ssVEC Relay/Fuse Boxes

[Rusty_S85]

I know you said you're leaning towards the 10 relay but just wanted to point out that the powr-blok maxi fuse module is only rated for 80A, unfortunately.

Well thats fine I am not sure I would want the high current flowing through the box anyways considering that it might introduce RFI into my sniper wiring which would be in the box.

For me I could free up one relay in the box I currently have that has 6 relays by reducing my headlight relays from 2 to 1 and just use the center pin for my low beams and have my high beam circuit trigger the relay for high beam and I can jumper the high beam trigger to my driving light relay. This would have me using 5 relays out of 6 but if I want to add four more lights on a roll bar in the bed of my truck I would need two relays for them as well as I doubt I could get all four lights to run off one relay when the total would be 400 watts of light. At battery voltage of 12.8V, 400 watts would be 31A of current which would be too much for a standard mini relay rated at 30A. With engine running at 14.3V the current would drop to 28A which still would be border line for a 30A relay so I would need two relays for pairs of lights.

I could get LED but the KC Daylighters with LED upgrades just dont seem to put out as much light as a Hallogen, reviews claims they do but they are narrower than other LED lights and I suspect narrower than the Hallogen bulbs as well. Plus my goal if I do add a roll bar and extra lights is two flood lights and two spot lights. KC doesnt have a Daylighter with LED in anything but a spotlight from what I saw.

Well I did some browsing today on AliExpress at work out of sheer boredom waiting to leave.

Found a similar fuse box to the one I found initially that has 10 relays and 15 fuses. Difference is this one is smaller at 9 relays and 9 fuses.

I think this would be easier to mount being smaller in size, I could in theory mount it where my fuse block is on the core support where the driverside snorkel attachment would go. Could take a plate of plexiglass and attach it to the core support through two of the holes that already exist then could screw this box into the plexiglass and it would be hidden out of view, then I can run a mega fuse mount on the passengerside inner fender. Would put this box closer to my AC compressor and sniper as well as the wire routing for my CB and CB amplifier that runs through the firewall on the driverside. All I would have to do is just run a dedicated power and ground wire to the battery and find a better way of doing it. Maybe route it along the OE wires over the top of the engine to the passenger side but then that would require something like a 6ga wire for the distance to be able to handle the amps I would pull through this box max.

[kramttocs]

Well I did some browsing today on AliExpress at work out of sheer boredom waiting to leave.

Found a similar fuse box to the one I found initially that has 10 relays and 15 fuses. Difference is this one is smaller at 9 relays and 9 fuses.

I think this would be easier to mount being smaller in size, I could in theory mount it where my fuse block is on the core support where the driverside snorkel attachment would go. Could take a plate of plexiglass and attach it to the core support through two of the holes that already exist then could screw this box into the plexiglass and it would be hidden out of view, then I can run a mega fuse mount on the passengerside inner fender. Would put this box closer to my AC compressor and sniper as well as the wire routing for my CB and CB amplifier that runs through the firewall on the driverside. All I would have to do is just run a dedicated power and ground wire to the battery and find a better way of doing it. Maybe route it along the OE wires over the top of the engine to the passenger side but then that would require something like a 6ga wire for the distance to be able to handle the amps I would pull through this box max.

The smaller footprint would be nice. I am on the fence about mounting it on the core support though. If me, I would instead opt for either side inner fender.

Aside from directly mounting it to the fender using a custom standoff/platform you could, on either side, get one of the diesel platforms (from passenger side) and repurpose it. On the pass side you could mount the relay box, vacuum can/ball, and mega fuse. On the driver side, the relay box, duraspark unit, and mega fuse. Just an idea.

As for running the wiring - going over the radiator in that channel works well. I've got, iirc, (2) 1/0 cables, (2) 2awg, a 4awg, and a handful of smaller going over there. Add some clamps to the shroud bolts and they will stay put.

Not against mounting things on those core suppose uprights (I have my onboard battery tender mounted there), just not sure I'd want it as a central hub location for wiring.

[Rusty_S85]

The smaller footprint would be nice. I am on the fence about mounting it on the core support though. If me, I would instead opt for either side inner fender.

Aside from directly mounting it to the fender using a custom standoff/platform you could, on either side, get one of the diesel platforms (from passenger side) and repurpose it. On the pass side you could mount the relay box, vacuum can/ball, and mega fuse. On the driver side, the relay box, duraspark unit, and mega fuse. Just an idea.

