RenoHuskerDu Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Those large swaged rivets that hold on the rear shackle hangers are defying us in our RSK on an OBS. We've disked off the heads. That let us get the bracket off. Now we still have rivet stems in the holes, and the new RSK brackets need those holes. We've tried pounding out the stem. We're trying an air hammer. Unfortunately that beating swelled them a bit. Now we're disking them off flush the the frame rail and hitting them with a punch. All this in limited space. We can't use a torch because the fuel tank is right behind, and wires down the left frame rail. I know a couple of you did the Sky RSK. How did you get those rivets out? If only the bed were off we could use a large sledge at knee level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Drill them at least the depth of the frame with a 1/4" drill bit. That takes the side pressure off, and then you should be able to drive them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 If it's like the radius arm and crossmember bracket rivets on my 1995 Rangers, the hot rivets don't keep center, (and are often "offset" as a result) and usually after KO'ing the bracket, the rivet has to be ground down to the frame before they'll pop loose with a mini-sledge and a spud bar. The other part of the issue is that the frame holes have a generous chamfer, and the rivet usually expands into it (the rivet stem has to deform to pop out). Drilling (and cold/air chiseling) is good for the heads, but an angle grinder can't be beat for grinding the stems after. In my experience, getting a nice long spud bar (or concrete punch) and a good whack from a mini sledge will do the trick once ground flush and only one later of frame/bracket is left. If you have an air hammer, this might also work; you'll want to drill a pilot hole to keep the punch point from wandering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenoHuskerDu Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 Drill them at least the depth of the frame with a 1/4" drill bit. That takes the side pressure off, and then you should be able to drive them out. Good tip. just picked up a bunch of spare bits. That did the job. Ready to bolt on RSK parts. But it's 31F out there now ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Good tip. just picked up a bunch of spare bits. That did the job. Ready to bolt on RSK parts. But it's 31F out there now ... Glad it worked. It is amazing how tight that rivet can be in there with just side pressure. I think Shaun is the one that recommended that approach to me, so we have him to thank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Glad it worked. It is amazing how tight that rivet can be in there with just side pressure. I think Shaun is the one that recommended that approach to me, so we have him to thank. I'm soooo tired of rivets after drilling/grinding over 50 between three trucks now. Drilling through the head works great, but only when you can get access to them with the drill, and only when your bits are sharp. I found that on rivets like the ones for the driver's side engine perch on V8's, you may not be able to get a drill in there, and so your best bet is to torch or grind them out. As mentioned, the holes don't always line up, hence why you can't always just smack them out. I usually give them five attempts at removal with a big hammer, but if they don't budge I know to just grind them down flush and then punch them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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