ssVEC Relay/Fuse Boxes

[kramttocs]

These boxes are an option for adding relays/fuses to our trucks. There are many, many other options out there so best to do some research and see what fits your needs best.

Here are the current offerings.

I am using both the 000 and the 004. I would consider the 004 to be a great all-in-one solution.

31S-000.pdf

31S-001.pdf

31S-002.pdf

31S-004.pdf

32S-300.pdf

Two suppliers are Connector Concepts Inc and Waytek Wire.

 

[kramttocs]

Those are the ones with the weather lock connectors that plug in right? I saw those and passed over them as I wasnt sure about the whole plug idea. I was looking for something I could have my wrapped wires go into the box and make their connections directly to the fuses and relays.

Plus what ever I do end up going with it has to be more than 6 fuses and more than 6 relays as thats what I currently have and with my EFI now I wont have any relays left over to add more auxiliary lighting or adding any auxiliary circuits down the road.

These use the Metri-pack 280 connectors that you will need to buy the mate for and terminate your wires in with female terminals. They do have weather seals on the connector and terminals.

So with that your wires won't enter the box like you are wanting. I see your point and for looks it annoyed me a bit at first since in one harness you may have to split wires to different connectors. After using it, I prefer the plugs now myself. Makes it easier to add circuits to without having to pull the whole box. I know some users are using the boxes that have standoffs where you snap the wires/terminals directly in the bottom and those are the same terminals the fuses and relays plug into. Similar to the Ford pdb.

Regarding future expansion, these can't really chain together so you are left with multiple boxes or the 32S big one.

Problem I see with that one is that it's a bit too much of a tradeoff for convenience over customization. With that many relays I'd want to be able to cascade some and with the shared hot and ground buss you can't.

Littlefuse makes some interlocking cases for megafuses but not sure about any that work with relays. Will do some looking.

The Ford unit Gary is using may be a good fit for you?

[Rusty_S85]

Those are the ones with the weather lock connectors that plug in right? I saw those and passed over them as I wasnt sure about the whole plug idea. I was looking for something I could have my wrapped wires go into the box and make their connections directly to the fuses and relays.

Plus what ever I do end up going with it has to be more than 6 fuses and more than 6 relays as thats what I currently have and with my EFI now I wont have any relays left over to add more auxiliary lighting or adding any auxiliary circuits down the road.

These use the Metri-pack 280 connectors that you will need to buy the mate for and terminate your wires in with female terminals. They do have weather seals on the connector and terminals.

So with that your wires won't enter the box like you are wanting. I see your point and for looks it annoyed me a bit at first since in one harness you may have to split wires to different connectors. After using it, I prefer the plugs now myself. Makes it easier to add circuits to without having to pull the whole box. I know some users are using the boxes that have standoffs where you snap the wires/terminals directly in the bottom and those are the same terminals the fuses and relays plug into. Similar to the Ford pdb.

Regarding future expansion, these can't really chain together so you are left with multiple boxes or the 32S big one.

Problem I see with that one is that it's a bit too much of a tradeoff for convenience over customization. With that many relays I'd want to be able to cascade some and with the shared hot and ground buss you can't.

Littlefuse makes some interlocking cases for megafuses but not sure about any that work with relays. Will do some looking.

The Ford unit Gary is using may be a good fit for you?

For me I am trying to find a way to use it without doing too much changing. The one below that I keep looking at I could in theory make a plexiglass backer bolt it through existing holes in my plastic fender on the passenger side then have stand offs that I can screw into to attach this box and mount it. Only problem is I dont know if these three fuses on the sides are capable of handling an alternator charging circuit.

My idea was to run all my wires inside and make my attachments including with the charge wire from the alternator, the brass terminals goes through and through so I can bolt the fuse on the top down and on the under side bolt the charge wire to one brass terminal then bolt the other end of the charge wire to the other side that will go to my battery side of the solenoid.

Currently I have 6 relays and 6 fuses in this box that I bought that I havent assembled yet.

Which in my original layout I had two spare relays which would allow me expansion for adding two pairs of auxiliary lights to a roll bar if I decide to make that upgrade. But then I decided to go Holley Sniper EFI and I want to run all my wires to this box as well so with new plans I repurposed the small five pin relay from a choke relay to a fuel pump relay, then the other two relays that were empty are now slated to be for my AC step up and AC cut out relays so I can have my sniper idle up when the AC is turned on and have the AC shut down when I go full throttle. Now my 6 fuse/6 relay box is full and I have no room for future light expansion. Tried to find like a 8 relay but couldnt find anything I liked this 10 relay/15 fuse that I posted first is the first one I like but I am afraid when I go to wash under my hood like I do once a year that I am going to have corrosion and shorts with the circuits in the box. I figure I could take and seal the box up but I would have to make sure I make the wires for my auxiliary circuits since I wont be able to take the box apart again, but then that will force me to make a splice connection which I wanted to avoid solider/splice joints in my auxiliary wiring.