As for running the wiring - going over the radiator in that channel works well. I've got, iirc, (2) 1/0 cables, (2) 2awg, a 4awg, and a handful of smaller going over there. Add some clamps to the shroud bolts and they will stay put.

Not against mounting things on those core suppose uprights (I have my onboard battery tender mounted there), just not sure I'd want it as a central hub location for wiring.

My issue is I want the wiring so if I have to pull the core support I dont have to cut wiring. I got one idea for using mounts to the core support itself along the top that I may try. As far as the box goes, below is how I currently have my wiring done, but I have my headlight relays mounted below my power/ground junction and then the relay for my driving lights is mounted on the fender itself as I found existing holes to mount my items so I could revert if I ever wanted to without having extra holes. So now I am redesigning my layout to be more centralized so its not so bad. Thats why I was thinking on the inner fenders but then with this smaller box I could in theory still mount it where I currently have my box now but instead of having all these extra stand alone items they would be contained in one box. Personally I would like to mount it on the fender where the vacuum ball would go. I dont have one on my truck as my truck is dealer AC not factory so I could use those holes to mount this box but I would have to figure out a way with a thick piece of plexiglass or some other kind of plastic so I can mount it in the middle to the fender through existing holes and then be thick enough to use a thin short screw to screw the box to the backer without drilling holes in my plastic fender. I thought about doing it on the driver side but the more distance I have to run it the larger gauge wire I would have to run as the main power wire. Its why part of me really wants to go with it on the passenger side but the draw back is I will still have to run wires to the driver side either across the core support or across the engine itself. If I did it across the engine itself I could have a main plug coming out of the box so I can unplug it and drape the wiring to the driver side allowing for ease of engine removal.

But my mega fuse would be still mounted on the passenger side fender no matter where I mount this box. The up side is if I mount it on the passenger side it would reduce the length of main power wire which means I can move more amperage through a smaller gauge wire.

Cause doing the math using fuse size for what would be in the fuse box would be 125A worth of fused protection. Actual draw is not that much though, for example my Silver Star Ultras in my ECE composite housings are 8.59A low beam and 9.38A high beam at nominal batter voltage for both headlight bulbs, the fuse is 15A for that circuit. My two 100w KC driving lights at nominal battery voltage is 15.63A and I have a 20A fuse for those two lights. If I add two sets of 100W spot lights and flood lights to a roll bar the pair of spots and pair of floods would have independent relays and fuses which would be 15.63A per pair which is another two 20A fuses. My CB is a 5A fuse but is lucky to pull 0.40A since it is regulated to 5w max by the feds but I have mine tuned down to 2w so it doesnt over drive my amplifier which is 0.16A. My Amplifier is only pulling 10A at most at peak output. Sniper is fused at 30A but the main draw is the fuel pump which a quality Walbro fuel pump in the tank is only pulling 5A to 6A normally.

So for me I would need a 6ga wire to be able to power everything without having my main power wire undersized. If I can keep the wire short I might be able to get away with a 10ga power wire which is about the largest I would be able to fit into a crimp fitting for these boxes that are sold. 12ga is what they are typically designed for at the most. Realistically I probably would be ok with a 12ga or even a 14ga considering even if I turn every circuit on and use the nominal battery voltage amperage pull with giving 10A for the sniper to be generous for the fuel pump as well as the power to power up the sniper itself I come up with some 76.42A of power and at 13.8V I come up with 72.34A of power and using my favorite site for wire gauge sizing which is Wirebarn it tells me that at 13.8V with 72.34 Amp max with a 2% drop I can use a 14Ga wire for up to 1.51ft length, 12Ga for 2.40ft length, 10Ga for 3.82ft length, or 8Ga for 6.07ft length.

