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1984 Bronco build thread


StraightSix

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Ahhh! Makes sense.

Where are you placing them?

Gary,

my plan is to make a small panel face for them and mount it under the dash just below the "wallet pocket" (or maybe its for cigarettes?? Ive never really known) just to the right of the steering wheel. my bronco had a heated rear glass control box in that location so there is some bracketry I can use for mounting. my rear glass is apparently not original because I have a standard non-heat window and in Ga that isnt really a very important feature anyhow. I mocked up the panel with cardboard to make sure Id be able to see the gauges well and that it wouldnt be in the way of anything like the transfer case shifter. I contemplated putting the gauges inside the "wallet pocket" in the dash but decided Id rather reserve that for recessed mounting space for switches at a later date. I like what you did with Big Blues extra gages and switches by the way, I just dont want to put holes in my new "radio delete" bezel courtesy of Rembrant.

you know, while Im thinking about it.. does anyone have experience making heat shields? My exhaust manifold melted the pigtail on the back of my alternator. nothing else seemed to be damaged and I already rebuilt the pigtail/harness but Im sure it will happen again and the heat cant be good for the alternator. Id like to make a heat shield for that spot but dont have any experience. would a simple piece of bent thin gauge steel work well, is there a good commercial solution (as far as the material goes), or do most people MacGyver something together with a mix of insulating materials and thing gauge metal? Thanks!

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Gary,

my plan is to make a small panel face for them and mount it under the dash just below the "wallet pocket" (or maybe its for cigarettes?? Ive never really known) just to the right of the steering wheel. my bronco had a heated rear glass control box in that location so there is some bracketry I can use for mounting. my rear glass is apparently not original because I have a standard non-heat window and in Ga that isnt really a very important feature anyhow. I mocked up the panel with cardboard to make sure Id be able to see the gauges well and that it wouldnt be in the way of anything like the transfer case shifter. I contemplated putting the gauges inside the "wallet pocket" in the dash but decided Id rather reserve that for recessed mounting space for switches at a later date. I like what you did with Big Blues extra gages and switches by the way, I just dont want to put holes in my new "radio delete" bezel courtesy of Rembrant.

you know, while Im thinking about it.. does anyone have experience making heat shields? My exhaust manifold melted the pigtail on the back of my alternator. nothing else seemed to be damaged and I already rebuilt the pigtail/harness but Im sure it will happen again and the heat cant be good for the alternator. Id like to make a heat shield for that spot but dont have any experience. would a simple piece of bent thin gauge steel work well, is there a good commercial solution (as far as the material goes), or do most people MacGyver something together with a mix of insulating materials and thing gauge metal? Thanks!

The switches on Big Blue are set into a radio bezel from a medium-duty truck, like an F600. They used the same interior as the Bullnose trucks for many years, and they had a spot for switches above the radio.

As for the pocket right of the steering column, you can actually put gauges in there. I made a piece out of plastic to take two gauges, and you can see how I did it on the page at About Me/Projects/Gauge Pocket.

On heat shields, you don't really have to have insulation if you put a piece of metal between the heat source and the part you want to protect. I made the one shown below for the OX actuator for Big Blue's front axle out of stainless, but you could make it out of aluminum and it would be very effective.

OX_Actuator_26_Shield_-_Front_View.thumb.jpg.5d1b7e972d2c2aa8ac3ea1e3c2686a6d.jpg

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The switches on Big Blue are set into a radio bezel from a medium-duty truck, like an F600. They used the same interior as the Bullnose trucks for many years, and they had a spot for switches above the radio.

As for the pocket right of the steering column, you can actually put gauges in there. I made a piece out of plastic to take two gauges, and you can see how I did it on the page at About Me/Projects/Gauge Pocket.

On heat shields, you don't really have to have insulation if you put a piece of metal between the heat source and the part you want to protect. I made the one shown below for the OX actuator for Big Blue's front axle out of stainless, but you could make it out of aluminum and it would be very effective.

Gary, there is a lot of really clean work on your truck. Felt like that needed to he said.