[kramttocs]

Those are the ones with the weather lock connectors that plug in right? I saw those and passed over them as I wasnt sure about the whole plug idea. I was looking for something I could have my wrapped wires go into the box and make their connections directly to the fuses and relays.

Plus what ever I do end up going with it has to be more than 6 fuses and more than 6 relays as thats what I currently have and with my EFI now I wont have any relays left over to add more auxiliary lighting or adding any auxiliary circuits down the road.

These use the Metri-pack 280 connectors that you will need to buy the mate for and terminate your wires in with female terminals. They do have weather seals on the connector and terminals.

So with that your wires won't enter the box like you are wanting. I see your point and for looks it annoyed me a bit at first since in one harness you may have to split wires to different connectors. After using it, I prefer the plugs now myself. Makes it easier to add circuits to without having to pull the whole box. I know some users are using the boxes that have standoffs where you snap the wires/terminals directly in the bottom and those are the same terminals the fuses and relays plug into. Similar to the Ford pdb.

Regarding future expansion, these can't really chain together so you are left with multiple boxes or the 32S big one.

Problem I see with that one is that it's a bit too much of a tradeoff for convenience over customization. With that many relays I'd want to be able to cascade some and with the shared hot and ground buss you can't.

Littlefuse makes some interlocking cases for megafuses but not sure about any that work with relays. Will do some looking.

The Ford unit Gary is using may be a good fit for you?

For me I am trying to find a way to use it without doing too much changing. The one below that I keep looking at I could in theory make a plexiglass backer bolt it through existing holes in my plastic fender on the passenger side then have stand offs that I can screw into to attach this box and mount it. Only problem is I dont know if these three fuses on the sides are capable of handling an alternator charging circuit.

My idea was to run all my wires inside and make my attachments including with the charge wire from the alternator, the brass terminals goes through and through so I can bolt the fuse on the top down and on the under side bolt the charge wire to one brass terminal then bolt the other end of the charge wire to the other side that will go to my battery side of the solenoid.

Currently I have 6 relays and 6 fuses in this box that I bought that I havent assembled yet.

Which in my original layout I had two spare relays which would allow me expansion for adding two pairs of auxiliary lights to a roll bar if I decide to make that upgrade. But then I decided to go Holley Sniper EFI and I want to run all my wires to this box as well so with new plans I repurposed the small five pin relay from a choke relay to a fuel pump relay, then the other two relays that were empty are now slated to be for my AC step up and AC cut out relays so I can have my sniper idle up when the AC is turned on and have the AC shut down when I go full throttle. Now my 6 fuse/6 relay box is full and I have no room for future light expansion. Tried to find like a 8 relay but couldnt find anything I liked this 10 relay/15 fuse that I posted first is the first one I like but I am afraid when I go to wash under my hood like I do once a year that I am going to have corrosion and shorts with the circuits in the box. I figure I could take and seal the box up but I would have to make sure I make the wires for my auxiliary circuits since I wont be able to take the box apart again, but then that will force me to make a splice connection which I wanted to avoid solider/splice joints in my auxiliary wiring.

I haven't seen that first one before but like the layout.

Not sure you're exact concern with the 3 fuses but they look like MIDI's so unless you are going really big on your alt, you're good there. I have my 155amp alt running through a midi. As for the unit itself, it would be nice to see a max amp rating but with the direct contact via the bolt I don't see why it would have problems. Depending on the wire gauge you use for that circuit, may have to be careful to avoid flexing or stressing the plastic around the brass.

Shame the Amazon reviews it has aren't great. Depending upon how you seal it up though, the looseness could possibly be taken care of. I also get your avoidance of splices (right there with you) but what about having the currently unused relays/fuses all wired into weatherpack/metripack/etc connectors? Would make swapping accessories later on really easy. Your harnesses wouldn't be quite as clean but if you planned them out well or did one accessory to one connector, it wouldn't be bad.

I know suggesting a plastic bag over it during the yearly wash isn't likely what you're wanting but if it fits the bill for everything else besides that, then maybe?

