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351 coolant leak


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It isn't all that hard to change out the timing cover. But you do have to ensure that you get it sealed properly to the pan. However, it may not be the timing cover that is leaking, as a leaking pump gasket will put coolant in the same place. So try to determine where the leak is before you tackle it.

And, you have lots of bolts to keep track of as the Windsors use several different length bolts, so you need to come up with a scheme to keep track of them. And while you are in there you might want to replace the water pump as they have to come off and are relatively cheap.

If you are replacing the water pump, then the easiest way I've seen to keep track of the bolts is to trace the new water pump's outline, including bolt holes, on a piece of cardboard. And the new pump's box is a good candidate for that. Then, as you pull the bolts, put them through the cardboard in the correct position.

Also, note that several of those bolts go into coolant, so thread sealer is good to use on them as you replace them. Something like PTFE in a tube is what I use.

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It isn't all that hard to change out the timing cover. But you do have to ensure that you get it sealed properly to the pan. However, it may not be the timing cover that is leaking, as a leaking pump gasket will put coolant in the same place. So try to determine where the leak is before you tackle it.

And, you have lots of bolts to keep track of as the Windsors use several different length bolts, so you need to come up with a scheme to keep track of them. And while you are in there you might want to replace the water pump as they have to come off and are relatively cheap.

If you are replacing the water pump, then the easiest way I've seen to keep track of the bolts is to trace the new water pump's outline, including bolt holes, on a piece of cardboard. And the new pump's box is a good candidate for that. Then, as you pull the bolts, put them through the cardboard in the correct position.

Also, note that several of those bolts go into coolant, so thread sealer is good to use on them as you replace them. Something like PTFE in a tube is what I use.

Thanks Gary.

As it is only a small amount of coolant I am going to keep an eye on it to work out what is going on there.

There was more on the other side under the thermostat, but I can’t tell right now which seal or seals are leaking...

Previous owner said they had replaced the thermostat recently. Which means either they had to replace it, or they thought it needed replacing... I do remember seeing coolant there when I first went to look at it.

I just cleaned her up a bit for now. I love these projects!

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Thanks Gary.

As it is only a small amount of coolant I am going to keep an eye on it to work out what is going on there.

There was more on the other side under the thermostat, but I can’t tell right now which seal or seals are leaking...

Previous owner said they had replaced the thermostat recently. Which means either they had to replace it, or they thought it needed replacing... I do remember seeing coolant there when I first went to look at it.

I just cleaned her up a bit for now. I love these projects!

If there was coolant on both sides then that changes everything. I would bet there's a problem with the thermostat housing. I've seen them cracked and leaking and I've seen them so corroded they won't seal. I've seen people swap the bolts side to side where the long one bottoms out in the blind hole and won't tighten down. And I've seen people catch the rim of the thermostat between the housing and the gasket. In fact, I've seen them put on with just RTV and no gasket.

So, if it was me I'd pull the housing off and inspect it closely. Check to see that the bolts are in the right way 'round and snug. Check the gasket, if there is one. And I would do that several times before I pulled the water pump and timing cover off.

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If there was coolant on both sides then that changes everything. I would bet there's a problem with the thermostat housing. I've seen them cracked and leaking and I've seen them so corroded they won't seal. I've seen people swap the bolts side to side where the long one bottoms out in the blind hole and won't tighten down. And I've seen people catch the rim of the thermostat between the housing and the gasket. In fact, I've seen them put on with just RTV and no gasket.

So, if it was me I'd pull the housing off and inspect it closely. Check to see that the bolts are in the right way 'round and snug. Check the gasket, if there is one. And I would do that several times before I pulled the water pump and timing cover off.

Gary,

Thank you for the excellent advice! I will pull the thermostat and inspect the housing etc.

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Gary,

Thank you for the excellent advice! I will pull the thermostat and inspect the housing etc.

Another possibility with coolant showing there, is a leak from the intake manifold.

A few months ago I had that situation & scrapped my original aluminum intake (which had suffered corrosion & repairs over time) swapping it for an older, non-EGR cast iron version in pristine condition, from a '69 Mustang motor.

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Another possibility with coolant showing there, is a leak from the intake manifold.

A few months ago I had that situation & scrapped my original aluminum intake (which had suffered corrosion & repairs over time) swapping it for an older, non-EGR cast iron version in pristine condition, from a '69 Mustang motor.

Good point, Ken. I've seen that as well but didn't think about it being a source of the leak.

Gsmblue - The aluminum intakes corrode pretty badly there on the ends if the coolant isn't changed routinely. It is due to the interface of dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid. So the liquid, in this case coolant, has to have corrosion inhibitors, and they go away over time.

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Good point, Ken. I've seen that as well but didn't think about it being a source of the leak.

Gsmblue - The aluminum intakes corrode pretty badly there on the ends if the coolant isn't changed routinely. It is due to the interface of dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid. So the liquid, in this case coolant, has to have corrosion inhibitors, and they go away over time.

Thanks! I am hoping to get to look at this on sunday.. it is my too priority.

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Thanks! I am hoping to get to look at this on sunday.. it is my too priority.

Thought I use this thread to ask my question on coolant as well. Over the last couple of days mine leaked a few drops of coolant onto the floor. Just a few drops for a couple of days and yesterday it was gone again apparently. Is there any coolant overflow in these machines as a potential source other then the coolant reservoir? I tried to figure out the origin but couldn´t spot the source. Any ideas or thoughts from you guys? Regards Jochen

Coolant.jpg.e42a883d729483741fdc2a9fb877b896.jpg

 

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Thought I use this thread to ask my question on coolant as well. Over the last couple of days mine leaked a few drops of coolant onto the floor. Just a few drops for a couple of days and yesterday it was gone again apparently. Is there any coolant overflow in these machines as a potential source other then the coolant reservoir? I tried to figure out the origin but couldn´t spot the source. Any ideas or thoughts from you guys? Regards Jochen

Jochen - If we are going to much troubleshooting on your truck we should start a thread for it and not hijack this one. I can do that for you if you want and move this response there. But, I'll give you my thoughts, briefly, here.

The only overflow is from the radiator's neck into the coolant recovery bottle. Sometimes that hose between them is bad and leaks. Or, you have a hose clamp loose on either radiator hose or one of the heater hoses. Next is a leak at the thermostat housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose. Then there's the little bypass hose between the water pump and the engine. Worst is a leak at the front or rear of the intake manifold.

As said, to take this any further I can start a thread for you and move your post and mine there.

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