Long tube headers

[Matt Wood]

Hi all,

question 3 of the night

I want to make a full custom stainless exhaust system in the summer of this year, i really want to go down the long tube header route but have heard lots of horror stories of burning out starters because of the heat and (the worst one) having to notch the frame to make them fit!

Does anyone have any experience on this of what would almost be a bolt on replacement?

Its a 351W in an '85 Bronco (4x4 of course)

Thanks again

Matt

[LARIAT 85]

I have had Thorley Tri-Y headers on my Lucille for about 10 years now and I haven't had any starter issues nor did I have to notch the frame or any other modifications.

[Rusty_S85]

Customer we have at work has a '82 that had long tube headers never had a problem for 10 years or so with them.

[Rembrant]

I want to make a full custom stainless exhaust system in the summer of this year, i really want to go down the long tube header route but have heard lots of horror stories of burning out starters because of the heat and (the worst one) having to notch the frame to make them fit!

I can't speak to any issues specifically with the 351w, but I have read of some issues with the 302, and I always attribute that to guys installing Mustang headers on trucks. Mustang headers are cheap and plentiful, but they run closer to the starter on the trucks than they do on the cars with the smaller flywheels. Rick may know more about that topic.

I went with truck specific shorty headers...BBK's in chrome, and I'm quite happy with them. I went this route for simplicity sakes, and while I did run full dual exhaust, I was able run them in the location of the stock single exhaust. I know you want long tubes, I'm just throwing this out there as a Plan-B for you;).

PS: One small bit of advice I can give is to buy good gaskets and bolts (if required). Two high performance engine building shops recommended Remflex gaskets to me, and so far they have been great. No leaks whatsoever. I also went with longer ARP header bolts as the ones that came with my BBK's were too short.

Whatever HP I may have sacrificed in not going with longtubes I am OK with as my truck is just a cruiser/driver, and I was going more for "pretty" than for "power".

 

[Gary Lewis]

I want to make a full custom stainless exhaust system in the summer of this year, i really want to go down the long tube header route but have heard lots of horror stories of burning out starters because of the heat and (the worst one) having to notch the frame to make them fit!

I can't speak to any issues specifically with the 351w, but I have read of some issues with the 302, and I always attribute that to guys installing Mustang headers on trucks. Mustang headers are cheap and plentiful, but they run closer to the starter on the trucks than they do on the cars with the smaller flywheels. Rick may know more about that topic.

I went with truck specific shorty headers...BBK's in chrome, and I'm quite happy with them. I went this route for simplicity sakes, and while I did run full dual exhaust, I was able run them in the location of the stock single exhaust. I know you want long tubes, I'm just throwing this out there as a Plan-B for you;).

PS: One small bit of advice I can give is to buy good gaskets and bolts (if required). Two high performance engine building shops recommended Remflex gaskets to me, and so far they have been great. No leaks whatsoever. I also went with longer ARP header bolts as the ones that came with my BBK's were too short.

Whatever HP I may have sacrificed in not going with longtubes I am OK with as my truck is just a cruiser/driver, and I was going more for "pretty" than for "power".

I've not done headers on a lighter truck nor a Bronco. Nor have I done headers on a 351W. But I have on a 460 in Big Blue and that was a huge pain! Just getting to the bolts was a big pain. And I had to notch the frame. But I've not had starter problems, probably because the starter is a PMGR unit so is much smaller. And I had the headers Jet Hot coated so they don't radiate nearly as much heat as un-coated headers do.

[Matt Wood]

I want to make a full custom stainless exhaust system in the summer of this year, i really want to go down the long tube header route but have heard lots of horror stories of burning out starters because of the heat and (the worst one) having to notch the frame to make them fit!

I can't speak to any issues specifically with the 351w, but I have read of some issues with the 302, and I always attribute that to guys installing Mustang headers on trucks. Mustang headers are cheap and plentiful, but they run closer to the starter on the trucks than they do on the cars with the smaller flywheels. Rick may know more about that topic.

I went with truck specific shorty headers...BBK's in chrome, and I'm quite happy with them. I went this route for simplicity sakes, and while I did run full dual exhaust, I was able run them in the location of the stock single exhaust. I know you want long tubes, I'm just throwing this out there as a Plan-B for you;).

PS: One small bit of advice I can give is to buy good gaskets and bolts (if required). Two high performance engine building shops recommended Remflex gaskets to me, and so far they have been great. No leaks whatsoever. I also went with longer ARP header bolts as the ones that came with my BBK's were too short.

Whatever HP I may have sacrificed in not going with longtubes I am OK with as my truck is just a cruiser/driver, and I was going more for "pretty" than for "power".