[Rusty_S85]

I haven't seen that first one before but like the layout.

Not sure you're exact concern with the 3 fuses but they look like MIDI's so unless you are going really big on your alt, you're good there. I have my 155amp alt running through a midi. As for the unit itself, it would be nice to see a max amp rating but with the direct contact via the bolt I don't see why it would have problems. Depending on the wire gauge you use for that circuit, may have to be careful to avoid flexing or stressing the plastic around the brass.

Shame the Amazon reviews it has aren't great. Depending upon how you seal it up though, the looseness could possibly be taken care of. I also get your avoidance of splices (right there with you) but what about having the currently unused relays/fuses all wired into weatherpack/metripack/etc connectors? Would make swapping accessories later on really easy. Your harnesses wouldn't be quite as clean but if you planned them out well or did one accessory to one connector, it wouldn't be bad.

I know suggesting a plastic bag over it during the yearly wash isn't likely what you're wanting but if it fits the bill for everything else besides that, then maybe?

I like the layout as well. Only thing Id be concerned about is the amperage going through the metal connectors could heat up the plastic potentially melting it. The alternator I am looking at is a stock large case 3G alternator but I was thinking of using a smaller fuse as I am maintaining a V belt and its doubtful I could ever blow a fuse as my V belt would slip before I could ever max out the 3G large case.

I thought of that on the connectors. Could use one opening for an inlet for hard wires into the case and use a second opening for an outlet for accessories that way I can keep systems that wont change such as my Fuel Injection, AC wires, and charge wires in one position and others such as my lights, cb, cb amp and any add on features could be gone through with a plug. Only thing I am not too crazy about is running my AC wire from driver side across the engine to passenger side for the box then running it back to driverside to the compressor. Then the more I think about this, I wonder if I should just have connectors at least that would make it easier to move wiring harnesses out of the way in the future for engine removal since I do plan blending my auxiliary circuits in with my OE circuits through split woven looms for a clean look.

I also came across this photo for a company that builds custom fuse/relay boxes and it looks like they just used a simply plastic project box and made their attachments. I could in theory do this as well and then could source some military style through connectors to maintain a sealed enviroment for the fuses and relays only problem is with a screwed on case if I am broken down on the side of the road it would be a pita at night time trying to unscrew the lid.

[Rusty_S85]

I haven't seen that first one before but like the layout.

Not sure you're exact concern with the 3 fuses but they look like MIDI's so unless you are going really big on your alt, you're good there. I have my 155amp alt running through a midi. As for the unit itself, it would be nice to see a max amp rating but with the direct contact via the bolt I don't see why it would have problems. Depending on the wire gauge you use for that circuit, may have to be careful to avoid flexing or stressing the plastic around the brass.

Shame the Amazon reviews it has aren't great. Depending upon how you seal it up though, the looseness could possibly be taken care of. I also get your avoidance of splices (right there with you) but what about having the currently unused relays/fuses all wired into weatherpack/metripack/etc connectors? Would make swapping accessories later on really easy. Your harnesses wouldn't be quite as clean but if you planned them out well or did one accessory to one connector, it wouldn't be bad.

I know suggesting a plastic bag over it during the yearly wash isn't likely what you're wanting but if it fits the bill for everything else besides that, then maybe?

I like the layout as well. Only thing Id be concerned about is the amperage going through the metal connectors could heat up the plastic potentially melting it. The alternator I am looking at is a stock large case 3G alternator but I was thinking of using a smaller fuse as I am maintaining a V belt and its doubtful I could ever blow a fuse as my V belt would slip before I could ever max out the 3G large case.

I thought of that on the connectors. Could use one opening for an inlet for hard wires into the case and use a second opening for an outlet for accessories that way I can keep systems that wont change such as my Fuel Injection, AC wires, and charge wires in one position and others such as my lights, cb, cb amp and any add on features could be gone through with a plug. Only thing I am not too crazy about is running my AC wire from driver side across the engine to passenger side for the box then running it back to driverside to the compressor. Then the more I think about this, I wonder if I should just have connectors at least that would make it easier to move wiring harnesses out of the way in the future for engine removal since I do plan blending my auxiliary circuits in with my OE circuits through split woven looms for a clean look.

I also came across this photo for a company that builds custom fuse/relay boxes and it looks like they just used a simply plastic project box and made their attachments. I could in theory do this as well and then could source some military style through connectors to maintain a sealed enviroment for the fuses and relays only problem is with a screwed on case if I am broken down on the side of the road it would be a pita at night time trying to unscrew the lid.

