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85lebaront2

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Man, that is COMPLEX! I can't even get my head around what you said, much less what the problem is. But it appears that you have a plan, so here's hoping it works. :nabble_smiley_good:

The problem with the left turn indicator light was a bad factory splice where three wires and the dash feed were all spliced, the dash feed was broken inside the taped area. It is now fixed.

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Yippee! Another layer down on the onion. :nabble_smiley_good:

I am beginning to think the electrical system has the ghost of Joe Lucas in it. I have a key on, low current leak to the brake light circuit, I thought it might be the speed control circuit as, unlike Ford, it has a dedicated set of contacts in the brake light switch. Pulling the fuse made no difference. I say low current because it is showing 8.08 volts at the stop and turn light feeds and the third brake light. This is with LEDs in all 5 locations. Changing one of the tail light bulbs back to an incandescent bulb kills the other 4 lights.

It is definitely coming through the brake light circuit, unplugging the switch kills it.

In any event here are some more pictures:

DSCN4245.thumb.jpg.b459e7598dd58e04dcaf0e563fa680ef.jpg

DSCN4248.thumb.jpg.cc8d059f93b0e31012d68fdcb0946a75.jpg

Gary, the opening under the radio is where I need to come up with a panel for a power point, hazard flasher switch, panel dimmer and courtesy light switch and the rear window defroster switch.

 

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I am beginning to think the electrical system has the ghost of Joe Lucas in it. I have a key on, low current leak to the brake light circuit, I thought it might be the speed control circuit as, unlike Ford, it has a dedicated set of contacts in the brake light switch. Pulling the fuse made no difference. I say low current because it is showing 8.08 volts at the stop and turn light feeds and the third brake light. This is with LEDs in all 5 locations. Changing one of the tail light bulbs back to an incandescent bulb kills the other 4 lights.

It is definitely coming through the brake light circuit, unplugging the switch kills it.

In any event here are some more pictures:

Gary, the opening under the radio is where I need to come up with a panel for a power point, hazard flasher switch, panel dimmer and courtesy light switch and the rear window defroster switch.

Bill...........DO you have an electric trailer brake controller in that car? The reason I ask is that when I build custom truck beds and put all LED lights in them. I will have to change out the older brake controller to a new one because the older ones create a feed back loop and keep the LEDs on ane have around a 6 or 7 volt draw. The first time it took me several days to figure it out.

If you dont have one, sorry I wasted your time?

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Bill...........DO you have an electric trailer brake controller in that car? The reason I ask is that when I build custom truck beds and put all LED lights in them. I will have to change out the older brake controller to a new one because the older ones create a feed back loop and keep the LEDs on ane have around a 6 or 7 volt draw. The first time it took me several days to figure it out.

If you dont have one, sorry I wasted your time?

From my perspective that’s not wasted time, very good info for the future! Thanks.

 

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Bill...........DO you have an electric trailer brake controller in that car? The reason I ask is that when I build custom truck beds and put all LED lights in them. I will have to change out the older brake controller to a new one because the older ones create a feed back loop and keep the LEDs on ane have around a 6 or 7 volt draw. The first time it took me several days to figure it out.

If you dont have one, sorry I wasted your time?

Yes, my experience is that brake controllers cause problems with LED's. But in my case it was a new brake controller.

Bill - What kind of panel do you have in mind? What all functions do you need on it? Just "power point, hazard flasher switch, panel dimmer and courtesy light switch and the rear window defroster switch"?

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Bill...........DO you have an electric trailer brake controller in that car? The reason I ask is that when I build custom truck beds and put all LED lights in them. I will have to change out the older brake controller to a new one because the older ones create a feed back loop and keep the LEDs on ane have around a 6 or 7 volt draw. The first time it took me several days to figure it out.

If you dont have one, sorry I wasted your time?

No brake controller, this one isn't going to be towing anything it is sort of a street rod. a 200 hp 135 ci 4 cyl turbocharged engine and automatic (5 speeds in the K convertibles were very rare due to the reinforcement structure).

FWIW, unplugging the brake switch killed the lights, but removing the speed control fuse didn't. I swear Joe Lucas is hiding in the wiring somewhere.

I'm just hoping I won't need to replace this:

Rare_Lucas_part.jpg.1b11eb963f82e4df682a4dce62136629.jpg

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Yes, my experience is that brake controllers cause problems with LED's. But in my case it was a new brake controller.

Bill - What kind of panel do you have in mind? What all functions do you need on it? Just "power point, hazard flasher switch, panel dimmer and courtesy light switch and the rear window defroster switch"?

Yes, just those 4 items (dimmer and courtesy light control is one unit). I will get you pictures and measurements along with the depth to the inner structure (there was a cupholder there originally).

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Yes, just those 4 items (dimmer and courtesy light control is one unit). I will get you pictures and measurements along with the depth to the inner structure (there was a cupholder there originally).

Bill - What do you mean by "power point"? I think I'm planning on installing a USB charger in place of the cigar lighter, and have my eye on this one from Blue Seas. There are cheaper ones, but the vast majority of them have a volt meter included, and since our cigar lighters are hot all the time I don't want the current draw of one with a volt meter.

There are certainly less expensive units on the market. But some of them raise serious doubts, like this Ginsco Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Charger, which has some dubious claims or, at best, poor translations in its advert.

First, iPhones certainly DO allow fast charging. Second, "under the premise of firm fixation"? And "blue LED"? That is green on my screen. "Let this USB charger be with you on the road safety"? "The usb socket will be controlled by the car power manager, stop charge automatically when your device is fully charged"?

I think I'll pay for a Blue Seas one as at least their descriptions make sense. And, it appears they'll be around as they show to have been winning awards since 2005.

Anyway, what are your thoughts?

Chinese_USB_Charger.thumb.jpg.faee6426a1111be4505653b660147fde.jpg

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