My current plan is to put the gages underneath, then make a panel to go into the pocket and carry either 6 or 8 rocker switches that will control a bank of 6 or 8 relays. Then, the relays can be used for.. well.. anything. I think that bank of relays will end up living in the factory location for the digital clock (where you mounted your switches). There is a surprising amount of realestate back there. Then, when I add things as time goes on it should be easy to expand into powering them through rocker switch controlled relays. I like the idea of the switches living recessed into that pocket because it should make it hard for them to be accidentally engaged which could be problematic while driving (think throttle kicker for winching, elocker in front diff, etc).

Thanks for the recommendation on the heat shield! I actually already have some thing gage aluminum sitting around so thats ideal.

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Gary, there is a lot of really clean work on your truck. Felt like that needed to he said.

My current plan is to put the gages underneath, then make a panel to go into the pocket and carry either 6 or 8 rocker switches that will control a bank of 6 or 8 relays. Then, the relays can be used for.. well.. anything. I think that bank of relays will end up living in the factory location for the digital clock (where you mounted your switches). There is a surprising amount of realestate back there. Then, when I add things as time goes on it should be easy to expand into powering them through rocker switch controlled relays. I like the idea of the switches living recessed into that pocket because it should make it hard for them to be accidentally engaged which could be problematic while driving (think throttle kicker for winching, elocker in front diff, etc).

Thanks for the recommendation on the heat shield! I actually already have some thing gage aluminum sitting around so thats ideal.

Thanks!

On the rockers, I think you can get 4 of the Carling switches like I used in the pocket. It would be tight but I think they'd fit. If you are interested in them I recommend Over The River And Through The Woods. Those guys know their stuff and can give you essentially anything you want.

And you are right, there is a lot of real estate behind where the clock goes. However, you'll have to bring all of that power into the cab and then back out to whatever you are powering. You might consider using a relay/power distribution box under the hood. Then all you have to do is take the wires from the switches out to the relays, and those wires are lots smaller.

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Thanks!

On the rockers, I think you can get 4 of the Carling switches like I used in the pocket. It would be tight but I think they'd fit. If you are interested in them I recommend Over The River And Through The Woods. Those guys know their stuff and can give you essentially anything you want.

And you are right, there is a lot of real estate behind where the clock goes. However, you'll have to bring all of that power into the cab and then back out to whatever you are powering. You might consider using a relay/power distribution box under the hood. Then all you have to do is take the wires from the switches out to the relays, and those wires are lots smaller.

Gary,

And exceedingly valid point.

All of this is just in the "doodles on a napkin phase" planning wise and subject to change but I plan to do a fairly extensive electrical upgrade sometime soon (after I get what is already taken apart put back together). My rough plan is to set up the electrical infrastructure Ill need to be able to do basically anything Ill ever want to do all in one swoop since it will be easier to do a thorough job once. Id like to utilize the space behind the radio bezel becasue there is lots of it, its central, its reasonably mechanically and electrically isolated from engine/chassis stuff, and access is relatively easy by taking off the bezel. This would include the space originally intended for a radio. I want to make provisions for rocker switch operated equipment (as discussed above), a sound system, possible efi down the road, and who knows what else. Whenever that project comes around there is a relatively good chance that Ill pull power off the battery post and into the cab to facilitate all of this. For now I dont want to tear the whole thing down electrically, its already in a million peices mechanically. I just want startup to go smoothly for the sake of break in on the cam and rest of the engine when that day comes. For now, Im only entertaining projects that have a low/zero chance of impacting that goal.

On that note.. Im considering buying a new tailgate and painting it. Then I could install my new rear glass seals. Or, the front hubs havent been rebuilt yet.

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Gary,

And exceedingly valid point.

All of this is just in the "doodles on a napkin phase" planning wise and subject to change but I plan to do a fairly extensive electrical upgrade sometime soon (after I get what is already taken apart put back together). My rough plan is to set up the electrical infrastructure Ill need to be able to do basically anything Ill ever want to do all in one swoop since it will be easier to do a thorough job once. Id like to utilize the space behind the radio bezel becasue there is lots of it, its central, its reasonably mechanically and electrically isolated from engine/chassis stuff, and access is relatively easy by taking off the bezel. This would include the space originally intended for a radio. I want to make provisions for rocker switch operated equipment (as discussed above), a sound system, possible efi down the road, and who knows what else. Whenever that project comes around there is a relatively good chance that Ill pull power off the battery post and into the cab to facilitate all of this. For now I dont want to tear the whole thing down electrically, its already in a million peices mechanically. I just want startup to go smoothly for the sake of break in on the cam and rest of the engine when that day comes. For now, Im only entertaining projects that have a low/zero chance of impacting that goal.