Im currently looking at theses.

https://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuse-blocks-fuseholders-and-fuse-accessories/powr-blok-modular-power-distribution.aspx

Its a modular set that you can slip together and they sell locking tabs to lock the pieces together. Doesnt appear to be a case for them but does have snap on legs so you can mount. Im thinking about seeing if I can piece a unit together if its not too much get some measurements and then see if I can find a plastic project box with a seal that I can bolt it all in. The project boxes are for electrical projects so they have stand offs in the bottom to screw circuit boards and such into. Maybe I can get one that fits fairly close that I can screw down then all I would have to do is make a filler plate to fit around the gaps to clean it all up.

[kramttocs]

Im currently looking at theses.

https://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuse-blocks-fuseholders-and-fuse-accessories/powr-blok-modular-power-distribution.aspx

Its a modular set that you can slip together and they sell locking tabs to lock the pieces together. Doesnt appear to be a case for them but does have snap on legs so you can mount. Im thinking about seeing if I can piece a unit together if its not too much get some measurements and then see if I can find a plastic project box with a seal that I can bolt it all in. The project boxes are for electrical projects so they have stand offs in the bottom to screw circuit boards and such into. Maybe I can get one that fits fairly close that I can screw down then all I would have to do is make a filler plate to fit around the gaps to clean it all up.

As long as you have correctly sized wiring and good contact, heat shouldn't be an issue.

The more wiring I do on my truck the more I like the connector approach. Contemplating swapping out the passenger side 000 ssvec box with an 004 like on the driver side and really nice to know it's just a matter of pulling the connectors and snapping them back in. Same with something like that custom made box you showed above.

Those powr-bloks are a neat idea. The flex series is the one I had looked at but it's not as compact or well.. flexible.

Looks like 80A is the largest premade fuse option although I wonder if you could make something work with the 2/4 stud assembly module to handle midis

If I am reading it correctly for 03540551Z (2-POSITION 280 MICRO RELAY + 2 POSITION MINI® STYLE FUSE) you get 40 of them for $11.21. Doesn't seem like a terrible price but you'll just end up with a bunch of extras.

[Rusty_S85]

As long as you have correctly sized wiring and good contact, heat shouldn't be an issue.

The more wiring I do on my truck the more I like the connector approach. Contemplating swapping out the passenger side 000 ssvec box with an 004 like on the driver side and really nice to know it's just a matter of pulling the connectors and snapping them back in. Same with something like that custom made box you showed above.

Those powr-bloks are a neat idea. The flex series is the one I had looked at but it's not as compact or well.. flexible.

Looks like 80A is the largest premade fuse option although I wonder if you could make something work with the 2/4 stud assembly module to handle midis

If I am reading it correctly for 03540551Z (2-POSITION 280 MICRO RELAY + 2 POSITION MINI® STYLE FUSE) you get 40 of them for $11.21. Doesn't seem like a terrible price but you'll just end up with a bunch of extras.

Of course, wire would be sized as close to what it should be as possible. Some terminals wont be able to accept the wire size that is needed.

I settled on the following Powr-Bloks for my setup.

03540503Z : 7 terminal ATO Fuse module x1

03540536Z : 2 position ISO Mini Relay Module x4

03540512Z : Power Tap module - 1/4-20 thread unsure about

03540521Z : Storage - Body unsure about

03540514Z : Mounting Module x4

03540517Z : Mounting Standoffs - 1 1/4" x4

03540538Z : 4 stud Assembly Module x1

What I am looking at would be a 6" x 6" square foot print or I could rearrange into a 4 1/2" x 9". I could also shrink it down by not using the mounting modules and get it down to 4 1/2" x 7 1/2"

My idea was the 4 stud assembly module would have one terminal connected straight to the battery positive the other straight to the battery negative. That way all ground legs of the trigger circuits of the relays would be attached on the under side to the negative stud. The positive stud would bring power into the underside which will allow me to cut a notch and make it easier to remove the box vs having to pull the wire out of the loom and out of the case. I would have a double space open if I didnt use the 4 stud assembly module, but with it I have one spot open next to it and I could install the 03540549Z 2 terminal Maxi Fuse module. If I do this then I could run the power wire on the under side from the positive 4 stud module one maxi fuse then the other end to the bussed fuse strip. The other maxi I could throw in a 100w Maxi fuse and hook my 3G alternator charge wire to that and then bring it out to the box to the battery side of the solenoid. Then I could relocate the old charge wire to the same terminal after the fuse for protection. Or I could run it through the maxi fuse to the positive stud inside the box and then run the oe alternator charge wire to that terminal as well, wouldnt have to really run another wire as that terminal would be hooked directly to the battery in the first place.