So realistically if I mount the box on my passenger side inner fender I could in theory run 12Ga as I dont believe the wire from my positive battery terminal to the box mounted roughly where the vacuum ball would be mounted is more than 2.40ft of wire. I might even be able to get away with 14Ga at 1.51ft length.

https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html

This is how I pick what size wire I would need for different circuits and I can also go to a dual wire setup for when two wires are being used. I have to redo my figuring for my headlight wires cause I used paired amperage for both bulbs when each wire will be branched out of the same relay to each bulb which each bulb is operating a less amperage than the total of both. I also need to go back and figure up for my sniper cause I never figured that up but they use a 10ga wire that is supplied with the kit to be your fuel pump power wire and I will be using that, only thing I will do differently is I will run a ground wire from the battery along with this blue wire in a woven loom to the fuel gauge so the fuel pump on my setup would have power and ground directly from the battery and the power will be controlled by the Sniper itself. Only ground at the back I will use is for the OE sending unit which I am going to break up a cheap OE 82 sending unit to get the sending unit plug out of the sending unit so I can attach a wire to it making the new 85-86 gauge assembly plug and play with my OE sender wire so if I ever decide to do a OE factory restoration down the road on my truck I can revert back.

[kramttocs]

The smaller footprint would be nice. I am on the fence about mounting it on the core support though. If me, I would instead opt for either side inner fender.

Aside from directly mounting it to the fender using a custom standoff/platform you could, on either side, get one of the diesel platforms (from passenger side) and repurpose it. On the pass side you could mount the relay box, vacuum can/ball, and mega fuse. On the driver side, the relay box, duraspark unit, and mega fuse. Just an idea.

As for running the wiring - going over the radiator in that channel works well. I've got, iirc, (2) 1/0 cables, (2) 2awg, a 4awg, and a handful of smaller going over there. Add some clamps to the shroud bolts and they will stay put.

Not against mounting things on those core suppose uprights (I have my onboard battery tender mounted there), just not sure I'd want it as a central hub location for wiring.

My issue is I want the wiring so if I have to pull the core support I dont have to cut wiring. I got one idea for using mounts to the core support itself along the top that I may try. As far as the box goes, below is how I currently have my wiring done, but I have my headlight relays mounted below my power/ground junction and then the relay for my driving lights is mounted on the fender itself as I found existing holes to mount my items so I could revert if I ever wanted to without having extra holes. So now I am redesigning my layout to be more centralized so its not so bad. Thats why I was thinking on the inner fenders but then with this smaller box I could in theory still mount it where I currently have my box now but instead of having all these extra stand alone items they would be contained in one box. Personally I would like to mount it on the fender where the vacuum ball would go. I dont have one on my truck as my truck is dealer AC not factory so I could use those holes to mount this box but I would have to figure out a way with a thick piece of plexiglass or some other kind of plastic so I can mount it in the middle to the fender through existing holes and then be thick enough to use a thin short screw to screw the box to the backer without drilling holes in my plastic fender. I thought about doing it on the driver side but the more distance I have to run it the larger gauge wire I would have to run as the main power wire. Its why part of me really wants to go with it on the passenger side but the draw back is I will still have to run wires to the driver side either across the core support or across the engine itself. If I did it across the engine itself I could have a main plug coming out of the box so I can unplug it and drape the wiring to the driver side allowing for ease of engine removal.

But my mega fuse would be still mounted on the passenger side fender no matter where I mount this box. The up side is if I mount it on the passenger side it would reduce the length of main power wire which means I can move more amperage through a smaller gauge wire.

Cause doing the math using fuse size for what would be in the fuse box would be 125A worth of fused protection. Actual draw is not that much though, for example my Silver Star Ultras in my ECE composite housings are 8.59A low beam and 9.38A high beam at nominal batter voltage for both headlight bulbs, the fuse is 15A for that circuit. My two 100w KC driving lights at nominal battery voltage is 15.63A and I have a 20A fuse for those two lights. If I add two sets of 100W spot lights and flood lights to a roll bar the pair of spots and pair of floods would have independent relays and fuses which would be 15.63A per pair which is another two 20A fuses. My CB is a 5A fuse but is lucky to pull 0.40A since it is regulated to 5w max by the feds but I have mine tuned down to 2w so it doesnt over drive my amplifier which is 0.16A. My Amplifier is only pulling 10A at most at peak output. Sniper is fused at 30A but the main draw is the fuel pump which a quality Walbro fuel pump in the tank is only pulling 5A to 6A normally.

So for me I would need a 6ga wire to be able to power everything without having my main power wire undersized. If I can keep the wire short I might be able to get away with a 10ga power wire which is about the largest I would be able to fit into a crimp fitting for these boxes that are sold. 12ga is what they are typically designed for at the most. Realistically I probably would be ok with a 12ga or even a 14ga considering even if I turn every circuit on and use the nominal battery voltage amperage pull with giving 10A for the sniper to be generous for the fuel pump as well as the power to power up the sniper itself I come up with some 76.42A of power and at 13.8V I come up with 72.34A of power and using my favorite site for wire gauge sizing which is Wirebarn it tells me that at 13.8V with 72.34 Amp max with a 2% drop I can use a 14Ga wire for up to 1.51ft length, 12Ga for 2.40ft length, 10Ga for 3.82ft length, or 8Ga for 6.07ft length.