Thanks for the info, I only really want to run long tubes so that it looks cleaner in the engine bay and there isnt a joint (for leaking in the future) right there. I am going to do some research and may just have to bite the bullet and order some that look good and hope they fit! Thanks for the tip on bolts and gaskets, i will definitely be doing as you say. No need to cheap out on that stuff!

Gary, do you have a picture of the notch you cut into Big Blue? im not 10% against it but i don't want it to look shoddy if you know what i mean, i want it to look as clean as possible

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the info, I only really want to run long tubes so that it looks cleaner in the engine bay and there isnt a joint (for leaking in the future) right there. I am going to do some research and may just have to bite the bullet and order some that look good and hope they fit! Thanks for the tip on bolts and gaskets, i will definitely be doing as you say. No need to cheap out on that stuff!

Gary, do you have a picture of the notch you cut into Big Blue? im not 10% against it but i don't want it to look shoddy if you know what i mean, i want it to look as clean as possible

Matt - Rather than put the pics, plural, here why not have you go to that post in Big Blue's thread. The reason is that there is an explanation there that might help.

However, bear in mind that Big Blue is an F250HD, which means the frame rails are a lot wider than those on an F150 or Bronco. And the 460 itself is much wider than a 351W. All of which means the header has to be a whole lot closer to the frame than in your case.

On the gaskets and headers, I'm running L&L headers and they have a 1/2" thick flange that goes against the head. That is much thicker than most headers and seems to be a big part of why I've not had gasket problems. I'm not saying L&L are the best, but that the thickness of the flange is important.

[Matt Wood]

Matt - Rather than put the pics, plural, here why not have you go to that post in Big Blue's thread. The reason is that there is an explanation there that might help.

However, bear in mind that Big Blue is an F250HD, which means the frame rails are a lot wider than those on an F150 or Bronco. And the 460 itself is much wider than a 351W. All of which means the header has to be a whole lot closer to the frame than in your case.

On the gaskets and headers, I'm running L&L headers and they have a 1/2" thick flange that goes against the head. That is much thicker than most headers and seems to be a big part of why I've not had gasket problems. I'm not saying L&L are the best, but that the thickness of the flange is important.

Thanks for that! I will remember that they are totally different lol, that notch you cut looks brilliant! id be more than happy to do that if need be! I've seen a lot of butchery online with people 'notching the frame' which did put me off but that has changed my mind! no one would ever be able to tell really.

[Rusty_S85]

I want to make a full custom stainless exhaust system in the summer of this year, i really want to go down the long tube header route but have heard lots of horror stories of burning out starters because of the heat and (the worst one) having to notch the frame to make them fit!

I can't speak to any issues specifically with the 351w, but I have read of some issues with the 302, and I always attribute that to guys installing Mustang headers on trucks. Mustang headers are cheap and plentiful, but they run closer to the starter on the trucks than they do on the cars with the smaller flywheels. Rick may know more about that topic.

I went with truck specific shorty headers...BBK's in chrome, and I'm quite happy with them. I went this route for simplicity sakes, and while I did run full dual exhaust, I was able run them in the location of the stock single exhaust. I know you want long tubes, I'm just throwing this out there as a Plan-B for you;).

PS: One small bit of advice I can give is to buy good gaskets and bolts (if required). Two high performance engine building shops recommended Remflex gaskets to me, and so far they have been great. No leaks whatsoever. I also went with longer ARP header bolts as the ones that came with my BBK's were too short.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n82627/IMG_4604.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n82627/IMG_4606.jpg

Whatever HP I may have sacrificed in not going with longtubes I am OK with as my truck is just a cruiser/driver, and I was going more for "pretty" than for "power".

Yep I hope to post fitment for the headers I bought for my truck they are shorty headers such as the ones you posted but mine are Hedman and they are for 1986 - 1996 F-series/Bronco with a 302. I looked up the Y pipe part number and 82 - 86 shows the same part number Y pipes. But considering that I am looking at aftermarket Y pipes for a 86 - 96 I shouldnt have any fitment issues.

Stock photo of the ones I got. Still have to decide what color to have them ceramic coated as I got mine in the painted so I can have them ceramic coated in a color of my choice as I hate the silver.

[Andre]

Matt,

I have long tube headers under my 1982 Bronco 351W, no issue's at all with heat or fitment. We have made a custom stainless connection from the headers going aft. I stayed with the one side exit on the right rear wheel, but this can altered anyway you want.

Basically from the headers, we installed the V shape clamp, coming across underneath C6 oil pan and join them before going over the gearbox frame. This piece is one item, but easy to remove when needed. In de picture you see that I have installed a valve that I can open before the silencer, this one we still need to join over the silencer, rather than being open to the floor.

See pictures.