Rembrant Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 Cory, I'm thinking I need to rent a van and bring back a truck full of fenders as a retirement source! It is interesting. I don't remember seeing all that many Flaresides around in the 80's, but then again in the 1980's up here, my world was pretty small. I have two extra sets of fenders now, and I know where there are two more loose sets locally. One guy has just a set of fenders with steps still attached, and another guy has a project Flareside with an extra set of fenders just loose. On top of that, I've now found 3 backyard carcasses which more or less counts for 3 more sets of fenders since the trucks themselves are rust buckets. If I thought I could sell them I'd be buying them up myself! I have found a few running/driving trucks too that weren't advertised for sale, but that the sellers would sell. What I personally find interesting is that two of the three carcasses I've found were 4x4 trucks. There may indeed have been a bunch of Flaresides around years ago, but the 4x4 models would have been rare. I have my eye on an '80 4x4 about 5 hours north. The truck is not currently for sale, but it may be in the future. It needs an engine, and I've let the guy know that I'd be interested in the truck either way if he decides to sell it. I finally got to talk to the owner of this old Bullnose today (The original truck from the beginning of this thread). He said he bought the truck new in 1981. He says he'll let it go cheap....really cheap!! Judging by the look of the frame, it would break in two if you tried to move it. Maybe the leaf springs and the drive shaft would hold it together;). Not much there to salvage unfortunately. Fiberglass fenders, trans/transfer case, diffs maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz EconolineF100 Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 I finally got to talk to the owner of this old Bullnose today (The original truck from the beginning of this thread). He said he bought the truck new in 1981. He says he'll let it go cheap....really cheap!! Judging by the look of the frame, it would break in two if you tried to move it. Maybe the leaf springs and the drive shaft would hold it together;). Not much there to salvage unfortunately. Fiberglass fenders, trans/transfer case, diffs maybe. That rear bar would be worth putting aside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 That rear bar would be worth putting aside Yeah, there are a few parts I'd take off of this truck. The SRW would be one, although I didn't look closely at it's condition, and it may be more trouble than it's worth to remove. I checked with a local shop last fall and they quoted me something like $450 installed for a new one (That's CDN, not USD). The other pair of trucks I looked at earlier in the week had a few parts there as well. There's a good Flareside rear bumper there, laying on the bench set of one of the trucks, and what looked to be a salvageable tailgate...although again, it may be more trouble than it's worth to repair since they are available new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 I finally got to talk to the owner of this old Bullnose today (The original truck from the beginning of this thread). He said he bought the truck new in 1981. He says he'll let it go cheap....really cheap!! Judging by the look of the frame, it would break in two if you tried to move it. Maybe the leaf springs and the drive shaft would hold it together;). Not much there to salvage unfortunately. Fiberglass fenders, trans/transfer case, diffs maybe. I've never seen a frame that far gone. If that is indicative of the rest of the truck, or at least the parts underneath, then it wouldn't be worth even "cheap". But things like the roll bar, bull bar, and maybe the rear pumper might tip the balance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 I've never seen a frame that far gone. The truck was more than likely parked there because the frame was broken. It's been there for a long long time. One of the others I looked at this week, equally sunk into the ground, was parked there in the 1990's. Some of these old vehicles rusted out from the salt air, just sitting in the driveway...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 I've never seen a frame that far gone. The truck was more than likely parked there because the frame was broken. It's been there for a long long time. One of the others I looked at this week, equally sunk into the ground, was parked there in the 1990's. Some of these old vehicles rusted out from the salt air, just sitting in the driveway...lol. I can tell you from recent experience that getting a truck out of the ground is a chore. And it takes a lot of jacking individual corners to get under them. I can't see that one coming out in one piece w/o damaging things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 I can tell you from recent experience that getting a truck out of the ground is a chore. And it takes a lot of jacking individual corners to get under them. I can't see that one coming out in one piece w/o damaging things. I won't be moving the thing, but I may be interested in some parts. I was thinking of grabbing the 4-spd stick to somehow graft onto my 5spd to keep the interior looking correct-ish. Not that it matters much, but the one thing that bugs me about my 5-spd swap is that straight stick. It seems like every Bullnose with a manual trans I look into has a different "crooked" shifter stick in it. This junker has a stick like in the pictures below...any idea what tools I would need to remove it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 I can tell you from recent experience that getting a truck out of the ground is a chore. And it takes a lot of jacking individual corners to get under them. I can't see that one coming out in one piece w/o damaging things. I won't be moving the thing, but I may be interested in some parts. I was thinking of grabbing the 4-spd stick to somehow graft onto my 5spd to keep the interior looking correct-ish. Not that it matters much, but the one thing that bugs me about my 5-spd swap is that straight stick. It seems like every Bullnose with a manual trans I look into has a different "crooked" shifter stick in it. This junker has a stick like in the pictures below...any idea what tools I would need to remove it? I don't know because I don't know what transmission that is. But, if you can find out, or have some of the guys on here tell us, what tranny it is then I should be able to look it up. You could ask a question about that by starting a new thread in the main section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 I don't know because I don't know what transmission that is. But, if you can find out, or have some of the guys on here tell us, what tranny it is then I should be able to look it up. You could ask a question about that by starting a new thread in the main section. Curvy stick is a NP435 4 sp. I get the roll bar Gary, In the shot of the tailgate, look at the tree growing between the body and the bumper, its been there a while! Usually if you see the rear chrome bumper "puckering" around the bolt holes, it has "rust expanded" from the backside... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Curvy stick is a NP435 4 sp. I get the roll bar Gary, In the shot of the tailgate, look at the tree growing between the body and the bumper, its been there a while! Usually if you see the rear chrome bumper "puckering" around the bolt holes, it has "rust expanded" from the backside... Ok, I should have known that it is an NP435. As for the tools required the shift lever from one, strength and a disregard for pain. It is a PAIN! The instructions are on Page 4 here (Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/NP435, and they call for a special tool - Kent-Moore J3108. But I've done it with several rags and a pair of gloves to protect my fingers. You push down HARD and turn the cap and it unlocks. Eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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