So realistically if I mount the box on my passenger side inner fender I could in theory run 12Ga as I dont believe the wire from my positive battery terminal to the box mounted roughly where the vacuum ball would be mounted is more than 2.40ft of wire. I might even be able to get away with 14Ga at 1.51ft length.

https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html

This is how I pick what size wire I would need for different circuits and I can also go to a dual wire setup for when two wires are being used. I have to redo my figuring for my headlight wires cause I used paired amperage for both bulbs when each wire will be branched out of the same relay to each bulb which each bulb is operating a less amperage than the total of both. I also need to go back and figure up for my sniper cause I never figured that up but they use a 10ga wire that is supplied with the kit to be your fuel pump power wire and I will be using that, only thing I will do differently is I will run a ground wire from the battery along with this blue wire in a woven loom to the fuel gauge so the fuel pump on my setup would have power and ground directly from the battery and the power will be controlled by the Sniper itself. Only ground at the back I will use is for the OE sending unit which I am going to break up a cheap OE 82 sending unit to get the sending unit plug out of the sending unit so I can attach a wire to it making the new 85-86 gauge assembly plug and play with my OE sender wire so if I ever decide to do a OE factory restoration down the road on my truck I can revert back.

No need to cut anything. I am saying go over the radiator (not in it). If you needed to remove the core support it would just be a matter of unclamping it and draping it over or under the engine.

Wirebarn's calculator is very handy. Was on there a lot today actually. I don't doubt your numbers at all but when feeding a fuse/relay box, personally, I would go much larger even if you don't need it now. Purely for example if 10 is good for all collectively, I'd go with a 6 or even 4 just because it's still pretty easy to work with. Then from the mega I'd take the 6/4 into the box and once inside branch it into a bunch of smaller gauge wires going to each fuse. When making branch offs like this, I try to start with as close of a gauge as possible to the physical size of the bundled smaller wires.

But that's just my approach and not trying to push it on anyone. You know your numbers and distances and sounds like you have solid plans for each location

[Rusty_S85]

No need to cut anything. I am saying go over the radiator (not in it). If you needed to remove the core support it would just be a matter of unclamping it and draping it over or under the engine.

Wirebarn's calculator is very handy. Was on there a lot today actually. I don't doubt your numbers at all but when feeding a fuse/relay box, personally, I would go much larger even if you don't need it now. Purely for example if 10 is good for all collectively, I'd go with a 6 or even 4 just because it's still pretty easy to work with. Then from the mega I'd take the 6/4 into the box and once inside branch it into a bunch of smaller gauge wires going to each fuse. When making branch offs like this, I try to start with as close of a gauge as possible to the physical size of the bundled smaller wires.

But that's just my approach and not trying to push it on anyone. You know your numbers and distances and sounds like you have solid plans for each location

So basically how I have it now, I have the wire going along the core support not in the core support. I tried in the core support but it looked weird.

It is handy, it allowed me to piece together what wires I would need so I could start ordering the SLX Crosslink wire and what gauge I needed. On the gauge of the main power wire I would be limited on that unless I could find a small enough eyelet to screw the heavy gauge wire to the brass threaded insert where the Mini ANL fuse goes which I finally found out what fuses goes there. The Mini ANL fuse apparently is big in stereo so I can get the Mini ANL in 100A, 125A, 150A, 175A, 200A. So in theory I could throw a 10ga wire on for example and throw a 100A or 125A ANL fuse and have it provide power to the fuse box internally with smaller gauge wire since the distance from the ANL fuse to the fuses themselves would be less than 6 inches. Or I could go 50A and split the circuits up leaving headlights, driving lights, auxiliary lights, Fuel Injection on one Mini ANL fuse and then have other circuits such as my CB Radio and my CB Amp on another but then that would negate the purpose as I would be running a second Mini ANL fuse just for two circuits as the primary circuits I would want isolated from the rest of the box are my lights and FI which is pretty much what the majorty of my box is all covering. I guess I could add a fuse for my AC Clutch wire since I will be running it through the 87A pin on a relay for an AC cut out for my sniper to control. I dont currently have a fuse for this wire from when the dealer unit was installed. But still the power is coming from inside the truck not outside so it wouldnt go through the Mini ANL fuse, it would just go into the fuse box through a fuse before going to the power supply side of the relay and then through the 87A pin back to the AC compressor.

