what it was before removing the filters and clear 194 bulbs.

With Bill's explanation of the blue wavelength causing the paint to fluoresce the most, it is easy to see why the manufacturers went with blue light. But apparently the blue-tinted bulbs weren't available then or they wouldn't have gone to the trouble of having the filters made and creating places for them to clip in.

Now that the filters have become opaque and blue bulbs are available, they are a nice solution to get blue-tinged light. You just need to paint the needles with fresh fluorescent paint.

[1986F150Six]

With Bill's explanation of the blue wavelength causing the paint to fluoresce the most, it is easy to see why the manufacturers went with blue light. But apparently the blue-tinted bulbs weren't available then or they wouldn't have gone to the trouble of having the filters made and creating places for them to clip in.

Now that the filters have become opaque and blue bulbs are available, they are a nice solution to get blue-tinged light. You just need to paint the needles with fresh fluorescent paint.

Gary, Bill's explanation about the blue wavelength causing the paint to fluoresce the most, caused me to remember the crystal clear [not opaque] light green filters I found on the F600 dash. Remember, I brought that dash last year? The F600 gauges have orange painted needles, too, so why did Ford go with green filters?

By the way, when you set up your test for different bulbs as well as different paints, if you want to test a green filter, I can mail you one [or all].

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, Bill's explanation about the blue wavelength causing the paint to fluoresce the most, caused me to remember the crystal clear [not opaque] light green filters I found on the F600 dash. Remember, I brought that dash last year? The F600 gauges have orange painted needles, too, so why did Ford go with green filters?

By the way, when you set up your test for different bulbs as well as different paints, if you want to test a green filter, I can mail you one [or all].

I can't explain the green. Perhaps it works fairly well and is "different"?

As for the test, I'm still in the formulating stages. In fact, why don't we take this discussion to a new thread I'm working on .....

[Gsmblue]

Gary, Bill's explanation about the blue wavelength causing the paint to fluoresce the most, caused me to remember the crystal clear [not opaque] light green filters I found on the F600 dash. Remember, I brought that dash last year? The F600 gauges have orange painted needles, too, so why did Ford go with green filters?

By the way, when you set up your test for different bulbs as well as different paints, if you want to test a green filter, I can mail you one [or all].

Huge congrats on your truck!!!

The dye in the needle paint absorbs one color of light and emits another color. This is the principle of fluorescence.

So if they used a different material in the f600 gauges they may need a different wavelength of light to activate it.

Incidentally, our eyes are more sensitive to blue light than green light or red light, so bright blue light hurts out night vision... always best to keep the instrument lights as dim as you reasonably can so you can see better out side.

Sorry if this reads badly, I am kinda tired!