But my problem is the boxes, I would need interior dimensions to be 6" x 6" and closest I was able to find was a 1554SGY and 1590ZGRP161 that are both in 6.3" x 6.3" dimensions on the outside. The other size the one I am leaning towards is the 1555WAGY that is 7.1" x 7.1" square. But in the end I am leaning back towards the one I posted above that isnt water proof nor dust proof. At least with that one it looks a bit more legit than what mine would which is simply a square plastic box with a lid that screws down with 4 screws.

[kramttocs]

Of course, wire would be sized as close to what it should be as possible. Some terminals wont be able to accept the wire size that is needed.

I settled on the following Powr-Bloks for my setup.

03540503Z : 7 terminal ATO Fuse module x1

03540536Z : 2 position ISO Mini Relay Module x4

03540512Z : Power Tap module - 1/4-20 thread unsure about

03540521Z : Storage - Body unsure about

03540514Z : Mounting Module x4

03540517Z : Mounting Standoffs - 1 1/4" x4

03540538Z : 4 stud Assembly Module x1

What I am looking at would be a 6" x 6" square foot print or I could rearrange into a 4 1/2" x 9". I could also shrink it down by not using the mounting modules and get it down to 4 1/2" x 7 1/2"

My idea was the 4 stud assembly module would have one terminal connected straight to the battery positive the other straight to the battery negative. That way all ground legs of the trigger circuits of the relays would be attached on the under side to the negative stud. The positive stud would bring power into the underside which will allow me to cut a notch and make it easier to remove the box vs having to pull the wire out of the loom and out of the case. I would have a double space open if I didnt use the 4 stud assembly module, but with it I have one spot open next to it and I could install the 03540549Z 2 terminal Maxi Fuse module. If I do this then I could run the power wire on the under side from the positive 4 stud module one maxi fuse then the other end to the bussed fuse strip. The other maxi I could throw in a 100w Maxi fuse and hook my 3G alternator charge wire to that and then bring it out to the box to the battery side of the solenoid. Then I could relocate the old charge wire to the same terminal after the fuse for protection. Or I could run it through the maxi fuse to the positive stud inside the box and then run the oe alternator charge wire to that terminal as well, wouldnt have to really run another wire as that terminal would be hooked directly to the battery in the first place.

But my problem is the boxes, I would need interior dimensions to be 6" x 6" and closest I was able to find was a 1554SGY and 1590ZGRP161 that are both in 6.3" x 6.3" dimensions on the outside. The other size the one I am leaning towards is the 1555WAGY that is 7.1" x 7.1" square. But in the end I am leaning back towards the one I posted above that isnt water proof nor dust proof. At least with that one it looks a bit more legit than what mine would which is simply a square plastic box with a lid that screws down with 4 screws.

I know you said you're leaning towards the 10 relay but just wanted to point out that the powr-blok maxi fuse module is only rated for 80A, unfortunately.

 

[Rusty_S85]

I know you said you're leaning towards the 10 relay but just wanted to point out that the powr-blok maxi fuse module is only rated for 80A, unfortunately.

Well thats fine I am not sure I would want the high current flowing through the box anyways considering that it might introduce RFI into my sniper wiring which would be in the box.

For me I could free up one relay in the box I currently have that has 6 relays by reducing my headlight relays from 2 to 1 and just use the center pin for my low beams and have my high beam circuit trigger the relay for high beam and I can jumper the high beam trigger to my driving light relay. This would have me using 5 relays out of 6 but if I want to add four more lights on a roll bar in the bed of my truck I would need two relays for them as well as I doubt I could get all four lights to run off one relay when the total would be 400 watts of light. At battery voltage of 12.8V, 400 watts would be 31A of current which would be too much for a standard mini relay rated at 30A. With engine running at 14.3V the current would drop to 28A which still would be border line for a 30A relay so I would need two relays for pairs of lights.

I could get LED but the KC Daylighters with LED upgrades just dont seem to put out as much light as a Hallogen, reviews claims they do but they are narrower than other LED lights and I suspect narrower than the Hallogen bulbs as well. Plus my goal if I do add a roll bar and extra lights is two flood lights and two spot lights. KC doesnt have a Daylighter with LED in anything but a spotlight from what I saw.