Another option would be to run two power wires at 12ga or 14 ga which would be 9ga or 11ga combined and have them run to just one Mini ANL fuse or I could run them to two separate mini ANL fuses and then split up the circuits have the fuel injection and headlights on one circuit and have auxiliary lights, cb, cb amp on another circuit.

There are a few ways to organize this setup but I am trying to limit the wire size and with a 9 relay 9 fuse box I am pretty much limiting myself on expansion in the future. Currently I need 6 relays to do what I am doing and they are as follows

Relay 1 : Low Beam Headlight

Relay 2 : High Beam Headlight

Relay 3 : Apollo 6" Driving Light

Relay 4 : A/C Cutout

Relay 5 : A/C Step Up (idles engine up when AC switched on)

Relay 6 : Fuel Pump Relay

For fuses they are as follows

Fuse 1 : Headlight 15A

Fuse 2 : Driving Lights 25A

Fuse 3 : CB Radio 5A

Fuse 4 : CB Amp 15A

Fuse 5 : Fuel Pump 30A

Fuse 6 : AC clutch 30A ?

I threw 6 in there as I dont have a plan for that, I am looking at 5 fuses and 6 relays. If I get the Go Rhino roll bars and throw on a pair of KC Daylighter spot lights and a pair of KC Daylighter flood lights that would require two more relays and two more fuses bringing my required to 8 relays and 7 or 8 fuses. This would pretty much on the small 9 relay and 9 fuse box allow me for expansion of one or two more fuses and one more relay.

I could go with the bigger box but that will only give me 2 spare relays with the roll bar upgrade and give me 7 or 8 fuses left over. I just dont know if I could add that many more circuits to my truck.

If Dakota Digital comes out with a RTX retro gauge cluster for our trucks then I would run a battery hot through this box through a fuse to provide battery power so that would take up the last fuse on the smaller box or leave me with 1 fuse.

I thought about adding some of those LED rock lights that KC sells that you mount under your truck to illuminate the ground around your truck but if I did this all I would need is just a fuse but I dont know if I will do that. I also thought about adding some kind of aftermarket under hood light but I could always use the OE connector for power there.

Just a balancing act to see what would be better for me. I dont believe I would need more than 9 relays but I could always use more fuses though. But can I justify the larger size box though. The 10 relay/15 fuse box is 8" x 5" where as the 9 relay/9 fuse box is 6 1/2" x 4 1/2" which means it would fit a lot nicer on the plastic fender where the vacuum ball would have gone if I had one.

[kramttocs]

No need to cut anything. I am saying go over the radiator (not in it). If you needed to remove the core support it would just be a matter of unclamping it and draping it over or under the engine.

Wirebarn's calculator is very handy. Was on there a lot today actually. I don't doubt your numbers at all but when feeding a fuse/relay box, personally, I would go much larger even if you don't need it now. Purely for example if 10 is good for all collectively, I'd go with a 6 or even 4 just because it's still pretty easy to work with. Then from the mega I'd take the 6/4 into the box and once inside branch it into a bunch of smaller gauge wires going to each fuse. When making branch offs like this, I try to start with as close of a gauge as possible to the physical size of the bundled smaller wires.

But that's just my approach and not trying to push it on anyone. You know your numbers and distances and sounds like you have solid plans for each location

So basically how I have it now, I have the wire going along the core support not in the core support. I tried in the core support but it looked weird.