On that note.. Im considering buying a new tailgate and painting it. Then I could install my new rear glass seals. Or, the front hubs havent been rebuilt yet.

It is good to plan ahead. Then you get to change your mind over time and when the time comes to do it you've thought it out. I usually regret shooting from the hip.

As for the 'gate and hubs, those are just more layers of the onion to peel. And cry. And peel. And cry. But pretty soon you have enough for a Bloomin' Onion. :nabble_smiley_good:

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  • 1 month later...

It is good to plan ahead. Then you get to change your mind over time and when the time comes to do it you've thought it out. I usually regret shooting from the hip.

As for the 'gate and hubs, those are just more layers of the onion to peel. And cry. And peel. And cry. But pretty soon you have enough for a Bloomin' Onion. :nabble_smiley_good:

Hi Guys!

still moving along slowly. Its my blocks turn at the machine shop but part availability issues are eating us alive. at this point, Id settle for a guarantee that Id have the engine back by March. I dont think Lloyds of London writes policies like that though..

Im kicking around buying everything to rebuild my front hubs while I wait. I may do that when some cash frees up after Christmas. It also occurred to me that I could find a junk yard front "3rd member" (if you can call it that), clean it up, check the basics (backlash, preloads etc) and pack it with grease for a rainy day. or maybe rebuild it down to road. and ofcourse there are other little things here and there.

I drained all of the gas out of the bronco in August sometime and burned it in other vehicles so it wouldn't go bad. I thought Id be starting the engine up sometime in October or November at that time so I left it empty. It just occurred to me that I may need to put something in the tank to prevent it from rotting out over the next few months. A new fuel tank is in the cards but hopefully not right now.. thoughts? maybe a few gallons of stabilized or zero ethanol 93?

I hope everyone is doing great! -John

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Hi Guys!

still moving along slowly. Its my blocks turn at the machine shop but part availability issues are eating us alive. at this point, Id settle for a guarantee that Id have the engine back by March. I dont think Lloyds of London writes policies like that though..

Im kicking around buying everything to rebuild my front hubs while I wait. I may do that when some cash frees up after Christmas. It also occurred to me that I could find a junk yard front "3rd member" (if you can call it that), clean it up, check the basics (backlash, preloads etc) and pack it with grease for a rainy day. or maybe rebuild it down to road. and ofcourse there are other little things here and there.

I drained all of the gas out of the bronco in August sometime and burned it in other vehicles so it wouldn't go bad. I thought Id be starting the engine up sometime in October or November at that time so I left it empty. It just occurred to me that I may need to put something in the tank to prevent it from rotting out over the next few months. A new fuel tank is in the cards but hopefully not right now.. thoughts? maybe a few gallons of stabilized or zero ethanol 93?

I hope everyone is doing great! -John

Sounds like you are going to have some time to attend to other things. The front hubs might be a good place to start. :nabble_smiley_good:

As for the gas tank, if it isn't dry I'd consider Stabil. Wouldn't take much.

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  • 1 month later...

Sounds like you are going to have some time to attend to other things. The front hubs might be a good place to start. :nabble_smiley_good:

As for the gas tank, if it isn't dry I'd consider Stabil. Wouldn't take much.

20220123_191656.jpg.0e94768c97a6cedf8bc1c9669437c6c5.jpg

Hi guys! The new gage face is mocked in. I should have it permanently mounted tomorrow, then I can start working on the AFR meter power supply, and perhaps the head unit wiring. Both will probably run off of key in run position operated relays, but they will likely both draw power from the battery post through seperate wires as the head is a large variable load and the AFR documentation says only a battery lug will do for power. The other brackets are nearly finished as well. Then need fit up/trimming and the throttle bracket is getting welded in braces. The original throttle bracket flexed considerably causing strange pedal feel. Engine progress is coming along slowly. Maybe Ill have it back my late Feb. I hope everyone is doing well.

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