85lebaront2 Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 Lots of good fabrication going on there. But I'm a little lost on the issue with the headlights. Why is the original header panel not there? What am I missing? Gary, the header panel is there, but there was a stamped shallow channel that went across from under the high beam area on each side. It was attached to the radiator support where the center upright is. The fan assembly sort of gets in the way. It would probably be OK as the grille shell is cast metal, but since the bottom of that piece (header panel and grille) is open as it sits right above the bumper I didn't want to leave it potentially unsupported (I'm not a big fan of vibrating headlights). At least it's not a 1985, the grille on those was hinged at the top and spring loaded at the bottom. so there was a lot more in there and no easy way to get around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Gary, the header panel is there, but there was a stamped shallow channel that went across from under the high beam area on each side. It was attached to the radiator support where the center upright is. The fan assembly sort of gets in the way. It would probably be OK as the grille shell is cast metal, but since the bottom of that piece (header panel and grille) is open as it sits right above the bumper I didn't want to leave it potentially unsupported (I'm not a big fan of vibrating headlights). At least it's not a 1985, the grille on those was hinged at the top and spring loaded at the bottom. so there was a lot more in there and no easy way to get around it. Oh, ok. I don't think there is such a thing as "too solid", so I like your approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 Oh, ok. I don't think there is such a thing as "too solid", so I like your approach. Ok, time for some more updates. I finished up the transaxle cooler brackets and painted them, got my hoses run and the quick connects installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Ok, time for some more updates. I finished up the transaxle cooler brackets and painted them, got my hoses run and the quick connects installed. After that was done it was wiring harness time, and a relocation of the 1996 Stratus PDC inboard and down slightly to make it easier to open. This did open another minor can of worms, the Stratus has it mounted longitudinally with the positive battery stud toward the back (Stratus and Cirrus have the battery under the inner fender). I had originally divided the harness into two main portions, one going inside and the other passing under the box to the PCM, with it moved the PCM section became too short to pass under the mount and box and still reach. That will need some work, I have it connected, but don't like the routing, sort of like GM would do, twisted and stuffed. I will work on that portion when I strip the inside steering and brake pedal brackets off to replace the inside cowl insulation. I had gotten some new window seals, and finally was able to see how at least one fit, the left side outer. I would put the pictures on, but due to the length of the doors and trying to get a good view it took 9 pictures, 3 before along the length, 3 after and two close-ups of the window guide pads plus an outer overall of most of the door. Finished up my horns (they came off a PT Cruiser as finding good horns in my collection wasn't possible) these are two wires, and are grounded through the harness rather than the mount. Since it is in the same area I ran the ground and control wire for the high speed fan pressure switch. I put the front bumper cover on to make sure everything cleared. I still have a low temperature cutout switch for the A/C compressor to mount and connect on the left side. That's really good progress, Bill. How many wires are going to have to be extended? Will you get the same color wire, or extend in the middle so the ends have the right colors? Two-wire horns? I'd not heard of that, but I guess it is really needed on vehicles with composite panels. But, why on a PT Cruiser? On the hoses coming through the radiator support, is there a need for protection for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 That's really good progress, Bill. How many wires are going to have to be extended? Will you get the same color wire, or extend in the middle so the ends have the right colors? Two-wire horns? I'd not heard of that, but I guess it is really needed on vehicles with composite panels. But, why on a PT Cruiser? On the hoses coming through the radiator support, is there a need for protection for them? Chrysler went to two wire horns in the early 90s I guess so they could put them where ever they sounded best. It may also have been so they just use the horn switch as a ground. On the hoses they are pretty centered in the opening and are also fairly close to the cooler nipples. The opening is also a factory punched hole so the edges are rolled back toward the engine side. Wire, I have a large pile of salvaged wire harness parts, if I can't exact match it, I will add the section in the middle. I like to stagger my splices anyway so the bundle doesn't get too bulky. The number to be extended is TBD, some will not need to be done as I found I had some extra lengths on the injector, power, O2, signal ground, knock sensor and ACT leads. The ones that may are the MAP sensor, BARO read solenoid, purge solenoid and waste gate solenoid. These all mount in the area in front of the right strut tower. The signal ground on the MAP sensor will be the easy one as I have the surplus length on the other sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 13, 2018 Author Share Posted November 13, 2018 Chrysler went to two wire horns in the early 90s I guess so they could put them where ever they sounded best. It may also have been so they just use the horn switch as a ground. On the hoses they are pretty centered in the opening and are also fairly close to the cooler nipples. The opening is also a factory punched hole so the edges are rolled back toward the engine side. Wire, I have a large pile of salvaged wire harness parts, if I can't exact match it, I will add the section in the middle. I like to stagger my splices anyway so the bundle doesn't get too bulky. The number to be extended is TBD, some will not need to be done as I found I had some extra lengths on the injector, power, O2, signal ground, knock sensor and ACT leads. The ones that may are the MAP sensor, BARO read solenoid, purge solenoid and waste gate solenoid. These all mount in the area in front of the right strut tower. The signal ground on the MAP sensor will be the easy one as I have the surplus length on the other sensors. Well, found out none of the wires need extending, once I positioned everything I have about 8 or 9 that actually need shortening. The molding clip samples that were forwarded to Ray Cecil are coming to fruition. He sent me the first set of files and the .stl is what my printer uses. After scaling the part (used the X axis measurement as that is the easiest to determine) I ran a trial at medium setting. it looked great so I did another at the fine setting (more layers for a smoother finish) the results are great! Black one is original, the other two are the printed ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 Well, found out none of the wires need extending, once I positioned everything I have about 8 or 9 that actually need shortening. The molding clip samples that were forwarded to Ray Cecil are coming to fruition. He sent me the first set of files and the .stl is what my printer uses. After scaling the part (used the X axis measurement as that is the easiest to determine) I ran a trial at medium setting. it looked great so I did another at the fine setting (more layers for a smoother finish) the results are great! Black one is original, the other two are the printed ones. Good deal on the wires. But that's EXCELLENT NEWS on the clips! Do they appear to be strong enough? What material did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 14, 2018 Author Share Posted November 14, 2018 Good deal on the wires. But that's EXCELLENT NEWS on the clips! Do they appear to be strong enough? What material did you use? They appear to be ok, the material is PLA, Polylactyic Acid and seems strong enough, The ones I will be concerned about are the big ones with the spring pieces on the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 They appear to be ok, the material is PLA, Polylactyic Acid and seems strong enough, The ones I will be concerned about are the big ones with the spring pieces on the top. Figured I ought to post this one, finally got a good used SBEC in hand and was able to actually fire the engine for the first time in nearly 10 years (1985 was totaled in Feb 2009). Ran pretty well, still have to finish sorting vacuum lines and then I can fill the cooling system and run it long enough to get it warmed up all the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 Figured I ought to post this one, finally got a good used SBEC in hand and was able to actually fire the engine for the first time in nearly 10 years (1985 was totaled in Feb 2009). Ran pretty well, still have to finish sorting vacuum lines and then I can fill the cooling system and run it long enough to get it warmed up all the way. Yippee!!!! That has to be a wonderful feeling. By the way, did the package arrive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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