It is handy, it allowed me to piece together what wires I would need so I could start ordering the SLX Crosslink wire and what gauge I needed. On the gauge of the main power wire I would be limited on that unless I could find a small enough eyelet to screw the heavy gauge wire to the brass threaded insert where the Mini ANL fuse goes which I finally found out what fuses goes there. The Mini ANL fuse apparently is big in stereo so I can get the Mini ANL in 100A, 125A, 150A, 175A, 200A. So in theory I could throw a 10ga wire on for example and throw a 100A or 125A ANL fuse and have it provide power to the fuse box internally with smaller gauge wire since the distance from the ANL fuse to the fuses themselves would be less than 6 inches. Or I could go 50A and split the circuits up leaving headlights, driving lights, auxiliary lights, Fuel Injection on one Mini ANL fuse and then have other circuits such as my CB Radio and my CB Amp on another but then that would negate the purpose as I would be running a second Mini ANL fuse just for two circuits as the primary circuits I would want isolated from the rest of the box are my lights and FI which is pretty much what the majorty of my box is all covering. I guess I could add a fuse for my AC Clutch wire since I will be running it through the 87A pin on a relay for an AC cut out for my sniper to control. I dont currently have a fuse for this wire from when the dealer unit was installed. But still the power is coming from inside the truck not outside so it wouldnt go through the Mini ANL fuse, it would just go into the fuse box through a fuse before going to the power supply side of the relay and then through the 87A pin back to the AC compressor.

Another option would be to run two power wires at 12ga or 14 ga which would be 9ga or 11ga combined and have them run to just one Mini ANL fuse or I could run them to two separate mini ANL fuses and then split up the circuits have the fuel injection and headlights on one circuit and have auxiliary lights, cb, cb amp on another circuit.

There are a few ways to organize this setup but I am trying to limit the wire size and with a 9 relay 9 fuse box I am pretty much limiting myself on expansion in the future. Currently I need 6 relays to do what I am doing and they are as follows

Relay 1 : Low Beam Headlight

Relay 2 : High Beam Headlight

Relay 3 : Apollo 6" Driving Light

Relay 4 : A/C Cutout

Relay 5 : A/C Step Up (idles engine up when AC switched on)

Relay 6 : Fuel Pump Relay

For fuses they are as follows

Fuse 1 : Headlight 15A

Fuse 2 : Driving Lights 25A

Fuse 3 : CB Radio 5A

Fuse 4 : CB Amp 15A

Fuse 5 : Fuel Pump 30A

Fuse 6 : AC clutch 30A ?

I threw 6 in there as I dont have a plan for that, I am looking at 5 fuses and 6 relays. If I get the Go Rhino roll bars and throw on a pair of KC Daylighter spot lights and a pair of KC Daylighter flood lights that would require two more relays and two more fuses bringing my required to 8 relays and 7 or 8 fuses. This would pretty much on the small 9 relay and 9 fuse box allow me for expansion of one or two more fuses and one more relay.

I could go with the bigger box but that will only give me 2 spare relays with the roll bar upgrade and give me 7 or 8 fuses left over. I just dont know if I could add that many more circuits to my truck.

If Dakota Digital comes out with a RTX retro gauge cluster for our trucks then I would run a battery hot through this box through a fuse to provide battery power so that would take up the last fuse on the smaller box or leave me with 1 fuse.

I thought about adding some of those LED rock lights that KC sells that you mount under your truck to illuminate the ground around your truck but if I did this all I would need is just a fuse but I dont know if I will do that. I also thought about adding some kind of aftermarket under hood light but I could always use the OE connector for power there.

Just a balancing act to see what would be better for me. I dont believe I would need more than 9 relays but I could always use more fuses though. But can I justify the larger size box though. The 10 relay/15 fuse box is 8" x 5" where as the 9 relay/9 fuse box is 6 1/2" x 4 1/2" which means it would fit a lot nicer on the plastic fender where the vacuum ball would have gone if I had one.

I thought you said you were using an external mega fuse? Because of that I assumed you were bypassing the brass inserts in the box. Maybe that is for a different purpose?

[Rusty_S85]

I thought you said you were using an external mega fuse? Because of that I assumed you were bypassing the brass inserts in the box. Maybe that is for a different purpose?

Correct, the Mega fuse will be the fuse for my 3G alternator upgrade, the Mini ANL fuse is going to be the main fuse to protect the box and prevent all my circuits from drawing more amperage than the wire I have powering the box can safely handle. Like if I go with a 10ga wire and I have less than 3 feet of it to the Mini ANL fuse I could fuse it at 100A and that would blow before the 10ga wire would burn down.

Then for the Mega fuse, that will probably be a 100A fuse as well for the 130A 3G I will be running. With a V Belt I do not believe I would ever be able to generate the 150A that a normal 130A 3G alternator is fused to. I also doubt I would be able to generate more than 95A without slipping the belt but if I for some reason am able to produce more than 100A without belt slippage then I would consider upping the fuse then.