85lebaront2 Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 Sounds like you have a plan, Stan, but I'm not sure I follow it. However, I'll look forward to the pics that explain it as I'm sure it'll work out. I have to lock the gear to the hub and the easiest way is to use a strong epoxy to hold it, then drill and tap the 5 pulley attaching bolt holes. The face of the gear and hub assembly is a little over 1/4" further out from the block face and crank end than the factory dimension. Since I will not be using the original belt system, but a serpentine belt driving water pump, AC compressor, PS pump and alternator it will (hopefully) be more compact on the drive end than the original 5 rib polygroove and 2 V belts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 I have to lock the gear to the hub and the easiest way is to use a strong epoxy to hold it, then drill and tap the 5 pulley attaching bolt holes. The face of the gear and hub assembly is a little over 1/4" further out from the block face and crank end than the factory dimension. Since I will not be using the original belt system, but a serpentine belt driving water pump, AC compressor, PS pump and alternator it will (hopefully) be more compact on the drive end than the original 5 rib polygroove and 2 V belts. I think I understand that. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 12, 2023 Author Share Posted March 12, 2023 I think I understand that. Thanks! Update on the crank gear, here is the nearly finished item, I still have to get all 5 bolt holes drilled and tapped for M8X1.25 bolts and determine the exact thickness needed for the spacer on the end of the crank. This will get the timing belt alignment correct. It actually will sit in place correctly if I leave the big spacer behind the gear, but I would like to have a solid piece inside the hub so if I decide to do away with part or all of the spacer it won't matter. I had a member on TurboDodge.com send me some pictures of his 2.5L Hybrid, in particular, his solution to the timing belt and accessory drives. He is using the same intake cam drive for the distributor and came up with a solution on the oil pump drive. He turned down the OD of one of the older gears until the ID of one of the 2.0/2.4L gears would just fit over it. He then cut the center out of the 2.0/2.4L gear so he could attach the completed piece to his intermediate shaft. I will do something similar, but want to see if once I get the two gears to go together, I can possibly epoxy them at the outer portion and use the existing hub for the 2.2/2.5L gears and possibly a spacer for the difference in ID of the two gears and a pin for the positive drive from the 2.0/2.4L gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 Update on the crank gear, here is the nearly finished item, I still have to get all 5 bolt holes drilled and tapped for M8X1.25 bolts and determine the exact thickness needed for the spacer on the end of the crank. This will get the timing belt alignment correct. It actually will sit in place correctly if I leave the big spacer behind the gear, but I would like to have a solid piece inside the hub so if I decide to do away with part or all of the spacer it won't matter. I had a member on TurboDodge.com send me some pictures of his 2.5L Hybrid, in particular, his solution to the timing belt and accessory drives. He is using the same intake cam drive for the distributor and came up with a solution on the oil pump drive. He turned down the OD of one of the older gears until the ID of one of the 2.0/2.4L gears would just fit over it. He then cut the center out of the 2.0/2.4L gear so he could attach the completed piece to his intermediate shaft. I will do something similar, but want to see if once I get the two gears to go together, I can possibly epoxy them at the outer portion and use the existing hub for the 2.2/2.5L gears and possibly a spacer for the difference in ID of the two gears and a pin for the positive drive from the 2.0/2.4L gear. Progress! But how did the other guy cut the center out of the 2.0/2.4L gear? I can see doing that on the mill with a boring head. It would be easy after getting centered, which would be the hard part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 12, 2023 Author Share Posted March 12, 2023 Progress! But how did the other guy cut the center out of the 2.0/2.4L gear? I can see doing that on the mill with a boring head. It would be easy after getting centered, which would be the hard part. Gary, it looks like he used a hole saw. Part behind is a 40 tooth gear for a round tooth belt, front is a 42 tooth cam gear for a round tooth belt. The 40 tooth is the cam and intermediate shaft gear for a 2.2/2.5L common block engine, 42 tooth is a cam gear for a 2.0/2.4L engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Gary, it looks like he used a hole saw. Part behind is a 40 tooth gear for a round tooth belt, front is a 42 tooth cam gear for a round tooth belt. The 40 tooth is the cam and intermediate shaft gear for a 2.2/2.5L common block engine, 42 tooth is a cam gear for a 2.0/2.4L engine. It doesn't look like the hole is centered, but I guess it really doesn't matter if it is just to allow the bolt to pass through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 It doesn't look like the hole is centered, but I guess it really doesn't matter if it is just to allow the bolt to pass through? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg That was my thought, his picture on making it shows a bit better how it was done: Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 That was my thought, his picture on making it shows a bit better how it was done: That's ingenious. But I think I'd want the center cut a bit more accurately. In fact, I think I'd take all of the center out up to the flange, which would be good for aligning it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 15, 2023 Author Share Posted March 15, 2023 That's ingenious. But I think I'd want the center cut a bit more accurately. In fact, I think I'd take all of the center out up to the flange, which would be good for aligning it. Today I was able to get the intermediate shaft gear modified. I turned down the OD of an old 1986 square tooth gear and faced off a bit where it would press in to the deep side of a 2.0/2.4L cam gear. I used an extra washer as a spacer between the two hubs. Washer is epoxied to the hub of the 2.0/2.4L gear, then the two gears were epoxied together. I currently have a cut off stub of the 1986 TBI cam (rusted badly enough to be scrap) used with a bolt to hold the assembly together until it sets completely. I am going to see if the Chrysler dealer I will pass tomorrow has the dowel for the 2.0/2.4L cams so I can see about drilling the washer in-line with the keyway so the entire assembly will be solidly joined together once the bolts are in and torqued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 15, 2023 Share Posted March 15, 2023 Today I was able to get the intermediate shaft gear modified. I turned down the OD of an old 1986 square tooth gear and faced off a bit where it would press in to the deep side of a 2.0/2.4L cam gear. I used an extra washer as a spacer between the two hubs. Washer is epoxied to the hub of the 2.0/2.4L gear, then the two gears were epoxied together. I currently have a cut off stub of the 1986 TBI cam (rusted badly enough to be scrap) used with a bolt to hold the assembly together until it sets completely. I am going to see if the Chrysler dealer I will pass tomorrow has the dowel for the 2.0/2.4L cams so I can see about drilling the washer in-line with the keyway so the entire assembly will be solidly joined together once the bolts are in and torqued. That makes sense, Bill. And the pin prevents movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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