sgauvry Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 The rings haven't seated, so you'll have all kinds of blow-by, low compression, etc. I take back the leak-down test suggestion. Proceed to get it running and I'll bet the rings seat. Just an update - Went to remove the injectors from my project 5.0. For those that don't know, the plenum covers the passenger side injectors and must be removed to get to them. Thank you, Ford engineers! While removing the fuel rail, I dropped a screw right into the intake:nabble_smiley_cry:. I am not sure which chamber of the intake manifold it went into, but am relatively sure it was either the second or third from the back end of the engine. That will mean the screw is in either the passenger side head or driver-side head. Removed the passenger side head. Closely examined each valve chamber. No screw to be found. Ugh! Will remove the driver-side head tomorrow. Hopefully, I'll find that screw (where else could it possibly be?). Once I get the heads back on and all is reassembled, I'll get back to the original issue of no start - possibly too much fuel and wrong injectors and lack of compression due to remanufactured engine not having opportunity for piston rings to seal adequately to the cylinder walls (I hope), and/or computer/wiring glitch. Have a GREAT week, ya'll! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Just an update - Went to remove the injectors from my project 5.0. For those that don't know, the plenum covers the passenger side injectors and must be removed to get to them. Thank you, Ford engineers! While removing the fuel rail, I dropped a screw right into the intake:nabble_smiley_cry:. I am not sure which chamber of the intake manifold it went into, but am relatively sure it was either the second or third from the back end of the engine. That will mean the screw is in either the passenger side head or driver-side head. Removed the passenger side head. Closely examined each valve chamber. No screw to be found. Ugh! Will remove the driver-side head tomorrow. Hopefully, I'll find that screw (where else could it possibly be?). Once I get the heads back on and all is reassembled, I'll get back to the original issue of no start - possibly too much fuel and wrong injectors and lack of compression due to remanufactured engine not having opportunity for piston rings to seal adequately to the cylinder walls (I hope), and/or computer/wiring glitch. Have a GREAT week, ya'll! Man, does that bring back memories! My 1958 Impala had a 348 w/a WCFB (Will Carter Four Barrel). I had removed the tab that kept the secondaries from coming in until WOT, and it was laying on the intake manifold. One day I flooded the engine so I propped the choke open with that tab. Got in and stupidly floored it - which opened the choke completely, just as the linkage was designed to do. That dropped the aluminum tab into the intake and into a cylinder, just as the engine started. Thunk, thunk, thunk...... In my case it was obvious which side the tab was on due to the thunks, so I pulled the intake and that head just to get the tab out. Anyway, just think of this as practice. You'll have the job of installing heads and intakes down pat, so this round will be even better. And, I'll bet when that new engine breaks in it'll be sealed up quite nicely. Good luck, and keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted April 26, 2018 Author Share Posted April 26, 2018 Man, does that bring back memories! My 1958 Impala had a 348 w/a WCFB (Will Carter Four Barrel). I had removed the tab that kept the secondaries from coming in until WOT, and it was laying on the intake manifold. One day I flooded the engine so I propped the choke open with that tab. Got in and stupidly floored it - which opened the choke completely, just as the linkage was designed to do. That dropped the aluminum tab into the intake and into a cylinder, just as the engine started. Thunk, thunk, thunk...... In my case it was obvious which side the tab was on due to the thunks, so I pulled the intake and that head just to get the tab out. Anyway, just think of this as practice. You'll have the job of installing heads and intakes down pat, so this round will be even better. And, I'll bet when that new engine breaks in it'll be sealed up quite nicely. Good luck, and keep us posted! Update - Pulled passenger side head. No screw. Pulled driver side head. There it was! Reassembled heads and cranked engine without plugs for one minute. Compression reached 130 on 5/8 cylinders. I did not check 3 of the cylinders due to location and the difficulty factor of getting the compression hose/fitting screwed into the spark plug holes. I know I should have tried harder, but based on the readings of the other 5 cylinders and this being a new engine, I got lazy and made an assumption they are good as well. Should I have made that assumption? Probably not. I'm working on cleaning up the fuel rail I received. Once injectors are in and the rail is in place, I'll reassemble the peripherals (alternator, thermactor pump, etc.) and try to start her up. Hopefully, sometime Saturday, I'll have good news. Am feeling better about the potential for starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 26, 2018 Share Posted April 26, 2018 Update - Pulled passenger side head. No screw. Pulled driver side head. There it was! Reassembled heads and cranked engine without plugs for one minute. Compression reached 130 on 5/8 cylinders. I did not check 3 of the cylinders due to location and the difficulty factor of getting the compression hose/fitting screwed into the spark plug holes. I know I should have tried harder, but based on the readings of the other 5 cylinders and this being a new engine, I got lazy and made an assumption they are good as well. Should I have made that assumption? Probably not. I'm working on cleaning up the fuel rail I received. Once injectors are in and the rail is in place, I'll reassemble the peripherals (alternator, thermactor pump, etc.) and try to start her up. Hopefully, sometime Saturday, I'll have good news. Am feeling better about the potential for starting. That's good news! And I don't think you were lazy. I suspect that all of the cylinders would have come up to 130 if you'd tested them. But, after running the engine for 1,000 miles or so they'll be even higher. And, you should be feeling good. It is going to go well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 That's good news! And I don't think you were lazy. I suspect that all of the cylinders would have come up to 130 if you'd tested them. But, after running the engine for 1,000 miles or so they'll be even higher. And, you should be feeling good. It is going to go well. Was hoping to have the truck running by now, but decided that due to flooding the engine with fuel, I will be changing the oil before making any attempts at starting the engine. I'm using Lucas Oil, break-in oil with zinc and can't buy that around here. Ordered it online and should be here in a few days. In the meantime, I've got two questions about gauges. I am considering replacing my dash cluster with electric gauges. The speedometer will remain mechanical, but battery, water temp, oil pressure, tach, and fuel will be electric. 1. Will the sensors I now have work, or will those have to be replaced in order to get a reading on the aftermarket gauges? 2. Will making this change affect operation? Thanks! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Was hoping to have the truck running by now, but decided that due to flooding the engine with fuel, I will be changing the oil before making any attempts at starting the engine. I'm using Lucas Oil, break-in oil with zinc and can't buy that around here. Ordered it online and should be here in a few days. In the meantime, I've got two questions about gauges. I am considering replacing my dash cluster with electric gauges. The speedometer will remain mechanical, but battery, water temp, oil pressure, tach, and fuel will be electric. 1. Will the sensors I now have work, or will those have to be replaced in order to get a reading on the aftermarket gauges? 2. Will making this change affect operation? Thanks! Steve The senders have to be matched to the gauges, so buy the senders with the gauges. Or, there's an adapter device that converts, but that will cost a lot more than new senders. As for the operation, there will be no change. The gauges don't have to work for everything else to work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 The senders have to be matched to the gauges, so buy the senders with the gauges. Or, there's an adapter device that converts, but that will cost a lot more than new senders. As for the operation, there will be no change. The gauges don't have to work for everything else to work fine. Thanks, Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Thanks, Gary! Steve - I thought I saw a post on here asking questions about the TPS, but I can't find it to answer. Did I miss something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Steve - I thought I saw a post on here asking questions about the TPS, but I can't find it to answer. Did I miss something? MP470 asked about it and I posted a bunch of values in the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 Steve - I thought I saw a post on here asking questions about the TPS, but I can't find it to answer. Did I miss something? Sorry Gary - I made a mistake in the values I reported and deleted the thread as it appeared no one responded to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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