BullnoseLuvr Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Some forums and most of the facebook pages, rely on "I think" rather than documentation. Yesterday I waded into a raging debate on a FB page re which Bullnose trucks had FORD on the hood. Guys were going back and forth with "my truck has FORD on the hood" or "mine doesn't" as if that proves anything. Hoods are changed all the time, and letters are easy to add. So I gave them a link to our page on literature and told them that it was 1980 & 81 and if they didn't believe it to go look at the brochures. And yet the debate raged on. Later on another page there was a debate about what thermostat to use in a 351M. Since the M-Block uses a very unusual thermostat, without which the cooling system won't work properly, I posted a link to our description thereof. But instead of reading that, which includes pictures and factory documentation, the OP asked "what is different about that thermostat?" Can these people not read? Or are they just too lazy to do so? Interesting. This is from SKF in the document linked at the bottom. This must be where Haynes got it. FTJ Tighten adjusting nut to 50 ft-lbs/68 Nm while rotating hub. Back off 45°. Align lock washer hole with pin on adjusting nut. Tighten locknut to 150 ft-lbs/203 Nm. Endplay should be .001-.006" http://estore.nordiques.com/uploads/nordiques/files/09-torquesskf.pdf Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Interesting. This is from SKF in the document linked at the bottom. This must be where Haynes got it. FTJ Tighten adjusting nut to 50 ft-lbs/68 Nm while rotating hub. Back off 45°. Align lock washer hole with pin on adjusting nut. Tighten locknut to 150 ft-lbs/203 Nm. Endplay should be .001-.006" http://estore.nordiques.com/uploads/nordiques/files/09-torquesskf.pdf Mark Those are pretty much the instructions that came with the new nut set that I got last winter when I changed my failed self locking hubs to Warn hubs. As I had it that far apart, I went a head and put in new bearings, races and seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BullnoseLuvr Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Those are pretty much the instructions that came with the new nut set that I got last winter when I changed my failed self locking hubs to Warn hubs. As I had it that far apart, I went a head and put in new bearings, races and seals. But, but... The FMS says 50, not 150ft-lbs. Which did you do? I'm at 150 right now. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Those are pretty much the instructions that came with the new nut set that I got last winter when I changed my failed self locking hubs to Warn hubs. As I had it that far apart, I went a head and put in new bearings, races and seals. But, but... The FMS says 50, not 150ft-lbs. Which did you do? I'm at 150 right now. Mark The outter nut is at 150 ft/lbs and has been running that way ever sense. I was even on an elk scouting trip and returned on 2 Oct and have had no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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